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Vancouver Sun
21-05-2025
- General
- Vancouver Sun
Hidden tunnels and historic landmarks shine a light on Vietnam's painful past
Huynh Van Chia, 80, stands proudly at attention — an empty sleeve where his right arm should be — as he recalls his terrible years as a Viet Cong guerrilla in the tunnels of Cu Chi, some 65 km outside of Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. 'For people like me who lived in the tunnels, we came out from the tunnels when the war ended, but we have problems with hearing, but also seeing… It was not easy for myself,' he said through a translator from Trafalgar Tours . 'When the war ended, it took time for me to recover and for me to feel better.' For 12 years, from 1963 to 1975, Van Chia lived, worked and fought in those dim, multi-layered tunnels near Ben Dinh village. He lost his right arm and the sight in one eye when struck by machine gun fire. Plan your next getaway with Travel Time, featuring travel deals, destinations and gear. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of Travel Time will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. It's impossible to imagine life underground for so long, especially after crouching — or crawling, as taller people have to do — through a scant 20 to 80 metres of them. Small sections of the Cu Chi tunnels are open for tourists to explore if they have the nerve. They are pitch-black, steamy hot, silent except for the laboured breathing, and disorienting. Cu Chi is an immense network of interconnected tunnels and larger rooms, 268 kilometres all told, connecting former Viet Cong support bases on the outskirts of Saigon (as Ho Chi Minh City is still commonly called) all the way to the Cambodian border. The network included field hospitals, kitchens, meeting and living areas and armament bunkers. The original section was built in 1948 as Vietnam fought for independence against the French. Newer tunnels were constructed for the 'American War,' as it's called in Vietnam. 'We had to eat whatever was available. We had rice, cassava – sweet potato. We tried to grow food along the Saigon River. But, of course, we had to hide away from our enemy. Also, local people in the yellow areas, when they went out, they sometimes left food in areas for us. We'd go at night to collect it,' recalled Van Chia. At its peak, 3,500 guerrillas stayed in the tunnels. The entire system had room for 41,000 people, but they never had to stay in the tunnel at the same time. 'We only used it when it was not safe to be above,' said Van Chia, who still lives in the area and was asked to come speak to our tour group. It was a powerful talk, and the kind of experience many in the group said is why they are repeat Trafalgar guests. It was the 10th trip for one Australian couple and the 14th for a Calgary woman, Alison Gilbart, who said, 'I look for excursions that I wouldn't have the opportunity to do on my own.' When American troops moved into the Ben Dinh area, they unknowingly built a base on top of some of the tunnels. Van Chia said the Viet Cong would strike at night and disappear into the tunnels, leaving the U.S. troops to fight what seemed like ghosts. 'We placed land mines, bamboo traps, booby traps, everywhere, outside and also inside tunnels, to stop our enemy. We also built very low, narrow tunnels, just only us at a time could go through. Very low, just about this (he said, gesturing to his knees). So we had to crawl through the tunnel. It was all very well connected.' But those tunnels were also targeted by American bombers and frequently destroyed. Van Chia was outside one in a trench when an enemy machine gun tore into his right arm and eye in 1967. He was 21 years old. At the complex, there are displays of those booby traps, of a field hospital and bunkers where they built bombs. If that's not real enough, the constant blasting of M16s, AK47s, RPKs and RPD machine guns reverberates from the National Defence Sport Range, lending a chilling air of authenticity. Despite the horrors he and others endured, Van Chia has hope for the future. 'My wishes for now to the future, when young people meet, no matter where they are from – the United States or other countries – the Vietnamese people, when they meet, they will meet at the table having tea and discussing business, not about war,' said Van Chia. This year, on April 30, Vietnam marked the end of the hostilities with the 50th anniversary of the fall of Saigon and reunification of North and South. During an early April trip, workers were constructing massive bleachers on the grounds of the Reunification Palace in preparation for official ceremonies. Events are planned across the country this year, with perhaps some of the most prestigious in Hanoi, the former seat of power for Ho Chi Minh and his Communist Party. A visit to the presidential palace area in Hanoi is the best place to start to get an understanding of the very complicated history of Vietnam. The Americans were just one foe and the fight against them just one war fought here. Over the centuries, it was invaded by other nations like China and Japan. France ruled the south until the Viet Minh, led by Ho Chi Minh, revolted against colonial rule. Following eight years of war, an accord divided the country into the French-backed south and the communist north. Revered as a leader, Ho Chi Minh's body is displayed in a mausoleum in the presidential palace area. A long line of thousands winds across the grounds before a brief walk past the glass box raised on a stone pedestal bathed in dim light and silence. You can also tour two of the houses where he lived from 1954 onward, and see a display of the Bentley and other official cars he used when meeting leaders and dignitaries. In Saigon, many of the wartime landmarks remain but have new, more peaceful uses. The Fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975, is considered to have occurred when a North Vietnamese Army tank crashed through the gates of Independence Palace, ending the war. Today, the palace is a museum, and the beautifully manicured grounds are a popular tourist attraction. Another former landmark is now impossible to distinguish from other buildings unless it's pointed out. A famous photo taken on April 29, 1975, shows U.S. government officials evacuating by climbing a ladder to a helicopter on a roof. Today, it is an apartment building. Visits to both cities help explain the story of Vietnam. As Saigon, Hanoi and all other parts of the country mark the 50th anniversary of reunification, Van Chia reflected on that long-ago war. 'We never forget what happened 50 years ago. That's when the war ended and the country was reunified. We remember what Ho Chi Minh said: 'Nothing is more precious than freedom and independence.' ' Michele Jarvie was a guest of Trafalgar Tours, which did not review this article before publication.
