Creama kasa and a pocketful of butter: Wisconsin grilled cheese champs talk perfecting their craft

Yahoo

16-04-2025

For 15 years, the Wisconsin Grilled Cheese Championship in Iowa County, nestled in the beautiful driftless area of southwest Wisconsin, has drawn competitors from across the state and beyond who push the boundaries in achieving grilled, cheesy perfection.
"We have some competitors who have competed multiple years in a row, and they take it very seriously," said Jenna Vondra, executive director of the Dodgeland Chamber of Commerce. "The minute this year's competition is over, they will start planning for next year."
The contest will feature both amateur cooks and professional chefs who will compete in multiple categories, from the classic grilled cheese to creative concoctions featuring Wisconsin cheese and ingredients ranging from donuts to chocolate-covered bacon and more.
The contest was the brainchild of late Dodgeville resident Lorin Toepper, who pushed for an event highlighting the state's dairy industry. While other states hosted grilled cheese contests, Toepper felt Wisconsin had the edge due to its superior cheese quality.
Knowing that a toasty grilled cheese sandwich was the ultimate comfort food, Toepper felt that it was a blank canvas that could be improved upon using a variety of cheeses, breads and a palette of unique ingredients. The one cardinal rule: contestants must use only Wisconsin cheese.
Vondra says the competition is a big deal not only for contestants but also for the thousands of grilled-cheese aficionados filling the Ley Memorial Pavilion, hoping to not only sample some of the state's unique sandwiches but to draw inspiration and tips to take home to their kitchens.
"The crowd is watching very closely, taking mental notes. Once those sandwiches go on display, they scan the list of ingredients beside the entry and probably go home to try it out," Vondra said.
Last year's champions Jason Kierce of Waunakee and Zach Washa of Highland, will go head-to-head in multiple categories at this year's event. Kierce, a former chef, and Washa, a home cook who has moved into the professional class, will delight event-goers with their unique entries.
Kierce has competed in the event for the past three years and has experienced success using high-quality ingredients such as herb-infused compound butters and cheeses like Gouda and Havarti, which offer better meltability.
"I've always been a fan of grilled cheese," Kierce says. "My wife and I would make that part of our date night for many years. I just started making some funky, fun sandwiches."
He attributes his success to knowing what the judges and audience wants.
"I've always done well at competitions because I tried not to do what I think is the coolest thing out there. I used a good cheese product and work with compound butters that add a little bit extra to elevate the sandwich," Kierce said.
Hallmarks of a good sandwich include color, texture, stretch of the cheese and a little salt.
"There's a lot of components that I'm trying to get in with one bite," Kierce says.
In the nine years that Washa has competed, he has picked up a few tricks that have helped him to bring home an impressive haul of hardware.
"I once tried a play on a reuben sandwich using fish and coleslaw on my cheese, and the fish slipped out. So, the most important thing is to chop your ingredients into manageable sizes. I also grate my cheese the night before as it tends to melt a whole heck of a lot better that way than just throwing a slice on." Washa said. "I also keep my butter in my pocket; otherwise, if the butter is too cold, it won't spread and will tear your bread."
Like Kierce, Washa likes to stick with a winning combination. His favorite cheese to use is a smoked creama kasa from Carr Valley.
"It's almost like a smoked provolone that has a good flavor and can adapt to other ingredients without overpowering them," he said.
Washa is also known for pushing the boundaries in the dessert class. One year he used a maple long john donut for his bread component, complimented by a cracked black pepper cheddar.
"I think at times my creativity has been a detriment. I'm doing a lot of things that a lot of the other competition are either not bold enough to do or are afraid to do," Washa laughed. "But then my grilled cheese with chocolate covered bacon was a hit, and now it's the rage everywhere."
When thinking about a grilled cheese sandwich, many tend to focus on the star of the creation: the cheese. Kierce urges home grillers to visit small cheese shops and experiment with varieties that melt well. He often pairs brie, a soft cow's milk cheese, with jam or caramelized onions.
"Just have fun with it," he said.
During the competition, competitors have only 12 minutes to make two sandwiches. Many contestants opt to use mayonnaise on the outside and butter on the inside. Kierce feels that mayonnaise colors the bread too fast for his liking. He prefers compound butters to deliver extra taste and a nice, golden brown finish.
"I think the key is having patience and not going too fast. I could finish the sandwich in five minutes, but I always finish in the last 30 seconds," Kierce said. "It doesn't matter how fast you go on the outside, you have to melt the cheese in the middle."
Washa says choosing the right bread is equally as important as choosing the right cheese.
"Your regular Wonder Bread is not going to have the crunch that a good sourdough or Italian bread will have. The crunch is what really sets a grilled cheese sandwich apart," Washa said.
To achieve that crunch, Washa has used ghee, a clarified butter made by separating the butterfat from the milk solids and water in the butter.
"It has a higher smoke point, so if you're making a sandwich with multiple ingredients inside, you don't want the outside to cook faster than the inside,"Washa said.
Grilled cheese sandwiches can be elevated with a variety of complementary ingredients including tomato slices or jams, avocado, bacon, pesto, jalapenos, apple slices and fig jam.
This year Washa plans to enter a sandwich using multiple cheeses along with barbeque brisket and pickles. Kierce hopes to perfect a dessert entry which he calls "pretty crazy".
"I'm hoping to be able to flambé some ingredients," he said. "It's going to have lots of cool fire."
Last year Washa took top honors in the Professional Classic division while Kierce swept the Professional Classic Plus 1, Classic Plus Extras and Dessert divisions. The Waunakee man also was awarded the Lorin Toepper Best of Show award.
"For some people, attending this contest is one of the highlights of their year. While some take this competition seriously, for the most part it's just a fun event. There are a lot of high fives, lots of encouragement," Kierce said. "It's good, clean wholesome Wisconsin fun that's kind of hard to find nowadays."
Washa says he gets a kick out of admiring the creativity of fellow contestants.
"When I'm not competing, I love going down the line and seeing what some of the young amateur chefs are doing," said Washa, adding that his 17-year-old daughter will be among the competitors. "There's a lot of thought and hard work that goes into making these grilled cheese sandwiches, months of preparation for some of these people."
While many chefs may keep their trade secrets close to the vest, Washa is an open book.
"The competitors hear are a pretty talkative group," he said. "I'm happy to tell people how I make my 'perfect' grilled cheese sandwich. I'm a pretty open about everything.
Over 3,000 people are expected to turn out for the annual Wisconsin Grilled Cheese Championship on Saturday, April 26 to watch amateur and professional chefs from Wisconsin and beyond put their grilled cheese recipes and cooking skills to the test.
Where and when: Doors of the Ley Memorial Pavilion at Harris Park, 600 N. Bennett Road, Dodgeville will open at 10:45 a.m.
Admission: General admission tickets are $5 for ages 16 and up, with those 15 and under being admitted free. VIP tickets are $30 and will allow holders for four samples of competitors grilled cheese sandwiches, beverage ticket and a grilled cheese swag bag. All tickets are available at the door. Food trucks, a beer and wine garden and vendor fair will also be on site.
Spatulas up! The first of 10 heats will begin at 11 a.m. and conclude with the awards ceremony at 4 p.m.
This article originally appeared on Wisconsin State Farmer: Wisconsin Grilled Cheese Championship set for April 26 in Dodgeville