Skip this ‘forlorn' Blue Mountains town? You'll be missing out

Sydney Morning Herald

13-05-2025

Once upon a time, in the dawn of Australian tourism during the early 20th century, the Blue Mountains hub of Katoomba was the cutting edge of style, a place where Sydney socialites came to 'take the air' and party in grand hotels with spectacular vistas of the vast Jamison Valley.
During the 1920s and '30s, it was known as the honeymoon capital of Australia; while generations of Sydney families have fond memories of weekends admiring the famous Three Sisters or riding the Scenic Railway.
But as noted by this masthead on Saturday, poor old Katoomba has seen better days. Many of its once-glorious heritage buildings, including the ornate Paragon Cafe, are in a shocking state of decay – boarded up, scarred by graffiti, uninhabitable. Blue Mountains residents, myself included, are invariably appalled by the neglect, frustrated by the lack of action and accountability as local council, Heritage NSW and absentee slum landlords play the blame game for the sorry state of affairs.
But to suggest Katoomba be avoided by the three million tourists who visit the region each year or bypassed en route to the sights of Echo Point does the town a major disservice.
For behind the grunge and 'to lease' signs lies a quirky, eclectic soul, with a vibrancy and funkiness reminiscent of inner-Sydney suburbs like Newtown or Enmore. From thrift stores to art galleries, cafes to bookshops, there's no better place to potter and poke around than K-Town, especially if the weather is inclement (as it so often is!)
And for every neglected building, many more have been lovingly restored by business owners passionate about the region's heritage. Overseeing the town behind an imposing circular driveway is the magnificent circa-1883 Carrington Hotel, its stained-glass windows and Tiffany dome a wonder to behold; while across the road, the dress circle of the art deco Savoy Theatre now houses the retro-fitted Avalon Restaurant, replete with Barbie dolls in birdcages and creepy boa-wearing mannequins.
A few steps down Katoomba Street leads to an old bank building, now the excellent Tempus restaurant; while beyond the eye-catching street art of Beverly Place is Bowery, a chic cocktail bar and restaurant within the walls of an old Federation-Romanesque church.