Latest news with #Amouage
Business of Fashion
10 hours ago
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Niche Perfumers Pay to Win
While the greater beauty slowdown may be bringing about the end of the Lipstick Index, perhaps it's led to the emergence of a different product as an economic indicator: Fragrance. Sales in the category rose 4 percent in the prestige channel and 8 percent in the mass market in the first quarter of 2025, according to intelligence firm Circana. And while body mists and designer scents are driving the mass category, it's niche fragrances that are keeping prestige sales afloat. A recent NielsenIQ report saw indie brands claim 23 percent of overall fragrance sales, with its 34 percent year-over-year growth outpacing the overall category, driven by demand for esoteric and expensive new perfumes popularized on social media, especially TikTok. Its perception as an affordable luxury buy, and one that helps buyers express their individuality, has contributed to their rise. The indies have been growing 'exponentially,' said Linda Levy, president of the Fragrance Foundation. 'They're often on a level playing field with big brands in direct-to-consumer storytelling and engagement.' That success has brought more competition from perfumery's traditional players — and their deeper pockets. Indies have to walk a tightrope to survive: they must follow Big Perfumery's business blueprint, but are also expected to provide elevated quality with surprising compositions and precious ingredients. Benoît Verdier, co-founder of perfume house Ex Nihilo, previously told The Business of Beauty that their competition was 'the big guys', referring to conglomerates like Estée Lauder, LVMH and Puig. 'If we want to compete against them, we need power.' ADVERTISEMENT To stay ahead, and to ensure their offerings remain singular, they're investing heavily in various corners of their businesses — in their perfumers, in their retail spaces and in their juices themselves. Omani fragrance house Amouage, recently backed by L'Oréal, lavishes both time and money on its perfumes, with long maturation times and potent ingredient concentrations. (Amouage) For perfume houses like Marc-Antoine Barrois, Kriger and Amouage, these investments are crucial to justifying their lofty prices, starting at around $160 per ounce. And their pay-to-win strategies are working. In 2024, the Oman-based Amouage recorded 30 percent growth, and annual retail sales now exceed $260 million, a figure that's more than doubled in the last three years. Marc-Antoine Barrois, headquartered in France, did nearly $70 million in retail sales in 2024, and is projected to grow to $100 million in 2025, its eponymous founder and artistic director told The Business of Beauty. Many indies have been scooped up by private equity firms: In 2024, D.S. & Durga was acquired by private equity firm Manzanita Capital, and L'Oréal purchased a stake in Amouage the same year. But even after a cash infusion, niche perfumers have to work to maintain their credibility. D.S. & Durga Co-founder Kavi Moltz told BoF that, post-acquisition, 'we're now spending more time on the creations and our community.' A Fine Balance It can be challenging to decide to divert precious resources to a superior — and eye-poppingly expensive — quality of jasmine, when more pressing areas like escalating supply chain costs, inflated MOQs and viable distribution channels need cash infusions. But for many niche perfumers, passion supersedes profit. One universal touchpoint is destination retail spaces that manifest slower, immersive and meaningful storytelling experiences. Chief executive Marco Parsiegla said that Amouage's boutiques are 'both commercially impactful and creatively essential' and have turned a profit more quickly than anticipated. Standalone retail spaces can be costly, but they have more profit potential than wholesale, allowing for greater consumer engagement, explains Paul Austin, founder of fragrance and branding agency Austin Advisory Group, and co-creator of LilaNur Parfums. Many niche perfumers have a mix of both: Amouage is stocked at over 1,000 department stores and fragrance boutiques worldwide, in addition to its 12 standalone boutiques. Same for Barrois, whose relatively modest offering of seven perfume SKUs sustains three standalone boutiques. 