The winter holiday perfect for a taste of Alpine glamour
Breaking through the icy surface of Lake St Moritz is proving to be an issue.
It's around 9am and my hair has a crystallised coating as it's -6C outside. For several days, I've been dreading the thought of submerging myself in the freezing waters – worried about the pain, the possibility of a heart attack from cold water shock, mud between my toes and fishes swimming around my feet.
But I've been told this is the star attraction in a winter destination that shimmers as brightly as the frost sparkling on trees.
Wearing a robe, swimming costume, woolly hat, gloves and hiking boots, I've trekked 300m around this beautiful lake surrounded by soaring snowy mountains, woods and the town of St Moritz along one bank.
Bracing myself, I don wetsuit shoes, ditch the robe and clamber down to the water's edge. And then I'm in, up to my knees.
While it's incredibly cold, I'm surprised not to feel any pain. Kneeling down further, the water now up to my shoulders, I keep my hands out and arms stretched. Alex – my butler at the nearby Carlton Hotel – reminds me to breathe and focus on the surrounding nature. My mind clears and I am calm. I notice how clear the lake is as I spot the pebbles under my feet.
Before I know it, I've been in for 90 seconds (the maximum time for beginners). I hop out with renewed vigour as I feel a hot adrenaline rush burst through my body.
Synonymous with celebrities and millionaires, St Moritz kickstarted winter tourism in Switzerland 150 years ago. Since then, the town with its trademark sun logo has hosted two Olympic games and developed into a thriving ski resort where being seen is as important as the winter sports.
Originally built for Tsar Nicholas II as a summer residence, the 111-year-old Carlton Hotel embodies the glitz and glamour of the destination.
St Moritz map:
Everything here is about unwinding and connecting with nature. All 60 opulent rooms and suites are south-facing with bewitching views of the lake and peaks of the Engadin Valley.
Still brimming with endorphins, I head straight to the Carlton's deluxe spa to defrost in its warm, bubbling indoor/outdoor pool.
As I get in, there is an immense tingle from my feet to my knees, followed by goosebumps. I breathe in the Alpine crisp air and gaze at the wintry countryside through steaming effervescing waters.
Back inside, the spa boasts a series of saunas and steam rooms with varying temperatures and an array of sublime treatments. Later I experience the Moving Mountains massage – where my feet are washed in Alpine salt and rosemary, before a dreamy hot stones massage from head to toe.
Designed by Carlo Rampazzi, the hotel's interiors are extravagant and flamboyant. The light-flooded Bel Etage has two historic roaring fires and luxurious sofas with gigantic windows framing the tranquil Alps.
How to plan your trip
Carlton Hotel St. Moritz (carlton-stmoritz.ch) has B&B rooms from CHF 880/£777 per night based (two sharing), with CHF 100/£88 food and beverage voucher per adult per day.
Despite it receiving the highest award Michelin can offer (three Keys), the hotel has a relaxed and fun ambience. The Carlton Bar drinks menu offers a list of Instagrammable cocktails and there is the quirky Fondue Gondola experience – which involves sitting in an outside Gondola, dipping bread, potatoes and pickles into a boiling five-cheese fondue.
There are also two restaurants – the Grand Restaurant and the two Michelin starred restaurant Da Vittorio. Food is also served on the glorious Sun Terrace.
Feeling invincible after my ice bathing session, I head to the floodlit 6km Preda-Burgün sled run. The start point of Preda is not accessible by car. Instead sledders must get there via the world heritage Rhaetian railway – a magical train journey through deep gorges, tunnels and over multiple viaducts.
The tobogganing track is the Albula pass road, closed for winter, which descends 400m to the town of Bürgen. Although 'family friendly', it's still incredibly fast, with tight corners and steep drops. It is possible to spend a whole day doing this as there are special trains that run from Bürgen back to Preda to have another go.
Other more sedate activities include a traditional horse carriage ride around the lake and woods, a guided tour of St Moritz and ice skating.
Lastly, there is the opportunity to do some fantastic people watching.
