Dynamic Sauvignon Blanc From Napa Valley

Forbes

21-05-2025

Gamble Ranch, planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Yountville, Napa Valley
Photo by Olaf Beckmann
Cabernet Sauvignon may be the signature grape of Napa Valley, but Sauvignon Blanc - despite representing only six percent of the area's plantings, as compared to 54% for Cabernet Sauvignon - is a regal counterpart. Yes, Chardonnay accounts for more than twice the acreage of Sauvignon Blanc, but over the past decade or so, a few dozen local producers have raised the bar with Sauvignon Blanc, resulting in higher quality and distinctive styles that have resulted in wines that rival the best examples from areas around the world.
Why is Napa Valley such an excellent area for Sauvignon Blanc, and how are producers working with this grape to create such memorable offerings? Tom Gamble of Gamble Estates in Oakville, recalls that he, 'fell in love with Sauvignon Blanc, before he fell in love with his wife.' He was not overly thrilled with some of the early examples of Sauvignon Blanc from California, preferring instead the classic offerings from France. 'I was captivated by the varietal style I discovered during trips to Europe in my late teens and early 20s, ' Gamble states. 'The aromatics of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs and subsequently the complexity I found among top-tier white Bordeaux during my travels influenced my early winemaking decisions, and that continues to this day.'
Sauvignon Blanc grapes in a vineyard of Gamble Estates, Napa Valley
Photo by Frank Gutierrez
At the Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, director of winemaking Kurtis Ogasawara sources much of the Sauvignon Blanc for the winery from the Oakville District. He explains the reasons for this, saying, 'Oakville's location in Napa Valley, roughly halfway up the valley, makes it a great location for growing Sauvignon Blanc. We get enough heat during the day to achieve full ripeness but also receive the influence of the morning fog which helps maintain freshness in our wines.'
Estate vineyard at Spottwoode, St. Helena, Napa Valley. The winery produces one of Napa Valley's most highly praised examples of Sauvignon Blanc.
Photo courtesy Spottswoode
For Spottswoode Vineyards, farther north in Napa Valley, winemaker Aron Weinkauf crafts a Sauvignon Blanc that is a blend of fruit from both Napa and Sonoma, with a slightly higher percentage from Napa. He notes that initially much of this wine was from Napa, but that some of the growers in the valley started to rip out the vines in favor of the more profitable Cabernet Sauvignon.
For Weinkauf, his belief is that the grapes he sources are from 100% organically farmed sites. 'We have spent time looking and working with many different vineyards, and over the years, I have very much focused on vineyards that have great natural vegetative balance.' He adds that he has particular favorite clones that he favors, and prefers to blend in about 10% Semillon, as this grape, 'is important for what we are stylistically seeking.'
While many Sauvignon Blanc producers age the wine in stainless steel tanks, more and more these days there are winemakers that prefer to age partly in oak casks as well. 'French oak is an important piece of our winemaking for these wines,' remarks Ogasawara. 'Barrel fermentation and battonage help with creating texture and mouthfeel that balances the natural acidity that is found in Sauvignon Blanc. For our new barrels incorporated in the blend, we select barrels that are respectful to the fruit and add complexity. Our goal with barrels is not to cover the fruit but help push more intensity and add texture to the wine.'
Tom Gamble, one of Napa Valley's leading producers of Sauvignon Blanc
Photo courtesy Gamble Estates
For Gamble, 'it was a 'very thoughtful decision because white wines can be overcooked and become flabby very quickly in our warm California climate. On the other hand, stainless steel allows no oxygen interaction with the wine, so you can get a really lean, austere wine because the vessel doesn't have the subtle micro-oxygenation that happens in the barrel. We wanted to have a more approachable mouthfeel without the consequences of over-oaking, so we've been strategic about how to approach that.
'After years of experimenting, we've found how to make a beautiful, complex, age-worthy Sauvignon Blanc in oak by being meticulous about using only the finest, tightly grained French oak barrels. We use a combo of cigar barrels (a Dagueneau invention, note that Dagueneau is a famed producer of Sauvignon Blanc-based wines in France, ed.) and barriques, with only 30% new French oak.'
So after all is said and done, what is the future of Sauvignon Blanc in Napa Valley? Gamble addresses this issue; 'I think there is more interest in high-quality Sauvignon Blanc than there used to be, but it remains a small fraction of Napa Valley's overall plantings. I think it's likely to remain a niche for us, simply because it's a less popular variety here than others like Cabernet Sauvignon. With that said, we will continue to cultivate and experiment with Sauvignon Blanc and would love to see its presence expand.'
Notes on recommended new releases of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc (aka Fumé Blanc with certain releases from Robert Mondavi):
Exterior of Inglenook, Rutherford, where one of Napa Valley's most stylish examples of Sauvignon Blanc is produced.