Sydney Morning Herald
09-05-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
Move over, Bali and Japan: The other Asian destination we're obsessed with
There's an Asian nation we're obsessed with, and it's not Japan. Yes, the Land of the Rising Sun is incredibly popular with Australian travellers, an interest that shows no sign of waning. But we're talking about another place that is blessed with some of the finest food on the planet plus landscapes that range from delta lowlands to mountain highs. It has two of the world's great cities, with culture that's both ancient and modern, and is a place of rich tradition mixed with headlong progress into an exciting future. Where? Vietnam. There's been a steady increase in interest in Vietnam among Australian travellers over several decades, though right now, it's booming. From 2023 to 2024, there was a 35 per cent increase in Australian travellers heading to Vietnam. It was our ninth most popular destination last year, when almost 450,000 Australians visited. That was an increase of almost 80 per cent on the figures from a decade ago. So what are we getting out of this country that we're unable to experience in others? Let us count the ways. Firstly, you can get to Vietnam cheaply, thanks to direct flights from Australia with budget carriers Jetstar and Vietjet and there are also competitive fares from Vietnam Airlines and Qantas. It helps, too, that Vietnam is so outrageously affordable once you're there, with luxurious accommodation and lavish dining experiences within reach for many who could only dream of such things in, well, Australia. The country also just celebrated 50 years since the end of the Vietnam War (known there as the American War) which has brought a further sense of buoyancy. But it's also so much more than that. The people You're in for a good time in Vietnam, and much of that will be down to the people you meet and interact with on your journey. The Vietnamese are a proud though gregarious bunch (something you will particularly notice the further south you travel), open and generous and up for some fun. There's a sense of barely controlled chaos to Vietnam, as you will discover the first time you try to cross a road, which helps you understand the flexible and amiable nature of many locals, who long ago learned not to sweat the small stuff. It's important to remember, too, that this isn't a mono ethnic nation: travel around, and you will meet groups of Hmong, Dao, Khmer and Tay people, each with their own culture, character and traditions. The history How far back do you want to go? To journey through this country is to discover temple ruins of the Cham nations dating back to the 4th century at My Son; to see Hanoi's Temple of Literature, built after the nation emerged from Chinese rule in 1070; to visit the Imperial City of Hue, built in 1804 during the Nguyen dynasty. Then there are the signs of more recent history: the French facades of old Hanoi and Hoi An; the Cu Chi tunnels, an extensive underground network used during the Vietnam War; the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, where you're reminded that here, it's actually the 'American war'. But you don't even have to visit an official site to feel the deep sense of history and tradition that pervades Vietnam. Just walk around. The food If you travel for food then destinations don't get much better. We're talking pho, of course, the soothing, aromatic noodle soup served in no-frills street side eateries across the country for little more than a few dollars a bowl. But then we're also talking about a whole suite of dishes and styles of eating that are incredibly good, calling in flavours that range from smoky to spicy, sweet to savoury, delicate to all-powerful. We can name-check banh mi, banh xeo, bun cha, bun bo Hue and goi cuon, but there's so much more. Vietnamese cuisine relies heavily on fresh herbs and crunchy vegetables, giving its dishes a freshness and purity of flavour that will stick in your mind long after memories of historic sites and beach hangs have faded. And it's all so spectacularly affordable and accessible, often eaten while sitting on tiny plastic stools on busy pavements as scooters zoom past and pedestrians go about their business. Food is life in Vietnam, it's a source of great local pride and daily enjoyment, and your only mission is to try as much of it as you can. The drinks There are two key drinks that you must try in Vietnam. The first: coffee. Vietnam is one of those rare countries with a unique coffee culture that is also deeply ingrained. Coffee here is brewed in individual portions in a phin, a small steel contraption that sits on the top of a cup or glass. This distinctive coffee then drips down onto condensed milk and sometimes ice, in which case you have a 'ca phe sua da', coffee with milk and ice, one of the world's great beverages. Next, particularly in northern Vietnam, seek out bia hoi, or 'fresh beer'. This beer is brewed daily and only matured for a very short time, so it's light and refreshing, and is served in dedicated bars that also churn out appropriately spicy, salty snacks to pair with the beverage. As with the coffee, the ritual and the setting are as important and enjoyable as the drink itself. The cities + towns Two cities, two characters, two histories, two vibes, two amazing experiences: that's what you get with Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the yin and yang of modern-day Vietnam, the capitals of the old north and south, and two of the most exciting cities on the planet. Hanoi is all French-colonial facades and narrow Old Quarter streets, lakeside tai chi sessions and street-side noodles. It's vibrant, scholarly, traditional. Ho Chi Minh City, still commonly referred to as Saigon in the south, is the nation's modernist heartland, with rivers of scooters, pulsating nightlife and an ever-friendly disposition. It's a city that will seem to have morphed significantly every time you visit. Both are worthy of several days of your time. But then look in between: Hoi An, with its history and charm, not to mention the best banh mi shops on the planet; Da Lat, cool and relaxed, a former French colonial hideaway; Da Nang, a mixture of seaside luxury and historic sites and proximity to Hoi An; Hue, the ancient capital, with its well-preserved Imperial City, and Nha Trang, beachy and cool, the place to relax in the sun. The islands This may not be the attraction that immediately springs to mind when you think of Vietnam. But this country's islands have plenty to offer, from the classic ideals of tropical paradise to more cerebral attractions of culture and history. Begin in the south, at Phu Quoc, an island that's actually closer to Cambodia than the Vietnamese mainland. This is a haven for seaside enjoyment, a place of white-sand beaches, dense, mountainous jungle riven with hiking trails, coral reefs for snorkelling and diving, and excellent markets. There's affordable luxury accommodation, too. If you want somewhere a little off the beaten path, try Nam Du, a tiny archipelago south of Phu Quoc, with no fancy resorts or modern comforts, though gorgeous scenery and laid-back charm. Further north, the Cham Islands, off Hoi An, are far more developed, and famous for their food. Ly Son, nearby, is a sleepier alternative, where the scenery is rugged and spectacular, and you can camp