I've Lived in Virginia for 30 Years—and This Peaceful Peninsula Might Be the State's Best-kept Secret

Travel + Leisure

25-05-2025

The northernmost of Virginia's three peninsulas, the Northern Neck is a tranquil escape on the Chesapeake Bay.
The Tides Inn offers a serene experience with activities like bird-watching and oystering.
Head to Willaby's for riverfront dining, Adrift for creative, locally sourced meals, and Merroir for oysters directly from the farm.
Explore the natural beauty at Hughlett Point, go hiking at Belle Isle State Park, or take a boat tour with Sweet Sea Charters.
Though there's not much in the way of nightlife on the Northern Neck, Camp provides live music and a social atmosphere.
Nestled between the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers on the Chesapeake Bay lies a Virginia escape that offers tranquility in spades. To cross the bridge to the peninsula known as the Northern Neck is to leave behind modern life for a place seemingly unmoored by its demands.
The birthplace of George Washington, James Madison, and James Monroe, the Northern Neck is steeped in history. And, at times, it can feel stuck there, too. The region's 1,100 miles of shoreline outnumber its roads and traffic lights combined. And, its density of roughly 50 people per square mile is less than half of one percent of areas upstream on the Potomac. On 'Northern Neck time,' there's no rush, and the sooner you embrace the region's slower pace of life, the sooner you'll benefit from its effects.
It's this relaxed atmosphere that lured chef Devin Rose back to the area in 2018 to open his dream restaurant, Adrift. After growing up in his father's Northern Neck restaurants, Rose left to further his culinary training, then returned to bring the food he loves to the place he loves. Few have better insight into the area's secrets and places to eat.
Here's our guide to the Northern Neck region in Virginia. Aerial view of the hotel and marina at The Tides Inn.
Arguably the jewel of the Northern Neck, The Tides Inn underwent a restoration in 2021 that created a living shoreline with a boardwalk around the property. 'What they've done over the past few years is pretty amazing,' said Rose. Ashore, understated elegance, a spectacular setting, and earnest hospitality conspire to ensure guests unwind in luxury. The inn evokes such a sense of serenity that it tempts one never to leave their Adirondack chair perched above the water. For more active guests, a full-time ecologist, horticulturist, and artist offer experiences like oystering, bird-watching cruises, and pinot and painting art classes.
Vacation rentals line the Northern Neck's shores, many with beautiful views and private boat docks. But if you're someone who plans travel around food, the place to book is just over the bridge in the Middle Peninsula. The restaurant Merroir is so alluring that some people spend a whole day there, alternating between oysters, beers, and more oysters. Fortunately, The Oyster Bed, a three-bedroom rental home with excellent guest reviews, is just steps away. As a bonus, guests enjoy access to Merroir's boat docks. Al fresco dining tables at The Tides Inn.
Wayne E. Chinnock/The Tides Inn
Rose suggests starting the day at The Local in Irvington, mingling with locals over custom-blended Blanchard's coffee and a breakfast sandwich or avocado toast. In the next town over, White Stone's Chesapeake Doughnut Co. also serves Blanchard's coffee, along with classic and creative doughnut flavors and tasty sandwiches on homemade biscuits or buns made from doughnut dough.
Lee's Restaurant, located in Kilmarnock, has been run by the same family for 80 years. 'It's like stepping back in time,' says Rose. 'And I mean that in the best possible way.' The waitresses call you 'honey' while refilling your sweet or unsweet tea. Order some delicious fried pickle fries, fried spicy green beans, or fried seafood. And at an old-school place like this, wedges of homemade pie for dessert are a must.
Throwing parties in college is how William Barnhardt discovered his love of hospitality, and he has run Willaby's ever since—for more than three decades. Sit inside or out at the riverfront pub, which even boasts its own beach. Choose from comforts like Ma's Oyster Stew and seafood sandwiches, and keep an eye out for the live music schedule. And don't leave without an order (or two) of the signature chargrilled oysters.
If you prefer to cook, Miss Mary Seafood makes it easy. Seafood runs in the blood of co-owners Tony Ferguson and Lisa Carol, who source from an unrivaled network of local fishermen to offer what Rose calls the freshest seafood in town. They know how to cook it, too, and are happy to advise. 'She's a personality,' said Rose. 'She would do anything for her customers.'
