logo
London's Design Museum takes a deep dive into our love affair with swimming

London's Design Museum takes a deep dive into our love affair with swimming

The Guardian26-03-2025

'The first thing to say is that I'm a terrible swimmer,' says Amber Butchart, curator of a new exhibition on swimming that opens at the Design Museum in London this week. Growing up, school swimming lessons were 'horrible, traumatic' – the cold water, the humiliation, the scrutiny from teenage boys. But something shifted when she moved to Margate 10 years ago and discovered the joy of swimming in the resort's huge tidal pool, which was built in the 1930s. 'This sounds quite pretentious, but it's this idea of becoming one with the horizon,' says Butchart. 'It's almost like an existential feeling of the vastness of the world and being physically a part of that when you're immersed in water. It's transformational.'
The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.
Splash! A Century of Swimming and Style explores our enduring love affair with swimming, from Britain's lido boom of the 1920s and 30s to the Mermaidcore trend which has been all over TikTok in recent years. Among the 200 exhibits are the first Olympic solo swimming gold medal won by a British woman, a selection of men's Speedos from the 1980s and the iconic red swimsuit worn by Pamela Anderson in Baywatch. Though the exhibition tells the story of swimming through the lens of design and fashion, Butchart was keen to avoid the kitschy stereotypes of 'bathing beauties' that often accompany the theme, and to take a deeper dive into the politics of the swimming pool.
'It's transformational.' Amber Butchart photographed at the Walpole Bay Tidal Pool in Margate. Photograph: Alun Callender
'Obviously it's a show about design and architecture and fashion, but there are so many social histories, and also wider global histories, that I wanted to try to get in as well, because this idea of outdoor swimming, the sea as redemptive, this is not the case for everyone. There are many communities in Britain that aren't taught to swim for various reasons. And I'm in Kent, where we have people crossing [the Channel] in small boats which is this enormous tragedy. The sea is not a sanctuary for everyone.'
Butchart first had the idea for the exhibition during the pandemic, when indoor pools were closed and her daily swims in the sea became a ritual to be cherished, something 'life affirming'. Margate was one of the first British resorts to promote sea bathing as a health cure in the 1700s, so it seems fitting that this is where the story begins. The oldest item on display is a knitted municipal bathing costume that would have been rented to swimmers by the Margate Corporation (the logo is fetchingly stamped on the front) in the 1920s. 'What swimwear does is it allows access to public space,' says Butchart. 'You can't go swimming in a public space if you don't have a swimsuit. So it's immediately getting into those questions of who has access and who is not given access.'
Clockwise from top left: The iconic red swimsuit worn by Pamela Anderson in Baywatch; Rebirth swimwear designed for non-binary and gender non-conforming people; a 1920s Margate Corporation bathing costume; Olympic swimmer Alice Dearing wearing a Soul Cap swim cap. Photographs: Zuma Press/Alamy; Colectivo Multipolar; Luke Hayes/Design Museum; Soul Cap
Butchart, a fashion historian who began her career working in a vintage clothing store, says she has an abiding love for 1950s swimwear, but adds: 'I was very aware that so many stories about swimwear in the past promoted particular types of bodies and excluded other types of bodies. So, I wanted to make this a much more expansive show.'
One of the items on display is the swimsuit worn by Alice Dearing at the Tokyo Olympics. Dearing was the first black woman to represent Team GB in an Olympic swimming event and co-founder of the Black Swimming Association. In 2022 she collaborated with Soul Cap, a company that creates swim caps for people with afro hair, locs and braids. The caps were banned from the Olympics in 2021 by the International Swimming Federation on the basis that they didn't follow the 'natural form of the head'. The decision was reversed the following year.
As well as examining the social and cultural history of swimming, the exhibition will showcase contemporary designers and architects who are coming up with solutions to improve access to swimming spaces, whether it be the UK's first beach huts purpose-built for people with disabilities in Boscombe, or a range of swimwear for non-binary, trans and gender non-conforming people. There will also be a short film from Subversive Sirens, a Minnesota-based synchronised swimming team whose mission statement is 'black liberation, equity in swimming, radical body acceptance and queer visibility'.
Accessible beach huts in Boscombe, designed by ABIR Architects. Photograph: ABIR Architects
Not only does the exhibition look at what we wear in the water, but it also charts the rise of the seaside as a place for showing off the latest fashions – the pier and the promenade doubling up as an outdoor catwalk. 'One of the things I love about living at the seaside is that people take more risks with what they're wearing,' says Butchart. 'The sartorial rules can be broken.' One of her favourite items on display is a pair of 1930s 'beach pyjamas'. Pioneered by Coco Chanel, this trend flourished in fashionable French resorts such as Juan-les-Pins and Deauville, eventually making its way across the Channel. 'It was the first time women were really allowed to wear trousers in public for the first time,' says Butchart.
The rise of beachwear coincided with the golden age of lido building, with art deco wonders such as the Jubilee Pool in Penzance popping up in coastal locations around the UK. The magnificent pool – the largest surviving saltwater lido in the country – reopened in 2016 following an extensive community campaign. Many of our public baths and lidos have not been so fortunate.
The art deco Jubilee Pool in Penzance, the largest saltwater lido in the UK.
The timeline of the exhibition plots the rise of overseas package holidays, the ensuing decline of many British seaside resorts, and the environmental issues facing open water swimmers today. And while the solutions to some problems belong firmly in the 21st century – the ongoing search for alternatives to fossil fuel-derived synthetics for manufacturing swimwear, for example – for others, we must look to the past. Butchart believes that the connection between the seaside and wellbeing that made resorts such as Margate, Brighton and Scarborough fashionable in the 1800s could prove to be their salvation. She points to an initiative in her adopted home town of Margate – a free community beach sauna in a recreated Victorian bathing machine – as a perfect example of a 'full circle moment'.
From the golden age of lidos to sewage in our seas, kiss-me-quick to queer visibility, the scope of the exhibition is as expansive as those horizon views from the Margate tidal pool. Butchart hopes that visitors will find it thought-provoking. But most of all, she hopes it will inspire them: 'If people leave the exhibition thinking 'I just really want to go for a swim', that would be lovely.'
Splash! A Century of Swimming and Style is at the Design Museum from 28 March until 17 August

Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

Stella McCartney is tested for killer disease with sister on same day every year
Stella McCartney is tested for killer disease with sister on same day every year

Daily Mirror

time28 minutes ago

  • Daily Mirror

Stella McCartney is tested for killer disease with sister on same day every year

Sir Paul McCartney and his late wife Linda's youngest daughter Stella speaks on the heartbeaking loss of her mum nearly three decades ago Fashion designer Stella McCartney is urging women to not ignore free NHS breast cancer checks after opening up about losing her mother to the disease in a rare interview. The daughter of Beatles legend Sir Paul was 25-years-old when she lost her mother Linda, aged just 53, in 1998 - three years after she was diagnosed with the illness. ‌ But in a new insight into her private life, Stella, 53, has revealed how she goes for mammogram screenings with her trusted eldest sister, Mary, 55, and says it is vital other women do the same. ‌ Her warning comes just a week after British pop singer Jesse J, 37, shocked fans by revealing she had been diagnosed with early stage breast cancer after a period of 'in and out of tests." The Bang Bang star, real name Jessica Cornish, is now posting regular updates to her 13.9 million Instagram followers so they can keep up to date with her progress. Urging women to get tested, Stella said: "I love the idea of going with my sister and my best friends on International Women's Day every year. ‌ "I think it is a nice way to celebrate that process. Go and get your mammograms. My sister is my best friend. It is like no other." Stella has previously described how her mother's death was 'the most difficult thing I've ever had to encounter', and says the feeling of loss is with her every day. But although her mother passed away 27 years ago, Stella says the pain does not get any easier especially as she watches her own children - sons Miller, 20, Beckett, 17, and daughters Bailey, 18, and Reiley, 15, - grow up not knowing who their grandmother was. ‌ She said: "My mum didn't see my kids. I was just 28. It is the greatest loss, especially when you become a mother. I was so young and passing down motherhood, what a beautiful gift. It is just not you not having her and you losing her it is them not knowing her too. Like "She didn't know you". ‌ Stella recently praised Beyonce's mother Tina Knowles for speaking out about her own breast cancer scare. She said: "I think it was courageous for you (Tina Knowles) to share your story and I wish more people would share it. I wish more people would have shared that what when my mother was alive, hoping that she would still be alive. So I commend you for talking about it. Everyone should get mammograms. It is all about prevention. It is so important. "I have spent a lot of time at a breast centre in Kettering and I highlight this disparity in breast cancer mortality. I ask so many questions and some don't know they can get free screenings." ‌ Today, Stella says her mother Linda continues to guide her in the way she conducts her family life with husband Alasdhair Willis and in the way she runs her business which saw her receive a CBE from King Charles in 2023 for her services to fashion. The designer - who takes after her mother in her love of animals and refusal to eat meat and uses no leather or fur in creations for her eponymous label - says her ethos is partly inspired by her mother's beliefs. ‌ Stella said: "What an influence my mum was. Obviously in my life she guides me how I conduct myself in my business and in my home." But despite the trappings of the McCartney name, Stella admits she is just like any other mother at home, especially when it comes to her daughters who often steal treasured items from her catwalk collections. She said: "I have an 18-year-old daughter but she is now an age when she is stealing all my major clothes. She is like "Can I go into the archive?" and she whips out the most iconic pieces. She is like "Oh that is the 1997 runway." And I never see it again." "But my kids do get mad at me. There is that Saturday Night Live sketch where they say "I am your mother". "My kids always play that to me. But I said to my daughter once "The only mission I have as a mother is to pass on the thing I have learned." My boys are different." And as Father's Day approaches this Sunday, Stella says her children are just like everyone else's adding: "I have to tell my kids like it is Father's Day coming up. I say to them that we don't need anything, We don't need anything so I say to them 'But write him a letter. Make him proud of you.'