right on the beach. The beaches Vietnam is a long, slim country with plenty of coastline, so it makes sense it would also have excellent beaches. And it does. What sets Vietnam apart from the rest, however, is that those beaches often come with affordable luxury accommodation nearby, not to mention sensational food. Take Da Nang for example: this is the home of My Khe beach, a long arc of golden sand lined with beach resorts that are high-end though surprisingly affordable. The beach is also still home to fishermen using traditional circular boats and excellent, no-frills seafood restaurants alongside. Near Hoi An, meanwhile, An Bang is a beautiful, tranquil spot with calm waters and white sand. Ho Coc, just a few hours from Ho Chi Minh City, is also popular. And Nha Trang, Vietnam's answer to the Gold Coast, is a seaside city with endless watersports options, high-rise hotels and traveller-friendly restaurants. The waterways There are two key waterways to consider if you're planning a cruising adventure in Vietnam: the mighty Mekong Delta in the south, and Ha Long Bay in the north (along with its nearby locales, Bai Tu Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay). The Delta is an incredible place to explore, where you will find tourist-heavy floating markets in the likes of Can Tho, but then also fascinating, locals-only produce markets in Sa Dec. You will find busy cities and sleepy hamlets, choking river traffic and tranquil waterways. This is a place to explore on water, with myriad of cruising options from single-day explorations, to classic journeys that travel upriver on the Mekong into Cambodia, showing two vastly different sides of South-East Asia. In the north of Vietnam, Ha Long Bay and its surrounds showcase those postcard limestone karsts, sheer cliffs that just appear from out of the water, soaring into the sky. There are floating villages here, small towns on islands, larger cities on the likes of Cat Ba Island. And plenty of cruise options for multi-day exploration. The mountains It seems impossible to believe that this is the same country, that this place of the Mekong Delta and the beaches of Da Nang could also be home to Sa Pa, high in the mountains, surrounded by terraced rice paddies and curtains of cloud. Vietnam deserves to be renowned for its mountains, places to escape the heat and humidity of the coastal lowlands and, in the case of Sa Pa at least, experience the cultures of ethnic minority groups who call the area home. There are regular handicraft and food markets in Sa Pa, extensive hiking opportunities, rivers and waterfalls to bathe in, mountain-biking tracks, and comfortable lodge-style accommodation or even homestays to indulge in full immersion. Further south, Da Lat is also a highland getaway. Once a popular holiday destination for French authorities, these days it's the perfect place to escape the heat and chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. Stroll and enjoy the French architecture, the central lake, and even a few golf courses. There's plenty of hiking in the nearby mountains, too. The stays The Sofitel Legend Metropole ( is one of the world's great hotels, an establishment oozing history, a former favourite of Graham Greene, Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham, and more recently the likes of Catherine Deneuve and Angelina Jolie. It's spectacular, luxurious, historic. And how much does it cost to stay here? Less than $400 a night. Luxury in Vietnam comes at a surprisingly reasonable cost. Try the Reverie Saigon ( a ridiculously opulent hotel in the southern hub, which is also less than $400 a night. Or how about the InterContinental Danang ( outrageous luxury at about $700 a night. That's the top end. Vietnam also boasts a range of accommodation options that will take you all the way down through excellent mid-range hotels to hostel beds or B&Bs at less than $20 a night. Travel through rural areas, and you can also stay in traditional wooden longhouses, comfortable homestays, boutique hotels and beachside bungalows. The thread that binds these disparate options is the excellent value that they all offer, particularly to those spending the Australian dollar. The details Loading Fly Getting to Vietnam from the east coast of Australia is simple, with direct flights from Jetstar ( VietJet ( Qantas ( and Vietnam Airlines ( Ride To get around Vietnam, the train network is reliable ( though budget flights can also be used for longer distances. Tour For touring options in Vietnam, see Intrepid Travel ( and Wendy Wu Tours ( For cruising in the north, try Athena Cruise ( while on the Mekong, see Aqua Expeditions ( Foodies in Ho Chi Minh City, try Saigon Food Tour ( When The best time to visit are the shoulder seasons, autumn and spring – the north can be cold in winter, and the south very hot in summer. Five things you should know about Vietnam There's still a north-south divide Vietnam was only officially split for 21 years, a period of history that ended 50 years ago. Yet visitors will still notice differences. In the north, locals tend to be a little more reserved, a little less open – immediately at least – to strangers. The south is known for its more relaxed attitude and sense of humour. The food is different, too: in the north the flavours are lighter and more subtle, while in the south they go hard on the fresh herbs, the garlic, chilli and fish sauce. It's the American War Don't mention the war – it's still a touchy subject. Though, if you have to, bear in mind the Vietnamese don't call it the Vietnam War, for obvious reasons. Here, it's the American War, and its repercussions can still be felt some 50 years later. There are landmarks and museums that preserve the war's history, from the Cu Chi tunnels to the War Remnants Museum and beyond, while seedy bars such as Ho Chi Minh City's Apocalypse Now trade on the history that tourists are so often interested in. That restaurant is… not that restaurant Here's the thing with Vietnam: someone tells you about this amazing restaurant, and even the area to find it, and yet you get there and discover there are a whole heap of eateries with that same, or similar, name. What gives? Partly, this is down to the Vietnamese convention of naming the restaurant after the dish it's best known for (pho and banh mi among the most common), with only an added street number or family name to distinguish it. Respect your elders We've spoken here about the divide between northern and southern Vietnam, the varying attitudes and etiquette. There are, however, many social rules that unite Vietnamese across the country, and one of those is the deep respect for elders. When greeting groups of locals in Vietnam, it's polite to greet the oldest members first. If you're eating with locals, it's also good form to allow the oldest diners to begin eating before you tuck in. Dining culture Just two more things to bear in mind, as a visitor, when you're eating in Vietnam. The first is that there is no official tipping culture in the country – it's not expected, and many locals don't. But that's not to say that it won't be appreciated. Food in Vietnam tends to be cheap by Australian standards, so tipping 10 per cent shouldn't be a hassle. And while we're here: don't order what you can't eat. It's considered very impolite in Vietnam to leave food, a sign that your meal hasn't been satisfactory.
