My luxury camping holiday in the Hollywood of Africa – where Game Of Thrones, Bond and Gladiator were all filmed

The Sun

17-05-2025

I STEP out of my tent, surrounded by golden sand dunes.
A campfire gently flickers while camels sleep in the distance and the Milky Way shines down on me from a sky so clear you can see every star.
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I'm spending the night at operator Xaluca's Auberge Bivouac La Belle Etoile, at the Western edge of the Sahara desert in Morocco.
The camping site sits in the shadows of the stunning Erg Chebbi, a rolling wave of huge sand mountains stretching as far as the eye can see.
Looking out across the golden and barren landscapes, it feels like I've been transported to a different world. Everything looks Photoshopped.
But it is real. And it's just a three-hour flight from the UK.
For me, the word camping evokes memories of flooded tents, soggy sleeping bags and wellies stuck in the mud.
But this is a far cry from the horrors of Glastonbury Festival in 2016.
It's more of a luxury boutique hotel than a campsite, with clean en-suite bathrooms, a kitchen whipping up Moroccan-themed feasts and freshly brewed tea served from ornate pots.
My tent is bigger than my flat (and more comfortable than it, too) with a king-size bed, crisp linen sheets and soft pillows.
There's all the mod-cons too, including a plug socket to charge your phone, plus a comfortable sofa with a view over the radiant dunes and handwoven Moroccan carpets decorating the floor.
Behind some curtains, my en-suite bathroom features a waterfall shower, a flushing toilet and fluffy towels.
There's even air conditioning — the ultimate luxury in the desert.
And if we weren't blown away by the decor, then we sure would be by dinner.
A banquet of tagine bubbling with beef and spices, and a pile of melt-in-the-mouth couscous with chicken is served — all while live music was played on traditional Amazigh drums and hand cymbals.
The party carries on around the fire — after all, we needed to keep ourselves busy and awake until midnight for a stroll into the dunes for some stargazing.
With zero light pollution, the stars blaze in the ink-black sky.
I'm no astronomer, but with a little guidance I could pick out Venus, Jupiter, Saturn and the reddish hue of Mars. It was a magical experience.
During the day, these dunes look a little different — and the best way to explore them is by camel.
I hold on for dear life as mine rises on to his front legs, then all fours. It feels higher than it looks.
Once I've got to grips with my new ride, we sway gently into the desert.
Passing serenely through the silent dunes, the sun starts to peer over the distant Atlas mountains and the view of orange-tinged sands is awe-inspiring.
Unlike bustling Marrakech, this corner of Morocco is a haven of tranquillity.
With nothing between you and the horizon, stresses of home melt away and the everyday life feels a distant memory.
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The nomadic Berber people have lived here for hundreds of years and are so welcoming to visitors wanting a small taste of their culture. And that's exactly what I was here to do.
The Xaluca resort offers special tour packages that can be tailored to your interests, with local experiences, 4x4 tours and more all included in the price.
Survival in nature
Leaving camp, I head into the wilderness by 4x4 with wonderful local guide Brahim.
We weave our way along the sand until the small specks in the distance grow larger, and soon we're approaching a couple of makeshift tents and huts, the home of one local family.
They welcome us in like old friends — with a delicious glass of hot mint tea, sweetened with copious amounts of sugar, as well as some cakes baked on a tiny clay oven.
Families like this are scattered across the vast landscape, where wild goats and camels can often be found, constantly on the move in search of water.
The families live the same lives as their ancestors — no electricity, no phones or social media. Just trying to survive in nature. It's a very humbling experience.
As we continue into the wild, Brahim whips out his phone and proudly shows us a selfie he took with his last passenger, John Cena.
The WWE superstar-turned-movie-actor had been here the previous week, filming upcoming action blockbuster, Matchbox.
We carry on west towards dusty desert city Ouarzazate.
If you watch a movie set in Ancient Rome or Egypt, chances are it was made here.
At the city's impressive Atlas studio you can explore elaborate sets used for both Gladiator movies, The Mummy, Indiana Jones and even a Bond film.
Look up into the skies to admire one of the many locations where Daenerys Targaryen's dragons breathed fire in Game of Thrones.
You can even stand in the same spot where Russell Crowe screamed 'Are you not entertained?' in the jaw-dropping ancient village of Ait Ben-Haddou.
To answer Russell's question: Yes, I am. And I have Morocco's deserts to thank.