The One That Started It All: Jane Birkin's Original Hermès Bag Heads to Auction at Sotheby's

Harpers Bazaar Arabia

a day ago

This July, Sotheby's Paris will offer collectors and admirers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity: to own the original Birkin—the very handbag designed for and with Jane Birkin herself, that would go on to define modern luxury. For decades, the Birkin has held court as the most recognisable and elusive accessory on the planet. But before it became […]
This July, Sotheby's Paris will offer collectors and admirers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity: to own the original Birkin—the very handbag designed for and with Jane Birkin herself, that would go on to define modern luxury.
For decades, the Birkin has held court as the most recognisable and elusive accessory on the planet. But before it became synonymous with waitlists and wealth, it was just a beautifully made black leather bag, crafted by Hermès in 1984 for a woman known for turning simple into chic. That exact bag will lead Sotheby's inaugural Fashion Icons auction in Paris on July 10, just as the world's style set descends on the capital for Haute Couture Week.
Exhibited publicly only a handful of times—from Sotheby's Paris galleries to their Hong Kong maison—the original Birkin is marked by seven unique design details that separate it from every iteration since.
While the first Birkin bags created by Hermès were 40 cm in size, and then by 35 cm in size, the original Birkin is a hybrid of the two sizes; It has the width and height of a Birkin 35 with the depth of a Birkin 40, with unique studs, zipper, hardware and the strap. A handmade prototype rich with patina and lived-in character, it is unmistakably Jane: practical, iconic, and a little bit rebellious. Before it goes under the hammer, the bag will appear in a rare public showing at Sotheby's New York galleries from June 6-12.
'It's incredible to think that a bag designed as a practical solution has grown into such a defining emblem of luxury,' says Morgane Halimi, Sotheby's Global Head of Handbags and Fashion. 'The prototype that started it all carries a soul and legacy that no other handbag can claim.'
'There are rare moments when an object transcends trend and becomes a legend,' Halimi continues. 'Jane Birkin's original bag is such a moment. A true unicorn in fashion history, it belongs in the same breath as Princess Diana's Black Sheep jumper or Freddie Mercury's crown and cloak.'
The bag's final sale estimate remains confidential, but expectations are unsurprisingly high. What Sotheby's does confirm is that the bag will join an illustrious line-up of archival fashion pieces in the Paris Fashion Icons sale—from sculptural pieces by Thierry Mugler to rare runway looks by Dior, Galliano, McQueen, and Azzedine Alaïa. Bidding will open online from June 26 to July 10, and viewings will be held at Sotheby's Paris galleries on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré from July 3-9.
As always, Sotheby's continues to lead the secondary market for Hermès handbags—whether it's a crisp white Himalaya, a neon Limited Edition, or the rarest collector's pieces in alligator, ostrich, or box calf. Today, over 1,200 Hermès bags are available for immediate purchase on Sotheby's Buy Now platform, a digital trove for serious collectors and first-timers alike. But none of them carry the legacy of this one. Because only one bag was carried by Jane Birkin—and only one started it all.