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The Hindu
21-05-2025
- General
- The Hindu
Chennai's best vada pav spots: A trail
When I moved to Chennai from Maharashtra, I did not expect my connection to home come wrapped in a piece of newspaper, handed over a street counter. But sometimes, it is not the grand things that make you feel rooted. It is instead a hot, spicy snack that tastes like nostalgia. A product of the 1960s, the vada pav was conceptualised outside Dadar station. A popular theory suggests that batata vada or potato vada, a Maharashtrian staple, was wedged between pieces of soft pav by a street vendor named Ashok Vaidya. Chutneys were added as binding elements. This humble, affordable dish became the go-to snack for Mumbai's mill workers. Eventually, it transitioned from a blue-collar bite to an icon that crossed the boundaries of class, region, and generations. It did not take long for this snack to travel across State borders and reach Chennai. As Maharashtrians and Rajasthanis shifted to Chennai for work, education, or business, they brought with them their culinary habits. Slowly, pockets of the city, particularly areas like Sowcarpet, began to see stalls pop up serving vada pav to a growing North Indian community and curious locals. Adaptations like sweeter pavs, fusion fillings, and wider menus, did take place, but mostly, sellers stuck to the authentic original recipe. The anatomy of a good vada pav is constructed on four non-negotiables: pillowy pav served with a crunchy, hot vada made of gram flour and spicy mashed potato, and a perfectly fried and salted thin chilli. To seal the deal, zingy chutneys made of garlic and coriander are added. As summer rains begin in Chennai, we go on a trail to find the perfect vada pav in Chennai. All that is left is a cup of tea. Stop 1: Shree Vada Pav, Sowcarpet Tucked in the buzzing lanes of Sowcarpet, Shree Vada Pav has stood its ground for 18 years. Hemant Vyas, a third-generation entrepreneur from Rajasthan, currently runs the show. His grandfather once sold vada pav on the streets of Mumbai. Seeking better opportunities, the family moved to Chennai. Eventually, Shree Vada Pav was born. Hemant, who now manages everything hands-on, is a man of many languages, fluent in Hindi, English, Tamil, Marwadi, and Gujarati. This might explain why the stall attracts such a large crowd. Locals flock here, not just for the food but also for authenticity. The pav here leans a little on the sweet side, but the vada makes up for it, bursting with flavour and layered spices. The fried green chillies are not spicy, but bring their own drama to the plate. Hemant says, 'Cheese vada pav,' when asked what flies off the shelf at this stall. 'Everyone wants add-ons now… everyone wants an upgrade.' Shree Vada Pav is at 27, Ramanan Road, Sowcarpet. A vada pav is priced at ₹25. Contact: 9380648311. Jay Vada Pav, Sowcarpet Jay Vada Pav may just be a year old, but it is already giving the veterans a run for their money. Nestled in the heart of Sowcarpet, this compact stall has a cheeky banner out front that read: 'Badi badi baatein vada pav khate'. It is a clever riff on a popular Bollywood line, and honestly, it is impossible not to smile while reading it. What immediately stands out here is the slightly larger pav, making it look more generous than most versions around. The vada here is a crunchier, with a bold spice mix that does not overpower but leaves a lasting zing. The pav follows the Chennai signature of being a tad bitsweet, which surprisingly pairs well with the earthy flavours of the vada. The chillies served on the side are milder than the Mumbai ones but still bring forth a kick. At ₹30 a piece, it may seem a bit steep for traditionalists, but when a dish travels over 1,000 kilometres and still delivers, it seems worth it. Yashaswini Chauhan, a Delhi-based food-enthusiast ie who has been in Chennai for a while, says, 'It was my first Chennai-style vada pav and I am blown away! Did not expect to find this Mumbai Street classic down South, but they have given it their own spin.' Jay Vada Pav is at 434/164, Mint Street, Sowcarpet, Park Town, Chennai. A vada pav here is priced at ₹30. Contact: 9962119280. Stop 3: Mumbai Chatwala, Kilpauk From the moment you step into Mumbai Chatwala, there is a certain chaos in the air — the aroma of frying snacks, clatter of plates, buzz of conversation, and a cook-owner who is practically a blur, running between counters, taking orders, and making sure every plate hits the mark. It is chaotic in the best way possible. Mumbai Chatwala began 10 years ago when Anandaraman B, a localite, decided that it was his calling to feed people. 