This animal sanctuary lets you track rare rhinos on foot in Kenya

Yahoo

07-04-2025

Sand sifts through the fingers of Jimmy Lekiondo, a Samburu safari guide at Saruni Rhino who specializes in rhino tracking. It blows to the ground as he scans the trees with squinted eyes. Noticing my curiosity, he whispers, 'Rhinos can't see well but are very sensitive to smell. We do this to ensure they don't catch our scent.' Motioning for me to follow, he cautions, 'Walk lightly.' Rhinos are also highly sensitive to sound.
'There!' Lekiondo stops and suddenly points. Between the bushes, I see what looks like a giant grey boulder. Then, it moves. A massive southern white rhino stands. Startled by its size, I leap behind Lekiondo, spooking the rhino, which bolts in the opposite direction. 'Never move until I say,' he warns, clearly frustrated. In this environment, following instructions is critical.
Until that moment, I hadn't realized white rhinos are actually grey (the name comes from the width of their mouth) or just how massive they are—the second-largest land mammals on Earth after the African elephant. Our tracking experience is as real as it gets. For hours, we trek through the bush as Lekiondo follows footprints, dissects dung piles, and flings sand to gauge the wind's direction. We're searching for the elusive black and white rhinos that roam the 10,700 hectares (26,000 acres) of the Sera Rhino Sanctuary within Samburu's Sera Conservancy.
I am one of two guests on this riveting rhino trek, led by Lekiondo and two armed rangers. This is the first and only community-managed black rhino sanctuary in East Africa, and the only site in Northern Kenya where visitors can track both black and white rhinos on foot. I take comfort in knowing that every step taken here not only brings me closer to these endangered animals but also supports their survival and the communities dedicated to their protection.
Until February 2024, white rhinos had never roamed Samburu; they are native to South Africa, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. Last year, four adult southern white rhinos—two males and two females—were translocated from Lewa Wildlife Conservancy to Sera, marking the first-ever presence of white rhinos in the region.
This initiative builds on Sera's success in reintroducing black rhinos to Samburu. Before their translocation in 2015, black rhinos hadn't been seen in Samburu since the late 1980s, according to Albert Leturuka, Sera Rhino Sanctuary Manager. Historically, black rhinos roamed the region for thousands of years but were wiped out by poaching. Nearly 30 years later, thanks to Sera's pioneering efforts–not only reintroducing the species to Samburu, but incorporating a community-centric conservation model, establishing wildlife corridors to counter human-wildlife conflict and facilitate the free movement of other wildlife, and employing advanced monitoring and notching techniques to rigorously track the species–the black rhinos are back and thriving.
Rhino poaching may sound like an archaic problem, but it's a concern even today. In 2025 alone, 35 rhinos have been poached from South Africa's Kruger National Park, with 19 incidents occurring at the same location in 2024.
Rhino translocations reduce overpopulation, resource competition, and threats in high-density areas. Since their arrival, Sera has seen zero poaching incidents and a 92-percent population increase—from 10 black and 4 white rhinos to 22 black (9 adults, 13 young) and 5 white, including a newborn. And it's not just about the rhinos, these efforts are directly supporting the local community too.
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All Sera Conservancy rangers and staff are local like Albert. 'I'm from the Seriolipi Group Ranch,' says Albert. 'I understand the landscape–I've been looking after animals here since childhood.' This lifelong connection makes the team invaluable to the sanctuary. They're personally invested in conservation and see direct benefits in their communities.
Albert attributes Sera's success to community involvement. Through the Basecamp Explorer Foundation, the non-profit arm of Saruni Basecamp, and conservancy fees, social services like medical benefits, school scholarships, water access, employment, and transportation to clinics are provided. 'The relationship has created a sense of 'this is ours' within the local community,' he explains. 'Decisions are made through a citizen board, so the community has a voice in decision making.'
Svein Wilhelmsen, founder and chair of Saruni Basecamp, emphasizes their commitment to Sera's mission. 'We really want to support the initiative of the rhino sanctuary because we think it's so important for stability and the local community,' he says. 'It's about balancing commercial viability with job creation.'
Saruni Rhino, a small community-owned lodge, employs only local staff and features just four bandas (rustic cottages). The land and the fixed assets belong to the community, and Saruni Rhino manages the business, directing profits back to local initiatives. Guests come specifically for the rare thrill of tracking rhinos on foot, knowing their stay directly supports conservation and community projects.
Tourism revenue funds schools, healthcare, and infrastructure while creating conservation and hospitality jobs. The lodge itself prioritizes sustainability, using eco-friendly materials–the camp features bandas, rustic stone cottages with thatched roofing and canvas roll-down windows, plus, they use solar power throughout, and promote water conservation.Saruni Rhino has achieved a Silver Eco-Rating from Ecotourism Kenya, and conservation fees directly support anti-poaching efforts and habitat restoration, ensuring rhino and wildlife protection.
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At the end of rhino tracking excursion, we visit Loijipu, a young black rhino raised by rangers and accustomed to human interaction. Born at Sera to mother Nairenyu and father Loeku, he was the second rhino born here post-translocation. At two days old, a ranger found him alone, likely abandoned. 'Without milk, he was in danger,' Albert explains.
Loijipu was flown to Reteti Elephant Orphanage in northern Kenya, where he was nursed alongside elephant calves for nine months before returning to Sera. Unable to reintegrate with wild rhinos, he now lives in a designated space within the sanctuary, cared for by dedicated rangers.
The best time to visit is during Kenya's dry season (June to October, and December to March), and rhino tracking usually takes place early in the morning to avoid the midday heat. To access this experience, visitors will first need to fly into Nairobi, and then fly by small bush plane to Samburu, followed by a two-hour scenic drive to the remote conservancy.
A two-night stay at Saruni Rhino grants exclusive access to the Sera Rhino Sanctuary and its on-foot rhino tracking experience. While there, guests can even stay in a banda named after Loijipu, a cozy cottage overlooking a dry riverbed. Afternoons offer game drives, village visits, or riverbed walks, followed by refreshing dips in the pool or naps under the shade of swaying palms and thorny acacias.
From here, you may spot some of Samburu's most spectacular wildlife, such as the 'Samburu Special Five,' which include the reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, Beisa oryx, Somali ostrich, and gerenuk. These special sightings add to the draw of the more commonly sought-after 'Big Five' sightings which can also be found in this unique sanctuary in northern Kenya.
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Bianca Bujan is an award-winning travel writer from Vancouver, BC Canada, specializing in luxury, family, and adventure travel, with a focus on culture, cuisine, and conservation. Follow her adventures on Instagram.