For centuries, locals have been taking the waters of Bad Gastein—here's why you should too
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Morning light creeps over central Austria's Hohe Tauern Alps, spotlighting summits one by one. As our yoga group launches into asanas, the valley below is bathed gold. There can be few lovelier spots to practise sun salutations than here, on a platform high in the forest of Bad Gastein, with a ringside seat of the mountains and within earshot of the town's waterfall. 'It's a magical place,' says Annette Söhnlein, smiling as radiant as the new day.
She's leading a class at Haus Hirt, the Alpine-chic lodge where I'm staying for the week. Once a refuge for writers like Stefan Zweig and Thomas Mann, the 1920s building was redesigned in 2000, with contemporary art and rooms designed to frame the view. 'Here in the embrace of tall trees, every breath is filled with mountain air,' says Annette. 'Our senses are awakened by the mountains and vast sky, and the sound of the nearby waterfall.'
The 1,119ft-high, mist-cloaked waterfall is as if God whipped the plug out: the torrent rages through forest and dives over ragged cliffs into three turquoise pools as it plunges into town, splitting it in two. Its source is ice melt from Hohe Tauern National Park, Austria's first and biggest, spreading 717sq miles across the country's highest peaks and glaciers. The water rolls down the mountains, through gorges and streams, reaching Bad Gastein in its purest form.
Over 3,000 years, this mineral-rich water has also filtered through rock. Five million litres of it bubble to the surface every day at 17 thermal springs, at temperatures between 44C and 47C. Romans, emperors, aristocrats, artists — all dunked in these waters over the centuries seeking a cure for their ailments. 'Here in the embrace of tall trees, every breath is filled with mountain air,' says Annette Söhnlein, yoga instructor at the Alpine-chic lodge, Haus Hirt. 'Our senses are awakened by the mountains and vast sky, and the sound of the nearby waterfall.' Photograph by Alamy; imagebroker.com
The water made Bad Gastein's fortunes, as reflected in its architecture. Chandelier-lit, marble-clad belle époque villas cling to the town's sheer, wooded rock faces, like a miniature Vienna transposed onto the wildest of Alpine backdrops. For a while, with taking the waters no longer in fashion, the resort slipped into anonymity. But recently, interest in one of Austria's most unique spa towns has surged. Hotels are again tapping into the waters, from Haus Hirt to the recently revamped Straubinger, with its rooftop infinity pool, and the Cōmodo, which offers bespoke treatments.
But this is first and foremost an Alpine resort, and the mountains tearing across the horizon entice me to head higher. I take the cable car up to 7,220ft Stubnerkogel, where hikers proceed like tightrope walkers on a 450ft-long hanging bridge that rocks in the breeze between the station and a transmission tower. A five-minute walk away, a viewing platform juts out into the void, peering over to glacier-tipped Grossglockner, Austria's highest peak at 3,798m (12,460ft). I head off on a four-hour hike to the nearby resort of Sportgastein, up and over scree fields, wildflower-sprinkled pastures and rocky passes.
The water is ice cold at Bockhartsee, an ink-blue lake cradled by mountains along the way, but I brave a quick, heart-stopping dip. Gold was once mined around this high body of water. Then — legend has it — a dragon covered it in ice and the treasures sank, forever gone.
But there was gold elsewhere. A couple of miles up the valley from Bad Gastein, Radhausberg mountain in the village of Böckstein was the El Dorado of the Alps to medieval miners. By the 17th century, the practice ceased, the ore veins depleted. But the caves were reopened in the 1940s in the hope of discovering rich gold deposits.
Instead, something curious happened: miners emerged from the caves considerably healthier than when they entered. Bad backs, coughs and colds, rashes and rheumatism — all are said to have magically disappeared. The secret? Radon, seeping through the rock fissures and cracks in small, safe quantities, widely believed to boost the immune system. Gold was once mined around the ink-blue waters of Bockharstee lake. Legend has it that a dragon covered the gold in ice and the treasures sank, forever gone. Photograph by Alamy Images; Room the Agency
The mines are now the Gasteiner Heilstollen health centre. On a visit, I get my blood pressure checked, strip to my bathing suit, pop on a bathrobe and board a little yellow train chugging to a chamber deep in the bowels of the mountain. I'm allotted a lounger and sit in silence with strangers as the hammam-like heat of around 40C gradually intensifies. I'm there for an hour, but a minimum two-week treatment plan is needed to reap real benefits, I'm told.
