Anglesey adventure: exploring the treasures of Ynys Môn

The Guardian

08-04-2025

In 1826, the opening of Thomas Telford's Menai Suspension Bridge connected mainland Wales to the island of Ynys Môn (Anglesey) for the very first time. The bridge was critical to creating a fast road link to the port of Holyhead and so improving communication links between London and Dublin.
Today, motoring tourists take advantage of Telford's vision every day (albeit linking up with the A55 North Wales Expressway) as they head to Holyhead to board ferries to Ireland. But in doing so, they bypass the many meandering, slow lane charms that dot the coastline of Ynys Môn.
This National Trust waterfront mansion dates back to the 16th century and sits amid 68 hectares (169 acres) of ornate gardens, woodland and parkland. It is perhaps most famous for one of its later owners, Henry Cyril Paget, fifth Marquess of Anglesey, whose flamboyant approach to life – including converting the family chapel into what he called the Gaiety theatre – was the stuff of scandal in stuffy Victorian Wales. His life will soon be brought to the big screen in a new film, Madfabulous.
Just south of Plas Newydd is Tide cafe, located at Halen Môn – Anglesey Sea Salt. It is open for drinks and snacks year-round (10.30am-2.30pm). While there, you can pick up some of Halen Môn's much lauded sea salt.
About 12 miles south of Amlwch lies Red Wharf Bay, a large sandy inlet that, at low tide, extends for 10 square miles. The Wales Coast Path hugs the bay, providing a panoramic view of the coast; it also offers the chance to explore Llanddona beach, which, in the 18th century was said to be controlled by a group of vicious outlaws known as the witches of Llanddona, who terrorised the local community. Returning to the top of the bay, the Ship Inn, The Old Boathouse or The Tavern on the Bay are good pit stops for a drink and food overlooking the sea.
Penmon Point is the eastern tip of Ynys Môn, and one of its oldest and most holy sites. It is a wild headland offering views of Trwyn Du lighthouse and Ynys Seiriol, an island that, in the fifth century, provided solitude and sanctuary for its namesake saint. Today it's better known as Puffin Island because, up until the late 19th century, it was a breeding haven for the birds.
Penmon Point is a favourite destination for walkers, birdwatchers and nature lovers, and offers views (on clear days) of Y Gogarth (the Great Orme headland). Two formidable white stone cottages face the sea at the tip of the point, while behind them sits the Pilot House cafe, serving food, drinks and cocktails indoors and in a colourful garden. For a more formal dining experience, head to Beaumaris and eat at Harry's Bistro, located in Henllys Hall golf club, or continue to Menai Bridge to explore the international cuisine of Freckled Angel or the tasting menu at Sosban & the Old Butchers – both located just a short distance from Telford's famous suspension bridge.
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Llanddwyn (also known as Newborough), near the island's southern tip, is perhaps Ynys Môn's best-known beach because of its views of Eryri (Snowdonia) and the Llŷn peninsula. However, I'd recommend heading north a few miles, over the Malltraeth cob (a causeway built by Telford), and on to the village of Aberffraw. Here you walk down the banks of the Ffraw to Traeth Mawr, a stunning wide sandy beach fit for a king. Rightly so. In the late 13th century, Aberffraw was the most important place in all of Wales – the seat of power for the princes of Gwynedd, Wales's dominant royal family.
Venture a little farther north to Rhosneigr, an equally attractive stretch of coast once famed for both piracy and wreckers, who lured ships on to the jagged rocks near the Crigyll river. Today, Rhosneigr is better known for its culinary scene than its smuggling. The Oystercatcher is a restaurant and bar located in the dunes not far from the two main beaches. In the warmer months, the Zapatismo food truck serves Mexican fare.
On the north coast of Anglesey lies a place so otherworldly that you won't be surprised to discover it's been a location for Doctor Who. This is Mynydd Parys, but its nickname is Copper Mountain because, for about 4,000 years, it was mined for valuable copper ore.
In the 18th century, Mynydd Parys became the largest copper ore exporter in the world – much of it being sent by ship from the nearby port of Amlwch to copperworks in the Swansea valley. Today, the mines are closed and the scorched red, gold and brown alien landscape has been transformed into a series of dramatic and (dare I say) awe-inspiring walking trails.
After a hike at Mynydd Parys, I like to head to Skye's creperie in Amlwch Harbour for great pancakes, brunch and even sushi.
Matthew Yeomans explored the coastal fringes of Ynys Môn for his new book, Seascape: Notes from a Changing Coastline (University of Wales Press, £18.99). To support the Guardian and Observer, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.