'I haven't stopped since,' he says, speaking in bits as he slits chillies and sets out plates. Generously stuffed with crunchy sev, spicy onions, and a pav so soft that is drenched in butter, this version has a spice-filled vada in the centre that ties it all together. A spicy green chilli is served on the side (finally!), not just for the drama, but because it genuinely elevates the experience. What sets Mumbai Chatwala apart is the range of offering — bhel puri, sev puri, dabeli, grilled sandwiches and pizzas along with ambience. Bright, colourful interiors and a surprisingly spacious seating area, makes this place, a good spot to hangout. Unlike most chaat corners which are either too cramped or take-away places, this one invites you to sit, snack, and chat. Mumbaii Chatwala is at Lumbini Square, 384/130, Purasaiwalkam High Road. A vada pav here is priced at ₹40. Contact: 9003228763. Stop 4: King's Vada Pav, Purasaiwalkam If you are on the hunt for the closest thing to Mumbai's original vada pav, your trail should end at King's Vada Pav in Purasaiwalkam. The masalas here, are not overused. Instead, the vada retains the original flavour. Chunky potato mash, strong taste of curry leaves, a garlic kick, and just enough crisp on the outside. Add to that a slender, fiery green chilli. Behind the counter is Govind Kumar, a man with deep-rooted connections to the food he serves. Originally from Bihar, Govind moved to Chennai as an employee at King's 10 years ago. But with grit, patience, and a passion for flavour, he eventually bought the place himself. Over time, he fine-tuned the recipe, focussed on freshness, and created what is now one of the most beloved vada pav joints in the city. The vadas are fried in small batches, ensuring every customer gets a piping hot snack instead of something pulled out of a reheated pile. Over the years, King's has also expanded its menu, now offering samosas, kachoris, and even drinks to wash it all down. When asked how he manages to keep that Mumbai magic alive in Chennai, he simply says, 'Just make it fresh, make it authentic, that's what works.' King's Vada Pav is at 59, Alagappa Road, Purasaiwalkam. A vada pav here is priced at ₹25. Contact: 9940042134.
Indian Express
21-04-2025
- Politics
- Indian Express
Tracing the roots of vada pav, ‘a snack that represents Mumbai's spirit'
In the bustling, ever-awake city of Mumbai, where the rhythms of life match the constant hum of trains, an unassuming snack has earned a place in the hearts of millions. Vada pav—often hailed as the 'Indian burger' cemented its global fame yet again by securing the 39th position on the World's 50 Best Sandwiches list, curated by food and travel guide Taste Atlas. View this post on Instagram A post shared by TasteAtlas (@tasteatlas) The origins of vada pav trace back to the 1960s, near Mumbai 's Dadar railway station, according to Tarveen Kaur, head chef and restaurant consultant. Amidst the chaos of arriving and departing trains, a street vendor named Ashok Vaidya sought to create an inexpensive, portable meal for the city's hardworking mill labourers. Drawing from local ingredients, he paired batata vada—a spiced, golden potato fritter—with pav, a fluffy bread roll introduced to India by the Portuguese. The result was a culinary revelation: an affordable snack that could be eaten on the go, packed with flavour and sustenance. As Chef Kaur observes, ' vada pav is the essence of Mumbai —a dish born of necessity but elevated by innovation. Its simple ingredients belie its complex cultural significance.' The Shiv Sena and the rise of a symbol In the 1970s, vada pav gained an unexpected champion in the Shiv Sena, a Marathi-Hindu nationalist political party. Recognising the snack's mass appeal, they began promoting it as the quintessential working-class food, deeply rooted in Marathi culture, according to chef and historian Sadaf Hussain. 'It became the working man's lunchbox, especially for the blue-collar crowd navigating the chaos of Bombay.' Here's where it gets really layered. Over time, the Shiv Sena started using it as a political identity marker, Hussain explains, 'sort of a way to draw a line between Maharashtrian pride and outsider influences.' He added: 'In fact, it was almost positioned against Udupi joints run by South Indians, even though both were part of the same cityscape.' Vada Pav epitomises Mumbai's melting-pot nature, where people from different walks of life converge in a densely populated area (Source: Freepik) Harris Soloman, a cultural anthropology professor from Duke University, also supported this in his paper on Mumbai's urban street food politics: 'A friend explained to me that in the 1960s, some Shiv Sena protest signs read 'I dli dosa bagao ' [Stop idli and dosa], referencing the two iconic snack foods of Tamil Nadu, as Senaiks attacked South Indian Udipi restaurants because the party founder, Bal Thackeray, accused South Indians of taking jobs that 'rightly' belonged to the Marathi manoos.' A global icon with local roots Despite its complex past, vada pav continues to thrive, transcending boundaries of class and geography. It secured the 39th spot on the World's 50 Best Sandwiches list this year, proof of universal appeal. Found everywhere from railway stations to fine dining restaurants, vada pav remains deeply tied to its roots. Vendors elevate the dish with accompaniments like coconut-garlic chutney, tamarind sauce, and fried chilies, while upscale versions experiment with cheese and fusion flavors. Yet, as Chef Kaur notes, 'Even with all the reinventions, the essence of vada pav remains the same—a snack that represents Mumbai's spirit: quick, bold, and unforgettable.' Whether viewed as a culinary triumph, a political symbol, or a nostalgic comfort food, vada pav embodies the city's unique ability to adapt, transform, and thrive. Love it or critique its legacy, it is more than just a snack—it is Mumbai in a bun.
