The perfect holiday in Gran Canaria, the Atlantic's year-round island of adventure

Telegraph

2 days ago

With a gilt-edged southern coast, a capital city sculpted by conquests, and a dramatic interior that sets the heart racing both visually and physically, this 'continent in miniature' offers a veritable pick-n-mix of climates, attractions and activities to keep four million or so annual visitors returning year after year.
Relaxation is the number one draw, and there's plenty of that to be had on the sandy beaches and undulating dunes of Gran Canaria 's south, as well as in the picnic and barbecue areas of the mountains, or the sleepy fishing villages of the north.
Of course, there's a faster side to the island too. Clubbers are drawn to the 120-bpm pulse of the island's nightlife in Maspalomas and Las Palmas, while bikers, hikers and others of a more salubrious nature wheel and walk between gorgeous hillside villages like Teror and Tejeda.
For more Gran Canaria inspiration, see our guides to the island's best hotels, restaurants, things to do and beaches.
How to spend your weekend
Day one: morning
Grab a granola bowl and a speciality coffee at the Cool Beans café in Las Palmas's Plaza de Abad then stroll over to the Casa de Colón museum for opening time at 10am. At this hour you'll have plenty of space to yourself to get clued up on the history of the city and find out how Christopher Columbus spent his time in Gran Canaria before he hit the high seas on his voyage of discovery.
Afternoon
Leave time to browse (and taste) the local wines, cheeses and honey at Vegueta Market (closes at 2pm), a tantalising amuse-bouche before a lunch of gourmet Canarian tapas at the excellent Piscos y Buches restaurant within the Mercado de Puerto (port market).
Boost the energy levels after a post-lunch slump with a dip in the Atlantic off the almost two-mile-long Playa de Las Canteras, one of four urban beaches in the capital. After drying off, appreciate the marine life without getting wet at the tremendous Poema del Mar aquarium.
Head out of town for a visit to the Cueva Pintada Museum and Archaeological Park in Gáldar. Excavations in 1987 revealed a village dating back to the sixth century that housed the original inhabitants of Gran Canaria. The showpiece is a beautifully preserved cave house complete with ancient wall paintings.
Late
For one of the most spectacular sunset views on the island, book a table at the Rooftop & Terrace Aloe bar back in Las Palmas for an aperitif (they do a mean house cocktail – the Aloe Fizz).
Opt for a tasting menu at one of the city's three Michelin-starred restaurants; the trendy Tabaiba and the classically elegant Restaurante Poemas add flamboyant spins to Canarian dishes, while the contemporary Bevir serves up seafood stunners.
For a nightcap, the Dissareli Club is one of the more sophisticated late-night hangouts featuring shishas and comfy seating. It's also conveniently adjacent to Las Palmas Casino if a flutter floats your boat. There are also bars aplenty along the Playa de Las Canteras boardwalk and around Plaza Farray in the Guanarteme district. Aficionados of the amber nectar might want to head to Te lo Dije Pérez with its range of over 250 beers.
There aren't too many nightclubs in the capital, but the two-storey Chester Las Palmas is one of the hottest right now. Bear in mind club life in Gran Canaria doesn't really get going until after midnight, so if you and your partner head out too early you could be the only couple in a two-person rave.
Day two: morning
Drive along the scenic GC-15 road through the interior of the island to the sugar-cube village of Tejeda. Take in the views of the sacred Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga monoliths with a coffee and an artisan almond biscuit or palmera chocolate (chocolate palm tree) from the naughty-but-nice Dulceria Nublo patisserie. After a walk around the historic centre, drive 10 minutes to the Bentayga Interpretation Centre to learn more about this hallowed area.
Take a detour (and a jumper) through the pine forest to the Picos de las Nieves, the second highest point on the island at 1,949 metres (6,394ft). On a clear day you can see Mount Teide poking above Tenerife.
Afternoon
Head south to Fataga in the 'Valley of a Thousand Palms', another traditional hillside hamlet with narrow lanes, stupendous views and a handful of shops selling crafts, jars of homemade marmalade, and aloe vera.