I try to spot a celebrity in the main town where streets are packed with designer shops. One afternoon, I have lunch up the mountain watching the skiers on the Corviglia while quaffing champagne and feasting on local delicacies at the Salastrains restaurant.
But ultimately – no matter how big your budget or claim to fame – everybody in St Moritz is made to feel like a star.
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Telegraph
16 hours ago
- Telegraph
The perfect 10-day tour of the Dolomites
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Drive to the Val Nambrone, leaving your car at the Malga Vallina d'Amola car park, and hike to Rifugio Segantini in about an hour and a half. Stop off for a refreshing drink or a bite for lunch, before continuing to the 33-metre-deep Lago Nero. Try and reach the lake as the sun begins to set – it's a stunning sight as the steep rocky walls and well-defined contours of the entire Brenta Dolomites range spreading out before you. From here, the route leads to the nearby Cornisello Lakes, from where you can admire the peaks of the Adamello-Presanella range, before completing your loop. If you're keen to experience a night in a rifugio, try Rifugio Cornisello, which offers half-board; alternatively drive back to your hotel. Enjoy an aperitivo with a view courtesy of Sunsets at High Altitude, which sees participants enjoy a pre-dinner drink accompanied by live music at designated mountain venues. Day 3 Adamello Brenta Nature Park Protected landscapes and picnics Today, you'll trek to the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature Park, Trentino's largest protected area, home to over 1,300 species of plants, with chamois, deer, ibex and foxes a common sight; brown bears have also been reintroduced. With over 700km of trails, there's plenty to explore, including the Bosco Val Brenta, thick woods of towering larch and spruce trees. Set off from Prà de la Casa, an agriturismo run by Matteo and Doriana who rustle up homemade fare using mountain herbs, and make for the Malga Brenta Bassa and Malga Brenta Alta, two ample clearings where you can sit back and unwind with a picnic lunch. You can take part in educational foraging trips through the woods with acclaimed forager Eleonora 'Noris' Cunaccia or, if you're up for trying something a little more unconventional, the Val Brenta is also home to eight natural wellness paths, including yoga, bare footing, tree hugging and natural Kneipp paths, with itineraries that can be carried out independently or led by experts. Come evening, treat yourself to a Michelin-starred dinner at the excellent Stube Hermitage at the hotel in Madonna, with a cosy wood-clad dining area set out to resemble a traditional alpine stube. Day 4 Trento & San Martino di Castrozza A medieval capital First, drive east to the picture-postcard Lago Toblino, with its 16 th -century namesake fortress and castle jutting out into the lake on a rocky spur. Take a gentle stroll along the lakefront promenade and grab a mid-morning coffee at Castel Toblino's café, then continue your drive east to the delightful regional capital of Trento. 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Day 5 Pale di San Martino Via ferrata and rifguios The Dolomites' largest massif, the Pale di San Martino, is prime hiking territory, offering the most dramatic scenery of the Parco Naturale Paneveggio. From San Martino di Castrozza, a cable car whisks passengers up to Colverde, from where the Rosetta funicular cradles you up the mountainside to reach Rifugio Rosetta, the starting point for several trails of varying difficulty, some equipped with via ferrata. A particularly favourite is the 7.5km Riviera di Manna that winds along the plateau in under three hours, which served as inspiration for acclaimed Italian novelist Dino Buzzati's The Tartar Steppe. Experienced hikers could try the Anello dell'Altopiano, a loop that passes Rifugio Pradidali and crosses two mountain passes in just under five hours. For dinner, head to Malga Ces, a traditional mountain restaurant about a five minutes' drive from San Martino di Castrozza. 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Savour elegant alpine dishes and Italian classics at Löwengrube, whose 13 th -century wine cellar houses over 1,000 wines. City culture and the Iceman Spend the day exploring Bolzano, one of the Dolomites' most beautiful cities. Start at Piazza Walther, the central square lined with pastel and butterscotch palazzi, and stroll along the narrow Via dei Portici. The city's prized attraction is the Museo Archeologico, housing the mummified body of Ötzi the Iceman, who was discovered in 1991 a few kilometres from the Austrian border. For lunch, tuck into local specialities at Vögele, a historic restaurant serving traditional dishes in partitioned wood-clad dining areas. Around mid-afternoon, catch the Funivia del Renon (Renon cable car) from Piazza Walther to Soprabolzano, which offers fabulous views of the city and the jagged, saw-toothed peaks of the Catinaccio massif. 