The reinvention of Catania – Sicily's once crime-ridden second city

The Guardian

a day ago

In 1787, Goethe wrote: 'To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.' I'd go one step further and claim it's impossible to really understand what makes the island tick without visiting Catania.
Located on the east coast of the island, Catania is Sicily's second-largest city and has been dubbed the Black City because of how prominently basalt features in its baroque architecture. Until recently this Unesco world heritage city, whose beauty can more than compete with its flashier neighbours, Palermo and Taormina, was blighted by organised crime and bad governance. But this is now changing, and fast. A decades-long crackdown on the Cosa Nostra has borne fruit, and previously no-go areas are now welcoming tourists and new businesses. My father's family hails from San Cristoforo, the city's poorest neighbourhood, and our conversations often centre on how the good times are finally arriving in Catania. But price points haven't yet caught up with the city's new-found buzz, especially in its many restaurants.
Affectionately known as Rosanna's by locals, Trattoria del Forestiero has been serving home-style dishes since 1965. My British-born mum was a waitress at the restaurant in the 1990s and one afternoon, after a night of heavy drinking, my dad, to whom she was teaching English at a language school in the city, popped in to cook her something to help with the hangover. He stuffed cotoletta, the breaded veal cutlet loved in Italy, with mozzarella, tomatoes and lots of garlic, and Cotoletta alla Cicco was born (Cicco being the diminutive of my late dad's name, Francesco). It's a must-eat dish, as is pasta alla norma, named after the Bellini opera, which is Catania's signature dish. Rosanna's version is particularly delicious because of its fresh hand-cut pasta, which is made daily.Mains about €10; on Instagram
Members of my family have been working on the stalls of this centuries-old fish market for ever. Growing up, I was taught to judge a fish market by its smell, or lack thereof, and so it's a source of great familial pride that La Pescheria smells of the sea. If you're staying in an apartment (there are now many Airbnbs in the city), buy telline, tiny triangle-shaped, colourful clams, and cook them as you would vongole, served with spaghetti. The market is also home to Antica Trattoria La Paglia, which has been feeding visitors and vendors for more than 200 years. The fish restaurant has a longstanding rivalry with Rosanna's – a ringing endorsement in locals' books. Its no-frills interior isn't much to write home about, but the black-and-white photos lining the walls offer nostalgic glimpses of the establishment's storied past.Mains are about €12; trattorialapaglia.it
These soft drink stands have been serving the Catanese for decades, and everyone – and their nonna – has an opinion about which is the best. For me, Giammona, founded in 1912, has the upper hand. Run by Francesco Giammona, who took over from his father in the 1980s, the art nouveau kiosk has retained its original marble-clad bar and stained glass windows. Although Giammona's menu has expanded in recent years to accommodate tourists' tastes, Sicilians go-to thirst quencher is seltz al limone: sparkling water, lemon juice and a generous pinch of salt. Please note that although Italians are big on food categories they don't, for some mysterious reason, differentiate between lemons and limes – so say if you want limoni gialli (lemons) or limoni verdi (limes).Drinks start from €1.50 at both kiosks. Giammona is on Instagram. Costa, Piazza Turi Ferro 20
Full disclosure: Il Borgo di Federico is run by my cousin. However, I challenge anyone to find a restaurant in a more scenic setting or one cooking tastier grilled bistecca di cavallo (horse steak). Situated in Piazza Federico di Svevia, its regular diners know to request an outdoor table, where they can look out on to Castello Ursino, a staggeringly imposing Norman castle a few feet away from the restaurant. If you're squeamish about eating horse meat, opt for the polpo all'insalata – octopus salad with parsley, capers and cubed vegetables.Mains start from €12; borgodifederico.it
Spread across Piazza Federico di Svevia, Gammazita has been serving drinks since 2013, and is named after the legendary Sicilian heroine who leapt into a well in 13th-century Catania 'rather than give in to the violence of the Angevin ruler'. The neighbourhood bar was set up by a cultural association along with other initiatives to 'help the people of the [San Cristoforo] ghetto', and regularly hosts music events and book clubs. Earnest politics aside, my family are regulars because the drinks are cheap and strong. There is a menu, but it's perfunctory – most customers will describe what they're in the mood for, and a bartender will make a drink for them. Cocktails are served in pint glasses.gammazita.it
Sicilians aren't keen on change, especially the gastronomical kind: my uncle once flatly refused to try stroganoff because 'cream only belongs in desserts'. Unfortunately, this means many are missing out on the island's blossoming Asian food scene. Catania's Bangladeshi population makes up nearly 7% of the city's 13,000 foreign-born residents, and community restaurants are popping up across the city. The unassuming-looking Bangla Spicy Food, which backs on to the historic A Fera O'Luni market on Piazza Carlo Alberto (where my great-nonna once sold fruit and vegetables) is good and cheap: you can order several dishes and get change from a fiver. Don't leave without trying the aromatic dal bhuna and flaky, buttery parathas. Waiters will supply cutlery if asked, but most customers here eat with their hands.Mains start from €1; on Facebook
Catanese have been trekking to Alecci, in the suburb of Gravina, since 1978. The original owner is still working behind the bar, wearing the cafe's trademark maroon uniform and serving some of the city's best coffee and snacks. At breakfast, they serve granita with brioche. Legend has it that in the ninth century, when Sicily was under Moorish occupation, Arabs mixed the snow of Mount Etna (Europe's most continually belching volcano) with fruit juices, and granita was born. Whatever its history, Sicilians are inordinately proud of granita and have strict rules when it comes to its flavour combinations. Broadly speaking, chocolate, coffee and nut granitas can be eaten together, as can all fruits. Coffees around €2; granitas start from €5. On Facebook
For those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city, Marina di Ragusa village has a stunningly beautiful nature reserve with a secluded 6km trail along the Irminio River and lush Mediterranean coastline. It's a popular spot for Sicilian families and birdwatchers (a number of migratory species rest their wings here during their journeys from Africa). In the village, Ristorante Il Delfino is perched on the edge of the Andrea Doria shore and serves traditional Sicilian dishes such as pasta con le sarde (made with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts and saffron). For a sweet treat, Don Peppinu is the self-proclaimed 'No. 1' gelateria in all of Italy. There are several outlets across the island, but word of mouth says the one in Marina di Ragusa is the best and serves a signature pistachio flavour.Mains at Ristorante Il Delfino start at €15. Gelatos at Don Peppinu cost around €4