The Age
08-05-2025
- The Age
Move over, Bali and Japan: The other Asian country we're obsessed with
There's an Asian nation we're obsessed with, and it's not Japan. Yes, the Land of the Rising Sun is incredibly popular with Australian travellers, an interest that shows no sign of waning. But we're talking about another place that is blessed with some of the finest food on the planet plus landscapes that range from delta lowlands to mountain highs. It has two of the world's great cities, with culture that's both ancient and modern, and is a place of rich tradition mixed with headlong progress into an exciting future. Where? Vietnam. There's been a steady increase in interest in Vietnam among Australian travellers over several decades, though right now, it's booming. From 2023 to 2024, there was a 35 per cent increase in Australian travellers heading to Vietnam. It was our ninth most popular destination last year, when almost 450,000 Australians visited. That was an increase of almost 80 per cent on the figures from a decade ago. So what are we getting out of this country that we're unable to experience in others? Let us count the ways. Firstly, you can get to Vietnam cheaply, thanks to direct flights from Australia with budget carriers Jetstar and Vietjet and there are also competitive fares from Vietnam Airlines and Qantas. It helps, too, that Vietnam is so outrageously affordable once you're there, with luxurious accommodation and lavish dining experiences within reach for many who could only dream of such things in, well, Australia. The country also just celebrated 50 years since the end of the Vietnam War (known there as the American War) which has brought a further sense of buoyancy. But it's also so much more than that. The people You're in for a good time in Vietnam, and much of that will be down to the people you meet and interact with on your journey. The Vietnamese are a proud though gregarious bunch (something you will particularly notice the further south you travel), open and generous and up for some fun. There's a sense of barely controlled chaos to Vietnam, as you will discover the first time you try to cross a road, which helps you understand the flexible and amiable nature of many locals, who long ago learned not to sweat the small stuff. It's important to remember, too, that this isn't a mono ethnic nation: travel around, and you will meet groups of Hmong, Dao, Khmer and Tay people, each with their own culture, character and traditions. The history How far back do you want to go? To journey through this country is to discover temple ruins of the Cham nations dating back to the 4th century at My Son; to see Hanoi's Temple of Literature, built after the nation emerged from Chinese rule in 1070; to visit the Imperial City of Hue, built in 1804 during the Nguyen dynasty. Then there are the signs of more recent history: the French facades of old Hanoi and Hoi An; the Cu Chi tunnels, an extensive underground network used during the Vietnam War; the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, where you're reminded that here, it's actually the 'American war'. But you don't even have to visit an official site to feel the deep sense of history and tradition that pervades Vietnam. Just walk around. The food If you travel for food then destinations don't get much better. We're talking pho, of course, the soothing, aromatic noodle soup served in no-frills street side eateries across the country for little more than a few dollars a bowl. But then we're also talking about a whole suite of dishes and styles of eating that are incredibly good, calling in flavours that range from smoky to spicy, sweet to savoury, delicate to all-powerful. We can name-check banh mi, banh xeo, bun cha, bun bo Hue and goi cuon, but there's so much more. Vietnamese cuisine relies heavily on fresh herbs and crunchy vegetables, giving its dishes a freshness and purity of flavour that will stick in your mind long after memories of historic sites and beach hangs have faded. And it's all so spectacularly affordable and accessible, often eaten while sitting on tiny plastic stools on busy pavements as scooters zoom past and pedestrians go about their business. Food is life in Vietnam, it's a source of great local pride and daily enjoyment, and your only mission is to try as much of it as you can. The drinks There are two key drinks that you must try in Vietnam. The first: coffee. Vietnam is one of those rare countries with a unique coffee culture that is also deeply ingrained. Coffee here is brewed in individual portions in a phin, a small steel contraption that sits on the top of a cup or glass. This distinctive coffee then drips down onto condensed milk and sometimes ice, in which case you have a 'ca phe sua da', coffee with milk and ice, one of the world's great beverages. Next, particularly in northern Vietnam, seek out bia hoi, or 'fresh beer'. This beer is brewed daily and only matured for a very short time, so it's light and refreshing, and is served in dedicated bars that also churn out appropriately spicy, salty snacks to pair with the beverage. As with the coffee, the ritual and the setting are as important and enjoyable as the drink itself. The cities + towns Two cities, two characters, two histories, two vibes, two amazing experiences: that's what you get with Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the yin and yang of modern-day Vietnam, the capitals of the old north and south, and two of the most exciting cities on the planet. Hanoi is all French-colonial facades and narrow Old Quarter streets, lakeside tai chi sessions and street-side noodles. It's vibrant, scholarly, traditional. Ho Chi Minh City, still commonly referred to as Saigon in the south, is the nation's modernist heartland, with rivers of scooters, pulsating nightlife and an ever-friendly disposition. It's a city that will seem to have morphed significantly every time you visit. Both are worthy of several days of your time. But then look in between: Hoi An, with its history and charm, not to mention the best banh mi shops on the planet; Da Lat, cool and relaxed, a former French colonial hideaway; Da Nang, a mixture of seaside luxury and historic sites and proximity to Hoi An; Hue, the ancient capital, with its well-preserved Imperial City, and Nha Trang, beachy and cool, the place to relax in the sun. The islands This may not be the attraction that immediately springs to mind when you think of Vietnam. But this country's islands have plenty to offer, from the classic ideals of tropical paradise to more cerebral attractions of culture and history. Begin in the south, at Phu Quoc, an island that's actually closer to Cambodia than the Vietnamese mainland. This is a haven for seaside enjoyment, a place of white-sand beaches, dense, mountainous jungle riven with hiking trails, coral reefs for snorkelling and diving, and excellent markets. There's affordable luxury accommodation, too. If you want somewhere a little off the beaten path, try Nam Du, a tiny archipelago south of Phu Quoc, with no fancy resorts or modern comforts, though gorgeous scenery and laid-back charm. Further north, the Cham Islands, off Hoi An, are far more developed, and famous for their food. Ly Son, nearby, is a sleepier alternative, where the scenery is rugged and spectacular, and you can camp right on the beach. The beaches