Who is Love Island 2025 contestant and bombshell Emily Moran?
Who is Love Island 2025 contestant and bombshell Emily Moran?

Scottish Sun

time36 minutes ago

  • Scottish Sun

Who is Love Island 2025 contestant and bombshell Emily Moran?

Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) A BOMBSHELL is about to drop on the most famous villa in reality TV — one of the stunning Welsh variety. Here we get to know Emily Moran, who's travelled all the way over from Australia to Mallorca to rustle up some romance on Love Island 2025. Sign up for the Entertainment newsletter Sign up 2 Emily Moran is being lined up as a Love Island bombshell Credit: Instagram 2 Emily is from the same town as Love Island 2024 alumni Nicole Samuel Credit: Instagram Who is Emily Moran? Love Island 2025 is set to introduce a captivating new bombshell into the proceedings. Emily Moran is a Welsh brunette who is poised to shake up the dynamics in the villa and turn a few heads. Currently residing in Sydney, Australia, she has already made her way over to Mallorca, ready for romance and hoping find a lasting connection. Sources close to the show revealed where Emily is originally from — and it's the same town as Love Island 2024 alumni Nicole Samuel. They told exclusively The Sun: "Emily's originally from Aberdare, the same town as Nicole Samuel from last year's show. "Her ex-boyfriend is tall, dark and handsome, so she'll have plenty of options when she does make it into the villa. 'Unlucky in love' "She's been unlucky in love since moving down under and is hoping to find Mr Right with a little help from Maya Jama and the British public." As glamorous as she is well-travelled, Emily's social media presence paints a picture of an adventurous young woman. She enjoys beach days, often sharing photos of herself soaking up the sun in an array of stylish bikinis. In 2024 alone, she explored a number of popular destinations, including Ibiza, Mykonos, Mallorca and the Amalfi Coast. Nepo baby sobs as she ADMITS drink-driving after talks to join Love Island Emily's romantic history adds another layer of intrigue to her Love Island persona. With a penchant for tall, dark and handsome men, she is expected to have a wide range of options when she lands in the famous villa. As of June 10, 2025, Emily already boasts over 7,000 followers on Instagram, but that's sure to skyrocket during her time on Love Island. Her most recent social media posts on the platform from the end of May 2025 indicate she's living the dream. [Emily's] ex-boyfriend is tall, dark and handsome, so she'll have plenty of options when she does make it into the villa A Source 'Happy girl' She told her followers she was a "happy girl" in one post, while another saw her say: "I love my little life". The arrival of Emily follows reports of the first dramatic dumping of the season, where one of the original villa girls was unexpectedly sent home. This twist, promised by the show's bosses as part of the Love Island's 10th anniversary celebrations, has set the stage for further surprises throughout the series. A source said: 'This girl will be sorely missed as was already proving to be a big character. She was absolutely gutted to leave. 'But the series has twists and turns at every stage and this isn't the usual dumping viewers might expect after a bombshell arrives. 'Executive producer Mike Spencer-Hayter has promised drama for the tenth anniversary and this format point will not disappoint.' The first bombshell of the series, American Antonia Laites, made her mark almost instantaneously when she coupled up with Ben Holbrough — leaving Shakira Khan single and vulnerable.

