From a soldier to star chef, straddling continents and cuisines

Khaleej Times

2 days ago

When chef Thanos Feskos touched down in Dubai for the first time last month, it wasn't for leisure. 'Just work,' he says with a shrug, reflecting on the whirlwind five-day trip that left little time for sightseeing. But what he lacked in tourism, he made up for in unforgettable culinary impact. 'It was super nice, super enjoyable,' he recalls, eyes bright. 'And the people I met—amazing. So accepting. So warm.' That, he says, is why he's already planning a return.
With a spectacular 4 Hands Menu experience that saw two culinary worlds collide on a single plate Feskos charmed the audience with his food and joie de vivre. Hosted at a Shimmers restaurant, the evening paired Feskos with resident chef Emmanuel in a soulful symphony of dishes built around sharing, storytelling, and pure emotion. 'We did it together,' Feskos explains. 'One amuse bouche, one starter, one main, and one dessert each. It was about balance. About friendship on a plate.'
Culinary serendipity
Born and raised in Porto Rafti, Greece, Feskos didn't grow up in a kitchen dynasty. 'My story doesn't begin with my mother or grandmother teaching me to cook,' he says with a smile. 'I was studying financial accounting, but the kitchen called me during my military service.' Assigned to cook for his unit, he was a complete novice. But the soldiers loved his hearty, home-style meals. 'So I started calling my grandmother for recipes. Bean soup. Spinach pie. Roasted chicken with potatoes—comfort food. I cooked how she cooked for me.' He was soon assigned to be the Sergeant's personal chef.
It was the beginning of an obsession. He enrolled in Greece's Le Monde Culinary Institute, followed by two master's degrees from the Culinary Institute of Switzerland—one in molecular gastronomy and another in European gourmet cuisine and chocolate artistry. 'Yes, I'm a pastry chef too,' he laughs. 'I even placed third worldwide in chocolate architecture.'
The rise at Geranium
Feskos' journey eventually took him to Copenhagen, where he joined Geranium, the legendary restaurant co-owned by Rasmus Kofoed. Starting at the very bottom, he worked tirelessly—'like two and a half people,' he jokes. But talent and persistence propelled him forward, and in 2011, he became Head Chef. Under his leadership, Geranium achieved what few ever will: three Michelin stars and the number one spot on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list.
'Earning those stars... it's a dream,' Feskos reflects. 'But there's no secret sauce. No magic. Just full focus. Full sacrifice. Full hospitality.'
In 2020, Feskos returned to Greece to lead the kitchen at Delta, a restaurant redefining sustainability in haute cuisine. 'We had a farm. We composted everything. We thought about people, not just produce. Human sustainability matters, too.' Under his guidance, Delta earned two Michelin stars and a coveted Green Michelin Star—a testament to both taste and ethics.
Despite the accolades, Feskos has shifted his gaze. 'I'm tired of the fine dining grind,' he confesses. 'Now, I just want to cook food that makes people smile.' This mission powers his new ventures: 3 Stripes, a street food project in Athens and Antiparos, and 4 Hands Athens, a collaborative culinary concept that brings chefs together, not just dishes.
Bitter bread and sweet memories
But every great chef has their kitchen scars. 'The worst moment?' he recalls. 'A mistake with the bread service. The head chef threw 250 mini loaves at me—one by one. I took the blame for a friend.' Yet the best moment outshone it all: 'I cooked for my parents' 50th wedding anniversary. They cried at the table. That was it. That was everything.'
When asked about his favorite dish, Feskos shrugs off foie gras or rare truffles. 'Something made with love,' he says. 'That's it. It could be beans, bread, anything. If it's made with care, it's the best thing I've ever tasted.'
He's particularly fond of Indian food, recalling meals cooked by a friend's mom in Mumbai. 'Spicy, yes. I was sweating buckets,' he laughs. 'But it was so delicious—like a mother's love on a plate.'
Dubai's Four-Hands magic
At the Dubai event, diners were treated to a journey—not just across borders, but across memories. 'It wasn't about fancy presentation,' Feskos explains. 'It was about sharing. Family-style dishes that made people connect.' The feedback? 'Overwhelming. People came up to us after saying it felt like home, even though the flavors were new. That's what food should do.'
Even with the Dubai menu leaning toward simplicity—dictated by the restaurant's concept—Feskos's fine-dining finesse shone through in flavor, warmth, and attention to detail.
With new projects simmering in Greece and Asia—and another Dubai visit hinted at for late 2025—Feskos shows no signs of slowing down. 'It's not about the 'wow' anymore. It's about warmth.'
Whether it's a rustic bean soup or a refined amuse bouche Thanos cooks with the same goal: to make you feel something.
And judging by the empty plates and full hearts at his 4 Hands dinner in Dubai, he's doing just that.