Vietnam is a long, slim country with plenty of coastline, so it makes sense it would also have excellent beaches. And it does. What sets Vietnam apart from the rest, however, is that those beaches often come with affordable luxury accommodation nearby, not to mention sensational food. Take Da Nang for example: this is the home of My Khe beach, a long arc of golden sand lined with beach resorts that are high-end though surprisingly affordable. The beach is also still home to fishermen using traditional circular boats and excellent, no-frills seafood restaurants alongside. Near Hoi An, meanwhile, An Bang is a beautiful, tranquil spot with calm waters and white sand. Ho Coc, just a few hours from Ho Chi Minh City, is also popular. And Nha Trang, Vietnam's answer to the Gold Coast, is a seaside city with endless watersports options, high-rise hotels and traveller-friendly restaurants. The waterways There are two key waterways to consider if you're planning a cruising adventure in Vietnam: the mighty Mekong Delta in the south, and Ha Long Bay in the north (along with its nearby locales, Bai Tu Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay). The Delta is an incredible place to explore, where you will find tourist-heavy floating markets in the likes of Can Tho, but then also fascinating, locals-only produce markets in Sa Dec. You will find busy cities and sleepy hamlets, choking river traffic and tranquil waterways. This is a place to explore on water, with myriad of cruising options from single-day explorations, to classic journeys that travel upriver on the Mekong into Cambodia, showing two vastly different sides of South-East Asia. In the north of Vietnam, Ha Long Bay and its surrounds showcase those postcard limestone karsts, sheer cliffs that just appear from out of the water, soaring into the sky. There are floating villages here, small towns on islands, larger cities on the likes of Cat Ba Island. And plenty of cruise options for multi-day exploration. The mountains It seems impossible to believe that this is the same country, that this place of the Mekong Delta and the beaches of Da Nang could also be home to Sa Pa, high in the mountains, surrounded by terraced rice paddies and curtains of cloud. Vietnam deserves to be renowned for its mountains, places to escape the heat and humidity of the coastal lowlands and, in the case of Sa Pa at least, experience the cultures of ethnic minority groups who call the area home. There are regular handicraft and food markets in Sa Pa, extensive hiking opportunities, rivers and waterfalls to bathe in, mountain-biking tracks, and comfortable lodge-style accommodation or even homestays to indulge in full immersion. Further south, Da Lat is also a highland getaway. Once a popular holiday destination for French authorities, these days it's the perfect place to escape the heat and chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. Stroll and enjoy the French architecture, the central lake, and even a few golf courses. There's plenty of hiking in the nearby mountains, too. The stays The Sofitel Legend Metropole ( is one of the world's great hotels, an establishment oozing history, a former favourite of Graham Greene, Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham, and more recently the likes of Catherine Deneuve and Angelina Jolie. It's spectacular, luxurious, historic. And how much does it cost to stay here? Less than $400 a night. Luxury in Vietnam comes at a surprisingly reasonable cost. Try the Reverie Saigon ( a ridiculously opulent hotel in the southern hub, which is also less than $400 a night. Or how about the InterContinental Danang ( outrageous luxury at about $700 a night. That's the top end. Vietnam also boasts a range of accommodation options that will take you all the way down through excellent mid-range hotels to hostel beds or B&Bs at less than $20 a night. Travel through rural areas, and you can also stay in traditional wooden longhouses, comfortable homestays, boutique hotels and beachside bungalows. The thread that binds these disparate options is the excellent value that they all offer, particularly to those spending the Australian dollar. The details Loading Fly Getting to Vietnam from the east coast of Australia is simple, with direct flights from Jetstar ( VietJet ( Qantas ( and Vietnam Airlines ( Ride To get around Vietnam, the train network is reliable ( though budget flights can also be used for longer distances. Tour For touring options in Vietnam, see Intrepid Travel ( and Wendy Wu Tours ( For cruising in the north, try Athena Cruise ( while on the Mekong, see Aqua Expeditions ( Foodies in Ho Chi Minh City, try Saigon Food Tour ( When The best time to visit are the shoulder seasons, autumn and spring – the north can be cold in winter, and the south very hot in summer. More Five things you should know about Vietnam There's still a north-south divide Vietnam was only officially split for 21 years, a period of history that ended 50 years ago. Yet visitors will still notice differences. In the north, locals tend to be a little more reserved, a little less open – immediately at least – to strangers. The south is known for its more relaxed attitude and sense of humour. The food is different, too: in the north the flavours are lighter and more subtle, while in the south they go hard on the fresh herbs, the garlic, chilli and fish sauce. It's the American War Don't mention the war – it's still a touchy subject. Though, if you have to, bear in mind the Vietnamese don't call it the Vietnam War, for obvious reasons. Here, it's the American War, and its repercussions can still be felt some 50 years later. There are landmarks and museums that preserve the war's history, from the Cu Chi tunnels to the War Remnants Museum and beyond, while seedy bars such as Ho Chi Minh City's Apocalypse Now trade on the history that tourists are so often interested in. That restaurant is… not that restaurant Here's the thing with Vietnam: someone tells you about this amazing restaurant, and even the area to find it, and yet you get there and discover there are a whole heap of eateries with that same, or similar, name. What gives? Partly, this is down to the Vietnamese convention of naming the restaurant after the dish it's best known for (pho and banh mi among the most common), with only an added street number or family name to distinguish it. Respect your elders We've spoken here about the divide between northern and southern Vietnam, the varying attitudes and etiquette. There are, however, many social rules that unite Vietnamese across the country, and one of those is the deep respect for elders. When greeting groups of locals in Vietnam, it's polite to greet the oldest members first. If you're eating with locals, it's also good form to allow the oldest diners to begin eating before you tuck in. Dining culture Just two more things to bear in mind, as a visitor, when you're eating in Vietnam. The first is that there is no official tipping culture in the country – it's not expected, and many locals don't. But that's not to say that it won't be appreciated. Food in Vietnam tends to be cheap by Australian standards, so tipping 10 per cent shouldn't be a hassle. And while we're here: don't order what you can't eat. It's considered very impolite in Vietnam to leave food, a sign that your meal hasn't been satisfactory.