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Adrenaline kicks Spend your last day in the fresh mountain air on a scenic outdoor activity, whether climbing or golfing in the nearby Seis am Schlern at the foot of the Seiser Alm – you can also explore this high alpine pasture from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. If you're looking to end your stay on a high, try a tandem paragliding flight, or swoosh through meadows and woods on the Monte Pana Zipline in neighbouring Val Gardena. Enjoy a traditional lunch in verdant surrounds at one of the area's mountain restaurants such as Heualm or Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, before driving to Bolzano Airport or Innsbruck Airport for your return flight home. When to go Outside of the winter season, the best time to visit is between June and September; if you can, avoid the month of August when Italians take the bulk of their holidays – even the remotest of mountain paths can get congested. Note that many hotels and cable cars close after the winter season for a month or so, reopening in June. What to book On a budget Inntravel offers a one-week 'A stroll in the Italian Dolomites' package from £1,160 per person, including seven nights' half-board accommodation, luggage transfers, local travel, and route notes and maps. Flights not included. A 'bootique' experience Original Travel offers 'Bootiquing in the Dolomites' from £3,150 to £5,200 per person, including four nights' half-board accommodation, five days' guided walking, luggage transfers, return flights and airport transfers. The luxury option Cartology Travel offers bespoke trips in the Dolomites from £7.000 per person, including nine nights' half board accommodation, private transfers between resorts, six days with a private guide, activities and selected experiences at each hotel. Flights not included. Expert tips Getting around Renting a car is the best way to get around, allowing you to explore at your own pace, winding along scenic mountain roads and stopping off at sights along the way. There are good train links between Trento and Bolzano – Trentino and South Tyrol's main cities – and several services run through South Tyrol's main valleys. Otherwise rail transport is limited, with buses mostly connecting mountain villages. Clothing Make sure you pack appropriate clothing and outdoor gear, including comfortable walking shoes, suncream and a hat. Even in high summer, it can get chilly when hiking at high altitude – you should be prepared for wind, rain and even snow. Climbing routes Dotted throughout the Dolomites are via ferrata; climbing routes with ladders, rungs and steel cables. Some are designed for novices and even young children, although note that most are for experienced climbers. Place names Note that some locations have two – and sometimes three – names. In South Tyrol, you'll find towns with both German and Italian names. Bolzano, for example, is known by its German name Bozen, while the Alpe di Siusi is Seiser Alm. Some towns also have names in Ladin, a Rhaeto-Romance language spoken by some 30,000 people around the Sella massif. Air travel Several airports are conveniently placed, although flying to the wrong airport can result in lengthy transfers along winding mountain roads. Verona Airport is within easy reach of southern Trentino; Milan Linate and Milan Bergamo are good choices to explore the south and the west of the region; Venice is best for exploring the eastern Dolomites; while Bolzano Airport and Innsbruck are most convenient for South Tyrol. Free travel opportunities
Scotsman
2 days ago
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Brisbane, with a shot of Scotch
