Latest news with #AmyKim


CNET
15-05-2025
- Business
- CNET
Drowning in Subscriptions? I Saved $400 in 15 Minutes With Rocket Money. Here's How You Can, Too
I used Rocket Money to identify subscriptions I was wasting my money on and had it cancel them for me. Getty Images/Rocket Money/Amy Kim/CNET Between tariff worries and economic uncertainty, you might be looking for ways to scale back your spending. If you're a victim of subscription creep like I was, you might be able to save hundreds by getting rid of unwanted subscriptions. In the latest CNET survey, we found that 61% of US adults are reconsidering their paid subscriptions due to the state of the economy. With the average American spending over $1,000 a year (which includes more than $200 on unused apps), it's likely that you can find significant savings by just paring down your subscriptions. I've tested many budgeting apps, and Rocket Money stood out to me for many reasons, but its ability to identify and cancel unwanted subscriptions for you was the most interesting to me. I tested it last year to see how much I could save, and fifteen minutes later, I was able to add an extra cushion into my budget. Here's how it works. Rocket Money Not only can it help you rein in your spending, but Rocket Money can also help you find and cancel unwanted subscriptions. Details CNET editors choice winner for best budgeting app See at Rocket Money Rocket Money saved me more than $400 in 15 minutes Rocket Money is a budgeting app that monitors your income and expenses, helps you set savings goals and tracks your subscriptions in one place, whether you use the free or paid version. It's also my pick for the best Mint replacement app and recently won CNET's Editors' Choice award. Rocket Money's paid version, which costs $6 to $12 a month, can also find and cancel some subscriptions for you. You can try this service by navigating to the Recurring tab on the app menu. You'll see subscriptions coming due in the next seven days, ones coming due later and how much you spend on these subscriptions in a year. The first thing I noticed was that my subscription to HGTV Magazine, which costs $50 for a year, was up for renewal in four days. Given the enormous pile of back issues I've accumulated but not yet read, canceling this subscription was a no-brainer. Rocket Money gave me two options: The app could cancel this subscription for me or I could call the number they provided to cancel it myself. I chose to have them do it for me. The app asked for some basic information, including my name, billing address and the reason I wanted to cancel, then confirmed that it was working on it. The process was fairly painless but I have one complaint. I didn't know until after I'd submitted my cancellation request that it could take two to seven days for Rocket Money to complete the cancellation -- I found out from the pop-up confirmation I received after submitting. Fortunately, I was able to respond quickly to the email confirmation Rocket sent me and I received a response within minutes from a customer support rep who said they'd fast-track my cancellation. The next business day, my subscription was canceled. I was hooked. What else was I spending money on without realizing it? I reviewed my other subscriptions and identified a handful I no longer needed: HP Instant Ink: $4.34 per month (for a printer I don't even have anymore) $4.34 per month (for a printer I don't even have anymore) New York Times Digital: $4 per month (the number of free articles I get is usually enough for me) $4 per month (the number of free articles I get is usually enough for me) Wall Street Journal: $4 per month (same as above) $4 per month (same as above) Pandora: $10 per month (a recent switch to Amazon Prime Unlimited made this service unnecessary) $10 per month (a recent switch to Amazon Prime Unlimited made this service unnecessary) Spotify: $10 per month (same as above) I'll admit I barely noticed these small amounts when they hit my bank account each month. I'd grouped them under "Miscellaneous" in my budget and never really thought about them because that category tended to stay within my spending goals. But viewing them all grouped together, it was easy to see how quickly they could drain my budget. By canceling these subscriptions, I saved myself $32.32 per month going forward, for a total annual savings of $387.84. Add that to the savings on my HGTV Magazine subscription and that's an extra $437.81 in my pocket annually. What's nice is that, even though I only installed the app a few months ago, Rocket Money pulled in subscriptions from years past, allowing me to catch ones that were coming due even though I hadn't paid for them since installing the app. In total, reviewing my subscriptions and having Rocket Money cancel six of them took me about 15 minutes. Not bad to get more than $400 in savings. Rocket Money's free version can still help you Rocket Money's free version only shows subscriptions -- it won't cancel them for you. To access the cancellation service, you'll need the paid version, which costs $6 to $12 per month. You choose your amount and you'll enjoy the same features regardless of the amount. Because I already have Rocket Premium, this wasn't an issue for me. But if you don't want to pay extra for the convenience of having Rocket cancel your subscriptions for you, you could just as easily use the free version to identify your subscriptions and then cancel them yourself. You can also try using Rocket's bill negotiation service, which can help lower your monthly costs, but you'll pay 30% to 60% of your first year's savings if it's able to save you money. How to save on subscriptions without Rocket Money I used Rocket Money to trim my subscription costs because it's the budgeting app I regularly use anyway. I'd rather save a few minutes, especially if it doesn't cost me anything extra. But of course you can cancel your subscriptions yourself by calling a customer service line or logging into your online account. These tips can also help you maximize your savings: Note your renewal dates. Whenever you sign up for a new service, note when it's due to renew. Then, set a reminder on your calendar for the week before so you can decide if it's worth renewing and cancel if not. If you sign up for a free trial, use a virtual card to make canceling a breeze. Review your budget regularly. Going over your budget weekly can help you spot subscription charges that have already hit your account and cancel them before they cost you more. But don't just take a cursory glance -- look at each transaction, even the minor ones. I was keeping a general eye on my spending but I wasn't always doing it line by line to evaluate if each expense was truly worth it. Rotate your streaming services. You can only watch so much content in a month. One of the easiest ways I've found to keep my subscription costs down is to only subscribe to one streaming service at a time. For example, when one of the shows I love dropped its new season on HBO's Max, I canceled my Netflix subscription and signed up for a month of Max. I watched everything that interested me on Max before the month was up, then I canceled it and moved on to another service. Take advantage of complimentary subscriptions. Some subscriptions give you free access to other services. For instance, Walmart Plus members get a free Paramount Plus subscription. Amazon Prime membership comes with perks like a free Amazon Music subscription and a free year of Grubhub Plus. Take a look at your existing subscriptions to see if they offer any free perks you can take advantage of. Visit your local library. Many library systems offer free access to newspapers, magazines and movies and TV series on DVD. Check out your local library to see what you can enjoy free.


