Why it's time to stop under-estimating South African wine

Independent

21-03-2025

Ask the average British wine drinker what they think of South African wine and the response is likely to fall into one of two camps: it's either a serviceable supermarket staple or, at best, a decent-value alternative to a French classic. Fine wine? Not quite. At least, that's the perception – but it's also completely wrong.
For centuries, South African wine has occupied a curious space in the global market. It has history – some of the oldest winemaking traditions in the New World. It has terroir – arguably some of the most diverse and exciting in the world. And it has winemakers producing wines that can compete with and in some cases surpass, those of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne. Yet, despite all this, South African wine has struggled to shake off its reputation as a budget option rather than a fine wine destination.
With a new generation of ambitious winemakers and a shift in perception, this is beginning to change.
The origins of South African wine date back to the 17th century, when Dutch settlers planted the first vineyards at the Cape of Good Hope. By the 18th century, the region's Vin de Constance was one of the most sought-after wines in Europe, gracing the tables of Napoleon and British royalty. Jane Austen prescribed it as a tonic for heartbreak.
But the 19th century saw the industry collapse under the weight of phylloxera (an aphid infestation that can destroy whole vineyards), British free trade with France and shifting economic fortunes. By the time South Africa re-entered the global wine market in the post-Apartheid era, it was effectively starting from scratch.
One of the biggest reasons South African wine deserves more recognition is its terroir. The country benefits from an incredible diversity of soils, microclimates and elevations, making it one of the most exciting wine-producing regions in the world.
The Cape Winelands have a Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters. However, regions differ dramatically due to their proximity to the ocean, mountain ranges and soil compositions. Stellenbosch, with its granite and sandstone soils, produces powerful yet structured reds, akin to those of Bordeaux. The Swartland region, known for its schist and shale soils, has drawn comparisons to the Rhône Valley for its expressive, textured Syrahs and old-vine Chenin Blancs. Meanwhile, Robertson's limestone-rich soils, much like those found in Champagne, make it an ideal location for Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) sparkling wines, such as those produced by Graham Beck.
Cool-climate regions like Hemel-en-Aarde and Elgin have emerged as South Africa's answer to Burgundy, producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with striking elegance and minerality. Here, altitude and the maritime influence of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans help retain acidity and finesse, giving these wines a distinct sense of place. South Africa doesn't just mimic European wine regions – it carves its own identity, producing wines that blend Old World complexity with New World purity of fruit.
South Africa's reputation as a fine wine producer is built on more than just its terroir – its grape varieties tell an equally compelling story. The country's most widely planted grape, Chenin Blanc, is perhaps its greatest asset. While Chenin Blanc is historically associated with the Loire Valley, South Africa has taken it to new heights, producing styles that range from crisp and mineral-driven to richly textured and barrel-aged. Swartland and Stellenbosch are home to some of the world's oldest Chenin vines, producing wines with concentration and depth that rival top-tier Vouvray and Savennières.
Pinotage, South Africa's signature red variety, is another point of distinction. A cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, it was created in the 1920s to thrive in South Africa's climate. While early examples suffered from inconsistency, modern Pinotage – particularly from producers like Kanonkop and Beeslaar – has evolved into a sophisticated, age-worthy wine. Its structure and dark fruit character place it somewhere between the elegance of Pinot Noir and the power of Syrah, making it a uniquely South African expression that has no direct Old World equivalent.
Beyond these, South Africa excels with Syrah, producing wines that are reminiscent of the Northern Rhône, with peppery, savoury complexity. Stellenbosch and Swartland have become strongholds for Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, often showing a balance of ripe fruit and refined tannins akin to Left Bank Bordeaux. The country's cool-climate Sauvignon Blancs, particularly from Elgin and Constantia, are drawing comparisons to Sancerre, offering freshness, minerality and precision.
