Spanish Muslims retrace ancient Hajj travel route on horseback from Andalusia to Saudi Arabia
CAIRO (AP) — Three Spanish pilgrims performing the Hajj in Saudi Arabia rode on horseback to Mecca, traveling thousands of kilometers in snow and rain and along a path they said had not been trekked for more than 500 years.
Abdelkader Harkassi Aidi, Tarek Rodriguez and Abdallah Rafael Hernandez Mancha set out from southern Spain in October, riding through France, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Syria and Jordan to arrive in Saudi Arabia in May.
It was an emotional moment for the trio when they reached Mecca. No pilgrim had traveled this way since 1491, they said.
Harkassi said the group's path from Spain took them across about 8,000 kilometers (nearly 5,000 miles) before they reached the Kaaba, the black cube structure in the Grand Mosque in Mecca.
'We had crossed so many kilometers to be there and Allah had replied to our wish,' he told The Associated Press on Thursday from Arafat, southeast of Mecca. "We were in front of the Kaaba and had the opportunity to touch it. So, that 8,000 kilometers became nothing.'
During their monthslong journey they came across scenic stretches of nature and historical landmarks in Syria, including the Aleppo Citadel and the Umayyad Mosque.
They also found an old railway track built during the time of the Ottoman Empire that connected Istanbul to Saudi Arabia. They followed it for days to help guide them to the desert kingdom.
But there were challenges, too. They lost their horses in Bosnia, only to find them later in a landmine zone. Nobody could fetch the horses because of the explosives, but the animals eventually made it out of the area unharmed, Harkassi said.
The human element of the trip was the most valuable for the team, he added.
'When we didn't have anything, people helped us with our horses, with our food, they gave us money. When our assistance car got broken, they fixed it for us," Harkassi said. "People have been incredible. I think it's proof that Muslims are united, that the one ummah (nation) that every Muslim longs for is a reality."
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USA Today
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- USA Today
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San Francisco Chronicle
8 hours ago
- San Francisco Chronicle
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A journey that began 5,000 miles away Ali's odyssey began last July. After making an initial deposit of 600,000 Pakistani rupees ($2,127), he went to Karachi airport, where he was told to wait for a shift change before approaching the immigration counter. 'The smugglers had inside help,' he said. He and other migrants were swiftly put on a flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. From there Ali boarded a second flight to Dakar, Senegal, where he was told someone would be waiting for him. Instead, when he arrived he was told to go to the Senegal River bordering Mauritania, a seven-hour taxi ride north. He joined other Pakistanis traveling to the Mauritanian capital, Nouakchott. In each country he passed through, bribes were demanded for visas, Ali said. Imran Iqbal, 42, took a similar journey. Like Ali, he flew from Karachi to Senegal via Ethiopia before reaching Mauritania. Other Pakistanis Iqbal met, he said, traveled through Kenya or Zimbabwe enroute to Mauritania. 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But since last year, migrants from far-flung countries like Pakistan, Bangladesh, Yemen, Syria and Afghanistan have increasingly embarked on the fishing boats used to reach the European archipelago. Smugglers connect with migrants locally in Pakistan and elsewhere, as well as on social media. Migrants post videos of their voyages on TikTok. Although some warn of the dangers, they also share idyllic videos of life in Europe, from Canary Island beaches to the bustling streets of Barcelona and Madrid. For many, Spain is just an entry point for continuing to France, Italy and elsewhere. Chris Borowski, spokesperson for the European Border and Coast Guard Agency Frontex, believes smuggling networks bringing Pakistanis and other South Asian migrants through the Canaries are still 'testing the waters' to see how profitable it is. However, experts at the Global Initiative Against Transnational Crime warn the route is here to stay. 'With the conflict landscape showing no sign of improvement, movement on the Canary Islands route looks set to increase,' the group warned. 'Because it remains the deadliest migration route in the world, this has severe humanitarian implications." The Atlantic Ocean crossing can take days or weeks. Dozens of boats have vanished. Exact figures don't exist, but the International Organization for Migration's Missing Migrants Project recorded at least 1,142 deaths and disappearances last year, a number it calls a vast understatement. Spanish rights group Walking Borders reported nearly 9,800 victims on the Canaries route last year — which would make it the world's deadliest migration route. Only a tiny fraction of bodies are ever recovered. Some shipwrecked vessels have appeared hundreds of thousands of miles away, in the Caribbean and South America. The boat Ali and Iqbal boarded had a 40-person capacity but was packed with more than double that. Immediately, there were fights between the Pakistanis and the Africans on board, they said. The Associated Press wasn't able to locate non-Pakistani survivors to verify the accusations, but reports of violence on the Canaries journey are frequent even among those of the same nationality and ethnicity. Dehydration can cause hallucinations, exacerbating tensions. 'The weather was terrible,' Ali said. 'As water entered the boat, the crew threw our belongings and food into the sea to keep the boat afloat.' On the fifth day, a man died of a heart attack, Ali and Iqbal said. More people perished every day, their bodies thrown overboard; while some died from hunger and thirst, the majority were killed. 'The crew attacked us with hammers, killing 15 in one night,' Ali said. Both men showed photos of injuries others sustained, although AP couldn't verify what caused them. 'The beatings were mostly to the head — so brutal that people started losing their sanity,' Iqbal said. They prayed for a merciful death, convinced they had little chance of survival. On the 10th night, after dozens had died, lights appeared on the horizon. They shouted for help. At daybreak, a fishing vessel approached, handing them food and water before eventually towing them to the West African coast two days later. Forty-four Pakistanis had died. 'Only twelve bodies returned to Pakistan," Ali said. "The rest were lost at sea.' Back at square one News of the failed journey made international headlines, prompting a pledge by Pakistani President Asif Ali Zardari to go after smugglers. Pakistan's Federal Investigation Agency has arrested dozens of people suspected of arranging the journey or connections to the smugglers. A nationwide crackdown was already underway, but smugglers change locations to evade capture. In Europe and Pakistan, smugglers who are caught are primarily low-level operatives, resulting in limited impact on the overall business. Staring at the mansions being built around his modest brick home in the Pakistani village of Dera Bajwa, Ali reflected on his wasted journey. 'These are the houses of those who made it abroad," Ali said. 'People like me see them and dream without thinking." Brito reported from Barcelona, Spain.
