
Wes Anderson's sense of an ending
Photo by Focus Features
Wes Anderson's films either entrance or fail. I am a devotee of earlier work, up to The Grand Budapest Hotel of 2014, but The French Dispatch (2021) was intolerably twee, without any of the emotional depth that his best films have, that intuition of pain under the capering, that connection with childhood. Asteroid City (2023) was even more mannered, lapsing into self-parody.
The Phoenician Scheme, let's say straight away, is a treat. Unlike its predecessors, it has a story to tell, rather than being an anthology of incidents. It uses all of Anderson's stylisations but is not primarily about them, as his later films had started to seem. He takes his own cinematic language almost for granted here, rather than foregrounding it relentlessly. In a recent interview, he seemed almost to acknowledge that his 'visual handwriting' had become a burden, a distraction from content: 'You can tell it's me… But, for me, each one is a different story, a different set of characters, and it's a whole undertaking.' He even protested: 'I am me, I'm not like me… The only thing I want is for people to look at the movie for what it is, not for what it's like.' Recently, that had become difficult. Not here.
It's 1950. Anatole 'Zsa-zsa' Korda (Benicio del Toro) is one of the richest men in the world, a domineering international entrepreneur, frequently targeted for assassination by his rivals, plotted against by an international cabal. In the opening sequence, we see him survive, just, his sixth plane crash. Bloodied and battered, he emerges from a cornfield, just as reporters are gleefully delivering his obituary, trying to stuff a 'vestigial organ' back inside his body. 'It's not as easy as it looks,' he says.
Del Toro, who previously played the deranged artist in The French Dispatch, is tremendous, magnetic and imperious, compelling your attention as much as Gene Hackman in The Royal Tenenbaums or Ralph Fiennes in The Grand Budapest Hotel. Anderson wrote the film for him and didn't consider anyone else for the part. His character is modelled quite closely on the tycoon and art collector Calouste Gulbenkian (1869-1955), dubbed 'Mr Five Per Cent' for his custom of retaining that much interest in every deal he put together, including the Turkish Petroleum Company that controlled oil in Iraq and elsewhere.
Korda has a massive plan, the Korda Land and Sea Phoenician Infrastructure Scheme, exploiting an entire region. He must get the support of multiple backers, including Prince Farouk, the 7th King of Lower Western Independent Phoenicia (Riz Ahmed), the Sacramento Consortium (Tom Hanks and Bryan Cranston), Marseille Bob (Mathieu Amalric), the Newark Syndicate (Jeffrey Wright), his cousin Hilda (Scarlett Johansson), and his sinister younger brother Nubar (Benedict Cumberbatch, looking very much like Gulbenkian's real-life playboy son Nubar). Meanwhile, the markets, particularly in the bashable rivets he needs, are being manipulated against him. Plus, as he mildly complains, people keep trying to assassinate him.
So he recruits his estranged 20-year-old daughter Liesl (Mia Threapleton), whom he hasn't seen for six years, having sent her to a nunnery as a child. He will make her his sole heir, he tells her, so that 'if they get me, you get them'. He shows her all his plans neatly arranged in a set of shoeboxes (it is a Wes Anderson film, after all). Liesl agrees, for a trial period, provided Korda abandons slave labour, famine creation and confining her nine adopted little brothers to a dormitory. Off they go to persuade the backers, accompanied by Korda's new private tutor, Bjorn,an entomologist from Oslo who may not be entirely what he seems (a brilliantly funny Michael Cera in his first role for Anderson).
Threapleton, 24, the daughter of Kate Winslet, is a revelation. Liesl is touchingly resolute: she boldly stands up to her outsize father, earning his love, changing his sense of what matters most. The sense that this part must itself have been a big challenge for Threapleton at this stage in her career plays into the character beautifully.
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The film's emotional core is this evolving father-daughter relationship, which Anderson acknowledges comes out of both his relationship with his wife's father, Fouad Malouf, a Lebanese businessman, to whom the film is dedicated, and the fact that he himself has a nine-year-old daughter. Those intimate origins can be sensed, for all the crazy capers: classic Wes Anderson, all over again.
'The Phoenician Scheme' is in cinemas now
[See also: Gertrude Stein's quest for fame]
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Fashion United
18 hours ago
- Fashion United
Mammoth task for Jonathan Anderson: What awaits the designer at Dior?