White Lotus star Theo James and national treasure Stephen Fry star in grotesque new film exposing the UK's dirty fishing secret
White Lotus star Theo James and national treasure Stephen Fry star in grotesque new film exposing the UK's dirty fishing secret

Scotsman

time37 minutes ago

  • Scotsman

White Lotus star Theo James and national treasure Stephen Fry star in grotesque new film exposing the UK's dirty fishing secret

The film, directed by twice-BAFTA nominated director Ben Mallaby, delivers a shocking ending, as a mass of stomach churning fish bycatch crashes down onto immaculately suave Theo and his table mid-meal; exposing the brutal truth about one of the most destructive and overlooked fishing practices taking place in British marine reserves. Despite their designation, most UK marine protected areas (MPAs) still allow bottom trawling; the industrial practice of dragging weighted nets across the seabed, decimating habitats and indiscriminately catching and killing countless 'non-target' marine species in the process. Research by Blue Marine shows that 74% of England's inshore MPAs and 92% in Scotland still permit this practice, including in fragile habitats such as seagrass meadows. With the United Nations Ocean Conference underway, Blue Marine Foundation ( Only One and Oceana UK are calling on the UK Government to impose an immediate ban on bottom trawling in all UK marine protected areas. Take part in the e-action here: In the film, Theo James plays a diner at a smart restaurant who orders a seemingly sustainable fish course. But his evening takes a horrifying turn when an enormous net of rotting bycatch and oil is dumped on him and his table as the 'extras' to his 'sustainable' plaice. Fry plays a comedic, shadowy waiter, delivering the harsh reality of the seafood industry; reminding Theo that what we don't see on the menu is often the most devastating to marine environments. 'This shockingly destructive practice continues even in the UK's protected areas,' said Stephen Fry.'I witnessed the waste firsthand and was absolutely appalled. It is morally corrupt to allow what should be thriving ecological wildernesses to be reduced to shells of destruction. Bottom trawling in marine protected areas must be banned now.' Theo James added, 'As a keen diver I've long been captivated by the ocean and been horrified by the impact humans are having on it. Having had a load of bycatch dumped on me, it really drove home just how grotesque and devastating the practice of bottom trawling is. It was deeply unsettling but I was glad to do it if it helps drive real change.' Jo Coumbe, Communications Director at Blue Marine Foundation, said'Making this film was an eye-opener, even for the seasoned conservationists. When we first saw the bycatch it was just devastating to see - almost unbelievably so. Baby sharks, rays, cuttlefish, angler fish - nothing gets away. The bycatch sourced to create this film was made up of 27 different species, including five species of shark or ray and numerous juveniles. Nothing is safe from the nets of a trawler.' HOW THE PUBLIC CAN HELP: Supporters can visit HERE ( to send a direct message to Environment Secretary Steve Reed MP urging him to take action. The film was co-produced between Blue Marine Foundation and Atomized Studios and all bycatch was authentic and legally sourced. It was responsibly disposed of through Billingsgate Market's regulated waste system. Blue Marine Foundation acknowledges sensitivities but defends the hard-hitting imagery as essential to confronting the true impact of industrial fishing. 1 . Contributed Theo James & Stephen Fry in 'The Bottom Line' Photo: Submitted Photo Sales 2 . Contributed Theo James & Stephen Fry in 'The Bottom Line' Photo: Submitted Photo Sales Related topics: Stephen Fry

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into the world of global news and events? Download our app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store