Chad Keig
Cuvaison
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa Valley, Los Carneros)
A blend of 93% Sauvignon Blanc and 7% Semillon. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Bright, light yellow; aromas of freshly cut grass, melon and a hint of basil. Medium-bodied with good acidity, this is clean and nicely balanced and has good varietal character. Straightforward, and a bit simple, this is quite drinkable and should be enjoyed fresh over the next two to three years. (88) $28
Sauvignon Blanc 'Méthode Béton 2023 (Napa Valley, Los Carneros)
The word 'béton' in French means 'concrete,' describing this wine being aged in concrete eggs. 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the estate in Carneros. Bright, medium-deep yellow; aromas of Bosc pear, red apple, citrus peel and elderflowers. Medium-full, this displays excellent varietal character, very good acidity, and a delicate mineral-driven finish that is very satisfying. Beautifully evocative, this would pair beautifully with shrimp or lighter shellfish. Enjoy over the next three to five years. (91) $50
Cliff Lede (Yountville)
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa Valley)
A blend of 77% Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Semillon; fermented in French oak barrels (86%) and stainless-steel tanks (14%). Bright, medium deep yellow; aromas of Bosc pear, spearmint and hints of basil and apricot. Medium-full, this combines beautiful ripeness and varietal purity with subtle wood notes and a lengthy, elegant finish with delicate notes of white spice. Nicely textured, this is a lovely wine! Enjoy over the next four to six years. (93)
Pine Ridge (Stags Leap District, Napa Valley)
Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc; about two-thirds of the fruit comes from Ryan's Vineyard near San Pablo Bay. Bright, medium deep yellow; aromas of freshly cut hay, a hint of pineapple and musk melon. Medium-bodied, with vibrant, lip-smacking acidity, this is a highly appealing Sauvignon Blanc that is fresh and lively, offering excellent varietal purity and inviting ripeness. Well-done! Enjoy tonight or over the next two to four years with foods ranging from grilled swordfish to Oriental chicken or sautéed bay scallops. (93) $45
Duckhorn
Sauvignon Blanc North Coast 2023
A blend of 91% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon; the grapes are from the North Coast appellation of California, including Sonoma County, Napa Valley, Lake County and Mendocino County. Bright, medium yellow; delicate aromas of hay and spearmint. There is tangy acidity and nice harmony, but overall, the wine is rather simple, as it lacks complexity. I miss the classic Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc from Duckhorn, which offered greater complexity and texture. Drink over the next two to three years. (88)
Silverado Vineyards
Sauvignon Blanc Miller Ranch 2023 (Yountville, Napa Valley, Estate Grown)
Bright, medium deep yellow; aromas of basil, chervil, melon and freshly cut grass. Medium-full, with impressive ripeness and depth of fruit. There are beautiful, classic Sauvignon Blanc flavors, along with very good acidity and notable persistence; the finish displays appealing notes of ginger and tarragon. Expressive and very well made, enjoy now and over the next four to six years. (93)
Brandlin
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Mount Veeder, Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc; aged for 11 months in 50% new French oak. Bright, light yellow; aromas of vanilla, tarragon and pear. Medium-full, this is ripe and well-structured; there is good acidity and notable persistence, as well as very good varietal character. I'd prefer a little less oak influence, but otherwise, this is a well-made wine; enjoy over the next two to four years. (91)
Malk Family Vineyards
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa Valley)
Fermented with wild yeast, barrel aged for nine months. Bright, medium deep yellow; aromas of freshly cut grass, basil, yellow flowers and a hint of mint. Medium-bodied with an elegant entry on the palate, very good persistence and tangy acidity. The finish is quite complex, with notes of tarragon and chervil. Given its herbal character, this demands strongly flavored seafood preparations, such as roast sea scallops or grilled swordfish. Enjoy over the next two to three years. (92)
Spottswoode
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa County 52%, Sonoma County 48%)
A blend of 93% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Semillon; vinified in a combination of stainless steel, French oak barrels, amphora and ceramic cuves. Bright, medium deep yellow; striking aromas of basil, hay bale, pear and delicate hints of lime and dill. Medium-full, with excellent depth of fruit, a rich mid-palate, significant persistence, very good acidity, notable varietal purity and outstanding harmony and complexity; this is a stellar offering if Sauvignon Blanc where the wood notes remain in the background, while adding texture. Enjoy now or over the next six to eight years; grilled swordfish or halibut would be an ideal match. (95)
Lail Vineyards (Angwin)
Sauvignon Blanc 'Georgia' 2023
100% Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from Yountville; fermented and aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak. Bright, medium deep yellow; expressive aromas of chervil, grapefruit, papaya and hints of acacia flowers and honey. Medium-full, with excellent concentration, this is a beautifully textured Sauvignon Blanc, with lively acidity, well-integrated wood notes and notable persistence; the finish offers notes of citrus peel and lime. Produced more in the style of a white Bordeaux than a Loire white, this is a Sauvignon Blanc lovers' Sauvignon Blanc. Enjoy over the next three to six years. (94)
Kelleher (St. Helena)
