Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti: An iconic watch gets a timeless makeover
For centuries, the serpent has slithered through myth and legend as a symbol of transformation, power, and mystery. It has also long been a muse in the world of jewellery, with Bulgari's iconic Serpenti collection standing as its most celebrated incarnation since 1948. Now, in an unexpected partnership, Bulgari and MB&F have reimagined this ancient creature in an entirely new form — one of metal and sapphire, brought to life by the mechanical heartbeat of haute horlogerie. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is not just a watch. It's a kinetic being, shaped by the visions of Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Maximilian Büsser, two minds unafraid to push the boundaries of their craft.
This is not Bulgari's classic Serpenti, coiled in gold and gemstones, nor is it an MB&F Horological Machine, designed for pure mechanical spectacle. Instead, it is a fusion of the former's boldness and the latter's avant-garde genius — where time isn't simply displayed but revealed through the serpent's luminous gaze.
To bring the Serpenti to life in this way, a traditional watch case wouldn't do. Instead, the design had to reflect the essence of the creature itself, fluid, asymmetrical, and constantly shifting. The result is a masterpiece of sculpted sapphire and metal, in a shape that does not conform to conventional watchmaking geometry. Five sapphire crystals form the 'eyes' and reveal the inner mechanics, each one meticulously crafted, anti-reflectively treated, and seamlessly integrated into the design. Achieving this level of precision while ensuring water resistance to 30 metres is an extraordinary feat of microengineering. But beyond the technical brilliance, it's the watch's presence that truly captivates. From every angle, it seems to transform, catching the light, shifting in perspective, and alive in a way few timepieces ever are.
The Serpenti is powered by an MB&F-crafted manual-winding movement, a mechanical heart that pulses with life. Time is displayed on two ultra-thin, rotating aluminium domes, one for the hours, and one for the minutes, hand-coated in Super-LumiNova. In darkness, this creates a mesmerising effect of a reptilian stare that never blinks. Above this hypnotic display, the oversized 14mm flying balance wheel pulses in full view, suspended beneath a sculpted bridge engraved with the names of its creators — a signature as bold as the timepiece itself. In a final touch of engineering mastery, the crowns are discreetly integrated into the rear lugs, preserving the uninterrupted fluidity of the design.
This is not just a watch, but a bold reimagining of what haute horlogerie can be when unshackled from convention"
The timepiece is completed with a hand-stitched rubber strap and Velcro closure — an uncharacteristic touch of practicality in an otherwise otherworldly creation. This is not just a watch, but a bold reimagining of what haute horlogerie can be when unshackled from convention. With this reimagined version of the Serpenti, Bulgari and MB&F have not simply collaborated, they have breathed new life into a legend.
The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in three striking variations, each limited to just 33 pieces. The grade 5 titanium edition, with its blue domes, has an icy, almost otherworldly presence. The 18K rose gold version, with deep emerald-green 'eyes', radiates warmth and opulence. The black PVD-coated stainless steel model, with its fiery red domes, is perhaps the most intense of them all, evoking visions of a serpent coiled and ready to strike. Available at the MAD Gallery and Bulgari boutiques for Dh569,000 for the Titanium and Black Steel editions, and Dh655,000 for the Rose Gold edition.
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