Inside Nobu's Global Sake Program

Forbes

2 days ago

Nobu on London's Portman Square.
In the world of upscale lifestyle dining, few restaurant and hospitality groups command the international presence and cultural cachet of Nobu. Co-founded by chef Nobu Matsuhisa, actor Robert De Niro, and film producer Meir Teper, the brand is known for its high-end Japanese cuisine and supporting hotel business. After three decades of refinement, the offering is both casual but sophisticated, while Nobu's culinary identity, with its fun Peruvian influence is unmistakable. Underpinning it all is a deep and deliberate focus on sake.
Sake, is a Japanese fermented drink made from polished rice, water, yeast, and koji mold. Its flavor profile can vary significantly, from light and crisp to rich and full-bodied, making it a highly versatile companion to Japanese cuisine. At Nobu, guests are encouraged to celebrate that versatility by pairing specific dishes, such as delicate sashimi or umami-rich miso cod, with different sake styles. While the pairings can be fascinating, it's also an opportunity to get your head around the differences between, say, a Ginjo and a Junmai.
At every Nobu restaurant and hotel around the world, one producer dominates the sake list however - Hokusetsu, an artisanal brewery from Sado Island, a remote and solitary area of northern Japan. The brewery is privately owned and operated by the Hazu family and has been crafting sake under demanding winter conditions for generations. It was founded in 1871, and since has harnessed the natural characteristics of the territory. 'Delicious sake cannot be made without fresh air and clean water' notes the brewery. 'Sake rice, the raw ingredient, doesn't grow well until the temperature drops. We have ideal conditions for that. This place is perfect.'
Hokusetsu's team point out that not only do they cherish traditional values, but, also strive to make sake that people oversees will enjoy.
The Hokusetsu Sake Brewery on Sado Island
The story behind Nobu's partnership with Hokusetsu goes back some time. In 1987, famed Japanese rock musician Eikichi Yazawa gifted Chef Nobu a bottle of Hokusetsu sake at his Beverly Hills restaurant, Matsuhisa. Struck by its quality, Chef Nobu reached out to his distributors and soon arranged an introduction to Mr. Hazu, owner of the brewery. What began as a professional agreement quickly grew into a lasting friendship and creative partnership. Over nearly 40 years, their collaboration has evolved into a deeper relationship. 'We're connected at a level that goes beyond a business partnership, we're like brothers.' The Nobu team reaffirms this, pointing out it comities to be a 'thoughtful and ongoing collaboration built on shared passion and trust.'
Nobu San has invested in a high quality sake partnership with Hokusetsu on Sado island.
Over more than three decades, the two have worked closely to curate a range of sakes that complement Nobu's food and reflect its values. 'Sake is a core part of Japanese culture,' says Chef Nobu. 'It was important we got Nobu's sake just right. It is made with the best ingredients and utmost care.' The brewery also feels that the correct balance has been struck, adding that, 'Hokusetsu's sake doesn't intrude on the cooking, but it still manages to assert itself. It complements and enhances the taste of the cooking.'
At a time when many sake producers are expanding into the United States and Europe, Nobu has remained resolutely tied to Japan. All Nobu-branded sakes are still produced exclusively by the Hokusetsu brewery on Sado Island.
Of course, each territory has its own quirks when it comes to the import and distribution of each product. The Nobu group works with Japanese import specialists to distribute Hokusetsu sake internationally, ensuring that quality is preserved and a full range of expressions can be accessed. This includes many different classifications such as Junmai (pure rice sake with no added alcohol), Daiginjo (highly polished and fragrant), and Nigori (cloudy, with a creamy texture). It also includes custom selections created in collaboration with Chef Nobu himself.
Janju Watanabe, chief brewer at Hokusetsu elaborates. 'Food is a language shared through the world and through good sake, food can bridge the gap between cultures. Thanks to Nobu san Hokuetsu's sake has been enjoyed by people all over the world.'
Nobu San in London
While the source is singular, the presentation varies. Nobu's locations in Europe and the Middle East often carry a more curated selection, typically offering 8 to 10 sakes. In London, particularly at Nobu Hotel Portman Square, the offering is even more expansive, with up to 15 expressions at any given time. Some have the benefit of age and are very, showcasing both Hokusetsu's craftsmanship and more recently, the evolving sophistication of London's sake audience.
Among the most distinctive is the Daiginjo YK 35 Enshinbunri, a sake processed using a centrifuge for extraordinary texture. It is full of fresh citrus, melon, and delicate umami, delivered with silk-like precision. Its sibling, the Daiginjo YK 35 Nigori Enshinbunri, maintains that same flavor profile but with a fine milky texture that pays homage to traditional unfiltered styles. For those drawn to complexity, the Cho Daiginjo YK 35 offers notes of lychee, melon, and marzipan. It is made from Yamada Nishiki rice (one of the top grades of Japanese rice used) and polished down to 35% of its original size.
Other offerings, such as the Honjozo Yukinohibiki, strike a spicier, more savory chord, with pepper and citrus notes that work beautifully when served warm. A slightly higher temperature will give it more sharpness and a clean, refreshing taste. Moreover, those who prefer some of the mellow elegance that comes with maturation, the Onkagushu 10-Year-Old is delicate, dry with mellow, evolved aromas.
Ginjo 71, one of the most popular Sakes on the list.
In truth, across all locations, the brand considers two expressions as cornerstones of the program. The Nobu Private Selection, a Junmai Daiginjo handpicked by Chef Nobu, reflects the essence of the collaboration, ie. a bespoke sake chosen to enhance the food. 'Each sake offers something different and can be paired with different dishes,' says Chef Nobu. 'It elevates the dining experience.'
Another standout, the Ginjo 71, features a vibrant label designed by Chef Nobu's daughter Yoshiko-san and offers bright citrus and melon aromas with a refined palate. It was sourced as an approachable, yet sophisticated expression of Hokusetsu's house style. It has quickly become one of the most versatile sakes on the menu, balancing acidity with full-bodied richness - an ideal starting point for newcomers.
In many ways, Nobu's approach to sake mirrors its culinary ethos: deeply connected with Japanese tradition, but always open to reinterpretation. Chef Nobu was among the first in the West to serve premium sake cold, in bamboo pitchers, at a time when warm sake was the norm. 'With high-quality sakes I recommend you drink them cold' he says. 'Once customers have had this sake, they can't go back to normal sake.'
NEW YORK, NY - MAY 30: Chef Nobu Matsuhisa (L) and Robert De Niro speak onstage during the Nobu Downtown Sake Ceremony at Nobu Downtown on May 30, 2017 in New York City. (Photo byfor Nobu Restaurants )
The first Nobu restaurant opened in New York in 1994, and the first hotel followed in 2013. Today, the company is an impressive hospitality force with venues all over the world. Nobu turned 31 last year, an impressive milestone in an industry with a high failure rate and at the constant mercy of fashion. The brand's longevity is matched by remarkable loyalty though. Guests return not just for the food but for the entire Nobu hospitality experience, which they associate with high-end, cosmopolitan lifestyle and a high octane atmosphere.
'Our sake represents my journey,' says Chef Nobu. 'It honors the past but looks forward.' In London the pouring of sake, all the way from the remote island of Sado and toasted in the lively ambience of the Portman Square site, often by guests experiencing sake for the first time, is an echo of that journey. Anyone fast tracking themselves to the top shelf should ask for a bottle of the Daiginjo Black Label.