logo
How the grandeur of Scotland's capital began with a rock

How the grandeur of Scotland's capital began with a rock

The National27-05-2025

In this penultimate column of the city series, I will once again show how, like all our cities, Edinburgh developed from a small settlement to grandeur through the trinity of a fortification, religious institutions and royal patronage.
Regular readers will know that as a history writer, I very much depend on the work of national and local historians. There have been too many to mention for Edinburgh, but its history has the same problem that I have found in my researches on most of Scotland, namely that ancient records were stolen and destroyed by English invaders.
Although it actually only became the capital after numerous other places, such as Stirling and Dunfermline, had their time as the seat of government, Edinburgh has been at the centre of Scotland's history for many centuries.
READ MORE: Did Robert the Bruce destroy this Scottish city's castle?
It owes that prominence largely to luck. Some 340 million years ago in the midst of the Carboniferous period, Edinburgh was home to massive seismic activity. Arthur's Seat was a volcano that formed the landscape and also left a volcanic plug – Castle Rock. Enlightenment scientist James Hutton (1726-1797), known as the 'father of geology', first proved that Salisbury Crags and the surrounding area were volcanic in origin.
Castle Rock mostly stands some 260ft (80m) above the city centre, with its summit of about 430ft (130m) high. Erosion, especially during the last Ice Age, left the cliffs to the north, south and west of the rock standing sheer while the 'crag and tail' from what is now the esplanade runs eastward down the Royal Mile. It is an unusual formation which has few similar examples elsewhere.
According to archaeological finds, the first human inhabitants came to the Edinburgh area around 8500 BCE and like elsewhere in Scotland they were probably hunter-gatherers who immigrated over many decades from the continent via what is now England. Archaeological excavations have proven that Castle Rock was used as a fortification as far back as 900 BCE. It has been in human use ever since, which makes it the longest continuously inhabited place in Britain.
It cannot be said with certainty but we can speculate that the Edinburgh area was first settled permanently during the Iron Age as a centre for a tribe who became known as the Votadini. Their capital was at the Traprain Law hill fort in East Lothian and their domination of the south-east of Scotland was recorded by the Roman writer Ptolemy who was writing in Greek and therefore knew them as the Otadini.
This tribe, which spoke an ancient Brythonic-Celtic tongue, was very much in control of the whole Edinburgh area when the Romans arrived in the first and second centuries CE. They built a fort at Cramond at the confluence of the River Almond and the Firth of Forth to the north-west of the city.
This fort was linked to the Roman settlements as far south as the River Tyne by a road known as Dere Street, which was constructed in 79-81 CE on the orders of Gnaius Julius Agricola, the governor of the Roman province of Britannia.
Amazingly it was less than 30 years ago that proof emerged of the importance of Cramond to the Romans. In 1996, ferryman Robert Graham spotted a large sculpture lying in the mud and the following year archaeologists from the City of Edinburgh Council and the National Museums of Scotland excavated what became known as the Cramond Lioness.
The well-preserved sculpture was made of white sandstone that had been imported to Cramond.
The best theory is that it was a grave marker for a Roman officer, although how it became lodged in the mud beside the Cramond Ferry steps is not known.
ACCORDING to Historic Environment Scotland's website: 'The lioness, carved from a single block of sandstone, is 1.5m long, and depicts a crouching lioness with her paws on a naked man's shoulders and his head in her mouth.
'On the plinth, two snakes emerge from below the lioness's belly. Pieces with a similar subject matter, of carnivores devouring prey, are common throughout the Roman Empire, and are interpreted as symbolising the destructive power of death.'
As shown by a plethora of archaeological finds, the Votadini seem to have co-existed with the Romans for 300 years and more, but when the Roman Empire abandoned Britain around 410 CE, the Votadini gradually moved their headquarters from Traprain Law to the Castle Rock from where the Gododdin people, descendants of the Votadini, ruled over the eastern part of what is now the Lothians.
Where did the name of the city come from? Edwin was a seventh-century king of the lost ancient kingdoms of Bernicia and Deira which joined together to form Northumbria that stretched from the Firth of Forth as far south as York.
As I have written before, Edwin was recognised by the Venerable Bede and other chroniclers as the most powerful king on the island of Great Britain.
Some historians say he came north to the Forth and established a fortress town, a burgh, which was named after him. Its Gaelic name, Dùn Èideann, 'the fort of Edwin', confirms that etymology.
Recent scholars say the whole area was named Din Eidyn in the Brythonic tongue and predated Edwin but the main evidence for that derivation comes from the epic poem Y Goddodin and it most certainly is not factual. The earliest written reference to a fort on the rock is seen in that poem, which was written much later but places it as a residence in the late sixth century of Mynyddog the Magnificent, the Goddodin warrior who died fighting the Angles at the Battle of Catraeth, usually identified as Catterick, although we do not know the exact location or date of the battle.