Now that South African wine is fully integrated into the global market, why is it still viewed as a value-driven category rather than a fine wine powerhouse?
Many UK drinkers still assume that South African wine is cheap and cheerful, with little to offer beyond supermarket bargains. Others believe that, unlike French or Italian wines, it lacks the history or prestige to be considered truly fine. There's also a sense that South African wines are too rustic, too bold, or too inconsistent – certainly not the kind of wines that reward patience or investment.
But for those willing to look beyond the supermarket aisle, South Africa is producing some of the most exciting wines in the world today. A new wave of winemakers and estates is proving that the country is more than capable of delivering complexity, finesse and age-worthiness. And if any brands illustrate this shift, it's Journey's End, Graham Beck and Klein Constantia – three names that are rewriting the South African wine narrative.
Journey's End is a case study in how South African still wines can rival Burgundy and Bordeaux. This Stellenbosch-based estate, founded in the 1990s, was established with a clear focus on producing premium, terroir-driven wines. The Gabb family, who own the estate, have prioritised sustainability and ethical winemaking, making it one of the most forward-thinking producers in the Cape Winelands.
Their V Series Chardonnay, for instance, has the kind of elegance and mineral precision that would be right at home in a lineup of top-tier white Burgundies. Meanwhile, their Cape Doctor Bordeaux Blend – a structured, age-worthy red named after the dry south-easterly wind that blows into the country in spring – proves that South Africa can produce wines with the same complexity and longevity as its French counterparts.
Journey's End also leads the charge in sustainability, with a commitment to solar-powered energy, conservation projects and Fairtrade labour practices. If South African wine is still mistakenly seen as a bargain-bin category, wines like these should be enough to change minds.
While Journey's End makes the case for South African still wines, Graham Beck does the same for sparkling. The UK is a Champagne-obsessed market, yet few drinkers realise that South Africa's Méthode Cap Classique can compete at the highest level.
Graham Beck was founded in 1983 and has been at the forefront of MCC production, elevating South Africa's sparkling wine scene to world-class. Perhaps its most famous moments came when both Nelson Mandela and Barack Obama toasted their victories with Graham Beck Brut, reinforcing its status as a celebratory wine.
Their Blanc de Blancs, sourced from the limestone-rich soils of Robertson – soils strikingly similar to those of Champagne – delivers the crisp acidity, refined mousse and brioche complexity that serious sparkling wine lovers crave. Their prestige cuvée, Cuvée Clive, has been compared to some of the finest vintage Champagnes, proving that South Africa isn't just an alternative – it's a contender. And with MCC's growing reputation among sommeliers and collectors, Graham Beck is leading the charge in positioning South Africa as a serious force in the world of sparkling wine.
No South African winery encapsulates the country's fine wine heritage better than Klein Constantia. If UK drinkers assume South Africa lacks history, they need only look to Vin de Constance. First produced in the 17th century, it became one of the most celebrated wines of its time before vanishing for over a century, only to be resurrected in the 1980s with painstaking dedication to its original style.
Today, Vin de Constance is one of the most collectible wines in the Southern Hemisphere, proving that South Africa can produce age-worthy, world-class wines to rival Château d'Yquem and Tokaji. Beyond its famous sweet wine, Klein Constantia has also established itself as a leader in cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines that have drawn comparisons to the best of Sancerre. The estate's legacy and revival make it the ultimate proof that South African wine is not a new contender in fine wine – it is a historic player reclaiming its rightful place on the world stage.
Together, these brands dismantle the myths that have long held South African wine back. The evidence is clear – South Africa is no longer just a value-driven wine country, but a world-class producer of fine, age-worthy wines. It has the history, the terroir and the winemaking talent to rival the best from Europe, and it's time the UK market recognised that. Those still dismissing it as a cheap alternative are missing out on some of the most exciting wines available today. The question is no longer whether South African wine deserves a place alongside the greats – it's whether UK drinkers are ready to catch up and give it the respect it has long deserved.