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With Igniv Bangkok, the Thai capital's fine dining scene gets a boost
With Igniv Bangkok, the Thai capital's fine dining scene gets a boost

Japan Times

time2 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Japan Times

With Igniv Bangkok, the Thai capital's fine dining scene gets a boost

I'm lounging on a curved green couch in Igniv Bangkok when the first crystalline platters appear, bearing the 'snacks' to open our meal. My first morsel, I'm instructed, should be the bite-size kadaifi (filo pastry) roll offering a satisfying crispiness that gives way to a delicate morsel of Phuket lobster enhanced with citrus. Next, like an Easter gift, an eggshell filled with a creamy mix of Bergkase (Swiss mountain cheese) and Gruyere with enoki mushroom. A series of starters pairs Thai-grown asparagus with daikon and tarragon, and langoustine tofu with a light sweet corn broth. Main courses see rose-pink chunks of lamb from Italy arrive alongside a lemon-accented pea croquette in a vibrant pea sauce and a dish of soft eggplant bathing in a rich mole with Trang pepper from southern Thailand. A Dutch rhubarb matching the richness of truffes schnitte, a kind of chocolate tart made with Thai chocolate, is one of the sweet treats rounding off my dinner. This eclectic culinary experience is offered by Igniv Bangkok's new spring menu. The restaurant, which now boasts its fourth year of holding a Michelin star, is the first Asian outpost of the acclaimed original, which opened in 2015 in Switzerland's Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. The man behind the brand is Swiss celebrity chef Andreas Caminada, who is known for his pioneering approach to creative contemporary Swiss cuisine and promoting the idea of a 'fine dining sharing experience' in a casual environment where guests are welcome to swap stilettos for sneakers to tuck into top-tier cuisine. For Igniv Bangkok's interior, Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola used a combination of wood and handcrafted fabrics to communicate a homey warmth, a mood that matches the casual fine dining concept of the restaurant. | IGNIV BANGKOK Igniv, which means 'nest' in Caminada's native Romansh language, focuses not only on the communal nature of dining — all dishes arrive as sharing platters and guests choose from bowls and trays of sweet treats at the 'candy store' to take home in a box — but also the underlying approach of collecting different ingredients from the restaurant's surroundings. The Bangkok establishment embraces this concept but with a twist by virtue of its Asian location. Head chef Arne Riehn joined the restaurant when it opened in 2020 and was appointed the restaurant's lead culinary creative in September 2024. 'You can imagine what kind of dream job it is when someone gives you the trust to run a restaurant in his name and you can basically cook what you would like to eat if you were to (dine here),' says Riehn. Welcoming diversity Riehn has taken on the challenge of encompassing the seasonality of Swiss cuisine while finding a way to put local Thai ingredients in the spotlight. Yet this concept has met with some difficulties, namely the sourcing of reliably high-quality, organic domestic ingredients. 'In Thailand, fine dining is quite young, so these farmers are still developing their systems,' Riehn says, adding that Green Garden, a Chiang Mai-based farm, is now one of his regular suppliers as the quality of its veggies has proven to be consistent. Igniv Bangkok's head chef Arne Riehn has the challenge of executing Swiss cuisine with a Thai twist. | IGNIV BANGKOK Green Garden supplies Igniv with a wide range of herbs and greens, including rarer produce like pea shoots and beetroot. Asparagus, a quintessential European ingredient, comes from a supplier in Nong Bua Lamphu Province in northeastern Thailand, which grows the vegetable year round in greenhouses. Although Riehn praises Thai wagyu and trout, much of the protein comes from overseas, with fish like hamachi (young Japanese amberjack) and kanpachi (yellowtail) imported from Japan. Igniv adds to a growing number of restaurants in Bangkok fueling demand for quality Japanese produce. Den Kushi Flori, a collaboration between Tokyo's modern, creative kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) Den and French fine-dining Florilege, opened its first overseas outpost in Bangkok in July 2023, while American restaurant empire Nobu expanded into the market in September 2024. Meanwhile, on the more casual end of the scale, famed Indian chef Gaggan Anand , who also runs his eponymous restaurant in the Thai capital, has teamed up with Thai-Indian chef and restaurateur Chalee Kader to launch E-San in April 2025. Dubbed 'a fantasy of Thai north-eastern cuisine meets Japanese izakaya (Japanese pub),' E-San serves up wildly creative Isaan-Japanese fusion dishes, such as chicken wing stuffed with shiokara (fermented squid entrails), ginger and cabbage and coated in takoyaki (fried octopus dumplings) sauce and nori; and ochazuke (rice steeped in tea) made with rice steamed with yanang leaf (a plant native to Southeast Asia), grilled sheathfish in a nutty genmaicha (brown rice green tea) broth and charred leek oil. All this comes as Bangkok grows its reputation as a gourmet haven. It even rivalled Tokyo in the March edition of the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards, with both cities tying for first place with nine locations each. Sorn became the first Thai restaurant to receive two Michelin stars in 2025, a year that Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, described as 'a significant and historic year for Thailand on the international gastronomic map.' There's also a wealth of international dining options, from Michelin-starred French establishments, such as Blue by Alain Ducasse and chef Arnaud Dunand's Maison Dunand, to the highly-acclaimed modern German restaurant Suhring. The "pizokel," a Swiss dumpling-like buckwheat pasta, is topped with caviar for a rich, briny finish. | PHOEBE AMOROSO Igniv nestles well in this diverse international milieu. Riehn has flown into his role as culinary magpie, collecting inspiration and ingredients to bring to life Swiss seasonality with a Thai twist and the occasional nod to Japan. One of his favorite dishes is a refreshing starter of raw Hokkaido scallop with beautiful curved slices of carrots, finished with a splash of coconut milk. This is followed by a heartier dish that appeals to both comfort and luxury: Pizokel, a Swiss dumpling-like buckwheat pasta, is drenched in brown butter and topped decadently with bonito foam and caviar. Yet it's the dessert course where Thai influences truly take center stage and Riehn's background as a professionally trained confectioner shines through . An elegantly domed cascara (dried coffee cherry skin) souffle offers a gentle fruitiness with a well-balanced salty-sweet interplay, while a coconut flower juice is transformed into a sorbet. These courses are accompanied by an exceptional pairing of three Swiss wines. Opening the meal is a buttery and full-bodied chardonnay from Gantenbein Winery, while a strawberry-scented pinot noir from Weingut Fromm is the perfect accompaniment to a course of langoustine prepared three ways. This is followed by a bolder, earthier pinot noir from Flascher Spondis that is more than a match for the punchy mains that include wild garlic, Trang pepper and mole. With its creative culinary approach, Igniv is demonstrative of the bold culinary minds that are transforming Bangkok into a vibrant, diverse dining scene.

Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino reopens on April 10
Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino reopens on April 10

Trade Arabia

time05-03-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Trade Arabia

Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino reopens on April 10

Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino is set to open its new season from 10 April, offering world-class culinary and wine experiences, transformative wellness retreats, and timeless hospitality. The resort will be set against the breathtaking backdrop of Messenia, with traditional Easter celebrations opening, followed by the return of "Stirring Stars" events and "Masters in Motion" retreats. EASTER WITH MANDARIN ORIENTAL, COSTA NAVARINO'S UNIQUE SIGNATURE With a curated programme of activities for all ages, authentic flavours and a vibrant festive atmosphere, Easter at Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino promises an unforgettable celebration immersed in Greek tradition. Throughout Holy Week, guests can take part in family-friendly activities inspired by Easter customs. From crafting Easter candles and painting eggs to arts and crafts workshops and egg hunts for all ages, the resort brings age-old traditions to life. On Good Friday, 18 April, Navarino Agora will host the solemn decoration and reverent procession of the Epitaph. Celebrations continue on the evening of Holy Saturday, 19 April, with a grand resurrection service at the chapel, followed by a traditional feast at Oliviera Restaurant. The menu, curated by Executive Chef Bertrand Valegeas, features both classic and innovative interpretations of mageiritsa (a traditional Easter soup), alongside a refined selection of Lenten dishes available throughout Holy Week. Easter Sunday marks the pinnacle of celebrations at Ormos Beach Club, where guests can indulge in a lavish spread of traditional delicacies, complemented by live music. In true Greek spirit, a joyous atmosphere of song and dance will bring everyone together in an unforgettable celebration. Meanwhile, younger guests can enjoy a world of fun at the Kids Club, Coral & Friends, with special festive activities. The celebrations continue into Easter Monday, offering guests more opportunities to create cherished memories with loved ones in a spectacular setting. THE RETURN OF STIRRING STARS Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino's exclusive Stirring Stars gastronomic and wine events also return and promise to be more spectacular than ever. Throughout the season, some of the world's most acclaimed culinary pioneers will grace the resort, hosting a series of exceptional dinners in the intimate setting of The Private Kitchen. This year's line-up features internationally renowned chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants including Andreas Caminada, Maxime Gilbert, Julien Royer, and Pascal Barbot, who will craft extraordinary gastronomic experiences. Prestigious wineries including Château Canon, Château Rauzan-Ségla, and Opus One Winery will also guide guests through exclusive wine tastings which showcase the art of fine wine. MASTERS IN MOTION: HOLISTIC WELLNESS JOURNEYS This summer, well-being also takes centre stage as the resort hosts an inspiring series of retreats led by world-renowned wellness experts. Carefully curated to offer holistic mind and body experiences, these transformative events take place amidst Messenia's serene natural beauty. Distinguished guests include the award-winning wellness designer Jimmy Jarnet, certified yoga and meditation instructor Laura Dodd and sound healer Emily Harriet, each bringing their unique expertise to enrich the guest experience. ENHANCED ACCOMMODATION EXPERIENCES

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