How to take care of your nails as you age, according to dermatologists

NBC News

12-12-2024

Aging is a natural part of life, and while many people focus on solutions for fine lines and wrinkles on their face and neck, tending to aging nails is just as important.
'With age, our bodies naturally produce less collagen and keratin, the building blocks that keep nails strong and resilient,' says Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York. Aging nails can come with brittleness, splitting, decreased circulation and a noticeably slower growth rate.
We spoke with board-certified dermatologists about the best nail care products for aging nails and what to look for when shopping. We also put together a list of what to shop based on their recommendations and guidance.
How we picked the best nail care products
When shopping for nail care products for aging nails, our experts recommend looking at several factors, including the type of product and ingredients. Below, we highlight their suggestions when shopping:.
Type of product: The three most common nail care products are cuticle oils, hardeners and conditioners. Oils help hydrate and soften the cuticles in addition to preventing moisture loss and cracking, and are a great option for people struggling with dryness. Nail conditioners hydrate brittle nails and boost nail strength. Finally, nail strengtheners are great for preventing breakage, splitting and peeling, which is best for those with damaged nails.
Ingredients: What's in the products you choose makes a big difference in the results you'll get. Biotin is one ingredient that helps strengthen brittle nails and support healthy growth by improving keratin production, says Dr. Pooja Rambhia, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York, adding that it can also increase nail thickness and reduce splitting. Jojoba oil is another beneficial ingredient — not only is it rich in vitamin E and has anti-inflammatory properties, but it mimics the natural oils produced by the skin, allowing it to penetrate deeply and lock in moisture, which is crucial for maintaining healthy nails, says Rambhia. Applying jojoba oil or products containing it regularly 'can promote nail flexibility, reduce cracking or splitting and support overall nail strength,' she says. Other beneficial ingredients for your nails include petrolatum (which is deeply hydrating) and hyaluronic acid (to draw in moisture).
The best products for nail care in 2024
Dr. Serena Mraz, a board-certified dermatologist based in California is a fan of this oil because it has a blend of jojoba, vitamin E, rice bran and almond oil, and is designed for daily use on both the nails and cuticles, she says. In addition to the brush applicator, it also comes in pen form, making it easy to travel with and use on the go.
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
'A classic, highly effective ingredient for aging nails, Vaseline forms a protective barrier on the nail and surrounding skin, locking in moisture and preventing dryness,' says Rambhia. 'It's especially useful for dry, cracked cuticles and brittle nails, creating an ideal environment for healing and strength.' To use, apply a small amount to the nails and cuticles overnight.
This plant-based nail hardener is gentle and free from harsh chemicals like formaldehyde, formalin and toluene. It's formulated to reduce the appearance of ridges on the nails, and 'is a great option for anyone looking to strengthen aging nails while avoiding potentially harmful chemicals,' says Rambhi, who recommends applying the formula as a base coat for nail polish to protect and fortify aging nails.
To keep nails and hands hydrated, this travel-friendly moisturizer comes recommended by Kopelman since it's moisturizing without being greasy. It also has ceramides, 'an ingredient that plays a crucial role in maintaining hydration and reinforcing the skin barrier around the nails and cuticles,' she says. 'By helping to lock in moisture and reduce water loss, ceramides prevent dryness and cracking, which are common issues in this area.'
Dr. Dana Nail Renewal System
Developed by board-certified dermatologist and nail specialist Dr. Dana Stern, this all-in-one kit has everything you need to get your nails back on track. Whether you're experiencing age-related nail changes or your nails have been put through damage, the three-step system repairs brittle, peeling nails and improves shine. The kit features a glycolic pen to exfoliate and remove superficial damage, a priming wand to promote shine and a hydrator to moisturize nails and cuticles.
Opi Nail Envy
Kopelman recommends this nail strengthener, which is 'fortified with calcium and protein to help strengthen brittle nails.' It comes in several shades — including white, pink, red and nude — so it can work as a nail polish in addition to strengthener. It's also 9-free, which means it's free of nine common chemicals commonly found in nail products including formaldehyde, parabens and phthalates. To use, the brand recommends applying two coats to bare nails followed by an additional coat daily.
