Men, these are your foolproof outfit formulas for spring and summer

Telegraph

11-05-2025

Good news, everyone – spring appears to have sprung into action promptly and with real aplomb, so it's time to dust off the sunglasses and dig out the shorts.
That said, with not much in the way of a transition, you'd be forgiven if the sudden change in season has taken you by surprise; so let's make sure you're ready to make the most of the sun (because, let's face it, it might not be around for long).
If I may, I would like to start glass-half-full, embrace the warmth and get my legs out. I'll be honest, shorts have been somewhat of a nemesis of mine since my teens when puberty decided it would rather I was gangly. I was among the shortest kids in school, and within a matter of months, I hit six foot, with another 3 inches coming on during my time at college and university – all that, without a single pound of extra meat! I'm in my (early) middle-age now, so my weight is a touch more proportionate to my height, but I'm still slim, and my own wife calls me 'Chicken Legs' (or Wednesday legs. As in ' Wednesday gonna break?'), so it's fair to say shorts and I have had a tumultuous relationship.
The silver lining in all this is that you can learn from my (myriad of) mistakes. Last year, the trend was for short shorts, this year, in reaction to that, and with the 90s coming back in a big way, they are longer and wider. My advice is to completely ignore what's in fashion right now and let your pins do the talking.
Cotton jacket, £495 and cotton tee, £80, Private White V.C; Elasticated shorts, £28, M&S Leather trainers, £245, Russell & Bromley
For a long time I avoided shorts altogether, then I tried ¾ lengths (huge mistake), then knee length, but they cut me off just above the calf, which only made me look skinnier. It may sound counter-intuitive, but flashing a bit more flesh and opting for a mid-thigh or slightly above the knee (usually a 9-12 inch inseam) works best because it gives a bit more visual context, and I would suggest, this is a general rule for most, so if in doubt, start here and plus or minus the inches as you feel comfortable.
Just because you have your legs out, doesn't mean you arms have to follow suit. We're not in high summer just yet and you can still feel the chill with too much exposure. I'm actually a big fan of reversing the typical T-shirt and trousers and going for long-sleeve and pair of shorts instead. Seersucker shorts like these from M&S with a plain t-shirt or shirt, an over-shirt or denim jacket, like this chore jacket, will serve you well as a simple, utilitarian, casual look that still ticks a lot of stylish boxes.
Add a pair of sunglasses or a peaked cap, if you want to embrace the casual aesthetic, and throw on a pair of trainers or even the divisive, but also handy, Birkenstock mules (socks are optional, but I recommend a plain pair) and you're styled for spring-time.
Not ready for shorts, just yet? At the risk of sounding lazy, but in the interest of making your wardrobe work for you without over-stuffing it with items you don't need, this whole look would also look brilliant simply by swapping out the shorts with a pair of cotton-blend striatum leg trousers from Mr.P.
Cotton jacket, £495 and cotton tee, £80, Private White V.C; Cotton-blend trouser, £165, Mr Porter; Leather trainers, £245, Russell & Bromley; Acetate sunglasses, £99, Bloobloom
Now we've covered short-gate, when it comes to other, full-length options, may I suggest linen over chino? There is nothing wrong with chinos, they're not just as breathable, and they're the obvious choice, so don't exhibit as much sartorial know-how.
Linen doesn't have to be reserved for holidays, and it doesn't have to look like you're too sweaty to care. I have a great pair of pleated linen-wool-mix trousers from Original Fibres. They hold their shape really well, they iron easily, and they're not in the slightest beachy, lazy or slouchy. Because they're slightly more structured, they lend themselves to layering on your top half without looking off-balance, too.
Suede jacket, £942, Valstar; Wool polo, £80, T.M.Lewin; Linen wool blend trousers, £270, Original Fibres; Leather loafers, £245, Russell & Bromley
If you want to double-down on the linen, M&S deliver once again with their 'Miracle Linen' bomber, or if you fancy some contrast in texture and a little extra warmth, investing in this suede jacket from Valstar would see you through a lot of the year (for many years to come). Pair this look with this light-weight knitted polo from T.M.Lewin, and a pair of suede brogues, like these from Dune, or Russell & Bromley trainers, and you'll have a look that is it not only seasonally-appropriate, but is the right side of both smart and casual so that you could wear it on most occasions, and is the epitome of subtle coolness.
It does feel like whenever the sun even hints at putting its hat on, every style publication out there starts waxing lyrical about the linen suit, but clichés become cliché for a reason, and if you need to put together a smarter look in the sun, this is your answer.
Linen suit, £329, and linen shirt, £75, Hawes & Curtis; Leather derby shoes, £342.50, Jacques Solovière Paris
But that doesn't mean you have to look like everyone else who is taking the same advice. While they'll mostly be in the light blue, cream or that light, earthy linen colour, why not do something a bit different? If you have the complexion to pull it off, pink, like this one from Mr. P, is a charming and unexpected choice, or go tonal throughout with a green suit from Hawes and Curtis and a green and white shirt, avoiding the tie, unless necessary, because it can look heavy, even with light fabrics.
And I know I'm back on the shorts here, but short suits are big this year, and M&S do a really nice navy one. Keep the rest as simple as possible with some classic sunglasses, like these from Bloobloom (also green) and a pair of loafers from a lovely french brand called Jaques Soloviere. Or if you're brave, these buckle loafers will add a delightful touch.
Enjoy the sun!