Postcard from Madaba: Cosy bookshop Kawon is a universe of rare titles, cats and community

The National

23-05-2025

The ancient Jordanian town of Madaba − known as the City of Mosaics − is a tourism magnet, with its historic streets, olive trees and hidden gems tucked away in every corner. One of these magical nooks is Kawon, a bookshop in the centre of town on Palestine Street, that is known for its stock of rare editions, quirky interior − and a resident tribe of cats. The bookshop, the town's first, was opened 10 years ago by Ghaith Bahdousheh, who left the corporate world to sell books. Mr Bahdousheh told Jordanian media at its launch that he started Kawon because there were no books accessible to him in his town, forcing him to drive almost an hour to Amman every time he wanted to buy some. He received help from volunteers around the world with funding and books, and also support from Queen Rania of Jordan. A circular black sign etched with the shop's name − which means universe in Arabic − hangs from an archway at the entrance to the 150-year-old building and its garden, which features spaces for browsing, dining or simply relaxing, with cats milling about for company. Going through the front entrance – where a wooden stand displays a colourful assortment of home-made jam and other condiments for sale – and going down the steps into the shop feels like being transported to a different world. Inside is a display of vintage audio cassettes, maps, records and handmade souvenirs. Past the cashier, new and second-hand books, sorted according to genre, are scattered around three rooms; some on shelves other stacked in piles on the floor. Works of art can be found in every section of the shop, including a prominently displayed portrait of Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, decorated with coffee pods and the lids of tins. One of the rooms houses an extensive inventory of rare titles, antique books in several languages, and historical Asian artwork. For cat lovers, there is the prospect of occasionally discovering a cardboard box with a litter of kittens safely stowed away here. Besides being a bibliophile's dream, Kawon has an outdoor space that encourages social gatherings, especially among young people, and builds a sense of community. 'Kawon is a unique and special place in Madaba,' says Mera Sayegh, 26, who lived in the town before moving to California. 'Sometimes, I went alone when I needed some quiet time. With friends, it was fun and lively, and alone, it was calm and reflective.' Ms Sayegh says she misses the 'vibe' of the shop − from its coffee to its music, books and people. 'I always enjoyed spending time there. It had a peaceful atmosphere that made me feel comfortable and happy. It always lifted my mood.' Madaba residents are not the only visitors though. Travellers from all over the world have made it a point to come here when visiting Jordan. One tourist on Tripadvisor said the wall murals caught her eye, and she has had the best cup of chai in Kawon. 'So glad we stopped in, wish we had done so sooner and more frequently during our stay in Madaba … a treasure when travelling. Don't miss this place,' she said. Another user recommended Kawon's cafe. 'My favourite part was the cafe. There's a section upstairs, just outside the entrance to the bookstore that offers food, so I ordered from them their dish of the day – which was superb! Seriously, it was probably my favourite meal during my time in Jordan,' she said. A vegetarian kitchen – which serves a new dish daily – and coffee shop sit between the bookstore and garden outdoors, its walls lined with jars of herbs and local spices. As customers wait for their orders, conversations blossom about food, books they are reading, or how their day has been. Madaba being a small town, many of the visitors are likely to know each another, creating a strong local community. People can also be seen stretched out on the Arab floor seating in the large outdoor area, reading and sipping sage tea as soft music plays through the speakers. Tables and chairs are also set up for dining around the garden, each set with its own personality, with some seat cushions upholstered from coffee bags and rugs. When there are no customers, the seats are occupied by sunbathing felines that can also be seen strutting about the place, enjoying the bowls of food and water the owners leave out for them. Over the years, their presence has become a feature of the bookshop, attracting new customers and adding to the ambience.