Still, I make the most of my stay in Bad Gastein and, back at Haus Hirt, head to the spa. 'I'm going to leave you to relax here,' says Evelyn Ikrath, who grew up in the resort and now manages the hotel with architect husband Ike. She ushers me into a dimly lit chamber, where a sunken bath is filled with radon-rich thermal water. 'You might feel a little lightheaded when you get out.'
Actually, I feel as though I'm drifting on air, with a pleasant heat that penetrates to my core. I wrap up in a bathrobe and watch the valley fall into shadow. Opting for a pack of mineral-rich mud, I'm then slathered in the stuff, wrapped up cocoon-like and left to float on a waterbed.
By the time I leave the spa to dress for dinner, the first stars are blinking in the sky. I can no longer see the waterfall, but as I push open my balcony door and peer out into the night, I can hear its flow. Now, as always in Bad Gastein, everything comes back to water. And what special water it is. It's a scenic 1h30m train ride from Salzburg to Bad Gastein; renovations to this line should finish in July 2025. Doubles at Haus Hirt from £240 include half board, use of the spa and yoga sessions. The Gastein Card gives free use of local buses, free guided half- and full-day hikes, and substantial discounts at local thermal baths and Gasteiner Heilstollen — it's available to all guests staying in Bad Gastein.
This story was created with the support of Haus Hirt and Bad Gastein/Gasteinertal Tourism. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
National Geographic
an hour ago
- National Geographic
Queen Victoria loved this UK island—and so will you
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Package all that's wonderful — and quite frankly quirky — about England, set it adrift in the English Channel, and you'll end up with the Isle of Wight. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it's the UK's largest island and a microcosm of its heritage — all thatched cottages, centuries-old pubs and undulating landscapes. Some of the Victorian era's most influential figures came here to relax and be inspired, and while remnants of their time here remain, the island is hardly preserved in aspic. Today, award-winning distilleries, cool hotels and Michelin-recommended restaurants abound, along with a thriving festival scene. The only way there is by boat, so you're forced to slow down immediately, setting your watch to 'island time'. Make the most of its sunny disposition in summer or come during shoulder season for the walking festivals in May and October, when the beaches are quieter, too. Actors frequently appear in role at the Osborne House, so you may well spot Victoria or Albert gliding down a quiet corridor. Photograph by Alamy Images, Chris Howes Where are the best places to discover the island's quirks? Known to the ancient Romans as 'Vectis', the island appears in the 11th-century Domesday Book as the 'Isle of Wit' — a splendid moniker for a place Queen Victoria would later make her home. Her royal residence, Osborne House, was built in the style of an Italianate palazzo, and is full of 19th-century whimsy. Pay a visit to the Indian-style Durbar Room, an extravagant banqueting hall decorated with intricate plasterwork and pendant lamps. Actors frequently appear in role here, so you may well spot Victoria or Albert gliding down a quiet corridor. You might also spot a member of the island's thriving red squirrel population in the groves leading to Osborne's private beach. To improve your chances, spend a few hours at Parkhurst Forest, an ancient wildlife haven near Newport. Further west lie Yarmouth and the neighbouring village of Freshwater, where Alfred Lord Tennyson once said the air was worth 'sixpence a pint'. The poet laureate (1853-1892) spent many years at nearby Farringford House, a gothic manor surrounded by ornamental gardens. A keen walker, he was known for cutting a dash in his distinctive black cloak over the westerly downs, where you'll find hiking trails and a grand monument named in his honour. Otherwise, explore the historical and contemporary exhibitions on show at Dimbola Museum and Galleries — once home to pioneering Victorian photographer Julia Margaret Cameron. Along with Tennyson and Lewis Carroll, she was a member of 'The Freshwater Circle', a group of bohemian artists and writers who gathered in this coastal corner to discuss their work. A selection of homemade chutneys and sauces stand on display at The Garlic Farm, where you can pick up groceries or try unusual dishes like chocolate and black garlic ice cream. Photograph by Alamy Images, Steven Hawkins Photography The Isle of Wight is home to around 3,000 red squirrels. Where should I stay on the island? West Wight, with its postcard-perfect Needles — a series of three soaring chalk stacks — is ideal for nature-lovers. Overlooking the pebble beach at Freshwater Bay, the newly renovated Albion Hotel has elegant rooms with sage-green interiors and Victorian-style furnishings. Call in for drinks at the nearby Travelling Tavern, a repurposed double-decker bus