On Japan's Ryukyu Islands, ancient tradition meets tropical paradise

National Geographic

3 days ago

As the legend goes, Japan's Ryukyu Islands were created by the goddess Amamikyo, who is believed to have descended from the heavens and into the sea, just off the southern coast of what is now known as the main island of Okinawa.
The Ryukyu Islands, located in the East China Sea, flourished for some 450-years as the semi-independent Ryukyu Kingdom. The islands served as a center of trade between Japan, China, and Southeast Asia until being officially designated a Japanese territory and renamed Okinawa Prefecture in 1879.
While the islands have become better known for their beautiful beaches and balmy subtropical weather, the soul and spirit of the former Ryukyu Kingdom can still be found in everything from the islanders intrinsic and spiritual connection to nature to its unique cultural and culinary identity. Scuba diving and snorkeling are two of the most popular activities in Okinawa. Photograph by Karen Kasmauski, Nat Geo Image Collection What to do in the Ryukyu Islands
The Ryukyu Islands are believed to be the birthplace of karate—a martial art that fuses the martial arts of China and Japan. Join a karate sensei at an Okinawan dojo or at the Okinawa Karate Kaikan.
Spend some time to exploring the Shikinaen Royal Gardens, which was once the private residence of the Ryukyuan royal family and a beautiful place to spend a leisurely morning or afternoon.
Sacred spaces, known as utakis, are tucked within the forests and nestled beneath banyan trees and sugar palms peppered across the archipelago, and while many of the island's utakis are not open to tourists, Sefa Utaki is an easy walk along stone path through the forest and is considered the most spiritual places to visit in the Ryukyu Islands.
Shuri Kinjo-cho stone road is a historical cobblestone pathway that winds its way through residential neighborhoods and onto Shuri Castle. The castle is under renovation, but it's still worthwhile to explore the grounds.
Ceramics and Ryukyu glass are two traditional crafts that you can find all across the islands. In downtown Naha, Tsuboya pottery district is a great place to shop, or head to Yachimun no Sato, an entire village dedicated to pottery. Naha's Tsuboya pottery district was the birthplace of Tsuboya-yaki, a style of Okinawan pottery. Photograph by Robert Gilhooly, Alamy Awamori (Okinawan sake) is considered to be Japan's oldest and first distilled beverage. Photograph by Chris Willson, Alamy
Of course scuba diving and snorkeling are two of the most popular pastimes in Okinawa. For hikers and adventure lovers, Yambaru National Park is not to be missed. Located on the northern end of Okinawa, this national park is designated as a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site, and offers lush mangrove forests, and an incredible variety of rare, endemic flora and fauna that can't be found anywhere else in the world.
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Spring: Late March, April, and May brings warm days and breezy nights, making this one of the best times of year to visit. Late spring is ideal for both aquatic activities and on-land adventures; visitors will find an abundance of activities from dragon boat races in May to jungle river-trekking.
Summer: June through August are the hottest and busiest months to visit the islands. June is the rainiest month of the year, and is also the start of typhoon season, which stretches into September, so be prepared for inclement weather.
Fall: With the humidity at bay and typhoon season a thing of the past, October and November are an ideal time to visit. Every October in Naha, the annual Tug-of-War Festival features two competing teams dressed in traditional Ryukyuan attire. Also in October, the Paantu Festival on Miyako-jima is a spiritual cleaning event; a supernatural spirit smears mud onto willing participants in an effort to bless them and bring them good luck in the year ahead.
Winter: The low season falls between December and February when the temperatures drop and the northernly winds blow their way across the islands. December through February can be chilly, especially at night. Yanbaru National Park, on the northern end of Okinawa, is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site. Photograph by Katsumi Tanaka, The Yomiuri Shimbun/AP Photo Lay of the land
There are 160 islands across the Okinawan Prefuncture, 49 of which are inhabited. The Ryukyu Islands are divided into three major island groups: Okinawa Islands, the Miyako Islands, and the Yaeyama Islands.
Okinawa Islands: The largest island in the archipelago is Okinawa Island, also known as Okinawa Honto. The prefectural capital, Naha, is located on Okinawa's main island. Smaller islands surrounding Okinawa include the Kerama Islands, which are beloved for their pristine white sand beaches, crystal clear water, and abundance of marine life. This island is also home to Yanbaru National Park.