'I wanted my stores to be a place where people can escape their reality,' Marc-Antoine Barrois said. Krigler keeps supply rarified, setting up jewel-box-like spaces in the most exclusive hotels and never exceeding one door per city. Its Parisian outpost opened in December last year at The Peninsula Paris, at a cost of $2 million, counting the value of archival trunks and Baccarat crystal decanters on display. The rent for the 320 square foot space is almost in the six figures in euros, said a source with knowledge of the brand's business. ADVERTISEMENT That level of spend is worth it to fifth-generation owner Ben Krigler because it allows them to connect with high-spending clients. On opening day, a Qatari royal cleaned out their inventory, buying limited edition flaçons and every bottle of an exclusive collection including the testers, each worth $1,700. Her shopping spree brought in €100,000 ($114,000). 'A big portion of the store was empty,' said Krigler, who had to fly in employees from other stores with suitcases full of perfume the next day. Then it comes down to the juice itself. Fragrance houses spend lavishly on marquee name perfumers, who then go on to spend lavishly on ingredients. Barrois uses Quentin Bisch, a Givaudan perfumer known for Good Girl by Carolina Herrera and Parfums de Marly's Delina series. 'We have no limits on Quentin's time or on the ingredients we put in,' Barrois said. 'I don't know what it costs exactly and don't want to.' Bisch's scents, Ganymede and Tilia, are hits for the brand, together accounting for over 60 percent of sales. Perfumer and couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois, foreground, with his perfumer of choice, Quentin Bisch. 'We have no limits on Quentin's time or on the ingredients we put in,' Barrois said. 'I don't know what it costs exactly and don't want to.' (Jérôme Emeriau) Cash is not the only currency spent on niche fragrances, which often need time to mature. Amouage's approach to the aging process makes liberal use of both, which chief creative officer Renaud Salmon said is a non-negotiable part of their process: 'It unlocks the full potential of the perfume… bringing out complexity that would be impossible otherwise.' Each formula is evaluated to define the right maturation time. Since this step ties up working capital by requiring storage space, and results in inventory remaining unsold for months, it pushes up the cost of the perfume, as does Amouage's propensity to offer higher concentrations of fragrance concentrate than most houses, with some going up to 30 percent or more. 'From my experience creating for other luxury brands, this number is at least ten times higher than what is typically allowed,' Salmon said. Krigler's fragrances, too, start at 25 percent concentration, and can go up to 45 percent. Maturation time is a minimum of 18 months. Back to Basics These might seem like insurmountable costs to bootstrapped brands, which niche perfumeries often are. While Amouage is backed by L'Oréal, both Krigler and Marc Antoine Barrois remain family-owned. ADVERTISEMENT Barrois started in 2016 with a few thousand euros and invested everything he earned into the business. Early on, he rented out his apartment on Airbnb and funneled that into the company, too. But his first scent, B683, was so well-received that inventory he thought would last ten years sold in less than two months. That hustle and high comes with indie territory. And like Barrois, if nothing else, brands can leverage niche perfumery's founding principle: focus on product above all else. Veronique Gabai, founder and CEO of her eponymous brand, and former global president of the fragrance division of the Estée Lauder Companies, explains that indie perfumery's very origin was in disruption. 'Niche perfumes were born out of a reaction to the overtly marketed product that the fragrance industry was 20 or 25 years ago,' she said, citing the example of Frederic Malle. 'The purpose… was to go back to the quality of the juice, time spent on craftsmanship, and collaboration with perfumers.' Gabai welcomes brands renewed focus on what's always been at the heart of the niche perfumery ethos: The juice itself. Investment in the fragrance product is not just investment, but 'the very core of the strategy,' Gabai said. 'Niche isn't about marketing, imagery, or a big name and face. It's about creating a product that enchants, surprises and evokes important emotional reactions from people.' Sign up toThe Business of Beauty newsletter, your complimentary, must-read source for the day's most important beauty and wellness news and analysis.
