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A Tropical, Chewy Lunar New Year Dessert

A Tropical, Chewy Lunar New Year Dessert

New York Times29-01-2025

Earlier this month, the writer and curator Su Wu was at home in Mexico City, making tang yuan with her daughter, Isa, 6. The warm dessert of mochi-like dumplings and sweet broth or syrup is traditionally served on the first full moon of the year, and preparing it together has become a family ritual. 'Tang means 'soup' and yuan means 'round' but also 'unity,'' says Wu, who moved to Mexico from California nine years ago. 'And clear soups on New Year's have this idea of bringing clarity.'
Wu's grandmother, who spent most of her childhood in Taiwan, passed down her recipe, and the dish has changed slightly with each generation. 'My version is reflective of the diaspora of my extended family,' says Wu, 'and of desserts from other places that celebrate Lunar New Year.' Tang yuan dumplings are often stuffed with red bean or black sesame paste. 'But I like to serve it in a way that's more tropical,' says Wu, who looks to the flavors of Vietnamese chè, a collection of desserts that incorporate fruit like lychee and mango, and Singaporean chendol, a sweet iced drink loaded with pandan jelly and coconut milk.
The first step is to form the dumplings, from a combination of glutinous rice flour and boiling water. (Wu adds beet juice to half the dough, turning it pink.) The balls are then boiled until they float, a sign that they're perfectly cooked. This year, Wu's been making the ginger-infused soup base with Chinese slab sugar that her parents left her after a recent visit, and she likes to toss a handful of goji berries into the liquid, to add chewiness. Other additions are optional, but for Wu and her daughter, it's all about components that add a bright fruit flavor or 'Q' texture, as the Taiwanese term the bounciness of mochi and jelly. She opts for grass jelly and sago, and for fruit, papaya. It's both native to Mexico and 'considered a very traditional Southern Chinese soup ingredient,' says Wu, who remembers a recipe for papaya fish-tail soup in a Cantonese cookbook written by her mother.
In April, an exhibition curated by Wu will open at Dallas Contemporary. Titled 'You Stretched Diagonally Across It: Contemporary Tapestry,' the show will feature works by 27 artists from around the world. Looking at textiles made with age-old techniques has shifted Wu's view of other traditions, including culinary ones, she says. 'The thing about traditions is that they are, in so many ways, a fantasy. There's this capacity for us to really highlight what it is about the story that's important to us.'
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