It doesn't get more local than this White Stone shop, which sells produce from its nearby farm and other farms that share its sustainable, 'beyond organic' practices. Rose says the 'awesome staff' can help you build a meal from some of the same ingredients he uses at his own restaurant. Or, you can leave the cooking to the shop. For its rotating array of prepared foods, like soups, salads, quiches, hand pies, and stews, the market relies on French Culinary Institute graduate Joe Merolli, whose resume includes NYC's Le Bernardin.
Rose's restaurant, Adrift, is the must-get reservation on the Northern Neck. Here, Rose serves whatever inspires him from the local ingredients he brings in each week. 'Fresh is essential' is the mantra he learned while working at The Inn at Little Washington, and it now forms his own cooking philosophy: 'fin to scale, nose to tail, roots to leaf.' On a mission to elevate the palates of locals and visitors, Rose knows some diners move faster than others. So, if raw oysters with kimchi-apple sorbet are not your thing, there are options for more conventional tastes, like Italian Night on Tuesdays and Burger Night on Wednesdays.
It's no hyperbole to say cousins Travis and Ryan Croxton single-handedly revived Virginia oystering, a once-bustling industry that was nearly extinct when the Croxtons launched Rappahannock Oyster Co. in 2005. Their oysters are now served at top spots around the country, but there's nowhere better to enjoy them than the restaurant at their oyster farm. At Merroir, diners can gaze at the river while enjoying seafood plucked from it. 'Watch the sunset here,' said Rose. 'It's a beautiful location.'
The Tides Inn's renovations also transformed its time-worn dining room into Salt & Meadow, a dazzling restaurant that opened in 2024 with a new look and culinary approach. Wall-to-wall windows and a fresh color scheme of blue hues are designed to bring the outside in for a coastal vibe. New executive chef Kyle Perkins stresses local sourcing and fresh ingredients, including the addition of the property's own farm. 'I love what Kyle is bringing to the community,' said Rose. Even better, you don't have to be an inn guest to enjoy Salt & Meadow's beautiful setting while enjoying a drink at the bar or a meal in the restaurant. Kayaking during sunset in Belle Isle State Park.
Sarah Hauser/Virginia Tourism Corporation
Serene enough for a threatened insect species—that could be the marketing pitch for this 104-acre natural area preserve on the Chesapeake Bay. The northeastern beach tiger beetle's inability to endure human disturbance has wiped it out everywhere except three remote corners of the U.S., one of which is Hughlett Point. The state's method to protect the beetle from humans is its parking lot, which fits just 11 cars. When the lot is full, the preserve is full. After a short hike through a loblolly pine forest to the beach, there's a feeling of near-complete detachment from the rest of the world. 'I can't put it into words,' said Rose. 'Go and you'll understand.'
For those who prefer more activity, Belle Isle State Park's hiking trails, fishing, and bike and kayak rentals await. With seven miles of shoreline, the 892-acre park has plenty of space to explore tidal wetlands interspersed with farmland and upland forests.
The Northern Neck is surrounded by so much water, it would be a shame not to spend time on it. That's where Sweet Sea Charters comes in. When she's not mentoring aspiring female sailors, Morgan Fraczkowski is escorting guests around waterways on Sweet Aria , her 33-foot Endeavour. Guests can choose a package experience or design a custom tour that might begin with a pickup from a coastal Airbnb or marina, and then include sightseeing, waterfront barhopping, or dolphin-watching. To top it off, the yacht serves Boat Boxes with food prepared by Rose himself.
For Rose, nothing feels more like the Northern Neck than the drive down Route 695 to its eastern tip, Windmill Point. The road transitions from pine trees to bayberries to marshland until reaching a small beach. Rose says the drive itself is worthwhile, but if you go during the summer, there's a tiki bar to reward those who find it.
Though there's not much nightlife on the Northern Neck, Camp may be the closest thing. On weekends from the spring through fall, the private event venue opens to the public. Huddle around fire pits under the stars while enjoying live music, food, and drinks. Colonial Beach is located at the northern tip of Virginia's Northern Neck and is one of the few remaining small seaport towns on the Potomac River.
David Lipshaw/Virginia Tourism Corporation
While the Northern Neck never feels crowded, summer is its busiest time. Late spring and early fall offer optimal tranquility. Early November brings the nearby Urbanna Oyster Festival. While 50,000 people swarm Urbanna for the festival, the Northern Neck is a good base away from the festival crowds, just short trip across the Rappahannock.
Remote escapes, by definition, are hard to reach, but the Northern Neck is accessible from a few cities. Richmond is roughly 76 miles west and Norfolk 88 miles south. There's also water everywhere for those who travel by boat. But once on land, you'll need a car. There's no public transportation, not even taxis or ride-share apps.