Sydney Morning Herald
08-05-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
Move over, Bali and Japan: The other Asian country we're obsessed with
There's an Asian nation we're obsessed with, and it's not Japan. Yes, the Land of the Rising Sun is incredibly popular with Australian travellers, an interest that shows no sign of waning. But we're talking about another place that is blessed with some of the finest food on the planet plus landscapes that range from delta lowlands to mountain highs. It has two of the world's great cities, with culture that's both ancient and modern, and is a place of rich tradition mixed with headlong progress into an exciting future. Where? Vietnam. There's been a steady increase in interest in Vietnam among Australian travellers over several decades, though right now, it's booming. From 2023 to 2024, there was a 35 per cent increase in Australian travellers heading to Vietnam. It was our ninth most popular destination last year, when almost 450,000 Australians visited. That was an increase of almost 80 per cent on the figures from a decade ago. So what are we getting out of this country that we're unable to experience in others? Let us count the ways. Firstly, you can get to Vietnam cheaply, thanks to direct flights from Australia with budget carriers Jetstar and Vietjet and there are also competitive fares from Vietnam Airlines and Qantas. It helps, too, that Vietnam is so outrageously affordable once you're there, with luxurious accommodation and lavish dining experiences within reach for many who could only dream of such things in, well, Australia. The country also just celebrated 50 years since the end of the Vietnam War (known there as the American War) which has brought a further sense of buoyancy. But it's also so much more than that. The people You're in for a good time in Vietnam, and much of that will be down to the people you meet and interact with on your journey. The Vietnamese are a proud though gregarious bunch (something you will particularly notice the further south you travel), open and generous and up for some fun. There's a sense of barely controlled chaos to Vietnam, as you will discover the first time you try to cross a road, which helps you understand the flexible and amiable nature of many locals, who long ago learned not to sweat the small stuff. It's important to remember, too, that this isn't a mono ethnic nation: travel around, and you will meet groups of Hmong, Dao, Khmer and Tay people, each with their own culture, character and traditions. The history How far back do you want to go? To journey through this country is to discover temple ruins of the Cham nations dating back to the 4th century at My Son; to see Hanoi's Temple of Literature, built after the nation emerged from Chinese rule in 1070; to visit the Imperial City of Hue, built in 1804 during the Nguyen dynasty. Then there are the signs of more recent history: the French facades of old Hanoi and Hoi An; the Cu Chi tunnels, an extensive underground network used during the Vietnam War; the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, where you're reminded that here, it's actually the 'American war'. But you don't even have to visit an official site to feel the deep sense of history and tradition that pervades Vietnam. Just walk around. The food If you travel for food then destinations don't get much better. We're talking pho, of course, the soothing, aromatic noodle soup served in no-frills street side eateries across the country for little more than a few dollars a bowl. But then we're also talking about a whole suite of dishes and styles of eating that are incredibly good, calling in flavours that range from smoky to spicy, sweet to savoury, delicate to all-powerful. We can name-check banh mi, banh xeo, bun cha, bun bo Hue and goi cuon, but there's so much more. Vietnamese cuisine relies heavily on fresh herbs and crunchy vegetables, giving its dishes a freshness and purity of flavour that will stick in your mind long after memories of historic sites and beach hangs have faded. And it's all so spectacularly affordable and accessible, often eaten while sitting on tiny plastic stools on busy pavements as scooters zoom past and pedestrians go about their business. Food is life in Vietnam, it's a source of great local pride and daily enjoyment, and your only mission is to try as much of it as you can. The drinks There are two key drinks that you must try in Vietnam. The first: coffee. Vietnam is one of those rare countries with a unique coffee culture that is also deeply ingrained. Coffee here is brewed in individual portions in a phin, a small steel contraption that sits on the top of a cup or glass. This distinctive coffee then drips down onto condensed milk and sometimes ice, in which case you have a 'ca phe sua da', coffee with milk and ice, one of the world's great beverages. Next, particularly in northern Vietnam, seek out bia hoi, or 'fresh beer'. This beer is brewed daily and only matured for a very short time, so it's light and refreshing, and is served in dedicated bars that also churn out appropriately spicy, salty snacks to pair with the beverage. As with the coffee, the ritual and the setting are as important and enjoyable as the drink itself. The cities + towns Two cities, two characters, two histories, two vibes, two amazing experiences: that's what you get with Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the yin and yang of modern-day Vietnam, the capitals of the old north and south, and two of the most exciting cities on the planet. Hanoi is all French-colonial facades and narrow Old Quarter streets, lakeside tai chi sessions and street-side noodles. It's vibrant, scholarly, traditional. Ho Chi Minh City, still commonly referred to as Saigon in the south, is the nation's modernist heartland, with rivers of scooters, pulsating nightlife and an ever-friendly disposition. It's a city that will seem to have morphed significantly every time you visit. Both are worthy of several days of your time. But then look in between: Hoi An, with its history and charm, not to mention the best banh mi shops on the planet; Da Lat, cool and relaxed, a former French colonial hideaway; Da Nang, a mixture of seaside luxury and historic sites and proximity to Hoi An; Hue, the ancient capital, with its well-preserved Imperial City, and Nha Trang, beachy and cool, the place to relax in the sun. The islands This may not be the attraction that immediately springs to mind when you think of Vietnam. But this country's islands have plenty to offer, from the classic ideals of tropical paradise to more cerebral attractions of culture and history. Begin in the south, at Phu Quoc, an island that's actually closer to Cambodia than the Vietnamese mainland. This is a haven for seaside enjoyment, a place of white-sand beaches, dense, mountainous jungle riven with hiking trails, coral reefs for snorkelling and diving, and excellent markets. There's affordable luxury accommodation, too. If you want somewhere a little off the beaten path, try Nam Du, a tiny archipelago south of Phu Quoc, with no fancy resorts or modern comforts, though gorgeous scenery and laid-back charm. Further north, the Cham Islands, off Hoi An, are far more developed, and famous for their food. Ly Son, nearby, is a sleepier alternative, where the scenery is rugged and spectacular, and you can camp right