Muscat Daily
2 days ago
- Business
- Muscat Daily
AMOUAGE UNVEILS ITS FIRST BOUTIQUE IN GUANGZHOU
Amouage, the independent Omani High Perfumery House, has opened its first boutique in South China, located within Tianhe Parc Central in Guangzhou. This launch marks a defining moment in Amouage's strategic global expansion, extending the House's craftsmanship and artistry to one of China's most vibrant cities. Conceptualised by Amouage's Chief Creative Officer, Renaud Salmon, together with architectural collaborators Héroïne, the new space brings the House's story to life, offering a sensory experience that transcends boundaries. Where Legacy Meets New Beginnings Amouage's journey in China has always been grounded in cultural understanding and long-term perspective, a market the House has approached with care and conviction. While Amouage's presence has evolved in recent years, its story in China began over a decade ago, with creations such as Epic Woman, Memoir Man and Honour Woman resonating deeply with connoisseurs and securing top ranking presence on platforms like a leading fragrance review platform in China. This enduring connection has been further recognised through several prestigious accolades, including the Golden Osmanthus Award for Epic Woman for Best Female Perfume, Gold Award and the special attention mAPA Award for Guidance 46. An Architecture of Transience and Permanence Designed to embody the House's philosophy, the boutique invites visitors to engage with the timeless art of fragrance. Its façade opens to a serene interior, shaped by natural materials and the shifting play of light. Sculptural elements evoke the movement of desert dunes, with surfaces that catch the light, subtly mirroring the flow of sand. Travertine tables, in hues of desert sand, echo the rugged beauty of Oman's landscapes, while the silhouettes of the Amouage bottle, carved from sandstone, recall the majestic architecture of the country. This blend of texture and form invites reflection, where sand becomes a symbol of both impermanence and preservation, framing Amouage's perfumes as representations of depth, heritage, and beauty. At the heart of the boutique, the Gift of Kings shines through, its central placement further symbolising the House's opulence. The opening of the new boutique in Guangzhou continues Amouage's thoughtful expansion in China, following the success of 'The Sillage' flagship store located in the heart of Zhang Yuan, Shanghai. Together, the new spaces have been designed to encapsulate the essence of the House, inviting clients to step beyond the ordinary, where tradition and innovation come together to create something truly exceptional.
Observer
6 days ago
- Business
- Observer
Oman Air, Amouage take Rock Rose to the skies
Muscat - Oman Air has partnered with collaborator Amouage to introduce an exclusive sweet creation for Business Class guests. The national airline and iconic fragrance house have unveiled a bespoke dessert featuring the treasured Omani Rock Rose, grown on the slopes of Al Jabal Al Akhdar (the 'Green Mountain'). Guests will receive one composition intertwining raspberry, pear, and saffron on inbound flights. From May 2025, the signature rose-inspired dessert can be experienced on all Oman Air Business Class long and medium-haul inbound routes. Available for a limited time only, this exquisite floral dish, created by Michelin-starred Chef Peter Gast and inspired by Amouage's Guidance Eau de Parfum, brings a new dimension of storytelling and sensory delight to the airline's award-winning Business Class menu, offering guests a refined taste of Oman at 30,000 feet. The carefully crafted, seven-petal creation is a refined balance of delicate textures and layered depth, revealing unexpected contrasts with every bite. Beneath its soft pink exterior and crisp chocolate shell, its petals part to unveil a velvety cream and a delicate crunch that lingers on the palate. During flight, where perception shifts, this delicacy is designed to hold its integrity, allowing each nuance to unfold effortlessly, just as intended.
Times of Oman
7 days ago
- Business
- Times of Oman
Oman Air and Amouage take the Omani Rock Rose to the skies
Muscat: Continuing to redefine in-flight dining, Oman Air has partnered with long-term collaborator Amouage to introduce an exclusive sweet creation for Business Class guests. In a shared celebration of artistry and tradition, the national airline and iconic fragrance house have unveiled a bespoke dessert featuring the treasured Omani Rock Rose, grown on the slopes of Al Jabal Al Akhdar (the 'Green Mountain'). Available for a limited time only, this exquisite floral dish, created by Michelin-starred Chef Peter Gast and inspired by Amouage's Guidance Eau de Parfum, brings a new dimension of storytelling and sensory delight to the airline's award-winning Business Class menu, offering guests a refined taste of Oman at 30,000 feet. Layers of Texture and Depth The carefully crafted, seven-petal creation is a refined balance of delicate textures and layered depth, revealing unexpected contrasts with every bite. Beneath its soft pink exterior and crisp chocolate shell, its petals part to unveil a velvety cream and a delicate crunch that lingers on the palate. Flavour is never static and evolves with its surroundings. During flight, where perception shifts, this delicacy is designed to hold its integrity, allowing each nuance to unfold effortlessly, just as intended. Guests will receive one composition intertwining raspberry, pear, and saffron on inbound flights.