For hundreds of years, the history of Edinburgh was the history of its castle on the rock but as with the rest of Scotland we have no written records of what happened in Edinburgh in the Dark Ages.
We know the settlement expanded slowly but surely beside the fortification of Edwin's burgh and managed to avoid most of the upheavals that accompanied the establishment of the new kingdom of Alba after King Kenneth mac Alpin united the Scoti of Dalriada and the Picts of Fortriu in the 840s.
READ MORE: Bouncer-turned-filmmaker's Glasgow gangland drama becomes surprise smash TV hit
A succession of kings of the Scoti and Picts had their capitals north of the Forth and as I always point out that the Kingdom of England did not originate until nearly a century later under Athelstan, termed in his own time as King of the English.
Athelstan invaded Scotland in 934 and may have campaigned in the Lothians, but he went south empty-handed and in the final years of the first millennium the Scots campaigned militarily to push the English out of the Lothians and Scottish Borders, a victory that was finally achieved in the Battle of Carham in 1018 when King Malcolm II of Alba and King Owen (the Bald) of Strathclyde united to defeat the Northumbrian forces.
The first castle on the rock was almost certainly a wooden motte-and-bailey construction, but it was not until royal patronage and religious institutions came to Edwin's Burgh that the conditions were met for expansion.
During the reign of Malcolm III, Canmore, a royal residence was established on Castle Rock though he retained Dunfermline as his capital. His queen, Saint Margaret, was living in the residence when she was told of the death of her husband and their son, Edward, killed while fighting the English at the Battle of Alnwick on November 13, 1093. Margaret died of grief just three days after the battle.
Their other son, Edgar, briefly ruled over Scotland and seems to have built some sort of castle on the Rock because he is recorded as dying there in 1107. His brother Alexander I succeeded him and may have developed the castle, though he preferred Stirling Castle as his court.
It was the sixth and youngest of what Nigel Tranter called the 'Margaretsons' who really endowed Edinburgh. A great revolutionary monarch who devised the feudal system and transformed the governance of Scotland, David I gained the throne in 1124 and immediately and significantly developed Edinburgh Castle as a royal residence.
The evidence for that assertion can be found inside the Castle to this day in the form of the austerely beautiful St Margaret's Chapel erected around 1130 by the king as a shrine to his saintly mother. It is the oldest and, in my opinion, the most beautiful building in Edinburgh.
He formally made Edinburgh one of his first royal burghs in 1124 – personally, I thought the city could have made more of the 900th anniversary last year. Whether or not he did so as the result of a legendary encounter with a charging stag, David founded Holyrood Abbey in 1128 and the king moved frequently between the Castle and the royal lodgings at Holyrood, thus creating the Royal Mile alongside which Edinburgh grew steadily.
That part of the modern Royal Mile we call Canongate was then a separate settlement and indeed became a burgh in its own right when King David issued his great charter of Holyrood Abbey in 1143, giving the Abbot secular control of the burgh.
READ MORE: National park supporters urge ministers not to scrap Galloway proposal
It must always be remembered that Leith, now very much part of Edinburgh, developed as a port even as Edinburgh was growing. According to The Story of Leith written by John Russell and published in 1922, there were actually two Leiths, North and South, and again it was King David who intervened in the port's history: 'Besides founding the Abbey of Holyrood, David I richly endowed it with lands and other gifts. In the Abbey's great charter of 1143 there is engrossed a long list of the many possessions bestowed upon it by its royal founder, and among these are the lands of North Leith and that part of South Leith which now extends from the present Coalhill to the Vaults.
'These lands, along with those of South Leith, then formed part of a wide area round the mouth of the river known as Inverleith, and are designated in the Abbey charter 'that part of lnverleith which is nearest the harbour.' These words would seem to show that even at this early date Leith had started on its career as a port.
The shortened form of the name, Leith, early became specially applied to the town, while the longer form, Inverleith, like the name Inveresk at Musselburgh, was restricted to the lands farther up the river.'
King David is known to have held Parliaments in the Castle in the latter years of his reign, and with his residence in the city, Edinburgh had its first spell as 'capital' of Scotland.
David's successor but one, King William I, the Lion or Lyon, officially lived in the Castle but spent a lot of time in Haddington – a mistress, perhaps? After his defeat at the 1174 Battle of Alnwick, King William was captured and imprisoned by Henry II of England who imposed the humiliating Treaty of Falaise on William that included transferring Edinburgh Castle to English control. Henry also nominated the Scottish king's wife, Ermengarde de Beaumont, and the Castle was her dowry.
Find out next week about Edinburgh's role in the Wars of Independence.

Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

Canadian space firm unveils new Edinburgh office
Canadian space firm unveils new Edinburgh office

The National

time5 hours ago

  • The National

Canadian space firm unveils new Edinburgh office

PCI Geomatics, a leading firm in Earth observation, has opened its new office at the Future's Institute in the Scottish capital as it aims to become a key player in Scotland's space industry. PCI Geomatics, operating under the name Catalyst, gathers and analyses information about Earth's physical, chemical, and biological systems using remote sensing technologies and uses the data it collects to provide climate-related information. The Toronto-headquartered firm has more than 40 years of experience and joins more than 180 other companies that are already contributing to Scotland's satellite design and manufacturing industry. READ MORE: Scottish Government 'short-changed by £1bn' by Rachel Reeves, Finance Secretary says Business Minister Richard Lochhead welcomed the news as he said Scotland's space sector has grown at a 'phenomenal pace'. He said 'Scotland is well on the way to becoming a European leader in the space sector. PCI's arrival adds to Edinburgh's considerable reputation as a 'data capital' and takes us closer to our ambition to capture £4 billion of the global space market. 'The number of space-related organisations based in Scotland rose by 25% within a year, with the sector's total income increasing by 65%, demonstrating the phenomenal pace of growth and scale of opportunity before us. 'This is why the Scottish Government appointed its first ever Space Envoy, Daniel Smith, last year who is boosting Scotland's global standing and helping businesses forge strategic partnerships and identify new opportunities.' PCI said its business aligns 'strongly with Scotland's growing reputation' in space-enabled applications which includes more than 30 companies dedicated to observing and protecting Earth from space. The company is now recruiting for multiple roles in Scotland. PCI has also joined the industry body Space Scotland and participated in a recent Scottish Earth Observation showcase at the British Embassy in Denmark. President and CEO of PCI, June McAlarey, said she is excited to see the business expand into Scotland. She said: 'Scotland's rising profile in the global space economy has been unmistakable. When exploring locations to complement our Canadian headquarters, the UK quickly stood out as a strategic gateway to Europe and the Middle East. 'We now have a growing team across the UK and are excited to expand our Scottish office in the coming weeks.' Dr. Craig Brown, investment director at the UK Space Agency, also welcomed the news as he said Earth observation technology is vital to keeping the world safe. He said: 'Scotland's space sector attracts significant levels of private investment and is playing an important role in unlocking the value of space data for the wider economy. 'We welcome the presence of international companies like PCI as a key driver of innovation, expertise and creation. 'This new development supports our commitment to grow the space economy across the whole of the UK and to advance Earth observation technology, which is a vital tool for protecting our planet.'

Edinburgh to host UK's most powerful supercomputer, Rachel Reeves announces in UK Government spending review
Edinburgh to host UK's most powerful supercomputer, Rachel Reeves announces in UK Government spending review

Scotsman

time8 hours ago

  • Scotsman

Edinburgh to host UK's most powerful supercomputer, Rachel Reeves announces in UK Government spending review

