You can boat through France's 'Wild West' where wild horses, black bulls and flamingos roam free

Daily Mirror

26-04-2025

From a neon-pink salt lake that looked like it belonged in the Barbie movie to an unconventional cattle ranch where bulls double as cowboys' family pets, my trip with Le Boat was no ordinary cruise.
Having boarded our vessel, the five-bedroom Horizon 5, in St Gilles, a gorgeous old town on the Rhone-Sete Canal, we glided off on an adventure of discovery. I'd visited Camargue in the South of France before, but had never experienced it from the top deck of a self-drive riverboat, the water beneath glittering brightly as it reflected the sun.
It was tempting to lounge, watching white horses graze by the waterways as we dreamily cruised by, but with new things to see around every bend, there was more on my agenda than relaxing. At times the area reminded me of Carcassonne without the crowds, the Everglades without the alligators and France's very own answer to Clarkson's Farm.
Although they're geographically close, the Camargue culture couldn't be more different to life in the nearby glitzy French Riviera.
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First stop-off was at the Manade Saint Louis cattle ranch.
Bull-fighting is a tradition around here, but it's a million miles from the bloodshed-fuelled clashes seen in Spain. Instead, in one version of the fight, bulls are goaded by men who pose as prey – but once the animal's fight instinct kicks in, they race off to evade them as they charge at them in hot pursuit.
No sooner have they escaped than they head back to the centre of the ring to brave its fury again. Fans go there to witness an adrenalin-pumping sport of skill and strategy. Fighters can earn £100,000 from a single event.
At the Manade Saint Louis, run by husband and wife team Jean-Claude and Karine Groul, who are third-generation bull farm breeders, it's not about the fight. Instead, visitors get an insight into the relationship between humans and animals.
While I'd seen horses grazing by the canal, I was about to get closer when one poked its head through the window of our 4x4 and leaned in for a kiss. Karine – a dead ringer for Shania Twain – had a clear rapport with her cattle, leaping out of the car at one point to greet her favourite cow and declaring: 'This one is my daughter!'
Karine's husband then went on to lead a herding demonstration on horseback, which saw bulls respond with military precision. Although it's a controversial sport, our tour guide later offered a different perspective: 'Audiences are not coming to watch an animal die. They're coming to watch a man risk his life.'
No sooner had we acquainted ourselves with the local cattle than we were heading to our next destination, Le Grau du Roi, where you have the chance to ride them.
Taking the reins of the boat was a different experience entirely. It was remarkably easy as there are no locks to negotiate on the waterways of the Camargue, so no prior experience is necessary. It can be driven in the open air on the upstairs sundeck or from the interior below in cases where we needed respite from the weather.
With five ensuite cabins, plus a spacious sofa in the saloon that can convert into an extra bed, there was plenty of space for everyone.
And our next excursion plunged us straight into the quintessentially Camarguaise scene that adorns the postcards and fridge magnets in the souvenir shops – slender white horses walking on water as they stroll down the beach at sunset, a flame orange hue lighting up the sky.
To become part of the postcard, Ecurie des Dunes offers two-hour beach riding sessions for around £50.
Also in the area is the unmissable 17th century lighthouse Phare de l'Espiguette, which boasts­ panoramic views to those willing to climb the spiral staircase to the top.
The wildlife adventures continued when we spotted flamingos. For close-up views of the elegant pink birds with no need to zoom on your camera, Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau fits the bill. But you can also see wild flamingos at Scamandre Nature Reserve – a haven of biodiversity surrounded by beautiful marshes that can be accessed via boardwalks.
Here I caught sight of tiny ­flamingos so young they hadn't yet turned pink. The region is also one of a tiny number of locations in the world to boast naturally pink lakes, and it's certainly the closest one to Britain, with some others as far afield as Senegal and Australia.
The colour is derived from the high salt content. In normal conditions, shrimps feed on its algae, but the extra-high salt level of these particular waters is inhospitable for them, so the pigmented algae remains and turns the water pink.
The shade can vary depending on the time of the year, sometimes appearing orange or lilac.
The surrounding salt marshes and pans provide sea salt for the food industry, with harvesting taking place in summer. The lake's 'organic pink algae gel' is also the miracle ingredient in the gift shop's face creams.
We continued our love affair with local products at a wine tasting, enjoying the Caveau les Sablons brand which had come directly from nearby vineyards.
Beyond the marshes, rice fields and languid pink lakes, there are cities to be explored.
A walk along the ramparts of picturesque Aigues-Mortes was one of the highlights of the trip. We'd moored our boat there, next to the city's medieval fortress, before heading out to the salt marsh which inspired its name (Aigues-Mortes translates to dead water.) We also headed to Arles, famed for its Roman ruins, including a 20,000-seat amphitheatre that once staged gladiator fights and chariot races, but now offers bull-fights. Concerts are held at the Roman Theatre too.
Another highlight was the Cryptoporticus, an underground gallery packed with art, dating back to the 1st century BC.
Yet the piece de resistance was being led to the spot where Vincent Van Gogh cut off his ear. Lively commentary was provided by our guide Anne, who spoke about local culture, as well as taking us to multiple locations painted by the artist, including the hospital where he received treatment and the cafe seen in one of his most famous works, Cafe Terrace At Night.
It wasn't originally neon yellow but was painted that hue years later to resemble the way Van Gogh ­portrayed it when it was bathed by the bright light of a full moon.
As we cruised, we also stopped off at smaller places for a taste of Camargue far from the tourist trail.
The village bakery of Gallician operates at rock bottom prices and we filled our bags with brioche, baguettes and hot slices of pizza before heading back to the boat.
Bull looms large on restaurant menus, although veggie and vegan options are available.
My culinary highlight was a blue buffalo cheese with a kick of chilli, and the local rice was delicious.
Restaurants we enjoyed included L'Atelier des Halles in Saint Gilles and Le Dit Vin and L'Oustau Camarguais in Aigues Mortes.
The latter stood out as a living art museum, rotating its pieces to replace ones purchased by diners.
On our last night, we lived like the locals and cooked up a feast on board the boat, using exclusively Camargue-bought ingredients.
This region is all about picturesque rural nature scenes and I was left in no doubt that the most rewarding way to experience it is at the helm of a boat.
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