Nepal's new rule: Only climbers with 7,000 m experience can get Everest permits
Big news coming from Nepal! Now only climbers with 7,000 m experience would be able to get a permit to climb Everest, the highest mountain in the world. Yes, you read that right. So let's have a look at everything you need to know about this new rule:
Only experienced climbers will get permits
Nepal is planning a new regulation that would limit Mount
Everest climbing permits
to only those who have previously scaled a mountain of at least 7,000 meters. The move is aimed at adding safety and reducing fatalities up high. Everest's height is 8,849 meters.
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The new draft law is a response to increasing concerns about overcrowding and inexperience on Everest. In 2023, Nepal issued 478 climbing permits, leading to severe congestion in the 'Death Zone' — the high-altitude area near the summit where oxygen levels are dangerously low. That year saw at least 12 climbers die and five go missing on the mountain. Critics argue that too many unprepared climbers are being allowed to attempt the climb, putting themselves and others at risk.
Permits tied to climbing peaks within Nepal
Under the proposed legislation, climbers would need to show proof of summiting at least one 7,000-meter peak within Nepal before receiving an Everest permit. Additionally, the law mandates that expedition leaders, known as "sardars," and mountain guides must be Nepali citizens. The bill is currently under consideration in Nepal's National Assembly, where the ruling alliance holds the majority needed to pass it.
Scope
International expedition leaders have raised concerns about the restriction to Nepal-based peaks. They argue that experience on similar mountains worldwide, such as Aconcagua (Argentina), Denali (USA), or Ama Dablam (Nepal, 6,812 meters), should also qualify. Lukas Furtenbach of Furtenbach Adventures and Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering believe limiting eligibility to Nepal's few popular 7,000-meter peaks could be impractical and overly restrictive.
Nepal's mountaineering industry faces pressure
With over 400 open peaks — 74 of which are above 7,000 meters — Nepal is a global hub for high-altitude climbing. Yet, only a handful of these taller mountains attract climbers. As pressure mounts to improve safety standards, the government is navigating how to balance tourism revenue with responsible mountaineering practices.
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