5 Leadership Lessons from George Johnson's Memoir ‘Afro Sheen'

Forbes

17-04-2025

George E. Johnson's journey reveals a powerful model for values-driven leadership—anchored in cultural insight, resilience, and adaptability—that speaks directly to today's uncertain and divisive business climate.
Black entrepreneurs operate under profound constraints. In the mid-20th century, segregation, redlining, discriminatory lending practices, and exclusion from traditional corporate networks created an economic environment stacked against them. Yet it was in this context of systemic marginalization that George E. Johnson, 97, founded Johnson Products Company (JPC) in 1954, with a mere $250 loan and an unwavering vision: to create high-quality grooming products for the Black community.
JPC's eventual listing on the American Stock Exchange in 1971 made Johnson the first Black American to take a company public—an unprecedented milestone in U.S. business history. His success aligned with the cultural renaissance of the civil rights and Black Power movements, where self-determination, economic empowerment, and pride in Black identity became central tenets of progress. Afro Sheen, JPC's iconic product line, was more than a haircare brand—it was a symbol of cultural affirmation and pride.
Today, leaders are rediscovering the importance of cultural intelligence. Netflix, for example, has made major investments in regional content creation—from Nollywood in Nigeria to Korean dramas—demonstrating how cultural fluency can drive global engagement. Similarly, Patagonia's activism around Indigenous land rights has built deeper credibility with values-driven consumers and cemented the company's brand as mission-led.
Johnson's entrepreneurial path was full of obstacles—chief among them, access to capital. Banks routinely denied loans to Black business owners, as the trailblazer experienced both when he first pitched (and later scaled) his venture. Undeterred, he approached a different lender requesting a vacation loan in the same amount. 'That $250 financed my initial venture,' eventually growing into a $210 million business (today's dollars).
Resilience Amid Systemic Challenges
This blend of optimism and resourcefulness reflects a broader lesson: resilience is not merely about grit—it's about inventiveness under constraint. In an age marked by geopolitical volatility, labor shortages, and economic inequality, modern leaders must build organizations that are agile and values-based.
Consider how Dan Schulman, former CEO of PayPal, championed employee financial wellness, even during times of market pressure. 'Our purpose is the source of our resilience,' he said, pointing to how expanding equity ownership and wage reform created a stronger, more loyal workforce.
Identifying Opportunities and Adapting to Cultural Shifts
Johnson's success rested on his ability to understand and respond to deep cultural currents. Many Black women straighten their naturally curly or kinky hair so mainstream employers will perceive them as professional. During the 1950s and '60s, Johnson launched Ultra Sheen, the first permanent hair-straightening option for women. Before long, the 'Black is Beautiful' movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s encouraged African Americans to reject Eurocentric beauty standards and proudly wear Afros and other natural styles. In response, Johnson developed Afro Sheen, formulated to maintain and enhance the Afro. He later recalled, 'We need to develop a product to address this new need.'
This was not merely product development—it was cultural innovation. Johnson's ability to anticipate the needs of his community allowed JPC to dominate the market.
This responsiveness illustrates Johnson's deep understanding that culture is not static. Great leaders must be ready to evolve with their audience.
Spotify, for example, has pivoted rapidly in recent years—from streaming music to becoming a dominant force in podcasting, including localized, multilingual offerings for expanding global audiences. Similarly, LEGO has reimagined its brand through inclusive product lines, like its 'Everyone is Awesome' set, which speaks to evolving cultural norms and expectations.
Strategic Partnerships and Cultural Alignment: The Power of Soul Train
One of Johnson's most visionary moves was his financial sponsorship of Soul Train, the syndicated television dance show created by Don Cornelius, in 1971. Often called the 'Black American Bandstand,' Soul Train was a cultural institution that celebrated Black music, style, and identity. It reached millions of viewers weekly and provided a national platform for Black expression.
Long before television targeted Black audiences, Johnson saw in Soul Train a perfect opportunity to align his brand with the cultural pulse of the Black community. JPC invested in colorizing the show, became its key sponsor, and purchased airtime nationally. Afro Sheen commercials were featured prominently during episodes. This strategic alignment helped solidify Afro Sheen as the go-to brand for natural haircare. Johnson later reflected, 'What Soul Train had done for JPC made my generosity well worth it. By coming together, we had grown both our businesses.'
This kind of authentic brand alignment remains a critical lesson for modern companies. Today's consumers—especially Gen Z and Millennials—expect brands to reflect their values and cultural identities. Nike's partnership with Colin Kaepernick, though controversial, resonated powerfully with younger audiences and reinforced Nike's brand as a champion of social justice.
Commitment to Community Development
Johnson's leadership philosophy went far beyond profits. He was deeply invested in his employees, the broader Black community, and women of all backgrounds. 'I embraced a different philosophy: 'Live and help live.'' This groundbreaker emphasized hiring, mentoring, and promoting Black talent and women—from the factory floor to the C-suite—when few corporate doors were open. JPC offered profit-sharing, healthcare, tuition-reimbursement, maternity leave and other benefits because Johnson viewed treating employees well as both strategic and morally right.
This model of community investment remains highly relevant today. Companies that focus on equitable opportunity, employee well-being, and talent development see tangible results in retention and performance.
Levi Strauss & Co., for instance, has made racial equity and worker empowerment a core part of its corporate strategy, from supplier diversity programs to financial empowerment training for factory workers. And LinkedIn's 2024 'State of the Global Workforce' report shows that inclusive leaders are now outperforming peers on every major talent metric—from retention to innovation output.
Implications for Today's Leaders
At a time when public trust in business is fragile and societal divisions are deepening, Johnson's story offers more than historical inspiration—it provides strategic guidance. His legacy teaches that:
As organizations debate the future of DEI amidst political headwinds, Johnson's example offers a reminder that commitment to inclusion is not a political liability—it's a growth strategy.
The coming 'great wealth transfer'—expected to move more than $100 trillion to women and younger, more diverse generations—makes this even more urgent. As the Bank of America Institute reports, women will soon control the majority of private wealth in the U.S., with 95% of 'horizontal' spousal wealth transfers going to women and an estimated $47 trillion headed to younger generations. Businesses that cultivate inclusive cultures and products aligned with these demographic realities will be positioned to thrive.
Afro Sheen was never just about hair—it was about dignity, possibility, innovation, and leadership. George Johnson's memoir is about a visionary—a tenacious risktaker who never entertained the thought of failure. Today's executives would do well to study Johnson's model—not as nostalgia, but as a compass for leading with integrity in a world that demands more from business than ever before.
Afro Sheen: How I Revolutionized an Industry with the Golden Rule, from Soul Train to Wall Street by George E. Johnson Sr. is available from Little, Brown and Company.