Famed Malaysian chef Darren Chin receives knighthood from the French Republic
On a warm Wednesday night last week, about 20 people are gathered at the home of the French ambassador to Malaysia, His Excellency Axel Cruau.
The atmosphere is convivial and filled with a surge of anticipation, as the small crowd clamour around Cruau and the man of the moment – famed Malaysian chef Darren Chin, whose face betrays the wealth of emotions he is experiencing.
The reason for this display of emotion from a chef known for his masterful Michelin-starred French food?
Chin is now only the second Malaysian chef to be conferred the Chevalier de l'Ordre du Merite Agricole, or the Order of Agricultural Merit, which is bestowed by the French Republic to individuals who have made outstanding contributions to agriculture, including food and culinary arts.
'It's like a knighthood. You can call him 'Sir',' jokes Cruau, who adds that once a person is made a chevalier, they will have the title for life.
The order of Agricultural Merit was established in 1883 and has three categories: commanders, officers and knights.
Recipients of the knighthood have included Louis Pasteur (who invented pasteurisation) and famed French chef Jacque Pepin.
Chin meanwhile is no less star-studded.
His father David Chin founded the famed Dave's Deli chain of eateries, which Darren helped run.
Darren (third from right) says his family has been instrumental in supporting him throughout his career. (From left) Brother Brian, sister-in-law Honey Leong, wife Nana, Darren, mother Koh Mau Reen and father David Chin. — Photos: ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
Eventually Darren went to Le Cordon Bleu in Paris to pursue his love of French gastronomy.
Upon his return to Malaysia in 2014, he started DC by Darren Chin, which champions French cuisine and has since earned a Michelin star off the back of his sheer talent and hard work.
It is this and so much more that cemented to Cruau that Darren was the perfect person to nominate for this rare title.
'Darren is an icon in French gastronomy here in Kuala Lumpur. Actually I've been here for two-and-a-half years and one of the first events I attended was the Michelin Star reveal in KL where he was awarded a star,' Cruau says.
'So I knew him from the start. And I had the occasion to taste his food.
'But it was more his personality that was appealing. He's a philosopher of food and of transitioning his knowledge to younger chefs.
'So I said, 'Well, this is exactly the kind of person who deserves to be awarded the title, because Darren is also someone who is close to France and the spirit and values of French gastronomy.
'So for me, it was pure logic that we should ask for him to get the award,' says Cruau.
To qualify for the chevalier category of the Order of Agricultural Merit, a person has to be at least 30 years and have been in service for 15 years.
The nomination for Order of Agricultural Merit also has to be validated by France's Minister of Agriculture and Food who has to sign off on the person selected for the title.
In Malaysia, Cruau says he wanted to restart the process of awarding these titles when he took over as the ambassador as the title hadn't really been administered to Malaysians.
While Cruau nominated Darren for the title, the eventual approval has to come from France's Minister of Agriculture and Food.
'In Malaysia, it wasn't really being done and I thought it was unfair not to recognise Malaysian chefs who are French-trained and French-inspired.
'Because it's a way for France to work with the chefs and honour them,' he says.
Darren meanwhile is over-the-moon but says he is still in disbelief.
''I just cannot believe it. It means so much to me to get this recognition from the French government,' he says.
In many ways, Darren believes this is further inspiration to keep going strong and continue to hone his skills and appreciation for French gastronomy.
'Essentially French food culture has so much of a history and so much of a background that it's undeniable. I feel not just proud as a Malaysian cooking French food, but I feel extremely proud of how I have been able to fully express my heart and my soul through my food.
'So, lastly, I would just like to quote something. 'You are only as good as your last service', and in the hospitality world, it's only moving forward and never looking back,' says Darren, smiling.
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