on the beach. The beaches Vietnam is a long, slim country with plenty of coastline, so it makes sense it would also have excellent beaches. And it does. What sets Vietnam apart from the rest, however, is that those beaches often come with affordable luxury accommodation nearby, not to mention sensational food. Take Da Nang for example: this is the home of My Khe beach, a long arc of golden sand lined with beach resorts that are high-end though surprisingly affordable. The beach is also still home to fishermen using traditional circular boats and excellent, no-frills seafood restaurants alongside. Near Hoi An, meanwhile, An Bang is a beautiful, tranquil spot with calm waters and white sand. Ho Coc, just a few hours from Ho Chi Minh City, is also popular. And Nha Trang, Vietnam's answer to the Gold Coast, is a seaside city with endless watersports options, high-rise hotels and traveller-friendly restaurants. The waterways There are two key waterways to consider if you're planning a cruising adventure in Vietnam: the mighty Mekong Delta in the south, and Ha Long Bay in the north (along with its nearby locales, Bai Tu Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay). The Delta is an incredible place to explore, where you will find tourist-heavy floating markets in the likes of Can Tho, but then also fascinating, locals-only produce markets in Sa Dec. You will find busy cities and sleepy hamlets, choking river traffic and tranquil waterways. This is a place to explore on water, with myriad of cruising options from single-day explorations, to classic journeys that travel upriver on the Mekong into Cambodia, showing two vastly different sides of South-East Asia. In the north of Vietnam, Ha Long Bay and its surrounds showcase those postcard limestone karsts, sheer cliffs that just appear from out of the water, soaring into the sky. There are floating villages here, small towns on islands, larger cities on the likes of Cat Ba Island. And plenty of cruise options for multi-day exploration. The mountains It seems impossible to believe that this is the same country, that this place of the Mekong Delta and the beaches of Da Nang could also be home to Sa Pa, high in the mountains, surrounded by terraced rice paddies and curtains of cloud. Vietnam deserves to be renowned for its mountains, places to escape the heat and humidity of the coastal lowlands and, in the case of Sa Pa at least, experience the cultures of ethnic minority groups who call the area home. There are regular handicraft and food markets in Sa Pa, extensive hiking opportunities, rivers and waterfalls to bathe in, mountain-biking tracks, and comfortable lodge-style accommodation or even homestays to indulge in full immersion. Further south, Da Lat is also a highland getaway. Once a popular holiday destination for French authorities, these days it's the perfect place to escape the heat and chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. Stroll and enjoy the French architecture, the central lake, and even a few golf courses. There's plenty of hiking in the nearby mountains, too. The stays The Sofitel Legend Metropole ( is one of the world's great hotels, an establishment oozing history, a former favourite of Graham Greene, Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham, and more recently the likes of Catherine Deneuve and Angelina Jolie. It's spectacular, luxurious, historic. And how much does it cost to stay here? Less than $400 a night. Luxury in Vietnam comes at a surprisingly reasonable cost. Try the Reverie Saigon ( a ridiculously opulent hotel in the southern hub, which is also less than $400 a night. Or how about the InterContinental Danang ( outrageous luxury at about $700 a night. That's the top end. Vietnam also boasts a range of accommodation options that will take you all the way down through excellent mid-range hotels to hostel beds or B&Bs at less than $20 a night. Travel through rural areas, and you can also stay in traditional wooden longhouses, comfortable homestays, boutique hotels and beachside bungalows. The thread that binds these disparate options is the excellent value that they all offer, particularly to those spending the Australian dollar. The details Loading Fly Getting to Vietnam from the east coast of Australia is simple, with direct flights from Jetstar ( VietJet ( Qantas ( and Vietnam Airlines ( Ride To get around Vietnam, the train network is reliable ( though budget flights can also be used for longer distances. Tour For touring options in Vietnam, see Intrepid Travel ( and Wendy Wu Tours ( For cruising in the north, try Athena Cruise ( while on the Mekong, see Aqua Expeditions ( Foodies in Ho Chi Minh City, try Saigon Food Tour ( When The best time to visit are the shoulder seasons, autumn and spring – the north can be cold in winter, and the south very hot in summer. More Five things you should know about Vietnam There's still a north-south divide Vietnam was only officially split for 21 years, a period of history that ended 50 years ago. Yet visitors will still notice differences. In the north, locals tend to be a little more reserved, a little less open – immediately at least – to strangers. The south is known for its more relaxed attitude and sense of humour. The food is different, too: in the north the flavours are lighter and more subtle, while in the south they go hard on the fresh herbs, the garlic, chilli and fish sauce. It's the American War Don't mention the war – it's still a touchy subject. Though, if you have to, bear in mind the Vietnamese don't call it the Vietnam War, for obvious reasons. Here, it's the American War, and its repercussions can still be felt some 50 years later. There are landmarks and museums that preserve the war's history, from the Cu Chi tunnels to the War Remnants Museum and beyond, while seedy bars such as Ho Chi Minh City's Apocalypse Now trade on the history that tourists are so often interested in. That restaurant is… not that restaurant Here's the thing with Vietnam: someone tells you about this amazing restaurant, and even the area to find it, and yet you get there and discover there are a whole heap of eateries with that same, or similar, name. What gives? Partly, this is down to the Vietnamese convention of naming the restaurant after the dish it's best known for (pho and banh mi among the most common), with only an added street number or family name to distinguish it. Respect your elders We've spoken here about the divide between northern and southern Vietnam, the varying attitudes and etiquette. There are, however, many social rules that unite Vietnamese across the country, and one of those is the deep respect for elders. When greeting groups of locals in Vietnam, it's polite to greet the oldest members first. If you're eating with locals, it's also good form to allow the oldest diners to begin eating before you tuck in. Dining culture Just two more things to bear in mind, as a visitor, when you're eating in Vietnam. The first is that there is no official tipping culture in the country – it's not expected, and many locals don't. But that's not to say that it won't be appreciated. Food in Vietnam tends to be cheap by Australian standards, so tipping 10 per cent shouldn't be a hassle. And while we're here: don't order what you can't eat. It's considered very impolite in Vietnam to leave food, a sign that your meal hasn't been satisfactory.
