Getting ahead in Kyotango: A 4-day workation in Kyoto by the sea

Japan Today

05-05-2025

There are few pleasures greater than setting out on the open road, especially when you're doing so with friends, with maps loaded, playlists queued and a coast to explore. Add in an eSIM app that keeps you effortlessly connected the entire time and — suddenly — even remote corners of Japan feel like home.
Our trip began in Sanjo, a bustling area of Kyoto's downtown, where I met up with two travel companions: one, a filmmaker and our self-proclaimed navigator for this trip; the other, our fearless driver visiting from California, who was driving in Japan — 'on the wrong side of the road,' as she noted — for the first time.
The mission? A four-day exploration of the 'Kyoto by the Sea' region, specifically the Kyotango Peninsula, a stretch of coast that promised soft sands, hidden islands and some of the best seafood, and, as we would find out, amazing pizza, in Japan.
Kyotango, or 'Kyoto by the Sea,' is replete with small fishing towns that have not lost any of their charm.
Image: John Amari
Before setting off, I installed the Nomad eSIM app on my Google Pixel smartphone. A simple download via Google Play Store, a couple of taps to set up my profile and choose my plan, and my 5GB Japan plan activated in under five minutes. No physical SIM. No queues at the airport. Just seamless signal, right out of the gate.
From lakeside lounges to island walks
Arriving in Kyotango (we relied on Google Maps to get there), we checked in at Soka Kyoto (Little White Flower), an elegant retreat set beside a flawlessly still Hanare Lake. The rooms feature private onsen baths and generous views of the surrounding countryside and sea, a fine way to recharge after the drive of more than two hours.
Our room at Soka Kyoto hotel, an elegant retreat set beside a flawlessly still Hanare Lake, where we unwinded and even did some remote work.
Image: John Amari
But it was the outdoor lounge (which has an open fireplace) that set the tone. There, we sipped coffee and answered emails, later retreating to the hotel's modern co-working space, and, even later, enjoying welcome drinks back at the outdoor lounge as the sun set. My eSIM plan ensured I didn't need the hotel's Wi-Fi.
The rooms feature private onsen baths and generous views of the surrounding countryside and sea — a fine way to recharge after the drive of more than two hours.
View of the lake from the expansive deck at Hotel Hekisuien, where we were able to work remotely and enjoy a serene setting.
Image: John Amari
The next morning, following a hearty Western-style breakfast, we headed north. Our lunch stop: Café Touei, known for its Heshiko Gozen, a set meal featuring Kyotango's signature cured mackerel. Delicious, but the menu was entirely in Japanese. Here, the eSIM proved invaluable once again: Google Translate, instantly accessible thanks to our mobile data, turned the kanji into legible English, helping us order with extra confidence.
After lunch, a short walk led us to Jo Island, a miniature, pyramid-shaped isle dotted with narrow, winding, tree-lined paths and curious rock formations. Trekking in a land where the signage is sparse and mostly in Japanese only, staying online felt less like a convenience and more like a lifeline.
Hanago Okada is a 75,000-square-meter garden in Amino, Kyotango, showcasing elegant seasonal displays of tulips, wisteria, roses, and many other colorful flowers.
Image: John Amari
Before heading back to the hotel, we drove down to Hanago Okada, a botanical garden, for a half-hour stroll among its myriad flowers, most which were in full bloom, then finished with a golden sunset at Yuhigaura Beach. Day one was safely under our belt, our eSIM-fueled navigation guiding every turn, detour and beachside photo stop.
Serpents, slices, and sup boards
On day two, we drove and checked into Hotel Hekisuien. By now, the eSIM was a quiet companion — doing its job of helping us navigate without too much drama. Checked in, we used it to translate the hotel's illustrated in-room guide, which suggested several nearby sites.
First up: Mount Kabuto. The hike was short but steep, the views of the bay beneath us spectacular. Naturally, we took selfies amid moments of simply staring out at the awe-inspiring vista. Walking down from the summit, our companion and driver pointed out a snake slithering across our path. Cue a hastily taken photo (from a safe distance) and web image search: a harmless Japanese rat snake, according to the results. Crisis averted.
