Why a visit to the atmospheric ruins of Restenneth Priory near Forfar is good for the soul

The Courier

2 days ago

The sun was blazing and there was barely a cloud in the sky as I took a drive out past Forfar to Restenneth Priory.
It was most definitely a day for sitting and quietly contemplating: I wasn't planning any mad adventures.
Despite having lived in Angus for 13 years, it was my first visit to the priory, which I am rather ashamed to admit.
It's super-easy to access, and there's a dedicated car park just a few minutes' walk away.
As soon as I stepped out of the car, I was blown away by the sheer gorgeousness and perfection of this tranquil place.
Cattle grazed quietly in lush pasture surrounding the priory, and the only sound (apart from a brief bout of barking from dogs in kennels at a house nearby) was that of birds twittering in the trees.
I wandered around the remains of the ancient buildings, pausing to imagine the Augustinian canons who once lived here praying, gardening, eating and sleeping.
They apparently wore distinctive black robes, and lived like monks – in an enclosed religious community, but sometimes leaving the priory to worship with local people.
At the heart of the priory, which was an outpost of Jedburgh Abbey, was the church – the largest and most sacred building.
Alas, some of the ruins are fenced off, presumably for repair work, so I was unable to access everything.
But look closely and you might spot shallow basins used for washing vessels known as piscina, and carvings including window decorations.
The highlight, arguably, is the 14 metre tower, of which the base, dating from the 1100s, is the oldest part of the priory to survive.
As well as the ruins of the ancient church, with its tower, chapter house foundations, cloister walls and doorways, and chancel, there are fascinating gravestones.
One, in the grounds, has a smiley face carved into it. It's pretty quirky and a cute way to honour a loved one.
However, I've yet to find out the history and story behind it and who might be buried under it.
Another gravestone, inside the cloisters, is also pretty cool, and has been described as 'crude medieval grave slab'.
I sat for a couple of hours on the grass outside the priory, simply drinking in the atmosphere. I highly recommend it; it's good for the soul.
Suitably refreshed, I decided to explore the surrounding area, and having noticed a path leading from the car park down into woodland, I headed in that direction.
It turns out the priory is on the Forfar Path Network, which means you can include a visit in a wider circuit.
After passing drystane dykes lined with bluebells, I found myself on a marshy path flanked by high reeds that runs through the wetlands of Restenneth Moss.
Apart from a few slight soggy sections, it was bone dry. This is unusual: the path is often flooded.
I followed the path, walking under an old railway bridge, soon reaching the hamlet of Lunanhead.
I turned at this point, but, back at the priory, continued on the path in the opposite direction.
This took me through a landfill site, which was bizarrely chosen by designer Stella McCartney for a photo shoot in 2017.
The following year, in 2018, the site hosted renowned film-director Elena Petitti di Roreto, who brought a full crew to shoot for Vogue Italia.
I honestly don't know how the models coped. The stench of rotting rubbish is gag-worthy!
I scuttled on, keen to get away, soon ending up beside Forfar Golf Course.
There were options to continue – back into Forfar or along another path to the village of Kingsmuir – but I had things to do and places to be so I knocked my walk on the head.
Back at the priory, I couldn't resist taking just a few more photos.
Interestingly, there are different theories about when it was founded.
The earliest masonry, at the base of the tower, dates from the 1100s.
But there's said to be a strong possibility that Restenneth was where the Pictish King Nechtan built his first stone church around AD715.
Another fascinating fact is that King Alexander I had the sacred annals of Iona transferred to Restenneth in the 1100s to keep them safe from encroaching Scandinavians.
In 1162, the priory was established by Augustinian canons, and became a sort of quiet outpost of Jedburgh Abbey in the Borders.
At that time the priory sat on the banks of a small loch, which provided canons with a good supply of fish and fresh water.
However this was drained in the 18th Century for its marl, which was used as a rich fertiliser.
Following the Wars of Independence, Robert the Bruce became a generous patron of the priory.
And in 1327 King Robert buried his infant son, Prince John, in the church.
The young prince was the only member of Bruce's family not to be buried in Dunfermline Abbey.
By 1501 there were only two canons in residence.
And after the 1560 Reformation, Restenneth had a number of private owners.
One, George Dempster of Dunnichen, turned part of the old choir into a family burial place.
The priory was damaged by troops who set up camp here during the 1745 uprising, and spent much of the 1800s as accommodation for cattle.
It passed into state care in 1919, and is now looked after by Historic Environment Scotland.