Jonathan Anderson's appointment as artistic director of both menswear and womenswear at Dior may have been long speculated and widely anticipated, but the now-confirmed dual role for the Northern Irish designer is nonetheless historic. With a somewhat understated announcement on Monday, Anderson becomes the first designer to lead all divisions of the storied French fashion house – including womenswear, menswear, and haute couture – since Christian Dior himself. Ten collections a year – and counting With great power, however, comes great responsibility. In Anderson's case, that responsibility will amount to ten collections per year for Dior alone, not including the six annual collections for his eponymous label, J.W. Anderson, or the two he designs in collaboration with Uniqlo. While many assumed Anderson would pause work on his namesake brand to focus on his expansive new role, particularly given the brand's absence from the February fashion calendar, he remains officially involved. According to The Business of Fashion, citing J.W. Anderson's chief executive, Jenny Galimberti, the designer will continue to oversee all six collections for his label. The workload is monumental, even for a designer known for his relentless pace and creative output. Since launching his brand in 2008, later backed by a minority stake from LVMH in 2013, Anderson has rarely slowed. When he wasn't creating for his own label, he was busy transforming Loewe, the Spanish, LVMH-owned fashion house he joined in 2013 at just 29 years old, from a relatively inconsequential brand into one of fashion's most sought-after and talked-about names, with annual revenues estimated at around 2 billion dollars. Even that, however, didn't seem to fully occupy his time toward the end of his tenure, as he also partnered with Italian film director Luca Guadagnino to design costumes for films such as Challengers and, more recently, Queer. All of this still seems a far cry from what Anderson is now set to take on at Dior, a maison with estimated revenues of 9 billion euro in 2023, according to HSBC. Until now, there has been one unspoken rule ever since Dior Men became an established line under Hedi Slimane in the early 2000s: no designer was to take on both womenswear and menswear simultaneously, as the workload was considered simply too immense. Former creative director John Galliano, who led womenswear from 1996 to 2011, cited the overwhelming demands – creating over 30 collections a year across both Dior and his namesake label – as the cause of his breakdown, drug abuse, and eventual scandal-ridden dismissal from Dior. Anderson 'the only option' for Dior Anderson does, without a doubt, appear far more level-headed than Galliano, less eccentric, too. But much like his predecessor, he is 'one of the creative talents of his generation,' as Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, described him when announcing Anderson's appointment to the menswear line back in April. His daughter, Delphine Arnault, Dior's chief executive, used even more exuberant language in a rare interview with Business of Fashion, where she explained her decision to appoint the designer to the dual role. He had been the obvious choice, she said, calling him the most talented designer of his generation. Arnault, who first met him 13 or 14 years ago, also praised his loyalty, something he had already proven during his tenure at Loewe, while acknowledging that a designer as energetic and ambitious as Anderson would inevitably seek a new challenge. That challenge has now arrived. Dior is not only more than four times the size of Loewe in terms of estimated revenue, but also comes with a significantly larger team to oversee – not to mention the fact that Anderson is joining the house at a pivotal moment. Growth has slowed, and expectations are astronomical following what has been one of fashion's most drawn-out succession sagas. The speculation began when Kim Jones, then artistic director of Dior Men, resigned, and rumors swirled that Maria Grazia Chiuri, who led the brand's womenswear for over a decade, was also set to depart. At long last, that question has found its answer, even if it only opens up space for more questions, because what exactly the new Dior will look like remains to be seen. A unified vision to be unveiled at the end of June What is already known, however, is that Anderson's appointment signals more than just a creative shake-up – it represents a strategic shift for Dior. The house is now clearly pursuing a unified creative vision across all divisions, something that has historically been lacking, with distinctly different approaches often dividing menswear and womenswear. 'It's a lot of work,' Arnault acknowledged. 'But we think this will bring a lot of coherence – in the products, in the communications, in the windows.' Anderson's arrival, then, is set to usher in a new era for Dior – not just in aesthetic terms, but structurally as well. While it is safe to assume that his vision will depart significantly from those of his predecessors, it is rooted in deep research. In preparation for his debut, Anderson has reportedly spent time in the Dior archives, examining not only the work of Christian Dior himself but also that of the designers who followed him. Among the many house codes he's revisited, the new designer is said to be especially drawn to iconic pieces such as the Lady Dior handbag – and according to Arnault, he has been granted full creative freedom to reinterpret these elements in his own voice. That Dior would grant him such liberty, especially when it comes to leather goods, comes as little surprise. Anderson has already proven his talent for creating accessories that both captivate and sell, with Loewe's now-iconic Puzzle Bag from 2015 standing as just one notable example. One area where the newly appointed designer, despite his extensive experience, notably lacks expertise is haute couture, a discipline he has never officially tackled. While craftsmanship has long been a cornerstone of his work at Loewe, couture presents a different level of technical and artistic precision. It is, however, the one aspect of his new role that he will have time to ease into, with Dior opting to skip the upcoming couture season. The decision is not without context, after all Maria Grazia Chiuri's final collection for the house, though officially ready-to-wear, featured 20 couture-level gowns, likely occupying the ateliers well beyond the typical production timeline. As a result, the fashion world will first encounter the designer's creative vision for Dior through his menswear debut this June, most likely a strategic move. Launching with menswear not only gives Anderson a cleaner slate, distancing his work from the immediate legacy of Chiuri's womenswear, but also positions his first major statement outside of the crowded womenswear calendar. His debut women's collection is slated for Paris Fashion Week in September, a season already brimming with high-profile transitions at Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Loewe, Bottega Veneta, Versace, and Jil Sander. By the time Anderson unveils his take on Dior womenswear, he will have already planted his flag – a move that may give him both clarity and momentum amid fashion's most competitive season.