Sauvignon Blanc 'Block 21' 2023 (Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc sourced from hills in eastern Napa Valley. Bright, delicate yellow; appealing varietal aromas of pear, freshly cut grass, grapefruit and sunflowers. Medium-bodied, this has beautifully freshness, very good acidity and impressive persistence. Offering notable varietal character and alluring charm, this is a delightful young Sauvignon Blanc to be enjoyed now and over the next four to six years. (92)
Double Diamond (Rutherford)
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa Valley)
Vinted and bottled by Schrader Cellars. A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon; the grapes are sourced from To Kalon vineyard in Oakville, as well as the Wappo Hill vineyard in the Stags Leap District. Fermented in oak barrel (73%) and tank (23%); aged in steel (84%) and oak (16%). Medium-deep yellow; aromas of pear, a hint of coriander and hay bale. Medium-full to full-bodied (14.5% alcohol), this is a richly textured Sauvignon Blanc with excellent ripeness, significant persistence and very good acidity. The wood notes are restrained, there is excellent complexity, and the finish displays notes of basil and yellow pear. Very impressive, this has enough concentration to pair with roast pork or spaghetti carbonara. Enjoy over the next five to seven years. (94)
Stewart Cellars (Oakville)
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Oakville, Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard in Oakville. Bright, delicate yellow; very pretty aromas of tangerine, lime, melon and orange zest. Medium-bodied, with excellent freshness, very good acidity and harmony. This is a Sauvignon Blanc that focuses on fruit rather than herbal qualities. Enjoy over the next two to four years. (91)
Beaulieu Vineyard (Rutherford)
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc; aged for five months in new French oak. Bright, delicate yellow; aromas of freshly cut grass, melon and hints of grapefruit and basil. Medium-bodied, there is good acidity and freshness, along with very fine varietal purity. Overall, the wine is well-balanced, clean and made in a subdued manner that would not overwhelm food pairings such as sautéed scallops or shrimp. Enjoy over the next two to four years. (90)
Robert Mondavi Winery (Oakville, Napa Valley)
Fumé Blanc The Estates 2022 (Oakville, Napa Valley)
Just about every producer in Napa Valley owes a great deal of debt to Robert Mondavi, especially regarding Sauvignon Blanc. When Mondavi produced his initial releases from his now-iconic winery in Oakville on Highway 29 in Napa Valley, he labeled his Sauvignon Blanc as Fumé Blanc, a nod to Pouilly-Fumé and other famous Sauvignon Blanc-based wines from France's Loire Valley. Today, the winery labels some of their wines from this varietal as Sauvignon Blanc, while continuing the use of the term Fumé Blanc for their finest examples.
A blend of 87% Sauvignon Blanc and 13% Semillon, all from Oakville vineyards. Bright, medium-deep yellow; enticing aromas of mango, Anjou pear, orange rose and a hint of pine. Medium-full, with excellent ripeness. There is noteworthy texture along with outstanding varietal purity. There is excellent persistence, very good acidity and significant length in the finish, which offers delicate notes of grapefruit, melon and a hint of basil. Wonderful complexity, this is very well made and is quite stylish. Enjoy with Oriental cuisine (sweet and sour pork would be ideal) over the next five to seven years. (93)
Gamble Estates (Oakville, Napa Valley)
Sauvignon Blanc Yountville 2024 (Yountville, Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc from two clones, including Musqué, which brings beautiful aromatics. Barrel aged on the lees for six months; 15% new oak. Bright, delicate yellow; with a touch of CO2, which is normal for such a young wine. Aromas of freshly cut grass, Bosc pear, lilacs and a hint of passion fruit. Medium-full, this offers superb complexity and excellent varietal purity in a restrained, understated fashion; there is a wonderful cleanliness to the wine. There is zesty acidity, notable persistence and excellent overall harmony. The finish is lengthy and pure, with subtle notes of basil and spearmint. This is so appealing now, but I can't wait to try it again over the next several months and years, as it reveals great complexities. Peak in six to eight years. Lovely food wine, especially with sautéed scallops, Oriental pork or delicately spiced Thai chicken. (95)
Gamble Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023
Bright, medium deep yellow, lovely aromas of basil, orange zest, golden poppy and a hint of spearmint. Medium full with ideal ripeness, good acidity, excellent persistence, and lovely varietal purity. Offering beautiful typicity and harmony, this is seamless, and displays a sensual refinement in its presence. Enjoy over the next five to seven years. (94)
Acumen (Napa)
Sauvignon Blanc 'Peak' 2023 (Atlas Peak, Napa Valley)
100% Sauvignon Blanc from the winery's estate Attelas vineyard on Atlas Peak. Bright, medium yellow; aromas of honeydew melon, freshy cut hay, dried yellow flowers and a hint of basil. Quite rich in the palate, this displays excellent varietal character, and has very good acidity and notable persistence; the finish has notes of passionfruit and mint; the wood notes add texture but remain in the background. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (93)
Inglenook (Rutherford)
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Rutherford, Napa Valley)
A blend of 76% Sauvignon Blanc, 24% Semillon; aged in stainless steel tanks (40%) and 60% French oak, of which 21% is new; eight months of aging sur lie. Bright, medium yellow; lovely aromatics of melon, spearmint, lime and elderflowers. Medium-full, there is notable ripeness, very good acidity, excellent persistence and a light flintiness in the finish. There is outstanding typicity and beautiful texture as well as superb harmony and freshness. Pair this with any number of dishes, ranging from sautéed scallops and grilled shrimp to ceviche, and enjoy over the next three to six years. (94)