Do I really need a perimenopause moisturiser?

Telegraph

10-03-2025

Plummeting hormones have much to answer for – enter the jowls, wrinkles, crepey skin and dry, dull skin tone triggered during perimenopause that only become more pronounced as our hormones and collagen reserves deplete further during menopause.
Beauty brands have quickly caught on to the fact we're all becoming more aware of how our hormones can affect our skin too – this year has seen a raft of menopause-specific skincare launches – from hormone-balancing moisturisers and serums to eye creams and cleansers. Not to mention the burgeoning social media trend that's seen some women applying HRT oestrogen gel directly to their faces in a bid to improve their perimenopausal skin problems.
'This trend is concerning,' warns Dr Sonia Khorana, a dermatology expert and cosmetic doctor. 'Oestrogen gel isn't designed for facial use and could cause unwanted and even dangerous hormonal and dermatological effects. There's no proven benefit that HRT gel improves wrinkles and using it on the face increases the risk of health conditions, as well as acne, pigmentation and facial hair, too.'
So whilst this extreme measure is clearly a no-no, there's no denying menopause specific skincare is having a moment, with added ingredients like phytoestrogens and soy isoflavones touted to help address the dryness and hormonal skin problems associated with perimenopause. So do we really need to throw out our existing skincare and invest in menopause-specific products instead?
The British Skin Foundation advises proceeding with caution. 'Menopausal creams may promise to rejuvenate ageing skin and combat dryness. However, the evidence supporting these claims is often anecdotal or based on limited studies… you do not necessarily need a 'menopause' moisturiser.'
And what about the wrinkle-improving products many of us are already using – aren't these good enough for midlife? 'Absolutely. Many well-formulated products already contain key ingredients to target perimenopausal skin concerns, such as retinoids, peptides, antioxidants and hydrators, without needing a 'menopause' label,' says Khorana. 'Menopause-targeted skincare can be beneficial if people aren't sure where to start with their skin in midlife, but it's not necessary if you're already using products that already address skin ageing concerns – so always be mindful of falling for misleading menopause product claims and 'menowashing' in skincare.'
I tried the latest peri-menopause skincare to combat my own midlife skin concerns. Are they worth the investment?
Key concern: Saggy skin
At 40, jowls weren't on my radar, but fast-forward to 44 and my cheeks are heading towards my disappearing jawline. 'No amount of skincare can prevent saggy skin,' explains Khorana, 'but incorporating a good-quality retinal or retinol at night to help stimulate collagen production to increase firmness and also a brightening antioxidant product to help protect against age-accelerating free radicals during the day are key.'
Made of More Brightening Day Shield, £58, Made of More; SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic, £165, SkinCeuticals
For daytime, I've been trying new perimenopause skincare brand Made of More's Brightening Day Shield, which claims to 'tackle the rollercoaster ride of dermatological symptoms associated with fluctuating hormones' using antioxidant cannabigerol (CBG), hemp seed oil, peptides and Superox-C, a form of Vitamin C. Whilst this lightweight gel sunk in beautifully, I didn't notice it having a more significant impact on skin firmness and tone than my long-time favourite antioxidant, SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic, which, although has a heftier price tag, is clinically-proven to help firm and protect skin from environmental aggressors. I come back to this product time again because it works.
Key concern: Deep lines and wrinkles
There's a buzz around peptides right now – the proteins in skincare that help encourage deep lines to relax so wrinkles are less noticeable. 'Whilst collagen peptides won't have the same effect as Botox, regular use signals your skin cells to make collagen, which can help skin appear less wrinkly over time,' explains Khorana.
Lixirskin Night Switch Phytoestrogen & Peptide, £32, lixirskin; Meder Myo-Fix, £99, Meder by Dr Tiina Meder
Given my crow's feet have been deepening steadily, I've been experimenting with different peptide formulas. Lixirskin's Menopausal Skin Support Night Switch Phytoestrogen & Peptide contains collagen peptides and phytoestrogen which is claimed to help boost collagen production and elasticity in menopausal skin. 'Some studies may suggest phytoestrogens do this, but their ability to significantly affect hormone levels is debatable since they have low skin penetration,' Khorana explains.
I don't feel this product has much-improved my crow's feet, so I've turned to the reformulated Meder Myo-Fix, which contains concentrated muscle-relaxing peptides and can be applied just to your wrinkly areas – for me, that's around my eyes and forehead. And it works; these areas just don't crinkle as much anymore.
Key concern: Dull skin and discolouration
Pigmentation and melasma are all fun side effects of perimenopause, so it's been a learning curve discovering products that serve me when it comes to emerging brown patches. 'For discolouration and pigmentation, vitamin A products like retinol or even dermatologist-prescribed tretinoin (medical-grade vitamin A) can help improve and refine skin texture and tone, smoothing lines at the same time,' explains Khorana.
Renew+Me Serum in a Cream, £29.99, Renew+Me; RoC Retinol Capsules, £35.99, RoC
Whilst I'm sceptical about menopause-specific skincare, I've been using mid-life targeted Renew+Me Serum in a Cream, a monthly tretinoin serum subscription for six months now, and can hand on heart say my skin tone has never looked glowier or more even. It contains azelaic acid to target brown spots too so I no longer have pigmentation on my cheeks or forehead. For a commitment-free alternative, RoC Retinol Capsules contain an exceptional quality retinol and the measured nightly dose ensures you don't use too much or little.
Key concern: Midlife acne
One thing no one tells you about perimenopause is that, despite your oestrogen depleting, you can still get spots like a teenager. Pores can appear larger and baggier too. 'Thorough cleansing with gentle products containing salicylic acid and niacinamide will help balance and exfoliate prevent mid-life breakouts,' explains Khorana.
Raaie Manuka Honey Enzyme Cleanser, £65, Raaie; Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream, £56, Dr Jart+
I'm generally sensitive to acids but I've found that double-cleansing with Raaie Manuka Honey Enzyme Cleanser helps prevent breakouts – it's designed for mid-life skin but it isn't a menopause-specific product. It contains gentle enzymes to help loosen dead skin cells and leaves skin bright, smooth and comfortable. To ensure my skin barrier stays protected, I'm devoted to Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream, which contains ceramides to deeply hydrate and prevent sensitivity – essential for minimising skin dryness which can increase in midlife.