logo
I sampled Michelin-starred food in Japan – but it's the egg mayo sandwiches I'll remember

I sampled Michelin-starred food in Japan – but it's the egg mayo sandwiches I'll remember

Telegraph14-03-2025

Presented in a beautiful, layered black box tied up with a ribbon, my first meal in Japan arrived in style. However, as I unfolded the trays of lovingly prepared food, it was as I suspected it might be: lots of raw fish. And, er… other stuff, some of it yellow and slimy. The guest next to me was impressed: 'This is exactly what I was looking forward to – a proper Japanese breakfast.''
I did not say 'this is exactly what I was dreading', but that would have been true. What I know about Japanese food could be written on the back of a receipt from Itsu – but look, I was giving it a go.
I had flown down from Tokyo to Fukuoka, Japan's sixth-largest city. Fukuoka is on Kyushu Japan's third-largest – and most southerly – island and has a growing reputation for its cuisine.
It had been a long journey and although I had a fantastic room in the Ritz Carlton, I was somewhat baffled by it. The bathroom consisted of two glass boxes inside each other, all of it which could be screened off. The design was superb, but it took me a while to figure out how to actually get inside it.
Prior to breakfast the only thing I had eaten since my arrival were some enormous strawberries left for me in my room. Grown locally, they could have rivalled anything from Kent.
Fukuoka, which means 'happy hills', is not on the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka circuit. It is, however, regularly cited as being one of the best places to live in Japan.
After a couple of days there, I began to see why. It's walkable – unlike the massive sprawl of Tokyo – and the people are friendly; there are beaches and plenty of green space. There are lots of little bars, some fabulous modern architecture, plus a museum full of Buddhist statues, Miro and Dali.
And then there's the food. On my first evening I dined at Yamaya Sohonten Zen in the Shirokane area of the city, a glass-walled restaurant supervised by Zaiyu Hasegawa, a leading figure in contemporary Japanese cuisine whose goal is to highlight Kyushu's food culture. Chef Abe Daishero was at the helm and everything looked very pretty – although I was not entirely clear what a lot of it was. A smiley face cut into a tiny piece of carrot? The claypot rice was a thing of beauty, each grain glistening gem like, but my favourite dish was a kind of deconstructed mackerel sushi, with lotus root tempura.
It was all quite a contrast to Yoruzu, a tea and sake house in the Akasaka area of the city, which I visited to sample its pairings of teas and wagashi (Japanese sweets). The menu – served in a small, dark zen space – was based around a low-key performance by the owner Suguru Tokobusi, who serves his teas in different temperatures from a kettle he designed himself, in what feels like a modern tea ceremony. His assistants bustle around in white coats, which adds to the strangeness. I didn't actually like the very strong tea – I guess this is like the different roasts of coffee – but I liked Tokobusi very much.
He handed me a bowl that was 400 years old and told me to hold the decoration away from myself; he pointed out that the bowl had a deliberate imperfection, as all things must. One could sense the underlying philosophy at work here. It reminded me of Leonard Cohen's line: 'There is a crack in everything, that's how the light gets in.' There was something very moving about the care involved in all this. Tokobusi laughed at me because I really loved a smoked radish morsel he served, saying that it indicated I was a woman who likes 'hard liquor'. Some kind of psychic, surely?
The following day I bowed and made a wish at the local Jotenji temple near the Mikasa river, with its mad cartoonish entrance of a pink smiling face. But mostly I wished my stomach didn't feel quite so weird.
My next meal was lunch at Sushi Gyoten. It's a tiny little place that could seat no more than about eight customers at a time, all perched around one table while Kenji Gyoten himself works its magic. No wonder he has three Michelin stars.
As he placed a huge hairy crab that was still alive on the counter, I felt as if I was watching a master at work. He followed that with a slab of tuna as big as a side of beef, explaining all the different cuts. I tried some creamy puffer fish (they can be poisonous, but I trusted him not to kill me). The meal felt like a complete experience because he is an artist: each piece of sushi was an improvisation created as he responded both to the ingredients and to the people in front of him. Without question, this is dining as an elevated, astonishing experience.
Having said all that, the place I really enjoyed my food the most was at the yatai (mobile food stalls) that Fukuoka is famous for. These pop-ups – each one taken down during the day and put up at night by the Naka river – are polythene shacks where you are crammed on a bench while the cook makes tiny gyoza and pork yakitori in front of you, or doles out bowls of ramen. Everyone drinks highballs and the whole experience feels friendly and without pretension.
The same was true of Librun Craft Sake Brewery, which felt hip and fun: here sake comes in all sorts of flavours, including a horrible chocolatey one the owner had made for Valentine's day (my favourite was the verbena version).
After all that food and drink, I felt I needed refreshment of a different sort. I went to an onsen in the Miyako Hotel Hakata I had moved to right by Hakata station, the warm baths fed by natural spring water. A fuss was made because I have a tattoo on my back but a plaster was found to cover it up and I tried not to stare at the Japanese women, all of us naked, scrubbing themselves.
Every young woman I met in Fukuoka says they have no intention of getting married. Japan has a crisis of ageing on its hands (although I could not help but note the fantastic skin of the older women).
Anthony Bourdain always said don't eat in hotels, head to where the locals eat. Later on, I found a bustling joint within the main rail station, where large groups were celebrating, and everyone was eating fried chicken. This turned out to be the very best fried chicken ever – and I have lived in Louisiana. The Korean influence was there: every mouthful had a proper crunch because karaage chicken is double fried after being marinated.
As I headed away on the bullet train I knew I had been utterly spoilt with wonderful Michelin-starred food, but it is the yatai stalls I will remember. And the egg mayo sandwiches from the 7/11 that I snaffled while watching Sumo wrestling on TV. Did I mention them? Divine.
Essentials
Getting there
Suzanne travelled as a guest of Fukuoka City. For more information, see gofukuoka. She flew with Etihad from Heathrow to Tokyo and then with Jetstar to Fukuoka. There are multiple direct flights daily between Tokyo and Fukuoka, or it is a five-hour train journey via Shinkansen.
Staying there
Ritz Carlton at Fukuoka Daimyo Garden City 2-6-50, Daimyo, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka, has doubles from £545 per night, room only.
With the Style at 1 Chome-9-18 Hakataekiminami, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka, has doubles from £227, room only.
Miyako Hotel Hakata at 2 Chome-1-1 Hakataekihigashi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka, has doubles from £197, room only.

Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

11 restaurants in Bluewaters to have on your radar
11 restaurants in Bluewaters to have on your radar

Time Out Dubai

time8 hours ago

  • Time Out Dubai

11 restaurants in Bluewaters to have on your radar

Sitting pretty underneath Ain Dubai, there's no doubt that Bluewaters is a very aesthetic place for food. Home to some of the city's best seafood and one of its biggest croissants at the same time, a meal here never disappoints. If you like this: Your complete guide to Bluewaters from rent to restaurants So if you need some inspiration on where to tuck in, here are some of the coolest spots to have on your radar. Restaurants in Bluewaters Alici Credit: Alici This charming spot overlooks the Arabian Gulf and JBR, meaning it's ideal for holidaymakers, while those who live in Dubai will also enjoy the vacation feel. Focusing on flavours from Southern Italy and the Amalfi Coast, the cute blues and whites give a fresh feeling, while the menu stars Italian seafood dishes. From raw plates to the specialty ingredient anchovies (Alici means anchovy), there's plenty to try for seafood-lovers. The lobster pasta is artfully presented, served table-side and comes with tender shellfish in an unctuous tomato sauce. Plus, it's officially one of the best restaurants for seafood in Dubai. Open Mon-Fri noon-4pm, 5pm-11pm, Sat-Sun noon-11pm. Bluewaters Dubai, (04 275 2577). Bakerist If you're visiting for brekkie, there's a giant croissant at Bakerist calling your name (just make sure you order it in advance). The French bakery and coffee shop also offers up a range of normal-sized desserts and savoury options too, from pistachio and chocolate covered strawberries to a creamy eggs shakshuka. Open daily 8am-midnight. Bluewaters, (050 715 2343). BrewDog (Credit: Brewdog) The fun, quirky and in-your-face brand has drinks inspired by everything from punk rock to Elvis Presley to Willy Wonka and everything in between. A bar first created in Scotland, the venue recently opened beneath Ain Dubai, filled with dart boards, sports screens and some seriously-stacked burgers and bar bites to get your teeth sunk into. Open Sun-Thu noon-midnight, Fri-Sat noon-2am. Bluewaters, (052 956 5688). Clay Credit: Clay The Japanese-Peruvian fusion first landed on Bluewaters back in 2022 after first launching in Bahrain. Serving up a selection of Nikkei-style dishes, you can nibble on dishes from sake taco and katsu sando to ceviches, prawn and tofu tempura. Boasting an Ain Dubai view, the terrace is an ideal spot to enjoy a few dishes, or for free-flowing drinks, head to the weekly Saturday brunch instead. Open Sun-Thu noon-midnight, Fri noon-1am; Sat 1pm-1am. Bluewaters, (04 422 5600). Demon Duck (Credit: Demon Duck) When there's a celebrity chef involved, expectations are high. Mix in a prime dining spot at Bluewaters Dubai and you know you're in for a treat. Created by chef Alvin Leung, the Chinese restaurant serves duck in every shape and form think duck gyozas, duck soup, minced duck wraps, the lot. But there's much more than that to dig into, and in the cooler months, you can enjoy your dinner out on the garden terrace. Open daily 6pm-noon. Banyan Tree Dubai, (04 556 6466). Din Tai Fung Located on Bluewaters Island, it's Din Tai Fung's fifth