Cinco de Mayo is more than just tacos and margaritas: Jasmine Mangalaseril

CBC

03-05-2025

Cinco de Mayo, May 5, is a celebration of Mexican culture and identity.
It's the anniversary of a stunning and inspirational Mexican victory over the larger and better-equipped French army at the Battle of Puebla in 1862.
The day is celebrated with commemorative festivities in Puebla, Mexico. Outside of the country Mexican communities around the world celebrate the day by showcasing their culture and diverse food.
UNESCO recognises Mexican cuisine as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The diverse foods reflect the land, waters and people who lived and settled there.
"Talking about food in Mexico, you never end," said Chef Eduardo Perez, owner of Kitchener's Lord of the Tacos. "Every state has their own staple food. So, they're going to celebrate with what they have."
Originally from Mexico City, Perez has travelled the world sharing and introducing Mexican cuisine to countries in Asia, Africa and Europe. He and his wife Gabriela moved to Waterloo region in 2019.
Rich flavours of Mexico
Mole Poblano, Puebla
Mole is a sauce or marinade, and Mexico has dozens of versions. Contrary to often sharp and savoury ones, Mole Poblano is complex with sweet, savoury and pungent ingredients, including chocolate.
"It's a little sweet and it has chocolate and sugar. We can use raisins, plantain, [Maria] cookies or fried tortillas," said Perez. "We use dried chillies, almonds, different prunes. It has an amazing flavour."
Try it on veg or non-veg enchiladas at The Cactus in Waterloo or Latino America Unida in Cambridge.
Cochinita Pibil, Yucatan Peninsula
Mayans used a pib (an underground oven or pit barbeque) to slow-cook game meats or vegetables. After pigs arrived with the conquistadors, the cooking technique was adapted for cochinita (suckling pigs).
Cochinita pibil's acidic marinade tenderizes and flavours the meat. Some recipes use vinegar, but you'll often find citrus juices, like lime, orange and grapefruit. It's also flavoured by Recado de Todo Clase (a blend including oregano, allspice, cloves, cinnamon and cumin). Achiote tints the meat reddish orange.
Try it in tacos (made with pork shoulder) at Sazon in Cambridge.
Birria, Jalisco
Perez said, you'll find red meat dishes in Central Mexico. "It's going to be lamb or it's going to be beef, or it's a combination of everything else ... so, Jalisco is the birria and also the tacos."
Birria is a stew featuring silky long-cooked meat in an earthy, savoury broth. It can be served as stew, in tacos or bread (both with the pot liquor for dipping). Some people add it to ramen.
Try it in tacos at Mi Tienda Latina and Casa Toro 88, both in Kitchener, and in tacos or on sopes (thick corn tortillas) at America Latina Grocery and Eatery in Kitchener.
Pozole, all Mexico
First made by Mesoamericans, the pozole soup or stew, is enjoyed throughout Mexico and in neighbouring Latin American countries.
It's an incredibly versatile dish. It can feature poultry, pork, fish, or be left meatless. Chillies colour the broth red or green, and without either, it's white.
Along with pozole (hominy) and a good squeeze of lime, a banquet of toppings often accompanies it, including tostada strips, lettuce, onions, radishes, avocado, crema, chicharrónes and crushed chillies.
"In Mexico, that's a main dish and you put everything. You're not going to have anything else with pozole," said Perez.
Try it at The Cactus in Waterloo or Latino America Unida in Cambridge.
Wash it all down
Mexicans have long added a squeeze of lime and a shake of salt to their beers. From these cheladas, micheladas evolved to include a combination of sauces and savoury ingredients like Clamato juice, Maggi seasoning, and (sometimes) powdered chillies.
On the non-alcoholic side, there are agua frescas (fresh waters).
One version adds sugar, fruit, or flowers to water. Perez said jamaica (hibiscus) and tamarind are popular flavours.
Another is horchata. It was adapted from Spanish horchata de chufa, a creamy tiger nut drink made with water, cinnamon, often sweetened with dates.
"When [the Spanish] came to Mexico, we didn't have [tiger nuts], so they chose to make it with rice. They soak the rice, blend it, they put cinnamon, sugar. And that's horchata." said Perez.
Drink it in micheladas at Don Julio in Kitchener, agua frescas at Casa Toro 88 in Kitchener or Horchata mixes are available at Latino stores.