known for attracting a local crowd. Otherwise, stay in one of the three cosy rooms at family-run Bay Boutique Bed and Breakfast, popping down for their fabulous full English come morning. What about local produce? The Isle of Wight has a balmy microclimate with more hours of sunshine than the UK average, perfect for the island's growers. At The Garlic Farm, you can pick up deli items and try unusual dishes like chocolate and black garlic ice cream (it isn't as pungent as it sounds), watching as red squirrels nibble hazelnuts from feeder boxes. And on the outskirts of Ryde, there's the award-winning Mermaid Gin distillery, the product of which can be sampled at the adjoining Mermaid Bar. The distillery gets its citrus zest from Ventnor Botanic Garden, whose sunny location on the Undercliff allows fruits, flowers and herbs from across the globe to grow outdoors. Trains from London Waterloo run to Lymington in Hampshire, where you can catch the Wightlink ferry to Yarmouth. The rest of the island is easily accessed via Newport bus station. Alternatively, ferries depart from Portsmouth and Southampton to other ports. Stay at the Albion Hotel from £160 or The Bay Boutique Bed and Breakfast from £130, both B&B. This story was created with the help of Visit Isle of Wight and Wightlink. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Yahoo
a day ago
- Yahoo
I stopped drinking when I turned 50. Learning to travel sober was the hardest part.
Drinking used to help Karthika Gupta connect with friends or loosen up in unfamiliar places. Last year, when she turned 50, she decided to go alcohol free. She often misses drinking while traveling, but appreciates waking up clear-headed. I didn't start drinking until I was 25 — late by many standards — but once I did, alcohol quickly became both a social and professional currency. As a management consultant, drinking was part of the job — be it wine during team dinners or Champagne toasts for successful product launches. It was also how I connected with friends, loosened up in unfamiliar places, and celebrated the highs of life on the road Over the years, my passport filled up with stamps from trips where the days often followed the same pattern: explore by day, enjoy a drink or two at night. Warm sake in Japanese izakayas, a pint of Guinness in Dublin to celebrate St. Patrick's Day, and a cold beer after hiking in Patagonia weren't just drinks; they were part of how I celebrated traveling the world. I saw it as a way to immerse myself in local culture. But something shifted the year I turned 50. At first, it was a personal challenge where a "dry trip" extended a little longer to see how I felt. But the longer I stayed alcohol-free, the more curious I became about what else might shift. Could I still feel joy at a celebratory dinner with friends without a glass of wine? Would I feel left out while traveling? Would people look at me differently, or worse, would I look at myself differently? The first test came during a work trip to Switzerland. One night for dinner, we visited Fiescherblick, a boutique hotel in the Bernese Alps. I was surprised to find out they offered a non-alcoholic pairing menu. That night, as the Eiger North Face glowed pink in the evening light, I sat down to one of the most memorable meals of my life. Each course arrived paired with a thoughtfully crafted elixir, like the rhubarb-kombucha aperitif that tingled on my tongue or a chilled berry and basil infusion with a root vegetable medley. Each sip was as intentional and layered as any wine pairing I'd had in the past. I felt more aware and noticed how I slowed down during the meal, relishing every bite and sip. My body felt satiated but never dulled, and there was no fuzziness or brain fog — just the clarity of a crisp Alpine night and the satisfaction of enjoying every bite. Since then, I've continued to travel alcohol-free. Some trips have been easy, but others have been really hard. On an outdoor adventure-filled trip through Northern Ireland, known for its whiskey and beer, I felt discombobulated, like I was missing out on a big part of the local culture. The hardest one was a two-week solo Antarctica cruise, during which the feeling of FOMO was very strong, especially when South America's best wines were served complimentary at dinner. Almost 9 months have passed, and there are still moments when I'm handed a drink and feel a pang of awkwardness or worse, when someone asks, "Why not just have one?" with a puzzled smile. Social drinking is so normalized in travel that choosing to opt out can feel like rebellion. But my choice has also been liberating. I've learned to start my days earlier and with more energy and to find other ways to connect with locals, like asking servers at restaurants about their favorite hangouts or listening to traditional Irish music at a local bar in Derry. I no longer plan my evenings around drinks; instead, I look for live music, tea houses, night markets, or just quiet spaces to reflect. Oddly enough, I feel more adventurous than I did before. Not drinking has pushed me to be more creative and intentional about how I seek joy. It's also helped me be more honest with myself and with others. I've realized how often I used alcohol as a shortcut to connecting with people when what I really needed was genuine curiosity and vulnerability. I'm not here to make a case for sobriety or to say I'll never drink again. I'm simply in a season of exploring what it means to be fully awake to my experiences and how that changes the way I travel. Going alcohol-free at 50 started as a personal experiment, but it's evolved into a new way to move through the world. Read the original article on Business Insider