outpost in the city – with popular venues already delighting diners in The Mall of the Emirates, Dubai Mall, Al Ghurair Centre and Nakheel Mall. The menu is the same as its other branches with the same no-frill approach to tasty and wallet-friendly food. A must order dish? Don't miss out on the xiao long bao. Open daily 11am-1am. Bluewaters, (04 288 7786). Frank Credit: Instagram @frankmeat_me This casual spot is a perfect place to kick back with something from the grill. All about the meat, you can try everything from beef ribs to lamb steaks and juicy burgers. Covered in red neon lights and graffiti creeping up the walls, you can expect hip-hop tunes (and generous portion sizes). If you fancy something chilled on the side of your grill, there are happy hours running every day of the week. Open Mon-Fri 1pm-noon, Sat-Sun 1pm-1am. Bluewaters, (058 634 8811). Ribambelle (Credit: Supplied) Head over to Bluewaters with the little ones this weekend and get a table at Ribambelle, the restaurant that comes complete with an in-house slide and ball pit. Designed to give the kiddos a magical experience while you finally get to enjoy that coffee (or glass of grape), the play zones include candle-making and even T-shirt painting. Plus, the cost of their soft play entry also comes with a kids' meal included. Dhs95 (kids, weekdays), Dhs150 (kids, weekends).Open daily 9am-10pm. The Wharf, Bluewaters Island, (04 581 5555). The Pods If you're looking for a spot for the 'gram, or want to feel like you're still outside during those hot summer months, then these are the pods for you. Offering up a pan-Asian menu, you can also nip in for breakfast and try the restaurant's take on eggs benedict and French toast. Letting you look over to JBR during the day and a glittering skyline at night, these private dining capsules make the perfect place for a good gossip (or to impress your other half). Open Mon-Fri 7am-1am, Sat-Sun 7am-2am. Bluewaters, (04 453 8994). The Spaniel The British brasserie is serving up everything you would expect from a classic gastropub, from a quality roast dinner to huge slabs of fish and chips. You can enjoy different deals every night of the week, from beef Wellington Wednesdays to steak frites Saturdays and a weekly business lunch. Open Mon-Thu noon-midnight, Fri noon-1am, Sat 9.30am-1am; Sun 9.30am-midnight. The Spaniel, (04 554 3728). VNYL Hi-Fi Credit: VNYL Hi-Fi The listening bar is a laid-back record spot during the day, turned electric speakeasy by night. Pick from a selection of Izakaya-style small plates (think shrimp toast and wagyu katsu sandos), or head straight to the miso-braised short ribs. While you're there, be sure to browse the shelves of shiny vinyl cases and even listen to a record or two on the in-house players. Open Mon-Wed 4pm-1am,Thu-Fri 4pm-3am, Sat-Sun 1pm-3am. Bluewaters, (052 249 4004), Hungry for more? New Dubai restaurants 2025: The just-opened spots you need to try next The new dining spots you need on your radar 12 seriously underrated Dubai restaurants and cafés (that are not tourist traps) Places Dubai locals swear by 5 incredible Bali-inspired cafés to spend the day in Chill out at one of these super cool spots

Your luxurious summer escape is sorted at Delano Dubai
Your luxurious summer escape is sorted at Delano Dubai

