Jacques Pépin: History Is Culinary

New York Times

a day ago

This personal reflection is part of a series called The Big Ideas, in which writers respond to a single question: What is history? You can read more by visiting The Big Ideas series page.
As a young chef in the 1950s, I had a bit of a complex about not having an education. I had left school at the age of 13 and learned my trade in the kitchen. I was traveling to New York City in 1959, looking to expand my horizons, when someone on my boat mentioned Columbia University as the best school in the city. A week after I arrived, I took the subway uptown to Columbia's campus.
I would go on to study at Columbia from the fall of 1959 to the spring of 1972. During my time there, I proposed a doctoral dissertation on the history of French cooking in the context of history and literature. I was amazed by how many of the great French works contained references to food, eating and the art of the table. The wedding feast in Gustave Flaubert's 'Madame Bovary' is meticulously depicted, and in Colette's 'Chéri,' breakfast becomes an important ritual with sexual overtones. My proposal was turned down. The subject was too menial, too simple — not worth the intellectual pursuit. I dropped out.
For many years, the work of cooking was indeed considered too menial. A chef was a physical laborer in a basement kitchen dealing with food, fat and dirty dishes, doing nothing more than creating sustenance. But there is nothing more worthy of intellectual pursuit and respect than food. Not only is it a part of history, it also actively shapes and reflects it. Indeed, my whole life, my history, was molded by it.
I was born in 1935, on the eve of World War II. Life was simpler then. The Michelin Guide, whose prestigious designations are now sought by chefs around the world, had only begun awarding stars to restaurants in 1926 and was exclusively the domain of the French. It would be decades before a Michelin star was granted to a restaurant outside of France. Our history — and what we ate — was defined by and limited to our own place and time.
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