CNET
11-05-2025
- CNET
My 6 Moving Hacks for Your Mattress
Whether you're moving to a big city or a small, quiet town, moving day can bring a myriad of emotions. If you're anything like me, there are a couple of things that take precedence the day of my move. Food, Wi-Fi and where I will rest my head are my main priorities, especially after a long day of transporting all of my belongings. The perfect plan for moving your mattress all boils down to these two things: How old it is, and what condition it's in. These are vital questions to have answers for before proceeding with crafting a plan, because you must know what you're working with. On average, mattresses last about seven to 10 years, depending on how well you maintain them. If your mattress is fairly new or in decent condition, you'll want to know the six steps below to prevent wasted time and damage during your transition. But if not, there's one more question to consider: Is it best to get a new mattress or keep your old one? Read more: I Asked AI to Find My Next Bed. Here's How It Compares to My Own Opinion of the Best Mattress My 6-step mattress moving checklist Getty Images/Amy Kim/CNET Make a mattress plan for a smooth move The type of mattress you have will dictate what kind of heavy lifting needs to be done. If you have a queen -- or king-sized mattress, you might need someone to help you move from your old place to your new one. It's best not to bend your mattress to avoid ruining its springs and/or firmness. Now things can get tricky when determining how to transport a bed frame and mattress. With bed frames, you have to consider if it's worth breaking down and then putting it back together or if the frame can be moved whole. Then, if you decide to move it together, will it even fit through the door frames from one location to the next? If you have a platform frame, especially with those storage spaces, it might be a good idea to break it down, but if you have one of those portal frames you may get away with just folding it in half to relocate it. Finally, you need to decide whether you will have transportation that's big enough to accommodate your needs. Hashing these details out ahead of time can save you from headaches and wasted time. However, another option is to have professionals take care of your mattress and allow them to work out the nitty-gritty details of your move. Read more: Trusted Moving Companies: How to Find Movers You Can Rely On Get a mattress cover to avoid damage No, this step is not mandatory, but it's highly recommended. Buying a mattress cover can limit damage to your mattress during the move, such as tears and stains. While there are other clever hacks -- like taking sheets and wrapping them around your mattress -- covers for moving mattresses are fairly inexpensive. You can buy plastic covers at your local department store and trash them once you use them. You can also get reusable covers from Amazon to keep and store for your next move. While you are shopping for a cover, consider adding tie-down straps to the cart, too. These straps make a world of difference when securing your mattress inside a truck or van to keep it in place while driving. Video: CNET's Sleep Expert Guesses Mattresses Completely Blindfolded Strip your mattress of all bedding before moving Now that you have a solid moving plan in place with your mattress cover and supplies, these are the steps you should take for your mattress move. You'll want to remove your sheets, comforter, pillowcases and anything else on it. It's highly recommended that you wash your sheets and comforter before packing them. This keeps everything fresh and clean when you unpack in your new place. Read more: The Best Way to Machine-Wash Your Sheets, Comforter and Pillowcases Getty Images - Carlo A Give your mattress a clean After stripping off all the bedding, you want to make sure to clean the mattress thoroughly. Over time, your mattress will accumulate germs, and dust bunnies so vacuum it well and then wipe it down with warm water and a touch of dish soap. For a fresh aroma. Read more: How to Clean Your Mattress at Home Make sure there's a clear walkway for your mattress In the rush of moving, sometimes clearing a walkway is the last thing on your mind. To ensure safety for you and your helpers, make sure you have space to navigate your mattress through your old spot. Transporting your mattress on moving day Now it's execution time. All of the brainstorming and shopping have come to this moment. If need be, load your mattress into your transportation vehicle with the help of others. For mattresses with coils or springs, transport them positioned on their side, ideally between large furniture for extra stability. Most memory foam mattresses should be transported flat, though you should definitely check with your manufacturer for specific recommendations for moving. Read more: How Big a Moving Truck Do I Need? Get the Right Size Rental Truck Most moving experts do not recommend strapping a mattress to the top of a car. Along with the very real danger of the mattress falling or flying off, it's also much more prone to scratches, tears or damage to the coils or springs. Now you're at the final stretch. Upon arriving at your new spot and getting your mattress into your new place, be sure to wipe it down again and give it a quick clean. During the move, dirt and germs can accumulate. Once you have cleaned surfaces, now it's time to unpack and get settled into your new pad. But rest assured, you'll have a comfy fresh place to lay your head after all your moving activity is done.