uRashiMa Pizza in Kyotango offers authentic Neapolitan pizza topped with the fresh flavors of "Kyoto by the Sea," drawing pizza lovers from near and far.
Image: John Amari
After lunch at uRashiMa Pizza (Margherita pizza in a remote, bay town? Surprisingly excellent), our driver left on another errand, so we rented bicycles from Kumihama Station and pedaled our way to Kazuranohama Beach. Along the way, we stopped to photograph surfers and collect seashells. Back at Hekisuien, we logged into a co-working session in their lounge. The speed of their Wi-Fi? Solid. The connection? Uninterrupted. I even managed to submit a few client deliverables before dinner.
Cycling through time
Day three was something of a nostalgia trip. After breakfast, we hopped on the hotel shuttle to Kurihama Station, picked up our rental bikes, and headed for Chiffonese, a cozy café specializing in omusubi (rice balls) lunch boxes and yoghurt-based sweets. Translation apps helped us decipher the minimalist menu, while Google Maps ensured we didn't veer too far off course.
Gosho Inaba Honke is home to the Inaba family of Kumihama, wealthy merchants who first prospered through malted rice production during the Edo Period, then established a successful coastal shipping business.
Image: John Amari
The real gem of the day, however, was Gosho Inaba Honke — the home of a local, wealthy merchant family, and now a museum. The rooms are filled with old documents, photographs and instruments of trade: from book ledgers to ancient cash and coins. But without digital translation, much of it would have remained a mystery. Thanks to my eSIM-enabled phone, I could toggle between live text scans and translations. For a brief moment, history felt less distant.
Afterward, we cycled down to Kazuranohama Beach for a final stroll. Quiet, wind-swept, and empty save for the sound of waves, this was coastal Japan at its most poetic. And even here, tucked away in a corner of Kyoto that feels like the edge of the world, our phones had signal.
Farewell with washoku
We enjoyed an exquisite 7-course Kaiseki dinner at Hotel Hekisuien's sister hotel next door, savoring seasonal Japanese delicacies in an elegant setting.
Image: John Amari
On our final morning, we returned to Gosho Inaba Honke — this time for lunch at Ginshou-Tei, its traditional, 215-year-old washoku (Japanese cuisine) restaurant overlooking a zen garden. Again, menus required translation, which our phones handled with ease. After lunch, we caught the hotel shuttle to the station, booked our return tickets on a reserved-seat train, and made our way back to Kyoto.
I spent the two-hour train ride working, checking emails and taking notes. My Pixel was still online, my notes stored in the cloud, and my memories fresh. That's the thing about travelling in a foreign country: the best experiences are immersive, yes, but also supported. Being able to work, navigate, translate and share — all without worrying about signal.
Why Nomad eSIM
There are many eSIM providers out there, but few combine affordability, reliability and ease of use like Nomad. My 5GB plan lasted the entire trip (with some to spare), installation was foolproof, and the coverage, even in rural Kyoto, never faltered.
Another bonus: Nomad supports hotspot tethering — meaning I could connect my laptop to my phone without needing separate data or hardware. This proved invaluable for our remote work needs and helped us stay productive in between meals, hikes, and beach walks.
For those planning to travel beyond Japan, Nomad also offers regional plans—like CN-JP-KR or APAC—which allow you to roam across multiple countries with a single eSIM. It's perfect for multi-country journeys across Asia, and something I'll be using on future trips.
Nomad offers plans in over 200 countries, and if you want to try Nomad for yourself, you can use my referral code JOHNVADTRF for $5 off the first purchase or NOMJAPAN20 to get a 20% discount off your purchase. Whether you're visiting Japan for work, play, or a bit of both, having a solid connection is key. And with Nomad in your digital toolkit, you're never truly offline — even when you're lost in the surf, staring at the sea or cycling through centuries of history.
Whether you're visiting Japan for work, play, or a bit of both, having a solid connection is key. And with Nomad in your digital toolkit, you're never truly offline, even when you're lost in the surf, staring at the sea or cycling through centuries of history.