Yahoo
2 days ago
- Yahoo
Why the Balkans should be your next summer destination
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). A complicated region with an extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, Europe's beautiful Balkan lands have been passed through and fought over by civilisations including the Romans, Greeks and Ottomans for more than a millennium. As a result, the term 'Balkans' is one of the slipperiest geographical descriptions in Europe. Broadly speaking it applies to the peninsula that stretches throughout southeastern Europe and ends in Greece. But where it begins — like many things in the Balkans — is a question of politics and perspective. Mainstream travel has been slow to take root in many of the region's countries, but things are gradually starting to change. As beach-holiday destinations go, this coastline is hard to top, offering a winning combination of crystalline coves, ancient settlements and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, all set before a backdrop of craggy mountains. The clear waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas have been drawing admirers to these shores since ancient times, as demonstrated by the remains of sumptuous Roman residences positioned on some of the most beautiful bays. The most famous of these is Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which now forms the heart of Split, Croatia's second-largest city. Some of the Balkan peninsula countries are already firmly on the tourism radar, notably Slovenia, Croatia, Greece and, increasingly, the coastal parts of Montenegro and Albania. The famous walled towns of the coast — such as Dubrovnik in Croatia and Kotor in Montenegro — continue to charm, despite now being crammed with tourists in July and August. But the Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches and crowded coastal cities. Head inland and you'll find a corner of Europe where it's still possible to access real wilderness, with bears, wolves and lynx roaming remote ranges and forgotten forests. To beat the crowds and chase adventure, plan a trip to the smaller, less-explored countries of the Western Balkans. Combined, the five we've highlighted below are roughly the same size as England. With two weeks to spare you could easily get a taste for each. Alternatively, pick just one or two for longer stays. Best for: urban explorationWith idyllic settings in river valleys ringed by mountains, Bosnia and Herzegovina's capital Sarajevo and historic centre of Mostar are two of the most beautiful and fascinating cities in the Balkans. Both suffered dreadfully during the 1990s wars and are still divided along ethnic lines, but the historic mosques, churches, synagogues and markets have now been restored and the streets once again hum with life. Sarajevo's old Ottoman core, Baščaršija, is back to being one of the region's most memorable and enchanting city neighbourhoods, where narrow lanes wind past old bazaars and pigeon-filled squares, and the scent of grilled meat, strong Bosnian coffee and shisha smoke swirls in the air. Mostar's famous 16th-century bridge — destroyed in 1993 — has been rebuilt and once more arcs elegantly over the green waters of the Neretva River. It forms the centrepiece of a heritage quarter of stone houses punctuated by the pencil-thin minarets of Ottoman mosques. (How to spend a perfect weekend in Bosnia & Herzegovina.) Best for: adventureMontenegro may be small, but Kosovo is smaller still. Since declaring independence from Serbia in 2008, this little landlocked nation has started to gain a reputation as an active-holiday destination for intrepid travellers. The pretty town of Peja — with its Byzantine and Ottoman architecture — is at the centre of the action. There's excellent hiking, caving and zip-lining in the surrounding area, as well as a vertigo-inducing via ferrata course in Rugova Canyon — but it's all still very off the beaten track for most travellers. Peja lies at the base of the formidable range known as the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Serbian), which forms the border with Montenegro and Albania. This remote area is one of Europe's true wildernesses. It's now possible to take a multiday hike through the rugged terrain, traversing all three countries, on the 119-mile Peaks of the Balkans track. Trekkers stay in a mixture of family homes and mountain huts. This off-the-grid adventure can also be broken into bite-sized