In The Vines With Michael Kennedy, Founder Of Fraîche Wine Group
Michael Kennedy, founder of Fraîche Wine Group.
I first crossed paths with Michael Kennedy on Cayman Brac years before Fraîche Wine Group was conceived. In 2017 we were both at a lunch during Cayman Cookout at Le Soleil d'Or—a posh three-bedroom farmhouse on the Bluff, situated on 20 acres of stunning botanical gardens. It wasn't just any lunch, though. It was hosted by chef Eric Ripert and New Zealand's esteemed Craggy Range winery—and Kennedy was sitting right beside Ripert. I continued to guzzle down the 2013 single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Craggy Range and enjoy my feast of caviar, oysters, pâté, terrine, lamb, and all the other delights of this joyful lunch spread.
Kennedy just so happened to be the former head sommelier at Blue by Eric Ripert at the Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman. When we got back to Grand Cayman, I chatted with him a bit about wine—albeit begrudgingly. At that point in my life, I wanted nothing to do with the wine world; I thought it was rather snobby.
A few months later, I linked up with Kennedy in Napa Valley, agreeing to let him try to change my mind. After arriving in Napa, we pit-stopped at Oxbow Public Market for a dozen Hog Island Oyster Co. oysters and a bottle of his then-new Component Sauvignon Blanc. It was delicious.
Later that week, there was an informal aperitivo hour with Bettina Bryant of the Bryant Estate, where a bottle of Domaine Louis-Benjamin Blanc Fumé de Pouilly started the evening. I can still remember its minerality… and my overall hesitation to say anything that sounded like a wine tasting note. Bryant Estate's then-winemaker, Marc Gagnon, casually showed up, and the night continued with Bryant Family Vineyards proprieter grown 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon….and many other bottles.
Marc Gagnon and Michael Kennedy.
On Howell Mountain, we tasted wine in the clouds with Robin Lail of Lail Vineyards, out on the porch of her beautiful home at The Mole Hill Estate. The day continued with tequila and some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon I've ever had at Dunn Vineyards with Randy Dunn. It ended with a stroll through Red Cap Vineyards and—yep, you guessed it—another stunning tasting. As Randy Dunn noted that day, way back in 2017: wine is just fermenting grape juice, and he's just a farmer.
I now have Kennedy to thank for my very loving relationship with wine, and so many wine memories with him are now etched into my mind. Drinking J. Lassalle Premier Cru Brut Rosé Champagne out of paper cups in Beckstoffer Vineyards in Napa in 2020, pre-Covid times, on a sunny day—just because it made sense in the moment—is simply irreplaceable.
Since I met Kennedy in 2017, he's gone on to launch Fraîche Wine Group, a family of wineries created by two friends: Component Wine Co., Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards, La Caccia di San Giovanni, and SOM Wines. Also: don't forget to visit the Cheese Shed in Napa and Borgo Bonelli in Tuscany.
Now let's cut to the chase. I sat down with Michael Kennedy for the latest installment of In the Vines With to chat far beyond the basics—upcoming projects and more:
Jenn Rice: What inspired you to dive into the wine world?
Michael Kennedy: In middle school, I had the best French teacher, originally from Bordeaux, who taught me about how inextricably linked wine was to history, culture, food, art, religion, and basically every moment of life in Europe. I was hooked from that moment.
Fraîche Wine Group portfolio.
JR: What is your proudest moment as founder of Fraiche Wine Group?
MK: So many amazing things have happened to us over the years, but I'm most proud of the team we've built. Ten years ago, if you had told me we'd be working with Marc Gagnon, the best winemaker in California (in my humble opinion), a hospitality team that gets the attention of the Michelin Guide, and a distribution team that gets our wine in restaurants like Eleven Madison Park, it would have been hard to believe. I'm so proud of them.
JR: What is your first memory with wine?
MK: Strangely, I can't remember my first wine, but the first time I fell in love with wine was over a 1996 Château Montrose from Bordeaux. I sat with my mentor over this bottle for hours and finally began to understand the wild ride wine can take as it opens.
Michael Kennedy and Marg Gagnon blending session.
JR: What are you currently drinking from your portfolio?
MK: I'm obsessed with our SOM Eola-Springs Vineyard Chardonnay from Oregon right now. It is so electric and alive, yet also somehow silky and discreet. It's perfect in the most elegant of settings—but you'll mostly find me drinking it at home with our crazy boys in a GoVino.
JR: Advice for anyone fearful of diving into the world of wine?
MK: Oh goodness...why? None of us know as much as you think, and all of us want you here—it's an inclusive world that needs more people who enjoy wine and fewer people who are making others feel bad about not knowing! Start with a tasty glass at a wine bar and see where it takes you.
JR: A sommelier who's blown your mind with wine pairings?
MK: Aldo Sohm has always amazed me with his pairings. From the first time I tasted a great red wine with a fish course at Le Bernardin, I knew he was in a different league. Now, I have the rather unfortunate honor of competing against him at Cayman Cookout every year in our annual Sommelier Standoff. He's won 2 out of 3 times, and I'm pretty sure it won't change anytime soon. He's one of the best in the world!
La Caccia di San Giovanni in Tuscany.
JR: Your 'stranded on an island' wine:
MK: I'd probably be quite happy sitting alone on a beach drinking some Pierre Peters Champagne. Honestly, any Champagne would do!
JR: What do you think people often misunderstand about wine?
MK: Wine isn't so fragile. It's an agricultural product meant to be opened and shared with friends over delicious food. Of course, it can be serious, but those of us who've been around the industry long enough will be the first to tell you it's not that serious. Good bottles mixed with good people and good food equal amazing times.
JR: What is your go-to libation when you need a break from wine?
MK: Campari soda is my absolute favorite—low-alcohol, refreshing, and perfect for all seasons.
JR: A wine region you'd like to visit next?
MK: I'm dying to go to South Africa. There are so many incredible winemakers down there, like Chris Alheit from Alheit Vineyards, that don't get nearly the exposure or notoriety they deserve.
JR: The future of wine is…
MK: So hard to say, but I really believe people want to know who is making their wine and where it comes from. It's pretty magical when you can connect with the people who make whatever it is you love—food, wine, beer, art. It really changes the way you connect with the product—and I see that continuing to be more and more important.
The Yount Leap Estate in Napa Valley, Fraîche Wine Group's newest project underway.
JR: What's next for Fraîche Wine Group?
MK: We just purchased an estate I've been eyeing for years in Napa. Right on the Silverado Trail, in the hills of Yountville. We're going to plan some pretty incredible new wines & experiences there & cannot wait to share them with everyone.
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