Miyako Islands: The main island of Miyako is covered in sugarcane fields, and the islands here are surrounded by some of Okinawa's most expansive coral reefs. The consistency of the sand is akin to powder, and the water is such a distinct shade, it even has its own name: Miyako blue. These islands are particularly attractive for water sports like diving, snorkeling, and glass-bottom kayaking.
Yaeyama Islands: Practically hugging the Tropic of Cancer, the Yaeyama Islands are geographically closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan. The southernmost inhabited islands in the Okinawa archipelago are the Ishigaki, Taketomi, Hateruma, and Iriomote islands. Where to stay
Rosewood Miyakojima: Surrounded by sugarcane fields, Rosewood Miyakojima opened on Miyako Island in March 2025. This boutique hotel has taken great care to incorporate the local traditions and Ryukyuan culture into everything from the bar program and the architecture to the healing rituals at its Asaya Spa.
Halekulani Okinawa: A sprawling resort along one of Okinawa's best beaches, Halekulani Okinawa offers a wide range of excellent on-site eateries, bars, and a spa. Guests can participate in a variety of activities, from snorkeling and scuba diving to trips to Yambaru National Park that are guided by local naturalists.
Treeful Treehouse: On the northern reaches of Nago on the main island of Okinawa, Treeful Treehouse is a small and sustainable treehouse resort. This nature-centric stay offers a waterfall sauna and forest bathing river trekking experiences with one of the hotel guides. Traditional Okinawan cuisine, like agu pork and homemade Okinawan purple yam bread, are served by a bonfire and often accompanied by the hotel's resident goat, Donna.
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Hoshinoya Okinawa: Japanese luxury hotel chain Hoshinoya Okinawa is a seaside Ryukyu-style retreat that offers 100 oceanfront villas spread out among lush landscapes. Ryukyu Karate classes, sanshin guitar by the beach, and meditation sessions are offered daily in the beachfront activity studio. Soki soba noodles is an Okinawan specialty. Photograph by Kyoko Uchida, Alamy What to eat in Okinawa
From soba stalls to shikuwasa (a lime-like citrus), Okinawa boasts a wide range of regional dishes, roadside farmers markets, and restaurants bursting with local produce and dishes. Get your bearings at Makishi Public Market in Naha, where you'll find everything from fresh seafood to local delicacies like smoked irabu (snake) and a delicious drinkable peanut-based tofu called jimaji.
Within walking distance is Naha Kokusai Dori shopping street, a great place to experience 'senbero,' which is the Japanese equivalent of snacking and bar-hopping. For traditional Ryukyuan cuisine, Touyadokoro Fuan offers authentic dishes like bitter melon (goya champuru) stir-fry and peanut tofu, served on locally made pottery.
Sui Dunchi is a traditional Okinawan restaurant and great place to try Agu pork shabu shabu and Okinawan soba. Surrounded by waterfalls, Ufuya is set in a traditional villa and serves authentic hot pot and soba.
All across the islands, roadside markets are great places to try locally grown produce and Okinawan delicacies like deep-fried donuts (sata andagi), and shop for local souvenirs, too. It's worth it to also try awamori, known as the "spirit of Okinawa." It dates back to the 15th century, and today there are about 48 distilleries you can visit across the islands.
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Unlike mainland Japan, you'll find the tourism infrastructure in Okinawa is still developing, and outside a few select hotels, you might not find English spoken widely. It's best to make reservations for hotels, restaurants, and tours in advance of your visit. While tipping is not expected on the islands, come prepared with plenty of Japanese yen, as some places do not accept credit cards. Getting around
If you're traveling from the U.S. or the U.K., you will fly into Haneda Airport or Narita International Airport, before continuing on to the islands. It's a three-hour flight to Naha, Okinawa, from mainland Japan. While buses and taxis are available on the main island of Okinawa, it's highly advisable to rent a car, or make arrangements for transfer directly through your hotel in advance. Michelle Gross is a Beaufort, South Carolina-based travel journalist and photographer covering the cross-section of sustainable and ethical travel. Passionate about telling stories about interesting people and places around the world, follow her adventures on Instagram or check out her newsletter on Substack.