6 Ways To Recession-Proof Your Hair Colour, Straight From The Pros

Refinery29

21 hours ago

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Hair colour trends are famously lighthearted. We ask for 'sun-kissed' highlights or a 'cool' blonde base. But in this economy, colourists are sensing a vibe shift. The trend about to hit your group chat? Recession hair.
'I've started to hear from more and more people wanting to stretch the length between appointments and lean into low-maintenance looks,' explains Natalie Rotger, a colourist at Jenna Perry Hair Studio in New York. Not only does this approach create a more natural, effortless style, but it helps colour clients save money by reducing the frequency of salon visits. For context, even partial balayage can cost upwards of $230 AUD in New York City (a half-head of foils could easily be twice that), and with costs rising across the board, it makes sense that people are looking to scale back their hair appointments. In Australia, it's not any better. A cut and colour could set you back $400 or more, depending on the salon.
For many people, going from blonde to a natural shade of brown is an aesthetic choice rather than a penny-pinching one: 'I know everyone is talking about 'recession hair' now, but I think Hailey Bieber started this [trend] years ago,' says Rotger. 'Once she stopped highlighting and started going darker, so many of my blondes did the same thing — or started to embrace their natural colour a lot more.'
Leaning into a more natural hair colour is certainly a more affordable option, but it's not the only way to save money. Ahead, colour experts tell us exactly how to stretch longer between appointments (don't just ghost) and inch closer to your natural shade in a way that feels expensive. Follow their tips ahead — and don't call it recession hair.
Talk openly about your hair budget
Yes, your supermarket bill is astronomically high, but ghosting your colourist is not a long-term strategy — it's an avoidance tactic. Instead, get ahead of your fears and have a vulnerable conversation about financial planning with your colourist. You can do this at your next appointment. When you're sitting down with your colourist and they ask, 'What are you thinking?' give an honest answer. Maybe you say, 'I'd love to be a bit blonder this summer, but I'm concerned about the upkeep cost. My budget will only allow for two colour appointments this year — can we work together to develop a plan?'
Your colourist wants to help. 'When a colourist knows your goals and your budget, they can suggest [a colour plan] that will make you feel great,' explains NYC-based colourist Julie Fortiz. 'Custom colour is very thoughtful and can be budget-friendly if done right,' she adds. Plus, they're living in this economy too, so they get it.
Make a 'big events' calendar
It sounds simple, but plan your hair colour around your life, not the other way around: 'Make a game plan,' suggests Rotger. 'Think about specific events in your life — like a wedding, birthday, or vacation. Work backwards from there.' Put on a playlist, get out your calendar, and plan your colour appointments around the most important dates. You'll probably see a few months-long blocks that are safe skips.
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Figure out how to be low-maintenance
If you're blonde and want to transition to a low-maintenance brunette, there's a pretty simple playbook: Let your natural colour grow in as much as possible, then go in for a tint-back service. The tint-back is a series of glosses that match your previously-highlighted hair to your root colour so there's no demarcation. 'After that, there's little to no maintenance,' explains Rotger. 'After a few months, maybe you can add a little face-framing highlight,' she adds, but once you've successfully transitioned your hair, you're in full control of your colour budget.
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Trade brightness for shine
While a hair gloss won't brighten your hair (only bleach can do that), it will add incredible shine, which can have a highlight-like effect: 'Glossing treatments go a long way,' says Fortiz. 'They can make highlights or dyed hair a little sparklier and stretch out your visits to the salon.'
Some even have hair benefits beyond depositing colour to cover greys or root growth, and adding shine. For example, Redken Shades EQ Gloss is infused with strengthening wheat amino acids and bonder technology to repair hair damaged by bleach, heat, or environmental aggressors. Most salons carry Redken Shades EQ, so it might be worth asking your colourist if they would consider it for your next appointment.
A hair gloss costs, on average, $150-225 in Australia, while a full colour service might be three or four times that. There are also at-home options. 'A tinted conditioner is nice because it works like a baby gloss at home,' explains Fortiz. She likes the Christophe Robin Shade Variation Mask, $67, for their shade ranges.
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Air-dry whenever you can
'A lot of people think colouring is what makes your hair dry — and it can — but it's really the constant at-home heat styling that fries your hair,' explains Rotger. If you want to stretch a little longer between colour appointments and avoid crunchy ends, you'd be wise to reduce your heat styling and opt for air-drying where you can this summer.
If you don't want to give up heat styling or even cut back, make sure you're taking precautions to protect your hair. First, always use a heat-protecting spray. Unite Hair's 7SECONDS Detangler, $44.10, is a failsafe option, offering frizz control and heat protection. Second, use your blowdryer on low heat, and diffuse on low heat if you have curls. Lastly, consider air-drying to 90%, then hitting the hair with low heat to dry any damp strands and add polish.
Use the non-fancy (but colour-safe) shampoo
Colourists agree you don't need expensive or extraneous hair products — not in this economy. Beyond a simple conditioner and heat protectant, consider a colour-safe shampoo. This is important because it will be made with gentle cleansing ingredients free of harsh sulfates that could strip colour quickly. 'If there's one thing you're going to invest in, it's a colour-safe shampoo,' echoes Rotger. Our favourites include the Color Wow Security Shampoo, $50, Amika Bust Your Brass Shampoo, $49, and the L'Oréal EverPure Hydrating Shampoo, $33. You can safely skip the clarifying or detox treatments, especially post-colour. Often with hair products, the adage holds: Less is more.