‘I took an unconventional cruise in Asia and tried an unusual local delicacy'
Looking for a cruise holiday with a difference? This unforgettable river journey through Laos will leave you feeling peaceful and relaxed, and give you an insight into another culture, with a friendly crew, welcoming locals and a vibrant landscape.
After a one-night stopover at Avani+ Riverside Bangkok Hotel, our adventure began in Luang Prabang in northern Laos, where Mekong Kingdoms' understated luxury river cruiser Bohème was moored on the banks of the Mekong River.
We were welcomed aboard by manager Asri and her crew of 20, and before setting sail, we took part in a traditional Baci blessing ceremony with local elders, who tied string around our wrists for good luck.
There are only 13 suites on board the Bohème, so there's no danger of overcrowding. Each cabin is spacious and has air conditioning, a Nespresso machine, minibar, fresh fruit and cookies and, most importantly, a wonderful view of the river as we meandered along it.
Tannoy announcements from Asri help you to keep track of time, and detailed itineraries are placed in the cabins to prepare for the next day.
The boat is moored on the river bank at night, ensuring a peaceful rest in your luxurious bed, and time on board between excursions is spent with cooking and cocktail masterclasses, treatments in the spa rooms, or just relaxing and enjoying the passing boats and wildlife.
Meals are served in the spacious dining salon on the top deck, where we enjoyed leisurely breakfasts, buffet lunches and a variety of set menus featuring locally sourced produce.
Canapés were served at cocktail hour, with the mixologists working their magic while we watched the sun set before our beautifully presented four-course dinners, which featured plenty of fresh fish and river weed – which is a firm new favourite.
A smaller, brightly-coloured tender would take us to the shore for our planned excursions along the river each day. First up was the Kuang Si Waterfall national park, with trails through the forest that wind up to swimming holes, an Asiatic black bear rescue centre and waterfall viewing areas.
Our next stop was Laos Buffalo Dairy, a social enterprise that supplies mozzarella to hotels and local restaurants, while also teaching local farmers how to care for their herd. A tour of the farm gave us a chance to milk and brush the buffalo and bottle-feed some boisterous calves, as well as sampling produce – all made on site.
Further upstream, the Pak Ou Caves, tucked into the cliffs overlooking the Mekong, are filled with sacred golden Buddha statues. Our visit coincided with some touring monks in saffron robes, who invited us to join them as they chanted. For a small donation you can add to the colourful shrines with offerings made of palm leaves and bright orange marigold blossoms – something we found to be a very peaceful and moving contemplation.
A visit to the village of Ban Xang Khong gave us hands-on experience of making traditional saa paper from mulberry tree bark. We were handed bark's pulp plus leaves and local flowers to add into it, then we left our creations on screens to dry in the sun to be turned into paper. Here we also took part in an informative tea tasting in the lush green garden – including one brewed from the poo of silkworms and considered a local specialty – and visited the local museum before shopping for local handicrafts and fabrics.
Another highlight was Ban Chan Neua, the pottery village. The ancient kings of Laos chose this village for their pottery-making skills, and they supplied the royal court with pots for making whisky, fermenting fish and holding water. Now the residents invite visitors to throw their own bowls on hand-driven wheels (under much-needed expert guidance).
A small shop allows you to take a souvenir home, or you can pay extra to get your own creation shipped back.
At the end of our cruise we spent a night on land at Avani+ Luang Prabang Hotel, a former French officers quarters dating back to 1914. An outdoor pool and central location make this the perfect base to explore the local night market, climb Mount Phousi or visit the National Museum, which was once Laos' Royal Palace. It was also easy to jump in a tuk-tuk and visit local craft centre Ock Pop Tok (meaning 'East Meets West' in Lao).
Vibrant colours surround you in beautiful grounds and you can take part in classes, enjoy the café on the river bank or just soak up the peaceful atmosphere. The next morning at sunrise we took part in Sai Bat (morning alms giving), where Buddhist monks of all ages walk the streets in silence and receive offerings of food from well-wishers. It was the perfect end to an unforgettable and rich cultural experience that left me with a full heart – and a full camera roll.
Mekong Kingdoms' five-night full-board Mekong cruise on Bohème costs from £2,550 per person based on a twin cabin. This includes excursions, entrance fees, group transfers, tour guides, meals, beverages, internet, use of the vessel's facilities (excluding spa), river pilots and taxes. A stay at Avani+ Riverside Bangkok costs from $130 per night and Avani+ Luang Prabang costs from $220 per night (bed and breakfast).
For more deals on traditional ocean cruise ships, try the likes of MSC Cruises, Fred Olsen Cruises and Princess Cruises.
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