Why you should follow the locals and discover the laid-back charm of the Athens Riviera this summer

Independent

2 days ago

After more than 15 years writing about Greece, I've learned that some of the best experiences happen when you veer away from the obvious choices. While most travellers landing in Athens rush toward the islands, I turn my attention to the Athens Riviera – a shimmering stretch of coastline just south of the city. Here, sandy beaches, lazy taverna lunches and sunsets to rival Santorini unfold with the ease of staying on the mainland.
For decades, Athenians have sought seaside respite here. Now the Riviera is enjoying a renaissance, drawing international visitors who've discovered they can enjoy a stylish, culture-rich escape – no ferry required.
Vouliagmeni quickly emerges as the Riviera's crown jewel. Its palm-lined boulevards and waterfront cafés emit a casual elegance reminiscent of France 's Côte d'Azur, only with a distinctly Greek flair. Hours disappear, relaxing over coffee and seaside strolls, highlighting a life lived outdoors.
My personal favourite lies at the foot of limestone cliffs: Lake Vouliagmeni offers one of the Riviera's most surprising swimming spots. Warmed to 25C by underground springs, the mineral-rich mix of salt and freshwater creates a natural spa with tiny garra rufa 'medicine' fish nibbling at your toes, leaving you lighter, drawing away any tension.
Luxury is also threaded through the Riviera's fabric. At Astir Beach, a favourite among stylish Athenians, sprawl on immaculate loungers with drinks and snacks delivered directly to your cabana. Behind the beach lies something magical – the 6th-century Temple of Apollo Zoster, accidentally unearthed by orphaned children in 1924. It's a reminder that even beach days here brush up against Greece's ancient soul.
Further along the coast, the landscape grows more elemental. Cape Sounio reveals itself dramatically with the great marble columns of the Temple of Poseidon catching the last light of the day, perched high on the cliff. It's no wonder this is a romantic pilgrimage for many. You can easily imagine sailors of old offering prayers for safe passage at this wind-swept headland.
What makes the Athens Riviera so memorable is how seamlessly mythological grandeur blends with everyday Greek life; sipping freddo espresso at Flisvos Marina, watching fishing boats bob beside superyachts, or a spontaneous dip at Kavouri Beach, where hardy locals swim year-round.
Culture is close, too. Just inland lies the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, a modern marvel of glass and greenery that houses both the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera. Its park, with fountains and sculpture-dotted paths, offers a refreshing contrast to the coast.
Where to eat
Dining here is a highlight. In Vouliagmeni and nearby Glyfada, seafood tavernas deliver platters of freshly-caught fish. For something more polished, Barbarossa Paros is part of the sleek new 91 Athens Riviera complex with an extensive menu that offers locally sourced ingredients. Enjoy sushi on select evenings and sip crisp Malagousia wine alongside the beach.
For Michelin-starred dining, Varoulko Seaside in Piraeus is unmissable. Chef Lefteris Lazarou reimagines seafood with flair. Highly recommended is the shrimp pastitsio.
For old-school taverna charm, dine with the locals at Dourbeis, also in Piraeus. Open since 1932, the fish soup, whole sea bream and seafood linguine are classics for good reason.
Where to stay
Accommodation here pairs elegance with warmth. The Margi in Vouliagmeni (doubles from €540/£460) is an intimate boutique hotel surrounded by pine forest and a 20-minute walk to Lake Vouliagmeni. With only 89 rooms, it combines refined elegance with a warm Greek welcome and farm-to-table ethos thanks to its own organic farm. Breakfasts of homemade yoghurt, fresh fruit, and local honey take centre stage.
For next-level luxury, 91 Athens Riviera in Voula (cabana from €486/£410) is redefining the Riviera. A chic glamping-meets-beach-club concept from Domes Resorts, the 28 beautifully designed sleeping cabanas – many with private plunge pool – are ideal for couples or families seeking barefoot elegance and privacy.
Wellness offerings include an indoor spa, outdoor hydro pools, and a private tennis club. Dining at its Barbarossa restaurant brings Cycladic flair to the mainland, complete with cocktails and beachside seating. If the Athens Riviera is about balancing city access with coastal calm, 91 captures this effortlessly.
Heading back to the city reminds me that the soul of Greece isn't found by rushing away to the islands, but by staying close the Greek heartland. Along the glittering Athenian coastline, you'll find the best of the city, season after season. Though increasingly popular, the Riviera retains its charm. Each time I return, I feel as though I've discovered a new charm.
How to get there
British Airways (prices starting from £260 return) and Aegean Airlines (prices starting from €199/£169) fly direct from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Athens, while and easyJet offers regional UK flights, and Jet2 flies from Birmingham. From Athens airport, it's a 30-45 minute taxi to the Riviera (approx. €40-€50).