Visit the cave hamlet within the Guayadeque Ravine, then onto the Maspalomas Dunes, a 1,000-acre area of constantly shifting sands, palms and ponds that form the southern tip of the island. Take a dip in the ocean or hop on a camel for a lollop through the sand before wetting your whistle at one of the promenade bars. For lunch, try the award-winning tuna tacos at El Senador beach bar next to the 19th-century lighthouse.
Late
Explore the beach and harbour town of Puerto de Mogán, arguably the island's prettiest and classiest resort area. In what is known as 'Little Venice', wooden bridges span narrow canals, while bougainvillea arches over the walkways and weaves mauve threads through the balconies of colourful waterfront houses. Here, families huddle around the menus of quayside eateries as yachts and excursion boats jingle in the modern marina.
Spot whales and dolphins on a sunset boat cruise from Puerto de Mogán or Puerto Rico harbour, then bag yourself a waterfront table for fresh seafood at locals' favourite La Cofradia de Pescadores or share the renowned paella at Patio Canario.
If you're up for pushing the boat out further, you can party till late at Café del Mar or Chester Meloneras, or hit the late bars and gay haunts of the Yumbo Centre in Maspalomas.
How to get there and how to get around
Gran Canaria Airport (LPA) is served by a whole host of airlines including British Airways, Jet2, Ryanair and EasyJet. All offer direct flights from most major UK hubs. The airport is a 20-minute drive from the capital, Las Palmas. Taxis are widely available, but for exploring the island, hiring a car is recommended. The island is also well-connected by buses if driving on the right fills you with dread.
When to go
Gran Canaria has two peak seasons – December to February, thanks to north Europeans fleeing the cold; summer when the sun worshippers and nightlife crowds arrive in July and August.
Prices start decreasing in March and April, and the ocean remains warm during the early autumn months of September and October, when many local festivals take place.
May and June are best for bargains and more elbow room. This is when the interior is at its prettiest and most floral, so great for hikers.
Get to know the destination
Las Palmas and the north: the capital does all that capitals are meant to do, plus some. Yes, you get the culture, the history and the major shopping areas, but you can also take advantage of one of the nicest urban beaches in Europe.
The interior: like a cosy mystery, the island's interior entices with the drama of cave homes and canyonesque scenery, the mysteries of ancient monuments, and the picturesque settings of hillside hamlets.
The south: Gran Canaria's pop star of beach resorts, including – from east to west – Maspalomas for beach buffs, Arguineguin for that local vibe, brash Puerto Rico, and stylish Puerto de Mogán.
Where to stay
Luxury living
A gentle colonial elegance rules Seaside Grand Hotel Residencia, a verdant oasis of sophistication in Maspalomas. Handsome gardens surround a saltwater pool and a serene spa and massage area caters for those seeking hands-on indulgence. The food is as spectacular as the flora while exquisite rooms in two-storey villas ooze tropical refinement.
Designer digs
Bohemia Suites & Spa is a trendy property overlooking Playa de Inglés beach is a beacon of boutique amongst a swathe of more traditional hotels. The jazzy striped exterior is just a hint of the hip that lies within, where rich purples and reds rule from the basement spa to the rooftop restaurant. Think cool, contemporary and very, very friendly.
Budget bolthole
If you've ever been to Scotland, you'll understand there's a trade off for all that natural beauty – rain. Much like one of the wettest areas of Gran Canaria, Vega de San Mateo, which is also home to one of Gran Canaria's original boutique hotels, Hotel Rural Las Calas.
Know before you go
British Embassy/Consulate: C Luis Morote 6, Las Palmas; 0034 928 262508
Tourist office: Calle León y Castillo 17, Las Palmas; grancanaria.com
Emergency services: 112
Currency: Euro (€)
Telephone code from abroad: +34
Time difference: GMT+0
Travel time from London: approximately 4.5 hours by plane
Local laws and etiquette: dress modestly when visiting religious sites. Don't drive in flip-flops.
Accessibility: Gran Canaria is very accessible, with many hotels and attractions offering facilities for travellers with disabilities.
About our expert
Author and travel writer Joe Cawley lives in the Canarian hills with his family and other wildlife. He moved there from Bolton in 1991, when, for want of anything else to do, he bought a bar and restaurant before becoming a full-time author and travel writer. He loses no sleep over this.