New York Times
30-04-2025
- Politics
- New York Times
Ho Chi Minh City Celebrates the Fall of Saigon
Vietnam marked the 50th anniversary of the end of what it calls the American War on Wednesday with a boisterous parade in Ho Chi Minh City featuring soldiers, dancers and speeches celebrating what the country's communist leader called 'a triumph of justice.' The event brought tens if not hundreds of thousands, according to state media, including many who camped out overnight for the morning's festivities. 'The atmosphere was very special,' said Nguyen Thi Song Anh, 18, who joined some 12th-grade classmates on a crowded sidewalk near the Opera House. 'It was important for me to feel part of this country — and part of this history.' The scenes of celebration, with a sea of red and yellow representing the flag of Vietnam in front of high-end French and American retailers, pointed to just how distant the final day of this country's grueling war has become. Ho Chi Minh City, also still known as Saigon, is now a vibrant metropolis of 9 million people, where skyscrapers shadow the handful of buildings with wartime history and the streets are filled with locally made electric vehicles and young people snapping selfies for Instagram. On most days, people will tell you the war is irrelevant, too old for concern, except perhaps as a source of gritty stories that drive the young to be grateful for what they have. But April 30 is different. Every year, Vietnam honors the dead and recounts how the underdogs of the North definitively defeated the French, the Americans and ultimately South Vietnam. On Wednesday, To Lam, the top leader of the Communist Party of Vietnam, struck many of the usual chords in a speech before international visitors, which did not include the U.S. ambassador. But the U.S. Consul General, Susan Burns, was there — a softening of an earlier directive from Washington barring senior diplomats from anniversary events. Mr. Lam described the conflict as a struggle for national independence and a resistance movement against French colonialism and U.S. aggression. He celebrated 'the liberation of the South,' which Washington has generally referred to as 'the fall of Saigon.' Vietnam also included troops from China in Wednesday's parade for the first time, providing public recognition of Beijing's assistance during the war. However it was not a huge surprise: A video of Chinese troops at a rehearsal singing the popular patriotic song, 'As If Uncle Ho Were With Us on the Day of Great Victory' had already been shared widely on social media. Still, there were also hints of a more conciliatory approach to past enemies. Even as Vietnam grits its teeth in negotiations with the White House over proposed tariffs set (and postponed) at 46 percent, Mr. Lam noted that 2025 is also when the U.S. and Vietnam celebrate 30 years of diplomatic ties. Reaffirming an essay he published Sunday, acknowledging a need for greater reconciliation between North and South, he also spoke about 'respecting differences.' 'All Vietnamese are sons and daughters of this country,' he said. 'All are entitled to live, to work, to pursue happiness and love.' Ms. Song Anh, the 12th-grader, like many others on the parade route, found the message compelling. Her grandfathers had fought for the North, but she said it was time to 'overcome our biases.' 'We are all Vietnamese,' she said. 'We all carry a sense of pride.' On Wednesday, it was on full display. Billboards juxtaposed Ho Chi Minh's gaze with images of new bridges, connecting past struggles to modern development. Families sang patriotic songs. The young and hip snapped photos of helicopters flying over Independence Palace, the seat of the South's government, which northern troops seized on April 30, 1975. Asked if there was anything they would change, a few parade-goers spoke about the need to eliminate corruption, to create an economy that served all more equally. But many also pointed with admiration to new buildings that would have been unimaginable in the 1970s and '80s, when the war-wrecked economy was on its knees. 'It's so emotional, to see all the development and changes happening in Vietnam,' said Tran Quang Duc, 67, who had traveled from the province that Ho Chi Minh was from and wore his military uniform on Wednesday. 'I don't think anyone would want to fight Vietnam now,' he added, noting that he fought the Chinese in the war that broke out in 1979. 'We're strong and confident.' We met beside the Rex hotel, where the U.S. military used to hold its briefings, claiming the war was being won. Reporters called them the 'five o'clock follies.' A statue of Ho Chi Minh now stands nearby. Vu Thi Ninh Thuy, 42, gathered there after the parade to take pictures with a few friends. She said she had come out early that morning because the 50th anniversary was a singular event. 'I wanted to be part of it,' she said. 'I wanted to feel what it was like to live in historic times.'