Time Out Dubai

timea day ago

  • Time Out Dubai

Your luxurious summer escape is sorted at Delano Dubai

Summer's here, and that means it's officially staycation season. If you're thinking of a quick escape, lucky for you, you won't even have to leave the city. Delano Dubai has everything you need to feel like you've been whisked away to an island retreat. Located minutes from Jumeirah Beach Residence and Dubai Marina, Delano Dubai is a luxurious resort offering stunning sea views and the iconic Delano Pool experience. Unwind by the sea at its Bluewaters address with a summer stay package that is running until Tuesday September 30. The exclusive summer offer includes complimentary breakfast and dinner every day, plus there's 20 percent off dining at selected venues across the resort. There's also a sweet Dhs150 spa credit per person, per stay to spend at the serene Banyan Tree Spa just next door. Go ahead and book yourself that foot massage. Inside the resort Each of the 251 rooms and suites opens onto a balcony that frames the sea beautifully. Whether you're flying solo with a good book to finish or reconnecting with loved ones, every experience at the resort is thoughtfully designed to help you unwind. That same sense of calm extends to the aesthetic too, from the sparkling beige-toned pool deck dotted with striped yellow umbrellas to the cosy rooms, where monotone colours mirror the serenity of the sea just beyond. Sneak peek of what your day will look like Wake up to sea views, then head on to Tutto Passa, a southern Italian restaurant, for an easy breezy breakfast. Then splash around the stunning Delano pool for an active start to the day. And thanks to the temperature-controlled water, you'll stay refreshed no matter how high the heat climbs. How's that for a chill start? Or you can squeeze in a yoga or Pilates session at HWH Studio, the hotel's boutique wellness space. Come evening, the resort's dining offering truly steps up. With seven venues to choose from and 20 percent at select restaurants, you'll want to pace yourself. Kickstart your evening at Rose Bar where you can catch up for an intimate pre-dinner drink, perfect for dates. Over at Blue Door, the menu dips into bold Anatolian traditions, while Gohan spins out Japanese flavours with a playful, modern edge. Or you can unwind in the cool comfort of La Cantine Beach, where sunset dining is taken seriously. From indoors, soak up the pool views through floor-to-ceiling windows, surrounded by breezy linen textures and bamboo décor that echo the laid-back spirit of summer. Easy to access from mainland Dubai, Delano Dubai makes a strong case for staying put this summer – or at least checking in for a few nights of it. Ready to get away? Book now:

Bianca Censori's sister joins Kanye's crew after denying she's dating his pal
Bianca Censori's sister joins Kanye's crew after denying she's dating his pal

Daily Mirror

time2 days ago

  • Daily Mirror

Bianca Censori's sister joins Kanye's crew after denying she's dating his pal

Bianca Censori's younger sister, Angelina, has been spending time with her sibling and Kanye West in Japan after holidaying with the couple in Spain where Bianca caused quite a stir Bianca Censori's sister, Angelina, is officially part of Kanye West's crew after joining the rapper as he jet-sets around the world. Bianca, 30, has sent shockwaves through the showbiz industry since hooking up with Kanye, 48, sporting her barely-there outfits - and now Angelina has been thrust into the spotlight too. After hanging out with Kanye and his gang in Spain last month, where Bianca dropped jaws flashing her nipples in another eye-popping outfit, 20-year-old Angelina is travelling with the rapper's entourage in Japan. The Aussie model took to Instagram on Wednesday to share a series of photos of their latest trip, including images from popular chain restaurant WAGYUMAFIA and snaps of the Japanese skyline. ‌ Kanye West bizarrely 'changes name again' four years after complete rebrand ‌ Meanwhile, a photo of Kanye posing in designer vintage store Amore in Japan also emerged online. The Jesus Walks star sported a plain black hooded jumper with the hood pulled over his head for the shopping trip as he posed without cracking a smile. A second image also emerged showing graffiti scrawled on a wall that read: 'Ye is GOD,' while a third showed the name of Kanye and ex-wife Kim Kardashian's eldest child North West. During her trip with the controversial rapper, Angelina rubbished rumours she was dating Kanye business partner, Sneako. The whispers came after she shared a series of photos from their Mallorca trip, which included Sneako posing for the camera at a luxury waterfront property Kanye was believed to be staying in while Angelina stunned in a silver string bikini. ‌ Fans flocked to social media, suggesting Angelina and Sneako were more than just friends. However, the model shut down any romance rumours by writing on X: "We are not dating." It comes after Bianca 'horrified' locals in Spain when she paraded through the quiet streets of Mallorca in her bra and knickers. ‌ Witnesses say locals were left horrified by Bianca's outfit choice for their market tour, with one even heard asking if that was her "real nipple" as she bared all in her the sheer bra. "People were horrified. They could be heard asking 'is that her real nipple?' as they walked by. Kanye was standing back a little, letting her browse the market," a witness told ‌ Bianca might have been hit by backlash, but women have been allowed to go topless in some areas of Spain since 2020. Under Catalan equality law, women can sunbathe topless in public places without fear of arrest and authorities can be fined a huge £430,000 if they prevent women from being able to go topless. However, while she didn't break any laws, people were left fuming by the Aussie's outfit choice. "Why hasn't this woman been arrested for indecency yet!!!?' one person wrote on X, with another adding: "We have literally seen it all, even when we didn't want to,' another said, while a third wrote: 'So disrespectful to the country and their modest views." Another fumed: "How do they get away with this nudity? If any other non-celeb tried it, they would be arrested."

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into the world of global news and events? Download our app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store