The Herald Scotland
21 hours ago
- The Herald Scotland
Tourist tax targeted as Edinburgh festivals raise 'stagnation' fears
She suggested some were still in a 'precarious' position despite securing new long-term Scottish Government funding earlier this year. Read more: In an exclusive interview with The Herald, Ms Anderson suggested that Edinburgh's proposed new visitor levy - which will be introduced just before next year's summer festivals - was a 'huge opportunity' to help event organisers move from 'survival mode to thriving". Ms Anderson is the third director of the organisation Festivals Edinburgh, which was launched in 2007 to help secure the capital's status as the world's leading 'festival city". Lori Anderson is the director of Festivals Edinburgh. (Image: Colin Mearns) Ms Anderson works with 11 of the city's annual festivals, including the Edinburgh International Festival, the Fringe, the Tattoo, Edinburgh's Hogmanay celebrations, and the city's celebrations of jazz, film, visual art, science, storytelling, children's entertainment and books. Ms Anderson revealed that the 'scale and ambition' of some festival programmes had already had to be reduced as a result of lower-than-hoped-for Scottish Government funding, particularly for this year's events. Lori Anderson is director of Festivals Edinburgh. (Image: Colin Mearns) She suggested that the new Scottish Government funding deals announced by its arts agency, Creative Scotland, in January had not reversed the impact of prolonged standstill funding, which dated back as far as the 2008 global financial crash. Ms Anderson said: 'Edinburgh's festivals are finally in a more stable position after been in crisis mode for a good few years now with significant budget cuts, the pandemic and negotiating Brexit. 'But most of the festivals did not get as much as they wanted for their multi-year funding programmes and the timing of the announcement was much later than expected, which is making 2025 a difficult year. A number of festivals have had to adjust their scale and ambition of their programmes. The Edinburgh International Book Festival relocated last year to a new home at the former Edinburgh Royal Infirmary. Picture: Edinburgh International Book Festival 'Looking ahead to the future, they are really at a bit of a crossroads now. They have a bit of stability at the moment, but their funding is always precarious and always a challenge.' The Scottish Government committed an additional £40m for Creative Scotland's multi-year funding programme, however this is being rolled out over two years. The Edinburgh International Festival's annual funding has increased from £2.3m to £3.25m this year, with a further £1m increase to come in 2026-27. The book festival's annual funding will has gone up from £306,000 to £520,000 this year and will rise a further £160,000 next year, while the art festival's funding is going up from £100,000 to £130,000 then £170,000 over the same period. Two of the city's most high-profile festivals, the Fringe and Edinburgh's Hogmanay festival, do not have long-term funding from the Scottish Government or Creative Scotland. Texan rope performer 'Duke Loopin' on the Royal Mile during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. Picture: Gordon Terris Ms Anderson added: 'Creative Scotland's funding announcement was really welcome, but that doesn't mean that everyone is really settled now. 'The fire-fighting has subdued a bit and it has provided a bit of stability, but some of the festivals are still in quite a precarious position. The Edinburgh International Film Festival has been running since 1947. 'I think the two directions the festivals could go in from this crossroads moment are either stagnation or ambition. 'There are some opportunities ahead which mean they can start to think more about their future ambitions now, a couple of years ahead of their 80th anniversary. Lori Anderson is director of Festivals Edinburgh. (Image: Colin Mearns) 'We don't want to see the stagnation of the festivals. We want to see them thrive and not just be in survival mode.' Edinburgh's long-planned visitor levy, which is also known as a 'tourist tax,' will be introduced by the city council just days before the main summer festival season gets underway in 2026. Anyone booking accommodation from October 1 will be liable to pay the new five per cent levy, which will be capped for visits of up to five nights. The council, which has predicted the new levy will raise up to £50m a year by 2028, and has pledged that it will be 'reinvested directly into initiatives that benefit residents and enhance visitor experiences.' Ms Anderson described the visitor levy as a 'really exciting opportunity' to secure the future of the festivals. But she warned there was a risk of the city 'robbing Peter to pay Paul' if event organisers and their artists had to pay the extra charge but did not see it reinvested in the festivals. Ms Anderson said: 'The festivals are really entrepreneurial when it comes to looking at creative ways to raise income and being financially sustainable. 