A Tokyo Bathhouse Where Firewood Heats the Soul

Japan Forward

10-05-2025

Just a 10-minute walk from Ekoda Station in Tokyo, tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood, is Ekodayu — a public bathhouse, or sento , where the spirit of the Showa era still lingers.
Ekoda, a district in Tokyo, retains the nostalgic charm of an old student town. Step into one of its narrow alleyways, and it feels as if you've slipped back in time. The third-generation owner of Ekodayu greets a regular customer.
The doors of Ekodayu open at 2:30 PM, and familiar faces begin to trickle in. As you ease into the steaming bath, the first hit of heat can feel prickly on the skin — but soon the sensation gives way to a deep, soothing warmth. The owner carefully cleans the bathing area before the bathhouse opens. (©Sankei by Katsuyuki Seki)
"The water is heated with firewood, which gives it a soft quality," explains Hiromu Hokkyo, the 26-year-old third-generation owner. Since its founding in 1970, Ekodayu has remained committed to this traditional method of heating.
With its warm, family-like atmosphere, Ekodayu preserves the essence of a classic neighborhood bathhouse, cherished by both locals and travelers. Today, with most homes equipped with private baths, a visit to a sento is a nostalgic experience — and for younger generations, it offers a glimpse into the Showa era. Typical sento showers at Ekodayu.
But sento like Ekodayu serve a deeper purpose. Thanks to its dual heating system — using both firewood and gas — the bathhouse can continue operating even during emergencies. "Even if the power goes out, we can still heat the water and support the community," says Hokkyo.
"I want first-time visitors to experience not only the retro charm of sento , but also their role in the neighborhood," he adds, smiling warmly as he greets regulars from behind the reception desk.
( Read the article in Japanese . )
Author: Katsuyuki Seki, The Sankei Shimbun