Brisbane's Story Bridge, named after Scottish pioneer, John Douglas Story, one of the 19th-century founders of the city which stands on the lands of First Nations peoples, the Turrbal and Yuggera. | Tom Adair Names, bridges, streets and districts all bear testament to the Scottish founding fathers of this forward-looking city. Sign up to our daily newsletter – Regular news stories and round-ups from around Scotland direct to your inbox Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to The Scotsman, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... Welcome to Brizzie! The Queensland capital where the future looks Olympic. What you see here is what you get- which means informal, direct, relaxed. In seven years' time the world will log on, sit back and bask as Brisbane plays host to the Games of 2032. It'll be some party. Right now I'm here in pursuit of a Story - the Story Bridge, named after a Scot - and its Adventure Climb - not to mention the Scottish legacy (still found in district names like Morningside, Balmoral, Kelvin Grove, MacGregor, Robertson) and street names such as Armstrong Street or Edinburgh Castle Road. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad From my lofty room in the Crystalbrook Vincent, a modern art hotel overlooking the tortuous twists of the Brisbane River, at 6am, I see far below the Rivercat ferries like tiny toys, carving arcs from bank to bank while along the serpentine strip of Riverwalk runners and joggers, power-walkers, cyclists, a purposeful existential stream of human endeavour is up and running - evading death or speeding towards it. 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Latched to the rail as we ascend, (health and safety to the fore), zipped into our jump suits, five rookie climbers, (two clinging newly-wed Americans, two Japanese, myself and climb-leader, Sam, from Devon, attempt the first-ascent of the day, Sam spraying facts about the history of settlement: the Scots, the Irish, the English, while directing us to cast our gaze towards the silhouette of the skyline's chrome and glass totems. Kelsi and Justin, (as newly-weds ought), are holding tight, not looking down. Reader - we survived. Tom Adair at the top of the Story Bridge, Brisbane. | Tom Adair I head to Tai Tai for lunch, in the vibrant riverside 'Cultural Quarter', (the Gallery of Modern Art, Brisbane Museum), where I dine al fresco beside the 'Brown Snake', (the locals' nickname for the river), enjoying a flavour burst of South East Asian soup and spicy pork. My server, (Malaysian), calls himself Stewart, while manager, Ian, is a Robertson from Dunfermline boasting a granny from Portree. 'I'm well assimilated,' he grins, pointing out the pontoon where I catch the Citycat, (a free ferry ride), to my digs on the other side. The winding river grants Brisbane a grandeur unmatched by Australia's other state capitals. Graced at intervals by gardens of oleander, jacaranda, figs, and swathes of sub-tropical bush it invites recreation. Bisbaners love it for the man-made striking Streets Beach - a simulated tropical paradise with palm trees, a blue lagoon, white sandy beaches and chill-out vibe. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad While the river feels open, the city hoards secrets within its high rise. I seek to unlock them with Local Sauce Tours, whose city guide, Saskia, mentions her bagpipe playing granddad as she strides me into the looming smoked glass labyrinth of buildings, finding gems from a century past: St Stephen's Cathedral, and older still, the great domed Customs House, floodlit at night, and the super opulent Regent Theatre, ornately magnificent. Round two corners lies City Hall in King George's Square, a public space where citizens rally in times of crisis and celebration. Its dominant statue - the Petrie Tableau - lauds the importance of the city's founding family. The Presbyterian, Andrew Petrie settled in 1842. He nurtured relations with the Turrbal, and became the first mayor of the settlement which had been named for Thomas Brisbane, the New South Wales Governor, originally from Largs. 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Milton, my promised date next morning, would have hated it. And besides, I was pretty sure he'd be sleeping already - he goes to bed early and kips like a log 20 hours a day. We meet by arrangement after breakfast at Lone Pines Sanctuary up river. It houses, crocodile, platypus, dingoes, snakes and roo. But mostly Koala - and Milton's the poster boy. Milton the koala, who sleeps 20 hours a day at the Lone Pines animal sanctuary, Brisbane. | Tom Adair While I stroke his back and shoulders he simply blanks me, munching juicy eucalyptus. A passing water dragon hustles us. Milton's indifferent. Another fistful appears in his paw. Caillin, his keeper says he's 'a very good boy indeed,' adding 'he's bit me only once.' I notice the water dragon take cover. 'Mosquitoes love him' she adds. On cue he begins to scratch.
Scottish Sun
5 days ago
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Luxury 794ft superyacht ‘sea hotel' with five restaurants & mini-marina completes trial before first voyage this summer
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