'The big challenge for them at the moment is around the cost of doing business in Edinburgh. 'It is an expensive place to live, work and visit and to put on a festival. In particular, there are very high accommodation costs at the moment. 'Visitors, performers and festivals that support the accommodation costs of their artists will have to pay the visitor levy when it comes in. 'But I think it's actually a really exciting opportunity. It's a huge moment for Edinburgh to think holistically and have significant investment across the whole city. It's a moment to be looking forward to and planning for. 'We would hope that, given the contribution that the festivals make to the city, some of the visitor levy income would come back to them, otherwise it would just be a case of robbing Peter to pay Paul.' Under the council's current spending plans, 35% of the money raised via the levy will be ringfenced for culture, heritage and events, although detailed proposals have not yet been agreed by councillors. Ms Anderson said: 'A lot of the festivals are keen to look at investing in their programmes. It could make a huge difference to enable longer-term planning. 'But there is also a huge opportunity to take a strategic approach to the whole city. 'We could see some really exciting projects to the fore to improve infrastructure and connectivity around the city and really help to invest in our cultural organisations, venues and attractions. There's lots to be looking forward to there.' Ms Anderson said the long-term funding secured by many of Edinburgh's festivals earlier this year needed to be the 'start of a new conversation' about how they are supported by the Scottish and UK governments, and the city council. She added: 'Edinburgh's festivals make a huge contribution socially, culturally and economically to Edinburgh, Scotland and the UK. We need to value them and support them with the resources that are needed to maintain and develop them. 'The festivals are second only in scale to an Olympic Games. You have to think about the support and resources are put into an Olympic Games. The festivals have survived for nearly 80 years. They're something that the city, Scotland and the whole of the UK should be incredibly proud of. They're a huge asset, which makes a really significant social, economic and cultural contribution. 'They are joyful, they are inspirational, they are diverse, they happen all year round and they change year-on-year. 'We want to see them supported in order to take forward their ambitions, to continue to represent Scotland and be something that we are incredibly proud of.'


Fashion United
5 days ago
- Fashion United
Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior
After months of mounting speculation, Maria Grazia Chiuri is officially stepping down as artistic director of Dior, bringing to a close a near decade tenure marked by bold feminist messaging, high commercial success, and a redefinition of the house's modern woman. The departure clears the path for the anticipated appointment of Jonathan Anderson, the previous creative force behind Loewe and namesake label JW Anderson, who is expected to assume a consolidated leadership role across Dior's womenswear, haute couture, and menswear divisions. Chiuri, who joined Dior in 2016 as its first female artistic director, helped steer the French maison through a period of robust growth under the ownership of LVMH. She leaves behind a legacy of politicised runway statements, collaborations with female artists and authors, and a design language rooted in what she described as 'committed women's fashion.' 'I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the ateliers,' Chiuri said in a statement, reported the Business of Fashion. 'Their talent and expertise allowed me to realise my vision of committed women's fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written an impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.' Delphine Arnault, who took over as CEO of Dior in 2023, praised Chiuri's tenure for its 'tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity,' noting her contributions to 'remarkable growth.' Chiuri's departure had been the subject of industry chatter for several seasons, with her Cruise 2025 collection in Rome this week now regarded as a swansong. The show, staged at the storied Villa Albani Torlonia, blended classical grandeur with cinematic costume references, encapsulating the designer's dual reverence for heritage and narrative. The expected arrival of Anderson marks a significant shift in Dior's creative structure. Known for his experimental silhouettes and conceptual clarity, Anderson would become one of the few designers at a major heritage house to oversee all gender lines—an appointment that aligns with the conglomerate's recent push toward unified creative leadership. While LVMH has yet to confirm Anderson's appointment formally, sources close to the company suggest an announcement is imminent, likely before the designer's next scheduled menswear outing during Paris Fashion Week in June.