I walked the Royal Mile for hours. I didn't find a single Scot

The Herald Scotland

2 days ago

A brief stop at the Adam Smith statue to gather my bearings, and I'm off — set loose amidst a hodge-podge of pensioners, university students, and middle-aged mums on holiday.
The tourist is not a discrete creature. Wearing a hat and sunglasses, and perhaps a hip pack (or maybe a flask); they peer up and down the mile, phones held aloft, engrossed by such luminaries as the 'Heritage Clearance Shop' and the 'House of Scotland'.
Carlos & Martha were visting from Spain. (Image: Gordon Terris/Herald & Times) I speak to a Spanish couple in the shadow of St Giles' Cathedral.
'In the afternoon, we will go to the castle. Now, we have a city tour,' Carlos tells me
'It's very warm right now,' Martha says with a laugh.
The couple have just arrived in Edinburgh — and were surely expecting cooler weather.
'We're spending three days here, and then we'll travel around for the next week,' Carlos adds.
Higher up the Royal Mile, I speak to a group of French tourists.
'It's been good, but we've just arrived,' one man told me. 'We are going to the castle and Holyrood,' his female companion notes.
I suggest the couple trek up Arthur's Seat and take in the views high atop the ancient volcano.
This is met with enthusiasm. 'It's part of the plan,' I'm told.
'Are you with Time Magazine?' the man says with a wry smile as our photographer takes his picture.
'Close enough, mate,' I respond, 'close enough'.
Christina and Hubert travelled from Germany. (Image: Gordon Terris) Moving closer to Edinburgh Castle, I speak to Hubert and Christa, a couple visiting from Austria (not Germany, as I erroneously guessed, much to my embarrassment).
'We just arrived today,' Hubert says, 'We are going to see the castle. We got two tickets, it was hard work to get it online.
'Depending on the weather, we're planning on going hiking in the north and west — and comparing it to the city.'
At the gates of the castle, I speak to Adam and Megan, from Northern Ireland.
'We're having a look about at the minute, trying to figure out what we want to do,' Megan says, with partner Adam beside her. 'We've only arrived like half an hour ago,' he adds.
Bent was visiting his son Dan, who has lived in Scotland for 11 years. (Image: Gordon Terris) Next to the Northern Irish couple is Bent from Denmark, who is visiting his son Dan. A quick look, and it's clear they are related.
'We've seen the castle,' Bent says. 'It has an absolutely great view.'
Dan, who has lived in Scotland for 11 years, is acting as tour guide.
'We've been here ten times to visit him over the years,' Bent notes.
I'm at the top of the Royal Mile, and it's just gone 11 AM.
I speak to Kurt and Denise, a friendly couple from Kentucky. 'We just got here yesterday morning, and came from Linlithgow this morning,' says Kurt, who wears a blue University of Kentucky basketball jumper.
'We're going to the castle and have booked the Scottish Experience for the afternoon, and just have a wander around Old Town,' he says, clutching a Starbucks coffee in his right hand.
'How did you know we're from Kentucky? Are you a psychic?' Denise laughs. She's unaware of my college basketball knowledge, limited as it may be.
Edinburgh's phone booths aren't safe from tourist photoshoots. (Image: Gordon Terris) I feel transported to a beach near Melbourne as I speak to a jovial quartet of Aussies from Geelong. They're about to join a tour group led by a man with a large red umbrella — but have a minute to chat.
'It's been absolutely splendid weather,' David tells me. 'It hasn't rained in a month. We were shocked.'
'We're going on a Royal Mile tour this morning, and going to Edinburgh Castle this afternoon,' Simon adds.
Michaela says: 'It's a beautiful city. The streets are a bit more open than Glasgow, not as dark and Gotham City-like.'
'I thought St Giles Cathedral was just magnificent. Everywhere you look there's something to see,' notes Robin.
I bid farewell, as the group thanks the umbrella man for waiting.
Moving down the Royal Mile, I stop outside a red-brick pub on a bustling corner.
'I absolutely love Edinburgh,' says Misty from North Dakota, as husband Aaron nods in agreement. 'We've been at Holyroodhouse today, and the castle yesterday.'
Reem and Kurt are from Michigan. 'We've seen a lot of Reformation history,' says Reem, as the couple sits at a bus stop, waiting for an open top tour bus.
'We've seen Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle and St Andrews,' Kurt adds, listing a wide selection of all the major tourist sites.
'The weather is perfect,' Reem notes. 'It's not too hot and there's some sun.'
Cameras at the ready. (Image: Gordon Terris) I briefly consider hopping on the bus, but the £18 charge for a 70-minute roundtrip is far above my price point — and probably most Scots.
On my way back to Waverly, I turn down Cockburn Street. Lined with cozy boutiques and cafes, the avenue is less kitschy than the Royal Mile.
There, I speak to a Canadian family.
A middle-aged man tells me: 'We're here for ten days, and it's been good. We've been to Dundee as well.
'Well, which do you prefer?', I ask with a grin.
'Edinburgh,' he responds, perhaps unsurprisingly. 'We're going up to the castle now.'
Walking along the cobbled street, I stop to speak to Martin and Karen from Perth.
Finally, a Scottish couple!
No — they're from Perth, Australia.
Visiting their niece Leanne, the pair are in Edinburgh for just two days before heading south.
'I wish we were staying longer, it's magnificent,' Karen says. 'All the old buildings are lovely.'
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As I walk back towards the train station, away from the tourist traps, I begin to see signs that all is not what it seems.
A man lies huddled on some cardboard in a shopfront, an empty packet of Tangfastics and a beggars bowl in front of him.
This is the Edinburgh the visitors don't see — or perhaps, choose to ignore.
Tourism clearly provides a boon to Scotland's economy. In 2023, 109 million tourist visits generated £10.8 billion in revenue and led to the employment of 245,000 people.
Nowhere is this more apparent than Edinburgh, from the trinket shops of the Royal Mile to the scores of Harry Potter fan spots across the city.
Yet, this financial boost comes with a price.
I walked for hours without speaking to a single Scot in one of our country's largest and most historical cities.
And yet, the future of Edinburgh rests in the hands of those who care most about it.
To find those people, it seems one must take to the lanes, neighborhoods, tenements, and terraced houses.
That is where the real city takes its shape.