CNET
05-05-2025
- General
- CNET
Starting a Compost Pile? Avoid These 10 Foods and Household Items
Not everything can be added to a compost pile. Composting requires a delicate balance of dry brown material and wet, nutrient-rich green. The latter usually consists of kitchen waste but adding the wrong leftover or discarded foods can ruin your carefully curated compost. If you want to compost meat and dairy -- both of which tend to attract pests -- I recommend a countertop food waste processor such as the Mill Bin or Lomi, which dry and grind food down to a dirt-like substance. These countertop contractions don't make compost but they'll make the composting process a whole lot less smelly and gross. You'll also want to learn what foods, plants and household products don't belong in a compost pile. Foods high in oil, sugar or artificial ingredients often don't do well in the bin. Meat and fish can technically be composted but adding them to the heap might be more trouble than its worth (more on that later). Below you'll find a list of foods and household items that shouldn't and should go in your compost pile. Read more: Are Countertop Composters Worth It? I Calculated My Food Waste for a Week to See Amy Kim, CNET/Getty Video What is composting? Composting is a way to help food trash and other organic items decompose into a substance that can be used to alter the composition of soil so that it's more nutritious for plants. To start the composting process, certain bacteria activators are added to the organic material to create heat. The heat causes the organic material to decompose more quickly than it would out in nature. Items that can't be composted Cooking oils Foods high in added fat and oil Cheese, milk and and other dairy items Sugar Candy and other foods containing excess sugar Large amounts of cooked food Highly processed canned and packaged foods Cat litter Dog waste Certain houseplants Most but not all food scraps can go into a compost pile. Johner Images/ Getty Images Items that can be composted Fruit and vegetable scraps Cores, peels and rinds Coffee grounds Grass clippings Leaves Beans and legumes Seeds and nuts Herbs and greens Egg shells Can you compost meat and fish? Countertop food processors such as the Vitamix FoodCycler make mincemeat of kitchen scraps and speed up the decomposition process. Vitamix Some gardeners add fish, meat, bones and dairy products to their compost. This is fine, unless you have a problem with rodents or raccoons. These foods create a strong smell that scavengers can't resist. If you want to compost meat and seafood without the risk of attracting critters, a countertop organic waste processor will grind and dry your scraps so they're akin to dirt and not something that would interest a wild animal. Items you should never put in a compost pile Bacon fat and other greasy items should not be composted. Talisman Outside composting There are two main ways of composting: outside and inside. First, let's take a look at outside composting. A layer of dry material, like leaves, is important to outdoor composting. Alina Bradford/CNET Some gardeners prefer to have a compost pile in their yard. This is exactly what it sounds like. It is a pile layered with grass clippings, food bits, sticks and dead leaves. The pile is started in a sunny area with a layer of twigs and sticks on the ground to help with airflow. Then, moist organic material (like food scraps or grass clippings) is layered with dry material, such as leaves, twigs and sawdust. That dry material is crucial because you don't want the compost to be too damp, which will cause foul odors and attract pests. This type of composting takes some work because the pile will need to be turned (basically mixed up) every week or two using a pitchfork or compost aerator. The benefit is that it's basically free. The only items you need to purchase are a turning tool and some compost activator. Composting is a beautiful thing. Getty Images An easier outdoor solution is a compost tumbler, like the Yimby ($79) or this Miracle-Gro large dual-chamber compost tumbler ($130). Both of these consist of rotating barrels that you throw your yard and food waste into and then spin five to six times every two to three days. The spinning mixes the compost to encourage quick and even decomposition. The same rules about wet and dry material apply; you need to keep the compost well-balanced so that it breaks down correctly. When choosing an outdoor system, also be sure to look for a unit that has many aeration holes to release gasses caused by the food decomposing. A closed container can explode if too much pressure from gasses builds up. Indoor composting High-tech composters, like Whirlpool's Zera, can turn food scraps into compost in a matter of hours. Chris Monroe/CNET Indoor composting is almost foolproof with high-tech compost bins, like the Zera or the Food Cycler Platinum. With this type of unit, you just drop in the food scraps and compost activator. The unit uses heat and pressure to turn the scraps into fertilizer, usually within three to 24 hours. Some units can produce about two pounds of fertilizer for eight pounds of food waste. OK, I have decomposed compost, now what? Once the food items are decomposed, it will look almost like woody dirt. You can sprinkle small amounts in house plants or till large amounts into a garden plot. You can also sprinkle it on your lawn or trees to make them healthier. When you've exhausted your finished compost, you can continue the process by adding food scraps and yard waste to your pile or compost bin. A well-cared-for compost pile can give you compost for years to come.