Everest: The Final Wave Begins, Amid Rumors of an Early Closure
Everest has had nearly 500 summits so far, but patient climbers waiting for a quieter mountain during the last week of May likely won't have a chance. The unofficial word around Base Camp is that the Icefall Doctors, who maintain the Khumbu Icefall, will close it soon. Forecasts also predict that the weather will worsen beginning on Sunday, so many of those climbers who have not yet summited are going up tonight.
As we post this story, a significant number of groups are leaving Camp 4 for the summit. Among them are Madison Mountaineering, Alpine Ascents International, and Brazil's Grade 6. Many of these climbers have been in their tents at the South Col at 7,950m for two days, waiting for the wind to abate.
For Marcelo Segovia of Ecuador, who is climbing without supplementary oxygen, the prolonged delay has been a sufferfest. Segovia reached Camp 4 yesterday and spent his "hardest night on a mountain in 17 years," he admitted on Instagram. "I just pray for the strength to endure one more night."
This morning, Segovia was relieved to see the sun. He decided to leave on his final push at 7 pm local time this evening. Yet, three hours before departure, thick clouds had wrapped the South Col.
Mountain runners Tyler Andrews of the U.S. and Karl Egloff of Ecuador are also about to leave, each following his own strategy and timing. Both have the same objective: to climb Everest faster than anyone else (and each other), without supplemental oxygen. They expect to summit on May 24. Andrews is timing himself just to the summit; Egloff is timing the round trip.
Egloff had hoped to wait until the typically stable days at the end of the month before the monsoon hits. But given the uncertainty of next week, he has decided to leave Base Camp tomorrow at 6 pm.
Andrews had originally aimed to set off on Friday, May 23, but instead will leave tomorrow at precisely one minute to midnight, six hours after Egloff. They hope to make their way up after most of the oxygen-supported teams finish. We can expect news from this pair at around noon Nepal time on Saturday, just before 2 am Eastern Time.
The question is, why the big rush this weekend? Statistically, the last days of May are usually the best, but this season, the weather has been particularly hard to read. The jet stream has changed its altitude constantly. When it dips, it hits the upper slopes of Everest. When it lifts, the risk of serious frostbite diminishes. Teams check the latest forecasts hourly but don't entirely believe them, because they've been misled so often this spring.
Another reason is the Khumbu Icefall. Reportedly, conditions below Camp 1 are degrading quickly under the hot spring sun. Ladders are shifting, and some seracs are showing signs of instability. No one has announced an official closing date, but several climbers don't like what they've been hearing around Base Camp and have chosen to hurry up right away.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Yahoo
4 hours ago
- Yahoo
Casemiro makes typically combative return to international action for Brazil
Manchester United had three players involved in CONMEBOL World Cup qualifiers. Casemiro made his return to the Brazil national team after his former boss at Real Madrid, Carlo Ancelotti, was named manager. He was captain at the 2022 World Cup but has not been involved in the national team set-up for about a year. Advertisement The 33 year old started in the centre of the park and put in an impressive shift in his side's 0-0 draw against Ecuador. He played the entire 90 minutes, completing 72% of his passing attempts. Casemiro was also an attacking threat, having one shot on target and one off as his side failed to break down a stubborn Ecuador side in Guayaquil. As usual though, his most impressive work came in the middle of the park as he won six out of nine ground duels. He also impressively won all four of his aerial battles, dominating the middle of the park like he had never been away. The midfield enforcer was also heavily involved defensively, making six clearances and a total of five tackles. Advertisement Commenting in a post-match interview, Casemiro lamented the state of the pitch in Ecuador. He claimed, 'I think the pitch didn't really help the match. I always say you can't have excuses but the pitch, the field, didn't help a lot.' United also had new signing Matheus Cunha on the bench and he played the final 26 minutes. Unfortunately, he failed to have much of an impact on the game, as he could only complete seven passes and failed in his only dribble attempt. Cunha was also unable to get off any shots on goal in the stalemate. United's loan star at Real Betis, Antony, was named on the bench but he did not manage to get any minutes of action. Advertisement Brazil will next be in action on Tuesday evening (Wednesday morning UK time) when they face Paraguay at home. Manuel Ugarte also started for Uruguay in their 0-2 defeat to Paraguay. He played the entire 90 minutes of action and made 79% of his passes. Ugarte impressively connected with all six of his long range passes as he tried to propel his team forward. He won 100% of his aerials duels and was typically combative in the middle of the park, winning eight ground duels. Ugarte as usual, was highly involved in the defensive dirty work, making five clearances and four tackles. He will hope his side can bounce back from defeat when they host Venezuela on Tuesday evening (Wednesday morning UK time). Advertisement Featured image Franklin Jacome via Getty Images Follow us on Bluesky: @
Yahoo
12 hours ago
- Yahoo
Scotland survive scare to beat Nepal in thriller
