Din Tai Fung: A family's food and their humble road to a grand opening in Vancouver
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Yang Bing Li set up four tables in his shop, and the first Din Tai Fung restaurant was born.
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The business grew from one floor to five, and in 1993 was named one of the world's top 10 best restaurants by the New York Times.
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Din Tai Fung's Xiao Long Bao has three components, all made from scratch at the restaurant: a soup stock, simmered overnight; pork ground fresh every morning; a dough made hourly, lest it dry out and become too stiff to work.
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The cooled broth is mixed with pork, ginger, green onion and sesame oil and nestled in a packet with 18 precise folds (18 is a lucky number in Chinese culture).
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The dough, rolled with a traditional dowel, must be thinner at the edges so it can be folded, and thicker at the centre so it can hold the soup. Dumpling trainees drape the dough over a special light box to learn how to get the exact thickness.
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'It is that difficult, and that simple,' said Yang.
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Yang, who was born in Taiwan, and whose father helped grow the Din Tai Fung empire, remembers the original shop in Taipei, with the narrow staircase to the top floor, and the hospitality his grandfather, who died in 2023, showed to every guest.
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'In Taiwan at that time there were no elevators, so he carried a disabled guest on his back up that tiny little staircase so he could dine with his friends. It shows the humility and dedication he had, and his ethic about treating our guests like family.'
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