Edinburgh will become home to the UK's most powerful supercomputer, with funding of up to £750 million, Chancelloer Rachel Reeves has announced in the UK Gvernment's spending review. Sign up to our daily newsletter Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to Edinburgh News, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... Plans for the £800 million Exascale computer to be based at Edinburgh University were first announced by the last UK government in October 2023. But soon after taking office, the new Labour government shelved the project, saying no money had ever been allocated for it. However the project has now been reinstated as part of the government's drive to maximise the potential of artificial intelligence. Rachel Reeves delivering the spending review in the Commons | screenshot Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad The government said the supercomputer would give scientists across the UK access to computing power found in only a handful of other nations and put Edinburgh at heart of the UK's plans to unlock a decade of national renewal through AI. It follows a commitment by Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer to an extra £1 billion of funding to increase the UK's AI computer power 20-fold. The new supercomputer will vastly exceed the capacity of the UK's current national supercomputer, ARCHER2. Ms Reeves said: "We are investing in Scotland's renewal, so working people are better off. Strong investment in our science and technology sector is part of our Plan for Change to kickstart economic growth, and as the home of the UK's largest supercomputer, Scotland will be an integral part of that journey." Scottish Secretary and Edinburgh South MP Ian Murray welcomed the announcement. He said: "This is a landmark moment and will place Scotland at the forefront of the UK's technological revolution. The £750 million investment in Edinburgh's new supercomputer places Scotland at the cutting edge of computing power globally. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad "This will see Scotland playing a leading role in creating breakthroughs that have a global benefit - such as new medicines, health advances, and climate change solutions." And Professor Sir Peter Mathieson, principal and vice-chancellor of Edinburgh University said: "This significant investment will have a profoundly positive impact on the UK's global standing, and we welcome the vast opportunities it will create for research and innovation. "Building on the University of Edinburgh's expertise and experience over decades, this powerful supercomputer will drive economic growth by supporting advancements in medicine, bolstering emerging industries and public services, and unlocking the full potential of AI." Edinburgh East Labour MP Chris Murray said Edinburgh being made the home of the UK supercomputer was 'an absolutely brilliant announcement for our city'. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad He said: 'They say data is the new oil - with this new capability, it means Edinburgh has a bright future ahead. The UK Government committing such a huge amount of money to Edinburgh will be transformational for this city. 'This shows the difference a Labour government can make. Along with my Edinburgh Labour MP colleagues Tracy Gilbert and Scott Arthur, and of course Scottish Secretary Ian Murray, I have been ensuring our city's voice is heard at the heart of government - something only Labour MPs can do. And today that has meant a massive investment in our city's economic future. 'Edinburgh will now lead the way in the UK and the world on data innovation and computing, the big industries of the future, thanks to this decision.' Edinburgh West Lib Dem MP Christine Jardine said: "I am delighted for Edinburgh University that the Government has listened to the clear strong case we have made to confirm the location of the supercomputer in our city. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad "Edinburgh University's global reputation makes it the perfect place to maximise the development of AI and related technologies. "This project should never have been in any doubt and I am pleased that the Government has finally seen sense."

Major Hollywood star spotted in Scots city amid filming for blockbuster movie
Major Hollywood star spotted in Scots city amid filming for blockbuster movie

Scottish Sun

time11 hours ago

  • Scottish Sun

Major Hollywood star spotted in Scots city amid filming for blockbuster movie

The secretive project has been filming in the city since the beginning of June A MAJOR Hollywood star has been spotted filming for a blockbuster movie in a Scottish city. Director JJ Abrams was snapped speaking to crew members on the movie set in Edinburgh. Advertisement 7 Director JJ Abrams was spotted in Edinburgh this morning Credit: Les Gallagher 7 He was spotted speaking to crew members on the film set Credit: Les Gallagher 7 Several streets in the capital have been transformed for the upcoming film Ghostwriter Credit: Andrew Barr It's understood film crews descended on the capital to work on the upcoming sci-fi flick Ghostwriter. Acting legend Samuel L. Jackson is tipped for a key part in the movie. The motion picture is also set to star Wednesday lead Jenna Ortega, Sex Education's Emma Mackey and Top Gun: Maverick actor Glen Powell. The secretive project has been filming in the city since the beginning of June, with several streets around the city transformed into a film set. Advertisement The Oz Bar on Candlemaker Row is one of the pubs to get a makeover. A number of props have also been spotted on set such as advertising boards and what appears to be vending machines. Filming locations include Advocate's Close, Borthwick's Close, Fleshmarket Close, Mary King's Close, Old Assembly Close and Parliament Square. JJ Abrams, who is behind hits like Cloverfield and the recent Star Wars films, was spotted in Edinburgh directing some scenes and speaking to crew members this morning. Advertisement He was sporting some dark sunglasses and a khaki quilted jacket. Glen Powell's stunt double also appears to be at the shoot. Scots Lord of the Rings megafan scales Ben Nevis in full movie armour Production is set to continue until Friday, June 13. Warner Bros trucks have also been parked up on streets across the city. Advertisement Crews are then set to head to Glasgow, with filming for the flick expected to start over the weekend and will run into next week. However, it means that a number of roads will be closed throughout the city for days as a result. Almost 70 roads will be shut and pedestrians will be banned from moving through the streets during "action", the council says. The closures are being implemented by Glasgow City Council, which has warned that bus and taxi lanes will also be impacted, with a suspension in place. Advertisement 7 Streets across Edinburgh have been transformed for the film Credit: Andrew Barr 7 A number of props have also been spotted on set from advertising boards and what appears to be vending machines Credit: Andrew Barr 7 Film crews descended on the capital to work on the upcoming sci-fi flick Ghostwriter Credit: Andrew Barr 7 Warner Bros trucks have also been parked up on streets across the city Credit: Andrew Barr

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into the world of global news and events? Download our app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store