'Elevated Cruising' on the Avalon Artistry II in Bordeaux

Travel Weekly

2 days ago

When I first noticed Avalon Waterways' tagline, "Cruising Elevated," I didn't really give it a second thought.
But after spending four days on the just-revamped Avalon Artistry II for the line's first cruise in France's Bordeaux region, it was clear this was more than just a marketing slogan.
"It isn't just about being at a higher standard," said Avalon president Pam Hoffee. "It's about being different. And there are lots of different ways that Avalon is different."
From a fleetwide refresh of its Panorama Suite ships to its impeccable service, it was easy for me to see on this Bordeaux sailing how the Avalon experience is, indeed, elevated.
Opening the sliding windows in the Panorama Suites essentially turn the whole cabin into a balcony. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Avalon Waterways
The ships
Avalon has been working to set itself apart in the highly competitive world of river cruising for years. The first big distinction came more than a decade ago with the introduction of its Suite Ships, the only ones in the industry with floor-to-ceiling windows that slide to open a full 7 feet -- essentially turning the whole cabin into a balcony. That means extra space, regardless of the weather. It also enables the beds to face the view.
The Artistry II is one of the original Panorama Suite ships, launched in 2013. But after the refresh, which upgraded its contemporary furniture and decor in all public spaces, including the Sky Deck, it could have passed as a new ship. The ships have also gotten new bikes, including four e-bikes, in a better variety of sizes.
The Sky Deck aboard the Artistry II received new furniture as part of the ship's refresh, including comfortable couches. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Avalon Waterways
Things to do
Just before the pandemic, Avalon unveiled one of its most aggressive initiatives, the Active & Discovery excursions. They are just what the name implies, a wider selection of included activities that go beyond the must-see monuments or churches. Think hiking, biking, canoeing and cooking lessons.
Itineraries that are designated Active & Discovery have a guaranteed choice of three included activities a day (active, discovery or traditional). But the varied activities also extend across most itineraries.
In Bordeaux, for instance, one morning we did a 4-mile walk through the vineyards of Margaux, where our guide -- who also works in the fields -- told firsthand stories about life in the wine country. Another day, while some passengers took a traditional walking tour of Bordeaux and others visited the city's interactive wine museum, I took a day tour to the Atlantic coast, where we sampled the goods at an oyster farm before spending the afternoon at the beach town of Port Arcachon.
We also spent two full nights in Bordeaux, allowing ample time for evening exploration -- another focus of Avalon.
Other European itineraries include overnights in Vienna; Budapest; Amsterdam; Avignon, France; and Rudesheim, Germany.
The Panorama Lounge has floor-to-ceiling windows for expansive views. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Avalon Waterways
What's on the menu?
When I first started covering river cruises, I remember an industry veteran telling me that Avalon had a great product but that its food and wine was not quite up to par with its luxury competitors.
What a difference a few years make.
Avalon has not just embraced, but I would argue, has perfected, farm-to-table dining, with local wines and food that match where you are.
"Our chefs actually go out and get the bread that is served at breakfast and lunch," Hoffee said. "So, yes, they're baking some of the bread onboard. But people want to taste local products."
And in Europe, Avalon only pours European wines -- and ones that go with the destination. In Bordeaux, for instance, we sampled different wines from the region every day. There were also fresh, homemade soups each day. Dinners included options such as beef bourguignon, mussels, smoked pork with cabbage, even ham on a French baguette. And next year, Avalon will open a Sky Grill on the top deck for dinners under the stars.
While Hoffee said Avalon is a latecomer to Bordeaux, it's working again to set itself apart by partnering with My Bordeaux Tours for its excursions.
"We chose them because we liked that they were a small, women-owned business, and they just had great ideas and they had ideas that we thought would be things that our guests love," she said. "And so we're going to chateaus that not everybody goes to. ... We're going to little, small, family-owned wineries and really having an immersive experience."