Cricket World Cup League 2: Scotland v Nepal, Forthill Scotland 323-6 (50 overs): Berrington 102, Leask 96*; Singh Airee 2-37 Nepal 321 (50 overs): Sharki 73, Kami 67; Jones 3-55 Scotland won by two runs Advertisement Scorecard Scotland survived a major scare to beat Nepal in a thrilling Cricket World Cup League 2 match at Forthill. Nepal won with one ball to spare when the sides met at the same ground on Monday before beating the Netherlands two days later. They came close to a third straight win on Scottish soil, but fell two runs short in a chase of 323 in a game that swung back and forth throughout. A magnificent sixth one-day international hundred from Scotland captain Richie Berrington, along with an unbeaten 96 off just 62 deliveries from Michael Leask propelled the hosts to an imposing total. Nepal ultimately fell two runs short as debutant Mackenzie Jones took three wickets, while Leask and Safyaan Sharif claimed two apiece. Advertisement "I don't think I was ready for another close game like that," captain Richie Berrington said. "Delighted to get over the line. Credit to Nepal for the way they fought back and it's great to see the guys hold their nerve. "Mackenzie Jones took really important wickets and then Safyaan Sharif showed all his experience at the end. "It's always nice to contribute to the team's efforts and Leasky took the pressure off me." After Berrington won the toss, opener Charlie Tear played well for his 68 after George Munsey and Brandon McMullen both fell victim to the new ball. Advertisement His contribution, paired with his captain's fine effort, allowed Leask to attack in the final 10 overs. Scotland's number seven struck 12 fours and three sixes on his home ground in a brutal display of power hitting. Berrington's side then started in fine fashion with the ball, reducing Nepal to 34-3, including a first international wicket for Jones. Nepal rebuilt through Bhim Sharki (73) and Aarif Sheikh (39), but when they were removed by Leask and Jones, respectively, Scotland appeared to be in total control. However, a partnership of 105 for the seventh wicket between Dipendra Singh Airee (56) and Sompal Kami (67) brought Nepal right back into the contest. Advertisement Jones caught Singh Airee off Charlie Cassell's bowling and removed Kami himself as the ball followed the Essex seamer on his first Scotland outing. Nepal needed seven to win off the final over - bowled by Safyaan Sharif - and Jones was called into action again, taking a towering catch at long-leg to remove the dangerous Karan KC. It left Nepal needing five off three balls, but Sharif held his nerve to bowl Lalit Rajbanshi and win the game for Scotland. It was the seamer's 258th wicket for Scotland, taking him level with Majid Haq as his country's all-time leading wicket-taker.
Forbes
2 days ago
- Forbes
Conrad Anker And Norbu Tenzing Norgay On Today's Mt. Everest Mess
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay approaching 28,000 feet, Camp IX, Nepal, 28th May 1953. Mount Everest Expedition 1953. (Photo by George Lowe/Royal Geographical Society via Getty Images) In Part 1 of this interview series with Norbu Tenzing Norgay, son of the great climber Tenzing Norgay, and Conrad Anker, renowned mountaineer, we covered the state of Mt. Everest today as they see it, and USAID cuts to the American Himalayan Foundation. Here, in Part 2, we continue on with the commercialization of the Everest. Following are more edited excerpts from our conversation at The Explorers Club on Everest Day, May 29. Jim Clash: At the end of the 20th Century, you found the remains of climber George Mallory on the north side of Everest. Tell us about that. Conrad Anker: Our research expedition to find Mallory and [Sandy] Irvine was sponsored in 1999. I was wandering around on a plateau May 1, because going uphill without supplemental oxygen is tougher [laughs]. The expedition leader says, "Hey, what are you doing over there?" When the clouds came over, there it was. It was a dry, windy year, which had taken the snow off of where Mallory had come to rest. It was a very humbling moment. What Mallory had done showed what real exploration is. It's been 101 years now since he disappeared. George Leigh Mallory (1886-1824) was a team member of both the 1922 and 1924 Mount Everest Expeditions. He was selected by Colonel E.F. Norton, leader of the 1924 expedition, along with Sandy Irvine to attempt to reach the summit. Neither climber returned from the summit challenge, creating one of the most well-known 'mysteries' in climbing history (Photo by B. Stone/Royal Geographical Society via Getty Images) Clash: You've been to Everest many times over the years. How has it changed? Anker: The advent of commercial climbing was around 1990. I looked up to the mountain, aspired to climb it. The early climbers were my heroes. But now, the people up there don't understand what we climb for, the basic meaningfulness of the experience. It's become the opposite of what pure climbing is. Then there's the ridiculous Guinness Records, say the first person to the top carrying a toilet bowl [laughs]. Clash: You often climb without supplemental oxygen. Tourists on Everest use it, these days bottles and bottles of it. What's the difference between climbing with and without it? Anker: The difference is how much you are willing to suffer [laughs]. The downside is that I've lost brain cells up there [without O's]. It takes six months to recover. We're not meant to be up there that high. We're on borrowed time to get through it. I guess I was just stubborn, had to prove to myself that I could do it. Norbu Tenzing Norgay at The Explorers Club, New York, NY, May 29, 2025. Clash: Norbu, you mentioned your father earlier, how he would be appalled if he were still alive to witness the current mess on Everest. Anything less serious you can share about him? Norbu Tenzing Norgay: A lot of Indians worshipped my father. Our street would be packed with tourists who wanted to pay respects to him. He was an avid gardener, and would be outside taking care of plants with his back to the street. The people would be yelling, "Hey, gardener, gardener, is Mr. Tenzing home?" He'd just turn his head around and say, "No, no, he's gone to his office." Then they'd all go running to the office [laughs].
