From Kyiv to Dubai: Meet the Ukrainian chef serving up five-star cuisine in the UAE
As soon as you set foot inside Dubai's latest high-end Ukrainian restaurant, YOY Neo Bistro, you get an immediate glimpse into the creative genius of Chef Yurii Kovryzhenko.
Inspired by culinary travels spanning France, Italy, London, Seoul, and the Seychelles—including time in a monastery and two European culinary schools—his vast experience materializes in a menu that defies geographical boundaries.
'I have collected tastes from around the world and brought them here to Dubai,' said Kovryzhenko, adding that he sees his role as a 'storyteller,' sharing with guests some of his warmest childhood memories from Ukraine through the language of gastronomy. 'At YOY, our goal is to honor the richness of local ingredients and bring new perspectives to them through a global lens.'
The recycled plastic installation draping across the ceiling resembles a cerebral membrane—a fitting metaphor for the intellectual gastronomy below—while nodding to the venue's sustainability aspirations. Housed on the second floor of Shangri-La Hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road, YOY delivers an experience that transcends traditional fine dining.
The restaurant's interpretation of Ukrainian classics reveals Kovryzhenko's innovative approach. Take the reimagined pork lard—a Ukrainian staple cleverly adapted for Dubai using young coconut, marinated for 48 hours with garlic and herbs. It's this kind of adaptation that defines the menu.
The seafood offerings showcase the chef's global perspective. A standout dish born from his time in the Seychelles features locally smoked Omani tuna, paired with mango chutney and a precise lime sauce.
Another notable creation, influenced by his Korean sojourn, presents scallops in a complex 13-ingredient marinade featuring house-made vinegar.
Perhaps the most compelling dishes are those that carry personal history. The Napoleon cake dessert, served in a vintage-style porcelain teacup, recreates a childhood memory of the chef's mother serving leftover cake pieces.
Reimagined with bourbon vanilla custard, organic strawberries, and strawberry foam, it bridges nostalgia with innovation while honoring the simplicity of homegrown flavors.
Drawing from memories of his grandfather's cellar, Kovryzhenko also brings centuries-old Ukrainian fermentation heritage to life. Signature creations include grape kimchi, blending traditional techniques with Asian influences gained during his travels.
Another dish with a twist is the foie gras, fermented with pink salt, black pepper, and alcohol-free brandy, which is paired with cryogenically frozen raspberries and fresh raspberry sauce for a balance of richness and freshness.
Kovryzhenko's borsch, an ode to the Ukrainian culinary soul, has earned praise from international media, including the Michelin Guide, as has another standout dish—his pigeon with semolina porridge and sour cherries—a nod to his training at the Ritz Ecole Escoffier in Paris.
What sets YOY apart is not just its technical excellence but its storytelling. Each dish emerges from a particular moment in Kovryzhenko's journey—from bankruptcy to culinary success, from traditional Ukrainian roots to global innovation. The result is a menu that feels both personally authentic and globally relevant.
His journey to leading chef wasn't straightforward.
'I was bankrupt. I lost everything,' he said, describing his path from sculptor to chef. 'I started looking for myself... and I found myself in the kitchen.'
The restaurant's commitment to sustainability goes beyond decoration. The kitchen transforms typically discarded ingredients into delicacies—a practice that feels neither forced nor preachy but rather an integral part of the culinary philosophy.
'We're committed to sustainability, zero-waste practices, and presenting guests with familiar and completely new flavors,' said Kovryzhenko.
And why Dubai? 'I was looking for the place to open something new, with new tastes,' he said. 'It's an amazing city, an amazing place.'
This enthusiasm translates directly onto the plate, where traditional Ukrainian recipes meet modern techniques and global influences.
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