How to shop for nail care products
When shopping online or in your local drugstore or pharmacy, here's what experts recommend you pay attention to:
Look for the right product type
Nail care products come in different forms and what you choose should depend on your desired benefits and the application experience. For instance, oils are helpful in keeping the nail and cuticle area hydrated, but can potentially feel greasy upon application and may be best worn overnight. Nail hardeners typically have ingredients that strengthen the nail structure, reduce brittleness and help prevent breakage, but they won't do much for nail growth if that's what you're after. To encourage quicker nail growth, look for products with keratin and biotin.
Incorporate moisturizers
Nails, like skin, lose moisture over time and as we age. 'Nails rely on natural oils to hold the layers together, but with age, these oils decrease, making nails more prone to chipping, splitting and even developing ridges,' says Kopelman. 'I often tell my patients that these ridges are like wrinkles on the skin — totally normal but sometimes frustrating.' Moisturizers like vitamin E, jojoba oil and omega-3 fatty acids can aid in moisture loss and overall health and appearance in this area. 'Moisturizing the nails provides a degree of flexibility and improved strength to the nail,' says Mraz. 'When nails are more flexible, they are less apt to break and split with normal forces applied during everyday activities.'
Why do nails change with age?
Just like our skin, our nails are susceptible to age-related changes. Here's more:
Reduced circulation and slower nail growth: Reduced blood circulation means fewer nutrients and oxygen get delivered to the nail bed. You may also experience your nails growing at a slower rate due to our overall metabolic slowdown. 'Reduced circulation to the hands and feet means nails aren't getting the same level of nutrients they once did, leading to a noticeable slowdown in growth,' says Kopelman. According to Rambhia, nail growth typically decreases by about 0.5% annually after the age of 25, with fingernails growing at an average rate of 3.0 mm/month and toenails at 1.0 mm/month.
Texture changes: Aside from slower growth rate, you may experience textural changes in your nails as you age. They may become more brittle and more prone to breakage and splitting. This is often due to a 'natural decline in keratin production and reduced moisture in the nail bed, both of which are essential for maintaining strong, flexible nails,' says Rambhia, who adds that these issues can be exacerbated by systemic conditions such as anemia, hypothyroidism, liver and kidney disease or peripheral vascular disease.
Discoloration: A gradual yellowing or dullness is completely normal and is often caused by slower cell turnover and a reduction in blood flow to the nail bed, which Rambhia says can impact nail transparency and vibrancy. Also, repeated exposure to environmental factors like UV light, frequent use of dark nail polishes and certain medications can contribute to discoloration over time, says Rambhia.
How to care for aging nails
There are several things you can do to care for your aging nails. For one, you'll want to treat the dryness, as dryness can make nails more brittle and prone to splitting and breaking. 'I recommend moisturizing your nails and cuticles regularly with a hydrating cream or oil,' says Rambhia.
Also, get into the habit of wearing gloves when cleaning or washing dishes, as it protects the nail from excessive exposure to chemicals and water, which can strip the nails of moisture and weaken them.
Diet can play a role in the health of your nails, too. Mraz recommends consuming a variety of nuts (which have protein and vitamin E), pumpkin seeds (which are rich in protein, iron, minerals and omega-3 fatty acids) as well as oats (for the biotin, zinc and silicon). 'Bone broth is rich in collagen, amino acids and gelatin, which can work to strengthen the nails,' she says. Finally, a variety of fruits and vegetables rich in vitamin C can also help with nail formation. .
Meet our experts
At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
Dr. Hannah Kopelman is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York and serves as the Chief Dermatologist at DermOnDemand. She is clinically trained in skin cancer and hair loss.
Dr. Serena Mraz is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in cosmetic dermatology and vein surgery.
Dr. Pooja Rambhia is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York. She specializes in cosmetic dermatology and laser surgery.
Why trust NBC Select?
Michelle Rostamian has more than 10 years of experience covering beauty and skin care topics. For this story, Rostamian spoke to three board-certified dermatologists and included their direct recommendations and highly rated products based on their guidance. She also included formulas she's tested and likes.