Observer
22-05-2025
- Observer
In the Mountains of Oman, a Flower's History Comes Alive
Imagine standing in the mountains of Oman, surrounded by a patchwork of bright pink and white damask roses, their scent filling the air. It's the middle of the rose harvest season in Jabal Akdhar, and amid all the natural beauty, Dr Valentina Bruccoleri is talking about something even more fascinating — the story of roses and what they've meant to people all over the world, across centuries. Valentina's presence in Oman extends beyond the scenic landscape. As an accomplished art historian and curator specialising in Islamic and Chinese art, she brings a wealth of expertise to her role. Additionally, she has a profound interest in the history of fragrances. In her position as the new curator of the Wadi Dawkah Manufacture & Visitor Centre, working closely with the esteemed high-perfumery house Amouage, she will regularly visit Oman. Her aim is to develop programmes that enhance the guest experience and elevate the centre's cultural and artistic offerings. After a busy morning exploring the terrace gardens of Jabal Akdhar, outside the modern distillery of one of Oman's rose farmers, Valentina began sharing stories about roses, weaving in her knowledge of art, history, and perfumes from her time working at the Louvre, the Forbidden City, and beyond. It was an unusual setting for a talk about a flower, but that's precisely what made it so special. As the afternoon sun hits the mountains, Valentina begins her journey — not with flowers alone, but with stories from centuries past. She pulls out copies of small, delicate manuscript from her bag explaining that it was from a 12th-century Arab book, written in beautiful calligraphy. The pages show illustrations and recipes, like a medieval 'kitchen' of ingredients that included frankincense, white pepper, and roses. This wasn't just about perfume — it was medicine, magic, and art rolled into one. People believed that rosewater and roses had healing powers, and these recipes traveled from the Islamic world into Europe. She explains how roses weren't just pretty flowers—they played a role in everyday life, medicine, and spirituality. Moving from medieval manuscripts, her story jumps forward in time, to the Ottoman Empire. Valentina describes Sultan Mehmed II, the ruler who took Constantinople in 1453, as a leader who wanted to be remembered smelling a rose. She points out a picture of him with a rose in his hand, a symbol of power and sophistication. Apparently, even the marble of Hagia Sophia was sprinkled with rosewater during its transformation into a mosque, blending faith, royalty, and scent into a kind of divine ritual. The love for roses in the Ottoman court was huge. Court gardens grew roses in such quantities that, at one point, an estimated 4,000 kilograms of rosewater were sent to the Sultan's palace in a single year. That's enough to make a lot of perfumes, but also shows just how much the flower symbolised beauty, divinity, and royalty. Travelers from the period talk about how the scent of roses was everywhere, almost like a royal perfume that everyone was built around. Valentina then takes us to Persia, where textiles decorated with rose motifs show a culture that loved the flower not just for its beauty, but as a symbol of love and spirituality. She describes an incredible textile in the Cleveland Museum that has dozens of roses woven into its design — a piece of art that shows the deep connection between the flower and Persian culture. For people in Persia, roses weren't just ornamental; they represented the divine. She moves on to India, where Mughal rulers loved roses too. She shows us a tiny dagger decorated with gold and turquoise, with a painted rose on it — a sign of wealth and power made even more meaningful by the flower's long history in the region. In India, roses became part of grand ceremonies and celebrations, a symbol of beauty that merged earthly riches with spiritual meaning. But it's not just about the physical objects. Valentina shares how poetry and stories bring roses even alive. She reads a verse from a famous Persian poet, Baki, who described roses and nightingales as symbols of divine love. In these poems, the rose isn't just a flower — it's the beloved, the divine, the spiritual soul longing for connection. She also shows wonderful pictures of antique mirror cases from Persia carved with roses and flowers, made by artisans who understood what the flower meant — a symbol of beauty, prestige, and spiritual longing. Even today, these objects remind us that roses have always been more than just pretty flowers. As she wraps up, Valentina points out how the story of roses isn't stuck in the past. It's a living part of our history, inspiring art, fashion, and fragrances even today. From the royal courts of the Ottoman Empire to modern perfume houses, the symbol and smell of roses continue to tell stories about love, power, and beauty. Standing here in Oman, surrounded by roses and history, Valentina's words remind us that flowers like the rose are more than just nature's beauty — they're woven into the stories we tell about ourselves, about art, and about the world. Her journey was not just about a flower — it was about the human desire to find meaning, spirituality, and connection in something as simple and beautiful as a bloom. Photos from Dr Bruccoleri's Instagram account: @valentinaforart