chunks, but shouldn't be undertaken lightly. It's best to enlist the services of a local operator such as Undiscovered Balkans or Balkan Natural Adventure to help with guiding and logistics, including arranging the correct permits for the border crossings. (Europe's newest adventure scene is blossoming in southern Kosovo.) Best for: diverse landscapesMontenegro is tiny — smaller than Northern Ireland — but it crams a lot in. The 'black mountain' that it's named after rises precipitously from the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, creating a spectacular backdrop to the medieval walls of Kotor town. South east of here, Montenegro's Adriatic coastline stretches barely 62 miles as the crow flies but still manages to pack in three more picture-perfect walled towns: Budva, Sveti Stefan and Ulcinj. Inland it's mainly mountains, punctuated by deep river canyons and glistening lakes. These range from the tiny glacial depressions known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) that are a feature of rugged Durmitor National Park, to the largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar, which is an important habitat for wetland birds including giant Dalmatian pelicans. The everchanging scenery makes driving in Montenegro a constant thrill, especially once you escape the crowded coast. The terrain lends itself to myriad summertime activities: canyoning at Nevidio Canyon on the Komarnica River, whitewater rafting on the Tara River and birdwatching cruises on Lake Skadar, to name just a few. For hiking, base yourself in the mountain towns of Cetinje, Kolašin or Žabljak, which are the gateways to three lofty national parks: Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor. A fourth range, Prokletije, on the border with Albania and Kosovo, is home to Montenegro's highest peak (8,316ft). (The ultimate Adriatic coastal adventure in Montenegro's Bay of Kotor.) Best for: beachesAlbania's long and lovely coastline stretches along two separate seas: the Adriatic and the Ionian. The Ionian, in particular, has some magnificent beaches, where the turquoise waters of southwestern Albania approach Caribbean levels of intensity. If you were hoping to chance upon uncrowded and undeveloped bays in Albania, that ship has sailed. The Ionian coast is now being touted as the 'Albanian Riviera' and construction can be seen everywhere, especially in popular places like Ksamil. That said, busy spots such as Mirror Beach (Plazhi Pasqyra) are popular for a reason — the juxtaposition of aquamarine waters and dramatic white cliffs is breathtaking. Tucked below canyon walls, Gjipe is similarly spectacular — and the fact that it can only be reached by boat or on foot helps to keep visitor numbers down. Other low-key stretches on the riviera include 4.3-mile-long Borsh and sleepy Qeparo. As appealing as the beaches are, it would be a shame to visit Albania and ignore the interior. The 'museum cities' of Berat and Gjirokastër are fascinating due to their high concentration of Ottoman houses, their elegant wooden upper storeys jutting out over the narrow streets. Tirana is one of the Balkans' buzziest capitals, a lively hybrid of Ottoman remnants, Communist-era blocks painted in outlandish colours and new construction. If you want to get further off the beaten track, Undiscovered Balkans offers multi-activity Albanian holidays which include hiking, rafting, mule treks and village feasts. (Take a journey through Albania's wild, blue heart.) Best for: foodDespite remarkable mountains, lakes and historic sites, North Macedonia is blissfully unassuming and largely untroubled by overtourism. The town of Ohrid is one of the country's biggest drawcards for its frescoed Orthodox churches, boat trips and lake-fronting boardwalks. But the country's rural areas are a real treat — particularly Mavrovo and Pelister national parks, which lend themselves to leisurely drives stopping at village taverns and roadside produce stalls. Five hundred years of Ottoman rule have had a noticeable impact on the food, which is more varied than most other Western Balkan cuisines and less averse to spice. Ajvar is a case in point. This delicious red pepper and aubergine spread can pack some real heat and is found on the menu at many local restaurants. Grilled meats also feature prominently, as they do throughout the Balkans, but the national dish is vegan: a white bean stew known as tavče gravče. Local markets are packed with mountain herbs, local honeys and tangy hard cheeses, which also make an appearance on rural guesthouse breakfast tables. Be sure to try the local tipples, too. These include mastika (a liqueur flavoured with tree resin) and wines from the Tikveš Plain made from lesser-known regional grape varietals such as Smederevka, Vranec and Temjanika. The region is around 90 minutes south east of the capital Skopje; travellers can while away a day or two here, staying at the Popova Kula winery hotel. (A taste of North Macedonia, from flaky burek to rakija and farmhouse cheeses.) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
